⟐ Answered марта 28, 2024 at 0:57 GMT-7

Чтож… Мой мак выдает красный индикатор на CPU B, который не отвечает за температуру а нижний

. Я пробовал поменять местами процессоры А и Б, но индикатор так и остался на Б, я предполагаю что материнская плата завершила свой срок, но хотелось бы надеяться на лучшее. У кого-то есть решение данной проблемы?

⟐ Edited by author июля 16, 2023 at 16:39 GMT-7

hdd -> ssd

cpu i5 6500 -> i7 6700k

после замены iMac не включается либо включается и кулер работает на полную мощность

Сброс SMC не помог

⟐ Answered января 13, 2023 at 4:16 GMT-7

Но!

Покупать у Apple очень дорого, использовать переходники не очень хочется.

Transcend производит такие накопители (JetDrive 820, 825, 850, 855).

Внешне они похожи на blade ssd, количество контактов абсолютно одинаковое.

Но по непонятным причинам Transcend про поддержку iMac ничего не говорит.

Пожалуйста, дайте ответ на самый главный вопрос: если я куплю pci-e ssd JetDrive 820, 825, 850, 855, он ПОДОЙДЁТ или НЕТ?

Hello. Please help me finally understand the choice of pci-e ssd. I'm ready to disassemble the iMac and replace it.

But!

It's very expensive to buy from Apple, it's not very desirable to use adapters.

Transcend produces such drives (JetDrive 820, 825, 850, 855).

Outwardly they look like a blade ssd, the number of contacts is exactly the same.

But for some reason, Transcend does not say anything about iMac support.

Please answer the most important question: if I buy a pci-e ssd JetDrive 820, 825, 850, 855, will it PICK or NOT?

⟐ Commented сентября 30, 2020 at 6:39 GMT-7

в связи с этим я решил заменить матрицу на новую но появилось два вопроса:

- существуют ли в принципе оригинальные матрицы и как их отличить от подделок?

- не появится ли пыль при установке новой матрицы?

для меня это важные вопросы, поскольку занимаюсь цветокоррекцией - для меня крайне важно правильное отображение цветов, и отсутствие пыли на экране.

заранее - спасибо!

⟐ Answered января 18, 2018 at 12:12 GMT-7

⟐ Answered мая 14, 2017 at 1:10 GMT-7

⟐ Commented февраля 15, 2017 at 5:37 GMT-7

Google Translation

whether it is possible Russification iMac G4

please help , russify iMac G4 OS X 10.1.2 processor PowerPC G4

⟐ Answer accepted августа 16, 2016 at 4:23 GMT-7

добрый день! у меня такая проблема! монитор не фиксируется и как бы я его не старался поднять вверх он автоматом опускается вниз до конца! стоит на родной подставке "ноге"!

подскажите как можно исправить?

и если это сервис будут ли снимать экран чтоб внутри делать крепление?

English: Stand is not staying in the right position!

Good afternoon! I have a problem! Monitor is not fixed, as if I had not tried to raise up it automatically drops down to the end! stands at home base "leg"!

Can you tell me how can I fix it?

And if I need to remove the screen to get inside to the mount?

⟐ Answer accepted июня 29, 2015 at 4:02 GMT-7

When I connected an external VGA monitor, I saw it did boot to the “No boot device” screen, which was expected since the original HDD was removed due to failure.

Eventually a MacOS install CD got stuck, so I opened it up and removed it manually. After that, the behavior changed. It now chimes with the green power LED, then as the external monitor briefly detects a signal, it shuts off.

If I try again right after, the power LED comes on but nothing else happens. No chime, no video, nothing until I power it off manually. After unplugging for a few seconds and plugging back in, it goes back to the initial state where it chimes and then shuts off when it should show video on both CRT and external display.

What can I do? I replaced the PRAM battery and it made no difference. It also shuts off before I can do a PRAM reset (Opt+Cmd+P+R), and the physical PRAM button hasn’t helped either.

Trickle voltages seem normal, but when it reaches the “power LED only” state, the down-converter board trickle voltages are lower than normal.

I can also hear the high-voltage crackling as it powers off, so I assume the CRT is receiving power in some way. One other thing of note is that either the speakers, or the down converter board make a high pitched sound, I'll attempt to identify the source later today.

⟐ Commented мая 19, 2026 at 3:45 GMT-7

As a disclaimer, I know this may be a hardware issue and that is why I am here. I have already taken it to Apple and they had no luck, telling me it needs a logic board replacement. It wasn't worth the money so this has turned into just a slow learning project that I've been chipping away at as a hobby.

