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Текущая версия: Nick ,

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The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. The P2015 series is a lemon, and is not reliable.
 
The USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but be aware that the odds of the fix working are not in your favor. If you continue having problems with the printer, it's going to be caused by a bad formatter board.
 
The good news is the issue is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and always seems to come back. I have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. If you are thinking of buying a new board do not waste your time or money; even the refurb boards die.
 
Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer. Just make sure you use a oven you never plan on using for food to repair it. It's new enough to have a RoHS compliant board, but you still do not want to get the chemicals in your food. The only difference in tearing the printer down is going to be the amount of cables, depending on if it is a base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray model.
 
If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it:
 
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver.
* Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model.
* Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same.
* Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some.
* Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it.
* Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours.
* Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away.
* Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck.
 
Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy.
Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy.

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Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. The P2015 series is a lemon, and is not reliable.
 
The USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but be aware that the odds of the fix working are not in your favor. If you continue having problems with the printer, it's going to be caused by a bad formatter board.
 
The good news is the issue is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and always seems to come back. I have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. If you are thinking of buying a new board do not waste your time or money; even the refurb boards die.
 
Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer. Just make sure you use a oven you never plan on using for food to repair it. It's new enough to have a RoHS compliant board, but you still do not want to get the chemicals in your food. The only difference in tearing the printer down is going to be the amount of cables, depending on if it is a base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray model.
 
If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it:
 
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) isport are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver.
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) isport are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver.
* Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model.
* Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same.
* Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some.
* Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it.
* Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours.
* Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away.
* Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck.
 
Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy.

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Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faultyusually related to the formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especiallyThis problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to beThe P2015 series is a bad formatter boardlemon, and is not reliable.
The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faultyusually related to the formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especiallyThis problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to beThe P2015 series is a bad formatter boardlemon, and is not reliable.
 
You can certainly try and do the driver and USB fixThe USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but more often thenbe aware that the odds of the fix working are not in your favor. If you continue having problems with the printer, it's going to be caused by a failedbad formatter board.
You can certainly try and do the driver and USB fixThe USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but more often thenbe aware that the odds of the fix working are not in your favor. If you continue having problems with the printer, it's going to be caused by a failedbad formatter board.
 
I have good news and bad news. TheThe good news is you can attempt to reflow the formatter board and revive the printerissue is repairable, but the problembad news is thisthe repair is a total gambletemporary and usually comesalways seems to come back. The bad news is allI have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. If you are thinking of these formatterbuying a new board do not waste your time or money; even the refurb boards fail at some point, so it isn't worth replacingdie.
I have good news and bad news. TheThe good news is you can attempt to reflow the formatter board and revive the printerissue is repairable, but the problembad news is thisthe repair is a total gambletemporary and usually comesalways seems to come back. The bad news is allI have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. If you are thinking of these formatterbuying a new board do not waste your time or money; even the refurb boards fail at some point, so it isn't worth replacingdie.
 
You shouldReflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer. Just make sure you use something like a throwaway toaster oven you never plan on using for food to never use to cook food. The boards arerepair it. It's new enough to behave a RoHS compliant board, but you still do not want to breatheget the chemicals in your food. The only difference in tearing the boardprinter down is going to be the amount of cables, depending on if it is a base model, network, network/duplex or eat themnetwork/duplex/add'l tray model.
You shouldReflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer. Just make sure you use something like a throwaway toaster oven you never plan on using for food to never use to cook food. The boards arerepair it. It's new enough to behave a RoHS compliant board, but you still do not want to breatheget the chemicals in your food. The only difference in tearing the boardprinter down is going to be the amount of cables, depending on if it is a base model, network, network/duplex or eat themnetwork/duplex/add'l tray model.
 
