Собственно вопросы:

1) Сколько ячеек может потянуть стандартный контроллер?

2) Какое напряжение и силу тока на выходе имеет стандартная сборка ячеек?

3) Какое напряжение, силу тока и емкость потянет сток контроллер?

4) Может кто видел на просторах забугорного инета что-то подобное (именно на макбук), где можно посмотреть на уже кем-то пройденные грабли?

5) В идеале нужен даташит на батарейку/контроллер, но гуглинг пока не дал никаких результатов, может у кого есть?

⟐ Commented февраля 03, 2025 at 12:52 GMT-7

⟐ Answered ноября 20, 2024 at 4:55 GMT-7

У меня есть старый macbook pro MD101. Решил протестировать тоже самое на нем. OSX на обоих маках последний. Открыл Chrome и 20 вкладок. Полная загрузка процессора НО температура МАКСИМУМ 80 градусов.

Это какая-то специфика текущей линейки? Или же макбук попался не нормальный и нужно идти сдавать обратно в магазин?

Google Translation

CPU overheating under heavy load

Recently I acquired Macbook Pro MJLT2 and noticed that under heavy load it CPU temperature reaches 90-100 degrees. Test decided to Chrome and youtube. Open 20 tabs with videos from youtube. The result is a complete CPU. But what is more important is the CPU temperature rise to 90-100 degrees, the fan runs at maximum, MacBook comes to take off into space.

I have an old macbook pro MD101. I decided to test the same on it. OSX on both Macs last. Chrome and opened 20 tabs. Full CPU BUT maximum temperature of 80 degrees.

This kind of specificity of the current line? Or MacBook caught not normal and you need to go to take back to the store?

⟐ Answered марта 12, 2024 at 5:02 GMT-7

⟐ Answer deleted августа 16, 2020 at 21:20 GMT-7

Before replacing the old logic board, I erased the machine and attempted installing macOS on it to make sure my time machine backup worked correctly. But as I was reinstalling, the MDM for my company showed up. This brought up a some questions:

1. Is MDM tied to the logic board or will replacing it still lock me out?
2. Has MDM been enabled on my laptop the entire time I've used it and I just didn't know? I haven't heard from the company so do they just not care?
3. Will MDM be linked to my Time machine backup? If I restore from my time machine backup on the new logic board, will my old company be able to track it? Is a fresh install a better idea?
4. Is it possible to bypass MDM so I can reuse the old logic board?

I've tried booting off a flash drive to avoid connecting the the MDM servers in hopes of bypassing the need for an internet connection, but I get an error saying a critical update is needed in order for me to complete the install

I am also unable to restore my time machine backup for some reason. Any reason MDM would cause issues? I loaded the time machine backup but it keeps getting stuck at page with the Apple logo with the loading bar. All troubleshooting leads back to a fresh install which I can't get past because of MDM. Hopefully there is a workaround.

Would appreciate any insight/advice.

Thanks!

⟐ Commented августа 14, 2026 at 18:33 GMT-7

I’m looking for some advice on a 15-inch MacBook Pro 2017 (A1707).

The MacBook suddenly stopped working and now shows absolutely no signs of life. I stripped it down and removed the logic board for inspection. I found what appears to be a burnt component(photos attached).

The marking on the damaged component appears to be:

C21 36 N7 G

Can this component be replaced on its own, or is it more likely that something else has caused it to fail?

Is it worth sending to a repair specialist / can I do it myself or is it dead.

There has been no known liquid damage, and the rest of the board looks visually clean.

I’d really like to save the laptop if it’s economically repairable, and ideally preserve the data that’s stored on the soldered SSD.

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Commented августа 02, 2026 at 14:07 GMT-7

I have a black screen on a macbook pro retina late 2013.

I already tried all the software fix like resetting NVRAM and SMC.

i’m trying to find a way to be sure it’s a harware failure from the screen.

The computer works fine since it’s booting and i can link it to a tv to see the desktop, so it’s not the graphic card either.

The computer got water spilled from the ceiling on the left side of the screen and it got all the way inside through the keyboard. The water quantity was very small, still the mac gave out instantly. Now it’s rebooting fine but without the screen.

I would like to find if the screen is done for good or if the connexion to the logic board is screwed. After opening the mac nothing seems to point that the logic board or the display cables have suffered.

I have a working screen from a mid-2012 macbook pro i could install for testing but i dont know if it’s compatible. On the Ifixit shop the two screens have 50 dollard of price difference, although it has the same spec, also i dont want to mess with my working macbook.

I know i could launch the apple diagnosis but it seems i cant make it display on another screen via HDMI.

Any ideas to rules out possibilities ?

Thanks for reading.

⟐ Answer edited июля 29, 2026 at 5:34 GMT-7

So if anyone can help a new diy repair guy out it would be much appreciated!

⟐ Commented июля 29, 2026 at 2:49 GMT-7

I’m looking for a board-level diagnosis for my MacBook Pro Retina 15” Mid 2015 (A1398).

