EDIT: This article mentions that my iMac can upgrade to the Gen 5 SSD's: https://beetstech.com/blog/apple-proprie...

I'm thinking it might be a compatibility issue.  I noticed the MZ-KKW5120 was wider/"Fatter" in appearance than the original PCIe NVME SSD in my system. The MZ-JPV512R looks like it is closer to the size of my original PCIe SSD. Maybe I just bought the wrong SSD and need to get the MZ-JPV512R?

I get this from the Problem report:

• Panic Report ***

panic(cpu 0 caller 0xffffff7f9367eb92): nvme: "InitializeNVMe error = 0xE00002D7\n"

EDIT 2: I actually found out the answer from two different sources.

Some guy from eBay:

"Yes this is a known issue. If you dig through the internet, you'll find users that have experienced this exact issue. It has to do with the iMac chipset for that model year which affects a small percentage of those iMac owners. We've seen this same issue as well with UK/Aus iMac models as well. The AHCI model is not as fast as the NVMe since it doesn't use that communications protocol. (~2200MB/s Read 1700MB/s Write on x4 link width iMacs). Since the newer versions are more efficient, there is no throttling under heavy loads. Also note that the deep sleep issue is just a small portion of the problem. Users have also complained about corruption and data loss. "

This one was from Beetstech:

"I don't think your SSD is faulty. Looking back on our testing of SSPOLARIS controlled NVMe Apple drives it appears we noted a kernel panic on wake from sleep on some 2015 A1419's."

⟐ Commented июня 18, 2020 at 8:15 GMT-7

I personally went with the 256gb Flash option so my iMac doesn't have a harddrive OR a SATA harddrive cable (connector & power). The Flash storage option ONLY comes with 256gb PCie storage mounted onto the logic board, where the Fusion option comes with BOTH a 128gb PCie storage mounted onto the logic board AND a 1TB Hard Disk Drive that is configured to appear as a "Single" drive.

The main issue with installing a 3rd party ssd into your retina iMac is that it can't read the temperature of the drive so it forces the fans to run at full speed. When the 5K iMac first came out, there weren't many solutions to this as the parts for it didn't exist (as you can see from the lack of parts listed on the 5k iMac product page)

I believe this can be solved with this. OWC in-line digital thermometer

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDIM...

**Since I got the 256gb+ flash storage upon purchase, I believe I will need these parts in addition to the Thermometer**

SATA Connector & Power Cable:iMac Intel 27" 5K (Late 2014-Mid 2015) Hard Drive Cable

HDD Bracket: http://www.impactcomputers.com/922-9135....

Adapter Caddy 3.5" to 2.5":http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/84...

(All parts listed available as of May 2015)

So My Question Is....

Does this all look correct? Have I glossed over concerns I should have?

Thanks for reading this

So I just got my iMac today and I cracked it open within the hour I got it.

I installed a 1TB ssd where my hard disk fusion would have been if i hadn't gone with the flash option. Also threw in 32gb of RAM.

All the stuff I mentioned worked really well and i actually didn't need the HDD bracket, Apple gives you the bracket but not the Sata cables.

Here are some pics of the install

_________________________________

(image 1)All of the guts ripped out for the most part

(image 2)Apple was nice enough to give us a HD bracket, but not nice enough to give us the cable.

(image 3)SSD in 2.5" to 3.5" adapter. Also, shot of inline OWC thermometer from above.

(image 4)Cut out a portion of the sticker label so the thermometer would have direct contact against metal

(image 5)Everything in place getting ready to seal it back up. Praying it all works still

(image 6) WORKS!

(image 7) More info :)

________________________________

Everything went really smoothly--getting the screen off is actually really easy if you're patient.

DO THIS WITH A FRIEND

I was lucky enough to have a buddy of mine as my screen holder while I was making sure the drive could be read/partitioned and the thermometer was working alright.

Crack those iMac's open, they're really not that difficult to work on

⟐ Commented июня 12, 2020 at 20:04 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited июня 10, 2020 at 15:52 GMT-7

Is this the case when replacing the optical drive with an SSD rather than the hard drive?

⟐ Commented мая 09, 2020 at 10:58 GMT-7

Recently my iMac 21.5" EMC2308 wouldn't start. Nothing happends when pressing the power button.

I have just taken the LCD off and found the diagnostic LEDS.

While connected to powersource LED1 is green, but nothing happens when i press the power button.

Is it possible that the PSU can be faulty when LED1 is green as it should be ?

Hope you can help me get my iMac working again

⟐ Commented апреля 15, 2020 at 8:36 GMT-7

I have a 2009 27” iMac that upon pressing the power button, makes the Mac chime, but then displays nothing on the screen and the fans then spin up. I have tried resetting the SMC and checked for other power related issues.

⟐ Commented марта 21, 2020 at 14:56 GMT-7

I have early 2008 8,1 iMac with two 2+2GB modules. I would like to upgrade it to 4+2GB.

My questions are:

1) can I keep one of my old 2GB Kingston modules and add just one Crucial/OWC 4GB module to this configuration? Will it be stable? Or do I have to buy matched pair 4+2 made by one manufacturer (OWC, Crucial) to ensure the stability?