The reflow fix works for all ofIf you do opt to try reflowing the models. However, the cablesboard, here's how to do vary per model. The base model has the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer.it:
The reflow fix works for all ofIf you do opt to try reflowing the models. However, the cablesboard, here's how to do vary per model. The base model has the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer.it:
 
If you reflow the board, here's how to do it:

*
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver.
* Step 2: For good measure,take picturesOnce you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring. '''Note:wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The P2015network/duplex and P2015 d series modelsnetwork/duplex/add'l tray is going to have differentmore wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.'''then a base model.
* Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cablingunplug the cables going to the board. You will see about 4-5~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printerprinter but they should be the same.
* Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly.
*
PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some.
* Step
5: '''PutTo extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under ALLall of the BGA chips. This will ensurechips on the board. The idea is your reflow works correctly. Makewill be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.'''it to clean it.
* Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably taketakes around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: BumpingDO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the formatter board will ruin it.'''cool for 8-12+ hours.
* Step 7: CleanIf you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven good, or leavethroughly. If the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heededis disposable, clean it a little and put it away.
* Step 8: PutAfter letting the board cool, put it back in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixedand try your luck.
Some advice I can give you that might extend
the problem.
* 9: '''Optional:
printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a small heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips and thermal Epoxymount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to keep the chips on the board cooler. Thisbe sure they will prolong the life of the reflow.'''

'''Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.'''
not move use thermal Epoxy.
If you reflow the board, here's how to do it:

*
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver.
* Step 2: For good measure,take picturesOnce you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring. '''Note:wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The P2015network/duplex and P2015 d series modelsnetwork/duplex/add'l tray is going to have differentmore wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.'''then a base model.
* Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cablingunplug the cables going to the board. You will see about 4-5~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printerprinter but they should be the same.
* Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly.
*
PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some.
* Step
5: '''PutTo extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under ALLall of the BGA chips. This will ensurechips on the board. The idea is your reflow works correctly. Makewill be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.'''it to clean it.
* Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably taketakes around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: BumpingDO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the formatter board will ruin it.'''cool for 8-12+ hours.
* Step 7: CleanIf you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven good, or leavethroughly. If the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heededis disposable, clean it a little and put it away.
* Step 8: PutAfter letting the board cool, put it back in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixedand try your luck.
Some advice I can give you that might extend
the problem.
* 9: '''Optional:
printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a small heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips and thermal Epoxymount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to keep the chips on the board cooler. Thisbe sure they will prolong the life of the reflow.'''

'''Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.'''
not move use thermal Epoxy.

Статус:

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Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to be a bad formatter board.
 
You can certainly try and do the driver and USB fix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board.
 
I have good news and bad news. The good news is you can attempt to reflow the formatter board and revive the printer, but the problem is this is a total gamble and usually comes back. The bad news is all of these formatter boards fail at some point, so it isn't worth replacing.
 
You should use something like a throwaway toaster oven you plan to never use to cook food. The boards are new enough to be RoHS but you still do not want to breathe the chemicals in the board or eat them.
 
The reflow fix works for all of the models. However, the cables do vary per model. The base model has the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer.
 
If you reflow the board, here's how to do it:
 
* 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is.
* 2: For good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''Note: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.'''
* 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer.
* 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly.
* 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.'''
* 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it.'''
* 7: Clean the oven good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded.
* 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem.
* 9: '''Optional: Get a small heatsink and thermal Epoxy if you want to keep the chips on the board cooler. This will prolong the life of the reflow.'''
 
'''Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.'''

Статус:

open

Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to be a bad formatter board.
You


You
can certainly try and do the driver and USB fix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board.
The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to be a bad formatter board.
You


You
can certainly try and do the driver and USB fix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board.
I have good news and bad news. The good news is you can attempt to reflow the formatter board and revive the printer, but the problem is this is a total gamble and usually comes back. The bad news is all of these formatter boards fail at some point, so it isn't worth replacing.
 
You should use something like a throwaway toaster oven you plan to never use to cook food. The boards are new enough to be RoHS but you still do not want to breathe the chemicals in the board or eat them.
 
The reflow fix works for all of the models. However, the cables do vary per model. The base model has the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer.
 
If you reflow the board, here's how to do it:
 
* 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is.
* 2: For good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''Note: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.'''
* 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer.
* 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly.
* 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.'''
* 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it.'''
* 7: Clean the oven good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded.
* 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem.
Note
'''Note
: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.again.'''
Note
'''Note
: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.again.'''

