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GE Refrigerator water dispenser not working

Ok, here's the history:

Both water and ice stopped working, I believe after I changed the filter, but not certain about that. Anyway, I changed the filter to a GE factory filter. No effect. I scheduled a GE Repair call. He came out, determined that it was a faulty Refrigerator Water Valve. I hit ebay, purchased and installed Refrigerator Water Valve for GE WR57X10091. No effect. I then replaced the water filter housing (that the filter screws into, has the two water lines - 1 goes into the water source from the wall, the other into the water valve).

Volia! Have ice, a blessed thing. But still no water from the dispenser. When I place a glass against the push valve to deliver water, I hear good flow noise, as though water is being sent through. Now, if I look under the wide deli drawer, which I removed, I see all that water pooling on the surface. I shopvac it out.

Now, when I was doing the water filter housing install, I also cleared the drain line behind the inside-fridge back panel, which was frozen, as there always was a pool of water under the deli drawer. I unplugged the refrigerator and used hot water repeatedly poured down the drain hole. That was cleared.

So, end result - no water and it appears it pours into the fridge under the drawer. Is a line still frozen? broken? How do I identify the line? Is it visible when I remove the back panel in the back of the unit? How to thaw, if frozen line?

Edit: Line appears to not be frozen, as I can blow through it using a straw as well as feed a weed cutter line completely up into it. So, perhaps a break somewhere?

Thanks for any help.

Отвечено! Посмотреть ответ У меня та же проблема

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Update: After taking out the shelves and dismantling the water tank reservoir in the rear, it was apparent that the lower tank had split and cracked, requiring replacement part WR17X12741 Asm Tank Water. I ordered it, should arrive next week. The part comes with 2 hard-wired water lines. Looks like one connects to the water valve, where does the other go to?

Question: why did it crack/split, because water froze inside? The cover to this unit looks like it has an imbedded defroster unit. Maybe that's on the fritz?

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My repairman said it is badly designed. Something about how the insulation is in the door. He fixed it. With a hair dryer and more. But then it froze up again. The water and ice maker only work once the freezer is turned off and warms up. Really irritating. Should have been a nationwide fix by GE.

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My fix was easy and cheap for frozen. I taped some insulated tile to the inside of the freezer door and the freezing stopped. Now I am having trouble with the water dispenser after changing the filter.

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my water dispenser isn't working. I changed the filter and now it's coming out of the bottom part of the inside of the refrigerator. Please help!! GE profile

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Here's all that i'm aware of:

Cause 1

Water Tube in Door is Frozen

To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.

Cause 2

Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 3

Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

Cause 4

Dispenser Control Board

The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.

Cause 5

Dispenser Switch

The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 6

Water Filter

A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the dispenser from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.

Cause 7

Door Switch

The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

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Where are these switches? Do I have to remove the front panel from the water and ice center?

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Denise Here's videos on the different parts: https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/...

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My GE Profile refrigerator has no water coming in through the dispenser. I disconnected the water line at the bottom of the fridge and I seem to get water coming out there - but it doesn’t come out of the dispenser. I tried using a heat gun in case the line was frozen, but it still doesn’t work.

Any suggestions?

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I love your troubleshooting! Good detail and outline of what it could be! For me...it was a 'slightly' frozen line. I did the filter bypass ('cause I just changed the filter and thought I had a bad one), then right to testing the water where it enters the door. No air-flow as you suggested. Then on to weed-wacker line to snake-it-out! Yep!, I had a slight blockage about 4 inches from the outlet. Thanks GE for a design that freezes...so annoying! Anyway, in 13 years, it was never a problem until THIS week so it's not too bad! THANKS Again Alan for your detailed troubleshooting outline - I couldn't do it without ya!...Tony

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My GE water dispenser stopped working and as it was still making ice (emptied ice tray to verify) and could hear solenoid when water button pushed.

I did not have any weed wacker line but I did have some 16ga stranded wire. I cut about ten inches or so, stripped about an 1/8 inch off one end and 3 inches off the other end. Ran it in the supply line and hit the ice. I untwisted the longer end and using a hair dryer on high heated the bare copper which transferred the heat up the wire to the shorter bare end. Let the wire sit for a few minutes then repeated and ice was gone.

Water dispenser froze up again and in the end it seemed to be related to placement of ice packs on the freezer door which caused my issues. I also got the little syringe to thaw the ice out but have not had any more problems after moving ice packs.

I did find in my research that care you be used with a hair dryer as it seems it’s possible to warp the plastic parts of the ice dispenser.

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I have the same problem. I've changed the water inlet valve, changed filter housing, tried weed Wacker line but no luck. Planning on looking at the water res next. All the dispenser switches have continuity.

Pretty frustrating

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Alan Niederland будет вечно благодарен.
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