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Support for the third generation of Chrysler Town & Country spanning model years 1996-2000.

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Gauges stopped working on 1997 Chrysler Town and Country?

My speedometer, odometer, and gas gauge stopped working in my 1997 Town and Country minivan what would be wrong

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I have a 97 dodge caravan and my gauges wont work and horn and wipers wont work ive done the trip rest but nothing.put in a new horn relay and nothing what should i do wipers still dont work either

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Peggy Standring , try this. With the key off, hold the trip odometer reset button in, turn the key on, and in a few seconds the cluster should go into a self test mode. Let go of the button, and all of the lights should come on, and the gauges will cycle. If this doesn't work, try your dealer and they should do a manual reset with the scan tool. If that absolutely does not work, you could have a cold solder connection on the instrument cluster, which is apparently not uncommon. Check the Chrysler forums for that. Hope this helps, good luck.

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This seemed to work but for how long? Once my lights came on my check engine light came on as well. :(

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I have a huge questions so I done this the other day myself just to see and sure enough I didn't pass didn't get the 999 code I got 4 different codes 1,4,23,55 ??? Someone please guide me for when it fails the test I can't find any information on it except how to do it and that it suppose to be 999..helpp I know I'm not the only one going through all of this !! I been advised to consider a new tipm-totally intergraded power module I hope that's not the issue but sure does sound like it cuz she definitely has a mind of her own 🤣

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@heather1994 what model and year is your vehicle?

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Check your owners manual to locate the fuse boxes, and the location of the specific fuses. When I had that issue with a vehicle (97 Jeep) it was one of the tiny fuses located in the fuse box under the hood.

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Chrysler town and country computer After Battery replacement Blinking lights and Speedometer 120

The Calibration Test

blower on high, both air sliders on cold (blue), selector knob (mode) on "panel" (dashboard vents- make sure all open)

press rear wiper and wash for 5 seconds to begin diagnostic that should run with rear wiper and Intermittant blinking alternately.

should end with just rear wiper blinking. push rear wiper to exit.

The Diagnostic Cooldown test (necessary 2nd step)

Press WASH and A/C simultaneously for 5 Seconds (evaporator cannot already be cool = engine and cabin are warm)

AC / Recirc alternately flash - if flashing together test has failed

The steps to fix the blinking lights:

repower DC (battery replacement, jump, etc) (4 lights blink)

Calibration Test (runs several minutes leaves 2 lights (wiper/Int) blinking)

Diagnostic Cooldown Test (100 seconds)

Now Just rear wiper blinking :-)

Push Rear Wiper to exit and clear all blinking lights!

Speedometer 120

hold down trip/reset

turn ignition on (held until gas gage went to zero)

release buttons (gagues swing round and ultimately zero)

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What if recirculate and a.c. button blink together and rear wiper blinks alternate to them?

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But mine is a 97 dodge caravan 3.3 liter

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I had this problem, and I fixed it myself free by removing the instrument cluster, (not too hard), and the circuit board behind it had a bad solder ground connection which affected everything. The other alternative would have been to replace the circuit board.

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I just fixed two gauge sets that had this problem. The solder joints on the gauge board where the connector comes in crack and fail. This causes the gauges to operate intermittently.

The gauge set needs to be pulled out and then the circuit board removed (just screws), flip the board over and re-solder the connector pins on the board. Put it all back together and all will be well. The only problem might be finding a geek (like me) to solder it for you.

Note- don't buy a used gauge set, they are likely to have (or soon will) have the same problem. My uncle had done that, which is why I ended up fixing two sets.

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Ive had the same issue for three years now. The van has sat in front of my house not running. I'v been soldering for 35 years or more and tried the solder fix. Nothing. I tried pounding on the dash and one time it actually cranked and started. Ive been unable to get this van to crank. I purchased a used cluster from ebay with the same grey connector that said it was verified good. I tried it and nothing. I looked at the solder joints on the main connector and the upper right looked cracked. I re-soldered. Both do the same thins. No lights on the cluster. no PRD34 light, no trip mileage or odometer. The upper dash lights work. Oil, Check eng, etc. I get no horn, no head lights, no power door locks, no dome lights, no door buzzer, no key-less entry, no crank. I'll buy a new cluster if that's the problem. I just wish there was a way to test it to see if that is the issue for sure. any thoughts, anybody? I've always fixed my own cars and this is a first. Kicking my butt for 3+ years now.

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did you get a camshaft sensor warning code?

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Eric,

I don't think your problem resides in your instrument cluster. Your van should start whether you have it installed or not. I'd check the charge on my battery, my battery terminal connections, my fuses, and then the ignition switch itself. It's one or the other.. A bad cluster won't prevent your vehicle from starting.

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Hmm, I think your problem is not the instrument cluster. There are too many other things that are not working and I agree with checking fuses and such. I do know that if you are having problems with the gauges and it some times won't start (but cranks) or randomly shuts down, that it can be the cluster. On many other forums this is a well known problem. For the life of me I have no idea why the engine wouldn't run or shut down when the computer can't talk to the cluster but it is well known that it does. I am a programmer and I can't think of any reason why they would do that but it does. Maybe it's that they want to be sure the odometer reads corrcetly. Who knows.

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Eric. Oops, I jumped the gun. The milage is stored in the computer. The only reason that I can think of that they would shut down the engine is if the gauges aren't working then you have no idea what your speed is. Stupid but that is all I can think of. But, it is well known that these things will do that and won't run if the cluster isn't working. Again, I think you have a fuse or wiring problem. There too many other problems you are seeing for it to be the cluster.

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Eric. Start with the battery terminals change them out. I to have had issues with my dash gauges to where my van wouldn't start I googled what it could be and said that the circuit boards are common issues and to beat on the dash so I did and it started right up. Well it did it to me again yesterday took it all apart and still nothing van wouldn't start. Checked my battery connections and changed the positive it was bad car started up but gauges still are bad. So I'll be checking relays or changing circuit board .

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97 t/w ..no speedo fuel tach stuck in.5 mileage is lit up and shift indicators on and says D even when shifted out to any other gear

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2 separate problems here.

1) probably clock spring for all functions related to accessories like wipers. Chrysler has a lifetime warranty on certain Town and Country in this generation.

2) As for the dashboard, most likely the solder joint on the connector on the back of instrument cluster (ground) as previously mentioned by another poster.

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Another common cause of the instrument cluster not working properly is one or both of the ground(s). The older the car/van, the more likely you need to clean all connections. According to the diagram that I managed to get a copy of, the 13 pin connector that connects to the back of the instrument cluster has two pins (#7 and #13 that go to ground. The wires are Black/Light Green (# 7) and Black/Light Blue (#13). They both ground to the dash chassis, right hand side, behind the compartment that the cluster resides in. In my case, both the fuel and temperature gauges would sit at half way and none of the other gauges or LEDs worked. (BTW – it’s a 1996 T&C 3.8). One of the grounds is for the lights that light up the cluster via the dimmer switch. The other is for the total ground for the cluster. A good test is to hook an Ohm meter to the body chassis and then to both pins #13 and #7 and see if you have good connections. Even if that is not the root of the problem, going the extra mile to clean both connections is worth it and can often avoid future problems. Just my 2 cents worth. .

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