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Repair guides and support for computer monitors produced by Samsung.

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I'm looking for the schematic for Samsung S27B970D monitor

I'm looking for the schematic for Samsung S27B970D monitor

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Ответ на этот вопрос У меня та же проблема

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I am not aware of any schematics available for these outside of Samsung itself. What is the problem? Perhaps a schematic is not really needed.

Please post as many details of the problem as possible along with pictures if that will help.

Thanks,

Dan

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The original problem was intermittently, the monitor would cycle thru a set of test patterns (Red, Blue, Green, Grey, White, Color Bars, etc). At first I thought my computer was infected because this happened soon after I click on some link someone sent me. But the problem persists even after I unplugged the video cable and it got worst. So I did some googling and find out that some panels will cycle thru test patterns if the video signal is missing. The B970's main board (where the video input connections are) is on the bottom of the base and there're one set of cables connecting the main board with the touch control panel (menu, brightness, etc) and two ribbon data cables connecting the main board and the panel routed thru the neck. The panel itself is height adjustable so I figured as the panel is raised or lowered, it must be putting some stress on the ribbon cable connections at the panel.

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So I figured this must have been the problem. So I played around with raising and lower the panel and also moving the panel around trying to get to the ribbon connections at the panel. The dumb thing I did was I was doing all this while the bottom of the base cover was removed and with the main board dangling freely. As I was messing with panel, the display as well as the touch control panel's back light got shut off all of a sudden. So I must have short out the main board some how.

There's a big power MOSFET on the main board that must be what switches on the power to the panel and the touch sensitive control panels. There's 14V at the Drain and 0V at the Gate and Source. The gate is connected to a DIP IC with no markings on it. I'm thinking the Gate is probably ultimately controlled by the main MCU because you don't want the panel to come on unless the main MCU is up and ready. So at this point, I think I'm screwed.

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Anyone want's buy a dead B970? The panel is probably still good. The screen is in good condition clean no markings.

But Samsung really screwed up the design for this B970. I mean who would design the ribbon cable to be moved around when the panel is raised and lowered? Bummer.

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You Wish post some pictures of your board etc. with yor question. that way we can see what you see Adding images to an existing question

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You Wish try connecting by another means . Can you connect with an hdmi cable or dvi or vga . Have you tried attaching it to a different computer . Have you tried static discharge . Unplug the monitor and drain any residual power by holding the power button down for 60 seconds . Then plug it back in and reboot the computer . Also try a hard reset . This is done by holding the power button down till the monitor shuts off continue holding till it powers back on . the whole cycle should take about a minute or slightly longer. Hope something here helps

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Thanks for chiming in.

The board has been unplugged for a few days now. Still no power.

There's only DVI, HDMI, and DP on this monitor. Initially, I tried DVI and HDMI and same problem. Test patterns flashing intermittently. I don't see how connecting different sources to different video inputs would help because if all the inputs are disconnecting, you should see a graphic indicating video input(s) are missing. As a matter of fact, Samsung calls this Self Test Mode: disconnect all inputs and if you see that graphic, then your monitor is working. On mind, if I disconnect all inputs, then that graphics shows up intermixing with the test patterns. So I think the video signal connection at the panel must be loose.

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When I said the video signal connection, I do not mean the HDMI cable, the DVI cable nor the DP cable. So the main board converts the DVI, HDMI, DP signals into the raw digital signals needed to drive the raw panel. There're two ribbon cables connecting between the main board and the raw panel behind the screen. One of the ribbon supplies power only and the other one supplies the raw digital signals for the panel. If power is applied to the panel but the digital signal is missing, then it will flash the test patterns. So the digital signal ribbon connection at the panel must be loose. Or the FPGA got fried.

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The reason it was sometimes working is it because the tiny spine like ribbon cables have been severed , I opened the neck after removing the monitor, I loosened the blocks from the board and slow lifted the cable up through the neck and found tens of cables all cut and hacked, this was after replacing the board at €135 and a new twin cable of € 120. Expensive, cheaper to buy a new monitor, I just love this design.

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Hey glad you solved your problem. I did managed to disconnect the panel from the neck back then, but I didn't go any further after I brought a replacement which was S32D850T. It has an AMVA panel so not too shabby. Still think PLS looks better though.

Maybe this weekend I will spend some time troubleshooting more.

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Since a repair is likely not an option, try replacing the main board. You can find one here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMSUNG-S27E510...

Its worth the $15 to try and fix this, I think.

Dan

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Sorry I guess I post in the wrong thread. This is for the S27B970D model. I couldn't find a thread for it so I just pick this Samsung thread to ask my questions.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find any boards for the S27B970D anywhere. Don't want to go to Samsung 'cause it will be stupid expensive.

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Are the ribbon cables soldered into the PCB'S, or do they have 'typical' 2-row header sockets that mate with opposite gender header pins like old IDE hard drive cables? If the latter, they are probably IDC type (insulation displacement connector). If they can be disconnected at both ends you can gently apply pressure to socket connectors in a flat-jawed vice.

Inspect any soldered cables, especially the movable ones, with magnification for broken connections.

If you can get the PCB(s) out, inspect solder with magnification. That will take a long time, but be patient. That is what is done if a replacement costs much more than your labor for repair, or is unavailable, or not practical for other reasons. You alone get to make the decision whether it's uneconomical or if investing time and fixing something possibly simple has value to you. It's worth the exercise if you see learning from the experience, even if unsuccessful, as having value.

I think either there was a latent solder defect, or maybe cable damage if you were moving it aggressively or beyond it's intended range or frequency of repositioning. Many adjustable items use flex wiring/harnesses that last the products lifetime.

If the problem developed during your actions, you >might< deserve partial credit, but it's more likely something is open-circuited than short-circuited.

Also, search for the board number rather than the model…it may lead you to documentation or an alternate source like a different model.

It often takes good eyes and inspection, rather than knowledge of how it works, to find simple problems. The tech with more experience may not be able to see as well, but can more quickly determine what's economical or not (from a corporate $ perspective).

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Before you start ‘surgery’, be organized…take notes, photos, even video, to help you reassemble successfully. Watch for pin 1 markers to avoid connector reversal, etc.

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Hi there, I have the exact problem and identical as pictures above for the same model monitor, I found after searching for 2 years a company called zandparts who ordered a new board for me and had it shipped to Ireland for €135 including vat and shipping. I installed it to find the was absolutely no difference in my problem. I am so disgusted, now I'm thinking it must be a cable issue because the screen would not be able to display the various colour types in perfect condition. I would also appreciate any help or knowledge and if anyone needs the name of the company from where I got my parts from then please just ask

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