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Third generation of iPad with Wi-Fi, released on March 16, 2012. Model Number A1416. Repair requires heating and careful prying.

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Front panel or front panel assembly?

I have a cracked screen on an iPad 3. The screen itself is still responsive and there are no other real problems with the iPad.

I am looking to repair this myself and am wondering whether I can simply replace the front panel or whether I will need the full assembly.

Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks :-)

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Hi anthony !

The Assembly includes the iPad Home Button and clips. The only thing you may check is if your home button is still working. As it seems to be up, you shall only own the front panel alone.

Do not forget to own the required tools to replace it ( I'm thinking about this one : iOpener )

Hoping to have helped you !

Give us some feedback :)


iOpener Изображение




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Hi Vincent,

I will be purchasing the fix kit with the parts as this includes everything needed for the repair. From what you've said, I think I will only need the front panel as the home button is still working, just the digitizer itself is cracked from what I can see.

I'll let you know how the repair goes! Wish me luck.



(Formatting doesn't seem to be working)


Ok, I'll be waiting for it. May the force be with you !


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I'm not sure what you mean by "front panel" or "full assembly". All you really need is the front Digitizer. It does not need the LCD. They are two parts and they are not attached to each other. When you take them apart, you will need a heat gun. I have heard that a hair dryer will work but I doubt it. You also need a metal spudger tool to make the job easier. The ifixit sesame(e?) tool works best and I use it all the time. Be careful as you slowly pry off the old digitizer as it will crack and worse, accidentally break your lcd. Use caution, and be slow and deliberate in your task. Good luck.

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When buying the parts, there are 2 different options, one is just the digitizer and the other includes some other parts from the front panel. I was just using the names from the parts section of the ifixit site. From yours and Vincents reply, it seems as though I only need the front panel rather and the from panel assembly.

That's good advice regarding using caution as the last thing I want to do is crack the LCD below as well. I was planning on buying the fix kit with it which includes:


Set of 2 Plastic Opening Tools,

Set of 6 Guitar Picks,

Small Suction Cup,

Plastic Spudger,

Phillips Screwdriver and an

iFixit Tool Pouch. Do you think this will suffice or should I go for the ifixit sesame?


I guess since you're not doing it everyday, you don't need it, but breaking your iPad will cost you more. I recommend the sesame tool. If you do get it, I found that you can safe push the tool in until the /\ is under the glass. Heat it up in sections, maybe 6 inches at a time. Start on the bottom left corner of the iPad, work your way towards the home button. Then go back to the left corner and make your way up. At this point, you can GENTLY start lift the glass from the frame. The LCD has a foam that is attached to the LCD, probably a dust guard. Start breaking that seal as you lift the glass. Now, as you're lifting the glass, you'll probably notice the digitizer ribbon pull outwards. That's fine so go ahead and cut it. Once in the upper left corner, start going to the right to the camera. If you have the 3g/4g model, be extremely cautious of the black antennas. Plural! The antenna on the left is difficult to screw up as it has a "curve" to it so your tool easily slides over it. The right antenna likes to stick to the glass so watch for that one. Also be aware that there are thin bits of adhesive below the antennas. After you get done with the antennas, you need to deal with the WiFi antenna in the bottom right. This is pretty easy to handle but it likes to stick to the glass like one of the upper antennas. Just gently lift the glass and you'll see it. It's held down with three screws but tear any of the three connections and expect a weaker WiFi signal. After this, there should only be one side attached. Here is the easiest way I learned to do this part. I hold the iPad up at a 90 degree angle and apply a lot of heat to the upper half of the right side. I also apply heat to the lower half but concentrate most of it to the upper area. I slowly start pull the glass from the frame. Slowly so it doesn't shatter. If it does, then you'll need to scrap this side as well, just be careful as the magnetic sensor is located a little above the middle half of the right side. If you knick this by accident, then you'll have to replace the entire lock/volume/silent switch ribbon which is no fun. Once this is done, you'll need to lift up the LCD after removing the four screws. Little bits of black tape and plastic latches lock the ribbons. After you remove the LCD, I recommend you clean and repair the frame. Pliers will work. Also remove any bits of broken glass and old adhesive. Be so careful here as your hands can be unsteady. Try not to slip around the exposed electronics. Do the left side. Get some practice, then start the right. After this, attach the new digitizer and LCD. Before closing it up, turn on your iPad and make sure the touch input works. Slide your fingers left to right, edge to edge. If that checks out, then you need to gently push the new digitizer ribbon into its crevice. This part can be extremely difficult but it must be done with great care. In makes a backwards "s" as you push it in. Be sure all adhesive and inner screen shield is removed, then install the digitizer. I do corners first, then push from corners towards the center's. I know it's dainty, and I wish you the best, but it's worth it. A rank up for my typing efforts as well, thank you.


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Anthony будет вечно благодарен.
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