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Repair guides and support for the 5th generation Honda Accord coupe, sedan, and wagon.

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CEL code 15 Honda Starts, but dies immediately

I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX 2.2L that dies immediately as I crank it. Everytime it stalls, I have to turn the car off to get it to start again. The check engine light revealed a code 15, which is ignition. I replaced the ignition coil, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and the ICM, or igniter. The car seemed to get better and I even drove it around for 45 minutes straight. But once I came to drive it again, it stalled on me in the middle of the road. I've heard main relay might cause the same problems, but why would it throw an ignition code? I thought maybe the whole distributor might be bad. The car has over 250xxx miles on it and the distributor could be stock. Is there anything else that could cause the cel 15 code to pop up? Please help. I've basically been throwing parts at it. This is my first Honda and I'm not familiar with their common issues.

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I checked the voltage yesterday using the frame as ground and got .10 volts. barely. I didnt know if I was doing it right because none of the other wires were getting voltage at all. If none of the wires are getting voltage, should I just change entire distributor or are the wires connected to a harness?

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A bad relay could be the cause but check these things first.

Check that all connections at distributor and all wires are good condition

When it shuts off and throws a code 15, check to see that you have battery voltage at the yellow wire by using your negative battery terminal as your ground, key needs to be in ON position, if no voltage check for open wire or bad connection, if you have battery voltage there check the other connection at the distributor using the same procedure as before, you should have 10 volts there.

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I checked the voltage yesterday using the frame as ground and got .10 volts. barely. I didnt know if I was doing it right because none of the other wires were getting voltage at all. If none of the wires are getting voltage, should I just change entire distributor or are the wires connected to a harness?

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If no current it could be a bad ignitor, I know you have replaced that but it might be worth checking to be sure you haven't got a bad one or that something is shorting it out when trying to start.

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