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Mid 2010 Model A1278 / 2.4 or 2.66 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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MacBook won't turn on

Last night I put down the lid of my MacBook and went to bed. After I got home from work I opened it and noticed that it wasn't turned on anymore. When I pushed the power button nothing happened. The battery however still charges and the indicator lights on the side also turn on. However they only turn on when the wall charger is connected. When disconnected the MacBook seems to be completely dead.

I opened the MacBook and tried turning it on by jumping the power button, but this didn't help either. I also tried it with an unplugged battery. Moreover I tried an SMC reset and all the quick fixes I found using Google. Nothing worked. I didn't have the right screw drivers on hand to remove the logic board, but from the side you can see just by opening it, there doesn't seem to be a burnt or overheated spot.

Any idea what the problem might be? I just texted a friend whom I lend my screw drivers, so tomorrow I should be able to remove the logic board and examine it. I would be very happy to have some ideas on what to do next to save my MacBook . It worked just fine, and I wasn't planning on getting a new one any time soon...

Thank you for suggestions!


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Just FYI for anyone who has a similar problem: The end of this matter eventually was a faulty component on the logic board as big as a pinhead. I had it fixed by an uncertified repair guy who charged less than 200 bucks. The machine still works to this day almost 5 years later.


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Don't just remove the logic board, unless you suspect liquid damage. If you did spill something on it even some time ago, this could be a cause. Your board could be damaged and/or your keyboard.

Instead, for now, start with a dumb one:

FIRST disconnect battery. Then remove RAM and unplug HDD cable from the board. Do not remove the HDD, no need for that. Use your nails or a plastic tool on that board, nothing metallic. Now press and hold power button for 15 seconds.

Then in reverse: reconnect HDD cable, reseat the RAM sticks, and finally plug the battery and try to turn the unit on.

What happens? If the laptop doesn't seem to turn on, do you see the fans spinning?

Also plug the charger. What lights to you see? Green THEN orange?

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Thank you for your quick answer!

Unfortunately that didn't help either. It is still completely dead, no fan spinning, no battery lights. When I plug in the charger the battery lights turn green and then turn off again.

I had a liquid damage 4 years ago in a small area around the display cable connector which was removed/cleaned and never caused any problems again. I never had any other incidents since which might have caused a liquid or any other damage.


Well at this point you can try to disconnect the battery, then disconnect the the display and the keyboard, then connect the charger and jumpstart the board by shorting the power pads. Find the ones relative to your model here.

If the computer starts (fan spin), turn off and disconnect charger and reconnect your display, try to jumpstart again. It should start as well. Next, turn off, disconnect charger, and reconnect your k/b and try again. The k/b is a more likely suspect suspect. If not, and that is more likely in my humble opinion, then you need schematics, board view, and a multimeter with fine probes to start testing your charging circuit. Or you can take it or mail it for repair after making sure the repair cost does not exceed the cost of a new (used/working) board. Those boards are now 6 years old and not expensive. It can be anything from the small magsafe adapter (the tiny board where you plug in your charger) which sometimes fails, to anything else on the board.


Disconnecting the display and keyboard also didn't do the trick. I guess I won't have another chance than testing it with a multimeter and/or remove the logic board and look for damages on the other side. Do you have a link for the schematics + board view?


Of course I do but I'd rather you find the 820-.... board number etched on the board, and search for it. If you find the fault and can't fix it though, or have someone fix it for you at less than the cost of a new-used board, don't bother.


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