⟐ Commented апреля 24, 2026 at 10:03 GMT-7

• There is no ice build up.
• The fan by the evaporator panel is running.
• The fan by the compressor is running
• The LED on the inverter is ON and solid (no blinks).
• We replaced the inverter board just to be sure.
• The U-V-W connectors to the compressor show about ~15 ohms between them.
• Thermistor in freezer is showing expected values for room temperature.

It seems and sounds like everything is running properly but the freezer is still room temperature. My current belief is that its a problem with the compressor. It is running, it's making humming sounds like the motor is running but the compressor itself is getting hot and all of the tubes coming out of the compressor are room temperature.

I'd like to not replace the compressor. From what I hear it is expensive and I don't think I can do it myself. If anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.

⟐ Answer edited апреля 24, 2026 at 3:01 GMT-7

⟐ Commented апреля 23, 2026 at 2:18 GMT-7

Recently it stopped making ice again. Took it back apart, Defrost area was not frozen over. Some slight frost on the condenser tubes, but nothing else. Melted it all, also blew the air onto the feed line port (where it comes into cabinet). This resolved the issue for a couple days.

No ice again, did some checking and found that the water inlet assembly could be going out, letting water drip, which was freezing up. Replaced this, and at same time cleaned all the dust off the coils and such. Also replaced both the filter in basement (in line with feed) and the one in fridge. This worked for several weeks, but yesterday no ice again.

I'm going to check for iced over again, but where else should I look?

⟐ Answer edited апреля 23, 2026 at 2:03 GMT-7

What could be causing this cycle, and what component should we check or replace to fix it permanently?

⟐ Answer edited апреля 22, 2026 at 8:20 GMT-7

The temp is set at 37 for the fridge and 0 for the freezer.

I bought a couple of wifi temp monitors and they are both showing the same thing.

The fridge fluctuates between 37 and 55 and the freezer from -5 to +5 (even when the doors are closed for a long time).

Is this fluctuation normal ??? Should I be concerned about the hardware ?

Also, the digital readout on the door constantly says the actual temp is 37 even if the door is opened for a minute or 2. It never moves from 37.

⟐ Commented апреля 22, 2026 at 7:33 GMT-7

⟐ Commented апреля 22, 2026 at 4:17 GMT-7

The water dispenser has worked fine throughout all this, and I have an ice maker in the bottom freezer that has also worked properly throughout the door ice maker failures.

Periodically I can also hear the fridge sound like it is attempting to fill it with water, but no water is ever dispensed into the tray of the ice maker assembly.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what may be causing this and how to fix it?

⟐ Commented апреля 21, 2026 at 7:53 GMT-7

refrigerator. We opened it up to find everything was defrosting. The fridge initially seemed unaffected, but after several hours also began to lose its temp. The fan inside the freezer blew foolish air, far from cold.

I pulled it out of the recessed area it's pushed into, took the cardboard panel off the back and found a thick layer of dust on the circular fan that blows on the compressor. I vacuumed all the dust and basically anything I could get at, along with suctioning the drainage tube to clear any blockages. Heard no clicking noises. It all still worked and ran, just no cold air.

On a side note, I looked for the radiator grating, the tubes that circulate the refrigerant, and it seems like they're incorporated into the fan, at least I could see it just underneath and possibly inside the fan. Don't know for sure.

I cleaned off the cardboard and the two vents placed inside the recessed area, there for air circulation. I also looked behind some panels to see if any plugs/connectors were burnt. Found none and made sure all plugs were secure. I then put it all back together.

It seemed to have no effect, I left the fridge out of its cave overnight and went to bed. I woke up this morning and it was working again. The fridge is cold, but the freezer might not be working at full capacity. The ice packs have yet to become rock solid again.

What are these issues indicative of? How did my freezer regain at least 75 to 80 percent of its capacity? I was hoping the particulars of my problem might narrow the scope of possible solutions.

Its a GE model GSH22JFXA WW

Thank you for reading through that mess.

⟐ Commented апреля 21, 2026 at 2:14 GMT-7

I have a top-freezer refrigerator with a total capacity of 587 liters. Its uniqueness is that it has no air passage between the freezer and the refrigerator (it has no damper or anything). So how is it still a refrigerator? The answer is, the evaporator tubes after they pass through the freezer, the tube continues inside the back wall of the refrigerator, where there is a small fan that pushes the air into the refrigerator.

A few weeks ago I found a block of ice on the capillary in the evaporator entrance area, the evaporator itself was clean, which means there is no problem with defrosting. I defrosted it with hot air and some hot water.

After about a week I discovered that the refrigerator was not cold, the freezer was frozen, but there was no cooling in the refrigerator. A check of the fans, thermostats, etc. showed that everything was fine.

I installed a service valve on the compressor (a needle valve that fits on the copper service pipe), a gas test showed a negative condition during suction (PSI below zero about -15 -20), which means there is a gas problem. But this is not a leak, with a leak the gauge will not reach vacuum.

What did I do? In the meantime, I filled the gas to get cooling output (this is also proof that it is not a leak, at first I filled a lot of gas (according to the manufacturer's instructions 72 g R600a), I got ice up to the compressor. Then I removed the gas and left some.

The situation now, there is cooling, there is freezing, but I think the refrigerator cannot reach low temperatures because of the excess gas. Pressure in suction mode is about -10 PSI, in rest mode 4-5 PSI.

According to my suspicion, this is a soft blockage of oil or wax at the end of the capillary, which does not completely block the capillary, but causes partial flow.

