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2.5 GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.1 GHz) with 3 MB shared L3 cache.

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MBP won't turn on

Hello.

I have a problem with my MacBook Pro 13” retina late 2012.

The system turned off with MagSafe cable plugged (battery was 100%) and I cannot bring it up again.

Tried to:

  • SMC and PRAM reset
  • Another cable
  • Disconnect the battery connector from the logic board and connect him again

Nothing works.

What confuses me: The light on the MagSafe is always Green. I just left the system for few days, so the battery can discharged a little bit. Plugged in the MagSafe cable and it goes directly to green.

Last checked the power cycles from the battery, there was about 2300.

Maybe it’s only the battery and this needs a replacement?

Thank you!

Sebastian

Update (01/20/2019)

Hi Guys,

Thank You for the answers.

My plan:

  1. Disconnect the battery from logic board
  2. Plug-in MagSafe cable while battery is disconnected
  3. Press power button. When he comes up, it’s a battery issue and I will replace it.

When the plan doesnt work, it’s maybe a keyboard or in worst case a logic board issue.

I already tried to connect an external keyboard and a display (HDMI) - forgot this in the list from my post, but it doesn’t work either.

Thank you and kind regards,

Sebastian

Update (01/21/2019)

Hi Guys,

Tried now the following from the last post.

  • Disconnect the battery connector from logic board
  • Tried with plugged in MagSafe cable to turn on — not working

The light from MagSafe was Amber during the test. So I tested SMC reset again. The light was going to Green and back to Amber.

But I still can’t turn on. I connected the battery again and try it again. Nothing worked.

Thank you!

Sebastian

Ответ на этот вопрос У меня та же проблема

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Your battery is only rated to 1000 cycles! Yes its time for a new battery MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Battery Replacement

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I ran mine beyond 1,000 cycles and it was fine. The issue is beyond 1,000 cycles is you start losing capacity quickly as soon as you hit 80%.

I think the way to handle it is someone with experience shouldn't fret running it past 1,000 (but you need to monitor the battery once in a while as well), but it's not something normal end users should push their luck on. I've always monitored the battery myself since I don't trust the BMS to diagnose the capacity. I'll make the call when it's dead.

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@nick - It all depends how deep you've discharged your battery each cycle! I've seen battery die at only 600 cycles, most don't get past 1000.

You did note he claims ~ 2300 cycles I doubt you ever got that far ;-}

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I never got 2k+ out of mine but I did push it past 1,000. I didn't hesitate since I do my own monitoring with tools that tell you. I charged it when the computer reported it was low or when it was close. I never changed the defaults either.

The issue with the BMS is it's too conservative. It will call a battery that can be pushed a little longer dead when you have time. Then again, the BMS tuning is more conservative to err on the side of caution.

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@nick - Bottom line time for a new battery here.

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Yep; I wouldn't try once you hit 2,000. That's just extreme and asking for trouble.

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(Quick disclaimer: I’m not experienced with this, but this is coming from personal experience).

First of all, I’d say that you’re definitely going to have to replace your battery. According to an official Apple Support website, the maximum cycles your model MacBook is around 1000, so regardless of whether the battery is the issue or not, I’d recommend swapping it anyways.

Here’s the link to the Apple article: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201585

In terms of getting your computer to turn on, I would recommend trying these two things, while having your computer plugged in to the MagSafe connector:

1: Try disconnecting the battery from the logic board, and then plugging in the computer and wait. If it powers on, then this might indicate some sort of keyboard issue, or more specifically a power button issue.

2: Try booting up the computer while hooked up to an external display. If that works, it would hint towards some kind of display issue.

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I would hold off doing this until the battery is replaced.

If he had a spare battery now he could carefully plug it in to double check things before taking the battery out.

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At this point you have proven you have two issues the first if your cycle count was correct is needing a new battery. You’ve also proven your systems logic board is gone as well. So you’ll need to think how to proceed. Replacing both will be expensive!

This still doesn’t cover the labor if someone where to do it.

I think you should visit your local Apple Store to see what they will charge under a flat fee repair.

MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2012-Early 2013) Battery Изображение

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MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2012-Early 2013) Battery

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MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2012) 2.9 GHz Logic Board Изображение

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MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2012) 2.9 GHz Logic Board

$349.99

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Hi Dan,

you wrote "You’ve also proven your systems logic board is gone as well. "

How you can verify that?

Its normal that the macbook also not go up, when battery is disconnected and power cable is connected?

So, i think a logic board replacement its not an option for me. Becuase it's really expensive for a 7 years old macbook. I checked some prices on ebay for a late 2012 retina. It's about 400-500 €

When I buy a new battery on iFixit, it's possible to give them back when it's not working?

Thank you!

Sebastian

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The fact you didn't even get a fan startup give me the clue that logic board is also likely bad.

I would still get the battery and carefully plug it in before taking your old one out to test things. Thats the only way in your case to test things without going into the schematics and a DVM testing lines. As far as retuning IFIXI will take it back if you find the battery didn't help.

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