Is it right to insert 2GB module into the left slot and 4GB into the right slot? Or it does make no difference?

2) Of course I would prefer to upgrade to 8GB too, but let's say I buy matched Crucial pair 2x4GB (CT2KIT51264AC800) but the system doesn't recognize 8GB, is there any chance to run at least 6GB on the same configuration without further modules changing? Or will i have to throw 2nd 4GB module away and use another 2GB module instead?

Thank you very much for your help

⟐ Answered ноября 30, 2019 at 14:40 GMT-7

Suggestions? Thoughts?

Thanks,

SH

⟐ Answer edited октября 29, 2019 at 20:38 GMT-7

Could anybody please say if it's possible to upgrade graphix card of the late 2012 21,5 inch iMac?

I am currently using the basic 650M, but it does not satisfy the requirements of videogames :)

I think I should meet some trouble with installing GPU's like 800-900-series due to the difference in "sort of" sockets.

If somebody could provide a link to some manual or guide, I would be really grateful.

Thank you for your thoughts!

⟐ Commented октября 29, 2019 at 14:35 GMT-7

could someone tell me where I can find pinout for espower pwb-iv49151t inverter board please ?

I need to test it as I've just receive replacement screen for my iMac and it's still dead.

symptoms :

-4th diagnostic led not on.

-when dp ribbon disconnected the fans go full blast.

-when all the cables are connected the internal screen is discovered as online by system info and starts with internal as main screen (4th led still off).

-when disconnected from inverter board screen is not discovered.

the Mac works fine with external display.

if anyone have any suggestions I'll be forever grateful.

Seb

⟐ Commented октября 14, 2019 at 9:08 GMT-7

⟐ Comment deleted сентября 23, 2019 at 18:19 GMT-7

EMC 2429 A1312

Hi,

I was on my computer and all of a sudden it shut off. I tried to unplug it plug it back in and waited for a bit, and I still get nothing, it won't boot up whatsoever.

My guess is that the power supply is dead.

I was just wondering what the part number might be.

ALSO, Will a 2009 iMac PSU 614-0476, work with my 2011 iMac?

this is the power supply I found on ebay that I'm thinking of getting

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Apple-iMac-A1312-...

Thanks!

⟐ Commented сентября 17, 2019 at 7:18 GMT-7

⟐ Commented мая 24, 2019 at 3:53 GMT-7

I have taken the bezel off to check diagnostic lights. No lights come on when power cord plugged in.

I would be grateful for any ideas.

⟐ Commented февраля 13, 2019 at 8:01 GMT-7

Purchasing a BTO iMac late 2013 27", with the "basic" Nvidia 775 2GB. video graphic card, is it possible to upgrade aftermarket to the 780 4GB.?

Thanks.

⟐ Answer edited января 07, 2019 at 11:28 GMT-7

Ideas please?

⟐ Comment deleted ноября 05, 2018 at 10:15 GMT-7

Thanks for the quick replies. I didn't know they still had the LEDs. I went back to it and plugged it in to see if I had any LED lights on. They were slightly lower on this model but I found them, in case anyone has this issue and don't see them look a little lower than the location on the photo. Anyway I plugged it in and as soon as I did the first LED came on but then went off quickly. I then unplugged it and replugged it in. the second time the LED did not show at all to be on. So after its initial plug in the LED will not come on. I will leave it unplugged and try again. But I only saw one LED come on and it went off quickly. I suspect the logic is bad as well. Would this be a good deduction?

⟐ Answer accepted октября 23, 2018 at 8:42 GMT-7

⟐ Answered сентября 14, 2018 at 7:41 GMT-7

Thank you allot for the reply! As an IT worker will this work for my windows pc?

Specs:

i7 7700K

Gigabyte X399 Designare EX

ASUS GeForce GTX 1080

Corsair 2x16GB Vengeance RGB DDR4-2666

Samsung 970 Pro 1TB PCIe M.2

Samsung 970 Evo PCIe 2TB M.2

Thermaltake Floe Dual Riing RGB 280

Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium SSR-1000TR

Microsoft Windows 10

Node 202 Case

Do I need anything extra to "dock" this hard drive?

Also please send me a link to the cheapest docking station available.

Thanks!

⟐ Answer accepted августа 30, 2018 at 3:45 GMT-7

My iMac has a display problem. Works perfectly well with an external monitor plugged in so I've ruled out the graphics card. It started off just going blank after a couple of hours use. Then it wouldn't come on at all. Just a quick flash when it was booting and nothing after that. I've tried looking at it with a torch to see if it's just the backlight but not able to see anything.

When the LED ribbon cable is connected to the logic board the external monitor works as an extended desktop. When I unplug the cable the external monitor works as the main display.

Thinking it's either the LED that needs replaced or the backlight inverter board but no idea really. Suppose it could even be the logic board itself! Any suggestions on how to narrow the problem down to one thing or the other would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

⟐ Answer accepted августа 08, 2018 at 5:23 GMT-7