Статус:

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Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers areThe P2015 is known forto have formatter board failures, so I suspect yourissues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board isboard. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the problem. This thing is so bad,printer ages. I have hadthink it's probably going to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you followbe a bad formatter board.
You can certainly try and do
the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairingfix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board.
I have good news and bad news. The good news is you can attempt to reflow
the formatter board first. Just rememberand revive the more you reflow itprinter, but the sooner it will die for good. Reflows areproblem is this is a temporary fixtotal gamble and usually comes back. The bad news is all of these formatter boards fail at best.

Try to
some point, so it isn't worth replacing.
You should
use something like a throwaway toaster oven for this justyou plan to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed designnever use to keepcook food. The boards are new enough to be RoHS but you still do not want to breathe the heat in, though.

The models go as follows
P2015=Standard P2015. No duplexer, networking or additional trays shipped with
chemicals in the printer.
P2015d=P2015 with a duplexer. No networking
board or additional included trays.
P2015dn=P2015d with a Ethernet port. No additional trays included.
P2015x=P2015dtn. Includes a P2015 with a duplexer and Ethernet and
eat them.
The reflow fix works for all of the models. However, the cables do vary per model. The base model
has one extra tray bundled in.

* Step
the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer.
If you reflow the board, here's how to do it:
*
1: Remove the formatter board. It livesThe board is on the side where the I/OUSB and Ethernet (if on your model) is.
* Step 2: TakeFor good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''TheNote: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
*
duplexer add-on.'''
* 3:
Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer.
* 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way toYou can do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffswith anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly.
* 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.'''
* 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! YouNote: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it if you do!it.'''
* '''Clean7: Clean the oven good after doing this.'''good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded.
* 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem.
Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY.
It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat thiswill probably fail the same way in short order again.
These printers areThe P2015 is known forto have formatter board failures, so I suspect yourissues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board isboard. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the problem. This thing is so bad,printer ages. I have hadthink it's probably going to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you followbe a bad formatter board.
You can certainly try and do
the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairingfix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board.
I have good news and bad news. The good news is you can attempt to reflow
the formatter board first. Just rememberand revive the more you reflow itprinter, but the sooner it will die for good. Reflows areproblem is this is a temporary fixtotal gamble and usually comes back. The bad news is all of these formatter boards fail at best.

Try to
some point, so it isn't worth replacing.
You should
use something like a throwaway toaster oven for this justyou plan to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed designnever use to keepcook food. The boards are new enough to be RoHS but you still do not want to breathe the heat in, though.

The models go as follows
P2015=Standard P2015. No duplexer, networking or additional trays shipped with
chemicals in the printer.
P2015d=P2015 with a duplexer. No networking
board or additional included trays.
P2015dn=P2015d with a Ethernet port. No additional trays included.
P2015x=P2015dtn. Includes a P2015 with a duplexer and Ethernet and
eat them.
The reflow fix works for all of the models. However, the cables do vary per model. The base model
has one extra tray bundled in.

* Step
the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer.
If you reflow the board, here's how to do it:
*
1: Remove the formatter board. It livesThe board is on the side where the I/OUSB and Ethernet (if on your model) is.
* Step 2: TakeFor good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''TheNote: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
*
duplexer add-on.'''
* 3:
Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer.
* 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way toYou can do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffswith anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly.
* 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.'''
* 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! YouNote: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it if you do!it.'''
* '''Clean7: Clean the oven good after doing this.'''good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded.
* 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem.
Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY.
It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat thiswill probably fail the same way in short order again.

Статус:

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Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem. This thing is so bad, I have had to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you follow the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairing the formatter board first. Just remember the more you reflow it the sooner it will die for good. Reflows are a temporary fix at best.
 
Try to use a toaster oven for this just to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed design to keep the heat in, though.
 
