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The larger of Apple's MacBook Air laptops featuring dual microphones and 802.11ac Wi-Fi connectivity.

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Cheapest LCD screen separator/heater

Can I use a small cheap LCD separator/heater for iPhone to replace LCD matrix on my 13’’ MacBook Air?

Update (08/30/2019)

Looks like heat is not necessary at all to remove the bezel. It could be done with a cheap razor blade. But be careful with the camera cable in the left-bottom corner. The display did not get a single scratch after the removal of the bezel.

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Keep going… Maybe the display matrix could be removed similarly.

Update (09/01/2019)

I found out that adhesive tape on the right side of the matrix could be easily removed by simply pulling it out from the bottom to the top. The bottom side is detached by removing 5 screws on it. After that I inserted razor blade into the top end of the right side. 2 millimetres of the blade were between the matrix and the adhesive tape. The blade is flexible enough to dive into the narrow (1-2 mm) gap between the matrix and the aluminium case and then to make a 90 degrees turn to enter between the matrix and the adhesive on the aluminium body.

On making a turn at the top right corner, razor damaged the matrix. A very small piece of glass (0.5 mm x 0,5 mm) was detached from it and stayed attached to the aluminum body because of adhesive. Each matrix corner is made of a very thin glass. So the top left corner was damaged similarly when the razor blade made a turn.

The entire matrix was successfully detached without a single scratch on backlight sheets. But the matrix cannot be reused because of damaged corners.

After that I used cotton buds and acetone to remove remains of adhesive tape from the aluminium body.The outer parts first. Acetone from nail polish removal bottle acts like a hot air gun: adhesive become very soft and easy to remove. When I removed adhesive from the inner parts which are very close to the backlight sheets, I tried to remove excessive acetone from cotton bud. But one time I just forget to do so. Acetone leaked and penetrated free space between the 2 topmost backlight sheets. Now I have an ugly blot on the 2 topmost backlight sheets.

One could think that the need of buying an incomplete set of 4 backlight sheets makes the entire replacement too expensive. But In fact the price of an incomplete set of 4 backlight sheets from an old MacBook is identical to the price of the cheapest hot air gun which I did not buy. I also did not buy any other special equipment for detaching bezel or LCD matrix. So the overall price remains low.

Отвечено! Посмотреть ответ У меня та же проблема

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Take the time to review the two links I have in my answer on the next steps.


@danj I watched them all but I still cannot find out how to attach the backlight Sheet N2 which is connected to the electricity. Looks like it is attached by special adhesive which conducts electricity.

It was detached very easily. But how to attach it back without any subsequent problem - that is not clear to me.


Why did you take it out? It looks like your display was OK as well??


@danj I've made a bad mistake during cleaning. I used acetone for it. It leaked and damaged display sheets. I decided to replace them all with the new ones.


Sadly, you've dived deeper than I have. I've only replaced the LCD.


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The entire replacement has been successfully finished and now I know that neither hot air gun nor any other kind of heater should be used by amateurs for replacing LCD matrix. Heaters can speed up the process greatly but they are cost effective only for commercial use by professionals. If you want to replace just a single LCD - they are certainly waste of money. Cheap (used) razor blades should be used instead. It is much slower, but there is no risk of damaging backlight sheets. There is a small risk of cutting rubber frame (do not dive too deep!), but it still can be reused.

There are also some insights that I want to share:

I think that after removing the bezel and the old LCD matrix, one should also remove the LCD backlight sheets from the well immediately. Professionals do not do this. Because they are experienced in removing remains of glue and other debris from the well. But it is almost impossible for an amateur to remove debris from the well without besmirching backlight sheets.

Besmirching backlight sheets means that you will have to buy new ones. There are 2 options - used original sheets from eBay or new sheets from aliexpress. I ordered used sheets from eBay first. I received sheets with several small spots of old glue on it. They are garbage and cannot be reused. It was a mistake to buy on eBay. After that I ordered new sheets from aliexpress. They look not the same as original (the fragile sheet N2 is much thinner, the topmost sheet N5 has 4 protrusions on the both sides - left and right - just like sheet N4 and N3 have), but they work perfectly.

