⟐ Answered января 31, 2026 at 11:23 GMT-7

⟐ Answered мая 11, 2025 at 15:08 GMT-7

Можно или нет оформить доставку, с вашего сайта, в Россию на прямую, минуя посредников?

⟐ Answered мая 31, 2023 at 8:57 GMT-7

That's the background. Since everything else on the phone appeared to be working, I thought it worthwhile to attempt a screen replacement and ordered the kit. I very slowly, meticulously, and carefully followed the instructions. Unfortunately, upon removing the old screen, I noticed a small amount of what appears to be very minor corrosion on the logic board next to the screen pins (see pics), so I gently cleaned it as best I could with alcohol and a Q-tip, then brushed it gently with a nylon brush, waited for it to dry completely, then installed the new screen. Sadly, even the new screen is still entirely black and even the touch doesn't work, even after re-seating a couple times.

Is there anything I've missed or should try before requesting an RMA? I'd love to get it working, but I can't think of anything else to try and finding a logic board, aside from being far more difficult to replace, is difficult to find and would change the entire device ID anyway. In other words, all my data is lost, and there is no longer a point in trying to recover it at that point. Fortunately, I was able to backup my data in the brief moments when the damaged screen was working prior to the repair.

⟐ Answer accepted августа 04, 2026 at 20:09 GMT-7

⟐ Answered августа 04, 2026 at 15:25 GMT-7

• If I put it on a wireless charger the wireless charger blinks enough for me to assume that the battery is attempting to negotiate with it
• If I use a known good 65w charger (UGREEN) and multiple high quality USB-C cables, I can get it to show a gray battery on screen with a lightning bolt in it, but after multiple hours it doesn't seem to produce a charge. The phone is slightly warm near the charging port. If I take it off the port it 'dies' (loses the little battery indicator) instantly
• If I try and put it into fastboot nothing happens, except that the battery indicator will sometimes go away, so maybe it's discharging faster than it's charging?
• If I hook it up to my Linux machine with dmesg running, it doesn't seem to be negotiating anything over USB :(

I like to think I'm generally pretty competent when it comes to working with electronic components. The only thing out of the ordinary with the battery swap was having to use 99% IPA to dissolve the battery adhesive, but I was conservative and it was completely dry before reassembly. I'm skeptical about the battery just being disconnected given the nature of the connector, but I'm open to cracking it back open if it comes to it. The bigger issue is that it leaves me phoneless for quite a while which is rough for 2FA.

Thanks

⟐ Answered августа 04, 2026 at 7:48 GMT-7

⟐ Answered августа 04, 2026 at 7:16 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted августа 03, 2026 at 18:13 GMT-7

⟐ Commented августа 02, 2026 at 12:05 GMT-7

⟐ Answered августа 01, 2026 at 10:51 GMT-7

I measured power draw using my KM003C and it draws 75mA for a few seconds, then stays at 500uA. Clearly not charging and not booting either, I'd assume this is just the power draw of the port controller.

I opened it back up to check if the battery had latched, but the VBAT pads on the board measure a healthy 3.6V. Is it still possible this new battery is faulty and communication with the battery prevents the phone from working?

USB connection to a computer does absolutely nothing, no enumeration, same power draw.

I tried disconnecting all sorts of peripherals, same exact behavior with display, cameras, buttons disconnected.

I can't help but conclude that I got a random motherboard failure.

I have decided to cut my losses here and sell the remaining pristine components as donor parts.

⟐ Edited by author июля 31, 2026 at 13:14 GMT-7

⟐ Answered июля 29, 2026 at 14:54 GMT-7

I also do not have service and my phone isn't showing any notifications, it only vibrates.

My system is up to date with android version 17.

⟐ Commented июля 28, 2026 at 17:27 GMT-7

⟐ Commented июля 28, 2026 at 8:32 GMT-7

The Pixel 7 Pro Display seems to have the exact same dimensions as the Pixel 6 Pro display and the specs only seem to differ for the maximum brightness.

The question is therefore if it is possible to just use the newer and slightly better version of what seems to be mostly the same display as a replacement for the broken one or if i am mistaken about the dimensions, a different connector is used or the difference in power usage makes the swap impossible.

The fingerprint sensor should also be taken into account. Again it seems to be the same one but i could be mistaken about that as well.

⟐ Commented июля 26, 2026 at 16:13 GMT-7

It was comfortable and I liked it very much for a while, but from one time on, I couldn't hold the outer screen at all. Even if it was closed, the inside was always on, and even if the notification came, the inside screen was glowing even though it was closed.

It does not fall or submerge, and if you try to forcefully start the sub-display using a fold switcher, the power will drop.

I tried to take a lot of logs with adb, but apparently the sub-display itself was not physically loaded. In addition, the part that normally reads the opening and closing and gives the angle is not displayed well. So I opened the inside once and tried to put it in again, but the symptoms have not changed....

In this case, will it be cured if I replace the sub-display with a flex cable? Or is it due to the disconnection of the internal flexible cable? For the time being, the battery on the sub-display side has been read, so I wonder if there is any disconnection of the flexible cable on the hinge.

If anyone is familiar with it, please help.

⟐ Commented июля 26, 2026 at 7:44 GMT-7

https://imgur.com/a/TBINwJ1

⟐ Commented июля 24, 2026 at 1:34 GMT-7