The models go as follows
P2015=Standard P2015. No duplexer, networking or additional trays shipped with the printer.
P2015d=P2015 with a duplexer. No networking or additional included trays.
P2015dn=P2015d with a Ethernet port. No additional trays included.
P2015x=P2015dtn. Includes a P2015 with a duplexer and Ethernet and has one extra tray bundled in.
 
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is.
* Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
* Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in.
* Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
* Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
* Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.

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Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem-so muchproblem. This thing is so this is the 2nd questionbad, I have seenhad to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you follow the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairing the topic relating to bad formatter boardsboard first. Just remember the more you reflow it the sooner it will die for good. Reflows are a temporary fix at best.
Try to use a toaster oven for this just to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed design to keep the heat in, though.
These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem-so muchproblem. This thing is so this is the 2nd questionbad, I have seenhad to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you follow the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairing the topic relating to bad formatter boardsboard first. Just remember the more you reflow it the sooner it will die for good. Reflows are a temporary fix at best.
Try to use a toaster oven for this just to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed design to keep the heat in, though.
 
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works); '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again'''

Take
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board out of the printer by removingboard. It lives on the side panel withwhere the I/O

next, take a picture
is.
* Step 2: Take pictures
of how the cables went, then disconnect them

Remove
wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the 4 screws fromd model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
* Remove
the formatter board that holdscrews and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in

If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as
in.
* Find
a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs onboard in the cornersoven. The best way to lift it up;do this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly

Preheat
coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
* Preheat
the oven at 400 degrees450 for 5 minutes, then bakeminutes. Put the board for 5-8 minutes, or tillin until the solder is molten

'''put
molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
* Put
the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''

Reinstall
in the printer after it has cooledcooling for a few hours and see8-12 hours. See if it works

'''clean
this fixed the oven up VERY GOOD when done'''problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works); '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again'''

Take
* Step 1: Remove the formatter board out of the printer by removingboard. It lives on the side panel withwhere the I/O

next, take a picture
is.
* Step 2: Take pictures
of how the cables went, then disconnect them

Remove
wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the 4 screws fromd model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.'''
* Remove
the formatter board that holdscrews and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in

If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as
in.
* Find
a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs onboard in the cornersoven. The best way to lift it up;do this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly

Preheat
coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
* '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!'''
* Preheat
the oven at 400 degrees450 for 5 minutes, then bakeminutes. Put the board for 5-8 minutes, or tillin until the solder is molten

'''put
molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!'''
* '''Clean the oven good after doing this.'''
* Put
the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''

Reinstall
in the printer after it has cooledcooling for a few hours and see8-12 hours. See if it works

'''clean
this fixed the oven up VERY GOOD when done'''problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.

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Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are NOTORIOUSknown for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problemproblem-so much so this is the 2nd question I have seen on the topic relating to bad formatter boards
These printers are NOTORIOUSknown for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problemproblem-so much so this is the 2nd question I have seen on the topic relating to bad formatter boards
 
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) works); '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again'''
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) works); '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again'''
 
Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O
 
next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them
 
Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in
 
If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly
 
Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten
 
'''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''
 
Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works
 
'''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done'''

Статус:

open

Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem
 
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) ; '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again'''
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) ; '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again'''
 
Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O
 
next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them
 
Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in
 
If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly
 
Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten
 
'''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''
 
Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works
 
'''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done'''

Статус:

open

Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem
 
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer(thislonger to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works)
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer(thislonger to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works)
 
Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O
 
next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them
 
Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in
 
If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly
 
Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten
 
'''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''
 
Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works
 
'''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done'''

Статус:

open

Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem
 
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works)
 
Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O
 
next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them
 
Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in
 
If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly
 
Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten
 
'''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''
 
Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works
 
'''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done'''

Статус:

open

Отредактировано: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem
 
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longerlonger(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works)
Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longerlonger(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works)
 
Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O
 
next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them
 
Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in
 
If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly
 
Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten
 
'''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''
 
Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works

Статус:

open

Оригинальный сообщение: Nick ,

Текст:

These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem

Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer

Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O

next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them

Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in

If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly

Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten

'''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit'''

Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works

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open