Can I perform a nitrogen flush (full vacuum, then nitrogen flow through the high-pressure service valve) without opening the system, without soldering, and then "push" the oil and wax (I can also heat the end of the capillary a little), back into the filter/condenser/compressor?

⟐ Commented апреля 17, 2026 at 17:25 GMT-7

⟐ Commented апреля 17, 2026 at 11:31 GMT-7

I have cleaned the condenser section which was quite dirty but not completely clogged. I carefully vacuumed and cleaned stuck on films from the fan blade & condenser coils. The refrigerant suction temp is cool going into the compressor and very warm descarging out of the compressor. I see no components that seem to have any issues running and activating, etc.

I have not pulled interior panels yet since I hear the evaporator fan running and feel the airflow coming from the top center vent opening at rear of the freezer section.

I found the tech info sheet below the front underside of the unit and tried the panel display test and the push button PCB test as instructed there. Both test showed no error codes.

As far as I can tell, it has been running continually since the problem became consistant. There does seem to bee a high frequency sound I believe coming from the compressor, but not overly alarming in volume level.

I am an HVAC technician with extensive background knowledge but need help with someone who can help me complete this diagnosis and repair it myself.

Please advise with my sincere respect and appreciation, Randall

I have determined that the display board still works. I found this when I was attempting to remove the display board/panel and was putting upward pressure on the tabs trying to unseat them. As I was essentially lifting the entire door (left) slightly while doing so, I noticed that the display panel lit up. Once I removed the tension, it went blank again. So, I lifted the entire door by 1/2" or so, and the panel lit up again, and once I let it back down, it went blank.

So, I took the top left hinge cover off and can see the wires and the braided water line go through the left hand edge/hinge area of the door. It is very tight in the small hole that has the water line and a taped set of wires going down through it.

I suspect that the wires for the display panel are being pinched and are likely somewhat frayed from the constant motion of the door swinging, but I cannot determine who to get into the door itself to track the wires and see where the issue might be.

I can pull up slightly on the wiring that goes through the hole, but the wires are all taped together at that point. So, either the issue is under the tape, or below that point. That is the area I am trying to get into.

Any thoughts on how to disassemble the left door enough that I can get in to see the wires and they travel down the left spine of the door?

Thanks!

The included LT1000P water filter is bone dry. This fridge automatically bypasses the filter if it doesn’t see one installed, so water and ice still dispense, but with unfiltered water. (Luckily not much of an issue, for we have good enough tap water, but I digress.)

Fridge is very new - installed ~1 year ago but didn’t have water hooked up until recently.

I’ve taken off the panel that covers the tank and plumbing, and I didn’t see anything obviously wrong, but I don’t know what I’m looking at, really.

I have tried:

• Removing and replacing the filter with water off
• Unplugging and plugging it back in
• Removing and replacing the filter several times
• I turn the filter until it stops.

Right now I’m thinking the included filter is faulty, incorrectly made, et cetera. Wondering if anyone else has this problem and how to fix it - I’ll try a new filter when possible.

⟐ Commented апреля 13, 2026 at 9:48 GMT-7

Could it be door switch or water inlet valve? Seems like something is dropping voltage when the cycle kicks in. I’m kind of stumped here.

⟐ Commented апреля 11, 2026 at 16:14 GMT-7

Finally got up to my Daughers and measured the Voltage of the Red and Black, and it was 15.73 Volts, so that was good. Then I installed the eBay purchase of control board 5304527931, that looks like mine, but bought using that plastic case # on the back...8076419. So I have replaced the ice chute, now drops ice or water, and tongue springs back into position. And control panel NOW lights up, where as last 2 weeks has been black. Although you can see the missing parts of the LED #'s. But fantastic... Just to see the screen lit, and ice and water on demand working again. I guess instead of buying a $27 8076419 control board, I should invest a little more in a 5304527931. Thanks for the help. Also, still not sure why control board has that LED strip, but no wires going to it, so that when in use, would light up the water cup or container... But fantastic day, here....

Haven't checked for 12 Volts DC at the J4 Red and Black, as the Refrigerator in Question is 40 miles from me, and I always like to have a few ideas in line before taking the drive. Will get back with voltage asap.

Added 3 shots of under the black plastic on the control panel, showing any numbers visible. Imagine only one Square #2 Screw head holding black plastic on. really easy. Funny, when I search online for the Frigidaire 242209710 control board, I see 85% of them are attached to another larger white board. Must be a ton of different boards, thru the years.

I was working on the ICE Chute as the spring had broke to return the little hang down flap and I made the mistake (I guess) of reattaching the control panel without unplugging the Refrigerator. I heard a DING or some sort of audible tone, and after all together, the screen is dead, and the right side LIGHTS are out. The freezer light are ok, and I replaced the bulbs on right side but still dead. And the freezer and fridge are still keeping cold, I bought two thermometers to be able to tell. I have replaced the control panel and the ice maker chute with eBay purchases and still dead screen, and dead lights on fridge side. You think the bottom control board? In searching the web I see two different videos of taking off the control panel, and when they do , there are only 3 plugs going into it. Mine had 4? Maybe before we moved into Condo, it had some work done?? My image is the bottom. Maybe different model?? But will know more when I get back to the frig and take a reading at that J4 3 wire plug for voltage. Model # picture added. TY

Added a closeup picture of control board plastic back. It had a number on it of 8076419, not sure how it compares to the number 5304527931, I bought one using the number 8076419.... might have been a mistake

⟐ Commented апреля 11, 2026 at 6:01 GMT-7

⟐ Commented апреля 07, 2026 at 3:12 GMT-7