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The Italian manufacturer Saeco manufactures manual, super-automatic and capsule espresso machines.

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What causes the lack of steam pressure of my espresso Saeco machine?

Hi, I have a 5 years Via Venezia that pours excellent espresso shots. I’ve been having a problem with my steam pressure since a month or two. Although I descaled the boiler with the Saeco formula several times, it seems there is a lack of pressure in the steam wand. I’m able to heat the milk after 2 minutes, but I can’t get a nice steam flow and I’m not able to make the milk swirl anymore (so the milk just stands there and gets heated). It feels like the steam jet is just not strong enough. Again, strong descaling did not improve. I confirm that in the past, descaling was always working. Now it does not improve my steaming. I’m now considering a problem with the heat sensor. Could it be that the water does not turn all into steam completely? Thanks!

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2 Ответов

This does sound like a thermostat failure. Does the light still come on after the steam switch is pressed, and some time is given for it to heat up? If not, again, this does sound like a thermostat failure. There are two thermostats on the top of the boiler. The steam thermostat should be the one closest to the pump. Check to see if the wires on top of it go to the steam switch to be sure.

Update (03/24/2019)

It sounds like your thermostat is functioning to a certain point, if the light is coming on. Your understanding of the thermostats is correct, they usually work, or don’t. But I have seen them slowly fail. When the upper limit is reached, the circuit “opens”, and the heating element stops heating the water. Some of the newer models have a reset button on top, but those either work, or don’t. The thermostat in your machine is probably simply failing. There are two, and it sounds like if the machine brews coffee normally, it might be the steam thermostat. You can also check the heating element for current leakage. This can happen if there is corrosion inside the boiler that wears through the coating on the element. Unplug the machine, and place one lead of a multimeter on the top of the heating element, and the other on the metal of the boiler. There should not be any continuity. If there is, you have current leakage due to corrosion inside. This can also cause less than optimal heating. Plus, it can trip your circuit breaker.

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Thank you for your response. I confirm that the steam light comes on approximately 1-2 minutes after the steam switch is pressed, which is as it always been since day one. I then open the valve and eject a bit of water for 2 seconds before I start to steam my milk (with only a 60-70% efficiency which is my problem). My understanding is that when I press the steam switch, the boiler starts heating the water to transform it into steam. Somehow I feel the water may not being all turned into steam (or less than it should be). But I’m not sure I understand what the thermostat input is and what output it gives to the boiler. Like what is the trigger for the steam thermostat to stop boiling the water? Can it be as simple as let’s say 120DegC (250 DegF)?


I also thought a thermostat is either Go or NoGo, that it could not be partially defective, as if it would command to stop boiling at a lower temperature point than designed. Do you confirm that? My goal is to pinpoint the problem and if the thermostat is Go, then I can dig for something else.


Looking forward to a reply :)

Derek.

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