Configuration

• Intel Core i7
• 16 GB RAM
• macOS Monterey 12.7.6

History

Before repair:

• The original internal display was cracked but still displayed an image.
• The Mac worked perfectly with an external HDMI monitor.

During repair:

• A technician installed a display from a MacBook Pro 2013.
• The replacement display never worked.
• He reinstalled my original cracked display.
• Since then, the internal display has been completely black.

Current behavior

If the internal display cable is disconnected:

• Apple logo appears on the external HDMI monitor.
• Startup Manager (Option key) works.
• Internet Recovery works.
• But when booting from Macintosh HD, Recovery, EFI Boot or a bootable USB, the Apple logo appears, then the screen goes completely black.

If the internal display cable is connected:

• The internal display remains completely black.

The Mac appears to continue running:

• keyboard backlight works,
• volume keys work,
• fans operate normally,
• but there is no video output.

Already tried

• NVRAM reset
• SMC reset
• Safe Mode
• Internet Recovery
• Bootable USB installer
• OpenCore Legacy Patcher

Always the same result:
Apple logo → black screen.

Verbose mode also showed messages including:

• device is not readable
• failed to initialize volume keybag

Questions

1. Could installing a 2013 Retina display on a 2015 A1398 have damaged the LCD connector or another logic board component?
2. Which is the most likely cause?
   • LCD connector
   • LCD power/backlight circuit
   • Display cable
   • GPU
   • SSD/APFS
   • Logic board
3. What measurements or board-level tests would you perform before replacing parts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

⟐ Commented июля 23, 2026 at 13:03 GMT-7

⟐ Answered июля 21, 2026 at 18:32 GMT-7

⟐ Commented июля 19, 2026 at 12:47 GMT-7

Hello everyone,

Hope you all had a good week.

Just a quick one, do we think this is safe RE: Attached image. I asked AI but I wanted a fellow tech heads opinion. I'm also in a tight spot right now so cant exactly change it straight away.

Thank you in advance.

⟐ Answered июля 17, 2026 at 19:56 GMT-7

Original symptoms were short battery life and touchpad physical clicking not working. I bought a replacement battery and touchpad.

Battery was definitely bulging and putting pressure on the touchpad. I swapped out both and when booted back up - no mouse movement or clicking at all from the touchpad. External mouse works fine, so I went into system preferences and then Touchpad. It said "Touchpad not detected" or something along those lines and had a spinning circle indicating that it was searching for bluetooth touchpads.

So I opened it back up and swapped in the original touchpad - mouse movement but no clicking. But still, system preferences says it doesn't detect a touchpad (I was hoping to at least turn on tap to click.)

So, what am I missing? Is there some extra step to set up the touchpad with the OS? Does the lack of movement on the replacement pad mean that it's DOA?

Thanks for any help!

⟐ Answer accepted июля 11, 2026 at 16:28 GMT-7

⟐ Commented июля 07, 2026 at 2:40 GMT-7

This is how it looks

⟐ Commented июля 06, 2026 at 13:05 GMT-7

video of issue

Screen

Display cables

Or logic board issues

⟐ Commented июля 06, 2026 at 9:02 GMT-7

⟐ Answered июля 04, 2026 at 17:11 GMT-7

⟐ Commented июля 04, 2026 at 2:46 GMT-7

I replaced the battery in my Late 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” (A1398, logic board 820-3662-A) using the iFixit guide, which required removing the logic board.

While removing the heat sink, three of the four threaded mounting bosses separated from the logic board and remained attached to the heat sink. The heat sink screws were extremely tight, but I did not use excessive force or power tools.

Photos are attached showing:

• the detached mounting bosses still attached to the heat sink,

• the corresponding locations on the logic board,

• and the overall board.

The board itself does not appear to have torn fiberglass or obvious PCB damage.

The Mac now powers on and reaches the macOS login screen, but after several seconds the fans ramp up steadily and the machine shuts off. Before concluding that this is a thermal issue, I’d like to understand the mechanical failure.

My questions are:

1. On the 820-3662-A board, how are these heat sink mounting bosses originally attached?

2. Is this a known failure mode, or does it suggest the machine was previously repaired?

3. Can the bosses be properly reattached, and if so, what is the correct repair method?

4. If they cannot be repaired reliably, what is the recommended solution?

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone with board-level repair experience on this specific model.

⟐ Answered июля 02, 2026 at 6:25 GMT-7

Mac was inside of suitcase and it was inside of a bag.

Mac boots up,I can hear the chime,but the screen is totally black,not even “light” black. Caps lock light doesn’t work.

I tried SMC,PRAM reset, didn’t work.

Reconnecting screen display by unplugging those two things didn’t work. I used this video

Reconnecting battery didn’t work.

I also tried SMC,PRAM reset while the battery was disconnected and Mac was getting energy from the charger. Didn’t work. I used that video.

What else can I do before changing the screen?I don’t want to swap screen cause it’s expensive.

⟐ Commented июля 01, 2026 at 22:25 GMT-7