I have tried to restore it with Apple Configurator and another MacBook, but after putting it into DFU mode and waiting for it to restore, it fails with this error (4014)

Unexpected device state 'DFU' expected 'RestoreOS' (Probably forced into DFU mode externally)

AC recognizes the Mac Mini, and the restore works up until Step 4/4, "Installing System", where it pauses halfway and then gives that error.

At that point I can see via the status light on the Mac Mini that it goes from a normal boot (white) to DFU mode again (solid amber) randomly, and AC sort of flickers at this point as well and then complains about the Mac Mini being in DFU (instead of RestoreOS).

I guess this could be something fried on the board, but I wouldn't know where to start because the only apparent issue being that it just randomly dips out of RestoreOS and back to DFU is very odd.

I've heard this error (4014) can be a faulty cable, but I've tried a lot of different ones, including a genuine Apple USB-C cable. I may buy a brand new one and try again.

Do you know of any software or hardware issues this could be? It seems like a simple issue but with no real rhyme or reason to it. Even if you just have a hunch, any tips on where I should look next would be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Answer accepted мая 18, 2026 at 15:16 GMT-7

⟐ Commented мая 11, 2026 at 7:45 GMT-7

I am planning to upgrade my iMac (27 inch - mid2010) which is now 10 years old and running on El Capitan 10.11.6 OS. Since its having a good CPU (i7 2.93) I am considering replacing the stock HDD (1TB) to an SSD, and maximising the RAM from 8GB to 32GB.

1. is this upgrade worth it? and will I notice a different when using it?
2. for the RAM upgrade, I think this part is the best option (iMac Intel 27" (Core i5 or i7) EMC 2390 (Mid 2010) Memory Maxxer RAM Upgrade Kit)?
3. for the SSD, I was reviewing this guide (Mac Intel 27" EMC 2390 Hard Drive Replacement), and I am confused about the parts options. the SSD Upgrade Bundle with Crucial MX500 SSD 1TB, or buying 2 TB SSD Segate Hybrid 3.5" Hard Drive with all the required tools separately which will almost cost the same. my concerns are:
   • is the two SSD mentioned having the same performance?
   • is the two SSD mentioned having the same certification with my iMac?
   • is there any drawback for using Segate 2TB over Crucial 1TB?

**

This is my first time upgrading my iMac, and I really appreciate if you can guide me in selecting the best parts to get the most performance out of it for the longest period.

Regards,

⟐ Answered мая 07, 2026 at 22:33 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted мая 02, 2026 at 17:40 GMT-7

⟐ Answered мая 02, 2026 at 11:48 GMT-7

First, sorry for the hiatus. I've been out of the business for a while. But I'm back!

Apple couldn't tell me anything. They offered me to pay a flat $500 fee, and they would replace anything that needed to be replaced untill it worked…

I ended up just selling it for parts…

So I have a Apple Mac Pro "Quad Core" 3.7 (Late 2013) that wont power on.

I do not know the history of the machine.

I plugged it in and got nothing, no beeps. no fan spinning, no response.

I do all the normal procedures, swapped ram, tried different SSD, reset SMC, tried different power cable and outlet. None of that worked.

I took the case off and found a bright red LED shinning.

So I started searching the internet, thinking that there MUST be some information about this red LED.... NOTHING!!!

So I proceeded to take the whole thing apart, took it down to bare bones to make sure everything was connected properly and to see if I could find any corrosion from any liquid damage or such.

While I was at it I re applied thermal paste on both the CPU and GPU.

Nothing appeared to be out of place, no damage to the board, all connections were secure.

I put it back together, powered it on, and still nothing, just the red LED...

WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS THING!?

Please, if you have any idea what could be wrong, any suggestions, or any explanation about this red LED I would LOVE to hear it.

I'm totally baffled by this one...

Thanks in advanced,

Taylor

⟐ Answered мая 02, 2026 at 5:18 GMT-7

I got horizontal lines over the display! During the warranty period they replaced the board ( it blacked out ) and now this is happening. They refused to replace the device saying out of warranty and asked to replace it :-|. They were not even sure that changing the display will fix the issue. I am hesitant to replace the screen as I am better off to buy a new one rather keep repairing the faulty product.

Is there any way to fix it?

Tried
- Reinstall the OS
- External Display = Works fine
- Reseating those 3 cables

Lines kind of flickers, may be some lose cables?

Please help

⟐ Commented мая 02, 2026 at 0:54 GMT-7