Google Translation

whether it is possible Russification iMac G4

please help , russify iMac G4 OS X 10.1.2 processor PowerPC G4

⟐ Answer accepted августа 16, 2016 at 4:23 GMT-7

Чтож… Мой мак выдает красный индикатор на CPU B, который не отвечает за температуру а нижний

. Я пробовал поменять местами процессоры А и Б, но индикатор так и остался на Б, я предполагаю что материнская плата завершила свой срок, но хотелось бы надеяться на лучшее. У кого-то есть решение данной проблемы?

⟐ Edited by author июля 16, 2023 at 16:39 GMT-7

. Помогите найти путь?

⟐ Answered июля 07, 2022 at 6:19 GMT-7

⟐ Answer deleted августа 16, 2020 at 21:20 GMT-7

На вскидку очень похож на вот эти коннекторы:

https://www.i-pex.com/Products/detail/21

Но хотелось бы более точного сопоставления, чем схожесть на фото.

⟐ Commented июня 24, 2019 at 23:48 GMT-7

⟐ Commented февраля 15, 2017 at 5:37 GMT-7

⟐ Commented октября 26, 2025 at 22:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answered октября 29, 2025 at 1:11 GMT-7

The mid 2017 21.5" model of the iMac is new and this issue isn't major, so it's not surprising that the few people who have sewn up their computers after an upgrade or fix either haven't encountered it yet, or found the true cause.

The problem is that after reassembly, the microphone input is faint and muffled. It functions, but barely, and is essentially unusable. The culprit turns out to be the adhesive strips used for reassembly. The frame of this iMac model seems identical to its 2012-2015 predecessors, so ostensibly the same strips made for these earlier models would work here too. However, the microphone has been moved from the top of the computer (near the webcam) to behind the frame at the bottom of the screen.

Note the location of the "4R" strip in the following picture:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Now look at the location of where the microphone has been moved to:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

One can clearly see that the "4R" strip completely covers the microphone and the holes in front of it, deadening any sound picked up.

Knowing this, the solution is simple. Make sure the microphone works properly before using any adhesive. Then, apply the adhesive strips, but when laying down the "4R" strip, cut away the portion covering the microphone (and a little bit more from each side to be safe).

Hopefully, this post will save others from hours of exasperation! :)

Cheers!

⟐ Answered ноября 25, 2025 at 21:56 GMT-7

My iPhone has connected perfectly until today, when it started doing the same thing as the iPad. All other USB devices work fine, and my iPad and iPhone both connect with the windows computers at work just fine. I've tested with both USB ports on my MacBook, and with several known working cords, both Apple branded and not.

I've done a lot of searching, and haven't found any definitive answers or solutions, but today I thought I would try something.

I use Windows 10 in VMWare on my laptop for work (and yes I made sure it wasn't running before trying to sync to make sure that wasn't causing the connectivity issues). But today I opened Windows on my MacBook, and when I plugged in my iPad I told it to open in Windows, and voila it connected to iTunes in windows fine and stayed connected.

This leads me to believe it is some sort of software issue on the MacBook side of things. I even tried closing itunes and just plugging my phone in to charge, and it again acted as though I was continuously plugging it in and unplugging it, but stayed connected in Windows.

Is there something I can do to correct this? I thought it might be an iTunes issue, but since it wouldn't even keep my phone connected enough to charge without iTunes open, I'm assuming it's an OSX issue.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

⟐ Commented октября 14, 2025 at 22:45 GMT-7

Other symptoms includes No audio devices found(cant play sound)

Is there any possible reasons for this? I highly doubt is a software problem.

hey guys an update on my issue, i never went for a fix, the problem went away after i left it to rest for a few days, i believe its an overheat issue. my screen has been working fine for the past few months since reporting this. Not sure it will come back, but this is definitely a faulty hardware, and Apple is not admitting it!

Affected model: 2016 Macbook Pro touch bar

I never went for a fix till now and using the same mac, the problem still comes and go, usually happen when overheating/heavy usage. I brought my macbook for de-dusting the fans and apply new heat paste for my processor in hope that it can reduce overheating issues, replacing the whole display costs too much.

Apple did an update for this issue for the FlexGate issue: 13-inch MacBook Pro Display Backlight Service Program. Sadly it doesn’t cover the T-CON issues.

⟐ Commented июля 01, 2025 at 7:48 GMT-7

⟐ Answered июля 09, 2025 at 5:09 GMT-7

After some brief surfing around this morning, I went to work with my MacBook running fine as usual. After coming home, my keyboard and trackpad are both unresponsive. What's a bit more unsettling is that, in the System Preferences, it's not even recognizing a trackpad as being connected.

After doing some searching around, I've found that some people ran into this issue with MacBook Pros, and it was because of a ribbon that had become loose underneath the battery. I'm wondering if it's possibly the same problem for me with my MacBook Air. I hadn't read about anyone with an Air experiencing the same problem.

Any help would be appreciated.I would love to get my Air working so I don't have to constantly use my external keyboard/mouse.

Thanks!

Edit: The only key that works on the keyboard is the power button.

⟐ Answered июля 07, 2025 at 6:09 GMT-7

⟐ Answered февраля 03, 2026 at 10:27 GMT-7

⟐ Commented декабря 28, 2021 at 8:19 GMT-7

Here's what's going on:

I have an A1226 15" MacBook Pro (mid 2007) with serial number: W872218YX92. I can't get it to turn on; whether it's plugged into the AC adapter or on a battery, I get no visible or audible response from the machine when I push the power button--none of the lights turn on, none of the fans spin, etc.

I've read about the nVIDIA 8600GT issue, but I don't get any response from the machine at all, so I'm not sure if that's what the problem is. The other thing I've read could be at fault is the 'Left I/O' board', but this thing won't turn on when using AC or a battery. One thing I haven't tried yet is to open it up and check the top cover power switch; is the power switch something that frequently breaks?

Lastly, when the MagSafe adapter is plugged into the machine, the LED on it always glows green--whether or not the battery is plugged in. When the battery is plugged in, the 'charging' LEDs on it do not light up or blink and thus the battery does not charge.

⟐ Answered июля 10, 2025 at 23:42 GMT-7