Removing and inserting backlight sheets is a very simple task. But you should be very careful with the sheet N4. It is much thicker than others and it is extremely fragile. Moreover, the topmost 2 mm of the top edge of it are invisible and are inside a small ditch of the topmost wall of the well. So if you try to remove the fragile sheet while the topmost edge is inside the ditch - you will certainly damage the sheet. The right technic is to detach the bottom edge first. After that the sheet should be slide out from the topmost ditch. Use the following guide to do it properly:


The fragile sheet should be place back-to-back to the bottom lamp. And a small amount of adhesive on the bottom surface near the edge should help to attach it on the right position.

The bottommost sheet N1 is a piece of special white paper with adhesive on the bottom edge. It should be detached very slowly because of the adhesive.

After removing 5 backlight sheets from the well entirely, cleaning become a very simple task that everyone can do perfectly. There are simply nothing to be damaged or to be besmirched. So one can use the most aggressive cheap and effective solvent - acetone - to clean the well. Acetone can be bought at any beauty shops. Ladies use it for cleaning fingernails.This solvent remove everything very quickly. I used cotton buds to apply it.

Attaching the electrical connectors of the new matrix is said to be a very hard task. Because everyone from youtube make this when the 5 backlight sheets remain in the well. They are too easy to be besmirched. But I performed this without 5 backlight sheets. So it become a very easy task that everyone can do. But be careful when attaching the backlight cable. It is very easy to attach it upside down. I recommend you to make a photo when detaching it from the old matrix. So you will know where is the right side. The right side has a white line from one edge to the other. This side should be visible when attaching.

After attaching the LCD, one should attach double sided adhesive for it. I used 2mm “3M 9448A” tape for this purpose. It is thin enough and strong enough for this purpurse.

After that, the 5 backlight sheets should be placed into the well. This operation should be performed very carefully. Do not touch any surface. It will be a nightmare to remove any kind of crap or even fingerprint from it. Using dust removal splays is dangerous because they will blow out all the sheets from the well easily. Using brush is very dangerous because it produces static electricity. The electricity will return all the crap back to its original position immediately after you remove it with your brush. I had to wash the crap out by water and then remove water by rag. This was a very hard job because I had to repeat it about 20 times to remove an accidentally attached crap from the sheet N2 completely.

After that you can switch on your MacBook with the new LCD matrix to ensure that there is no any crap on the backlight sheets or on the back surface of the matrix. If everything is ok - it is time to attach the matrix to the adhesive tape. Remove the protector film from the LCD and from the adhesive tape. The lcd should be attached very carefully. Do it very slowly. LCD has a small round dots on its top corners. Every dot should be placed precisely on the corresponding dot on the aluminium body. It is very easy to accidentally drop the LCD matrix and it will be immediately attached to the body on the wrong position. Maybe you should not remove protective film from the top edge and it should be removed later. Maybe one can place additional protectors to prevent accidental fall of the matrix.

One should attach the front bezel after attachment of the matrix. It is a very simple task. First of all you should clean the bezel with acetone. The aluminium body should be very carefully cleaned with ethanol or isopropanol (can be bought at any pharmacy shop) using cotton buds. It is necessary because small amounts of fat from your fingers make it impossible for adhesive to attach to the aluminium body. Make sure that ethanol is not going to leak down. You should use just a tiny amount of it. After that I used a square sheets of 3M F9473PC adhesive double-sided tape to attach the bezel. I attach the adhesive to the bezel. But the bottom side of the bezel was not covered by the adhesive tape. I attach the adhesive to the bottom side of the aluminium body instead. I also make a 1mm naked borders on the inner and the outer side of the bezel. The 1mm borders were not covered by the adhesive tape.

When I tried to buy a replacement LCD matrix I found out that it is very easy to buy cheap new LG matrix (LP133WP1 TJA7) or a cheap new BOE matrix. But it is impossible to buy a new Samsung matrix. Samsung is second-hand only on the market. So I decided to buy LP133WP1 TJA7.

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Misha Krasnorutsky  for as long as you get to heat it uniformly you should be okay with it. There is no reason why it should not work. Give it a try and let us know how it worked out.

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I will try it next month. There are still some things that I can't figure out. One of them is how to attach the matrix straight. As far as I know, I should first attach the metal bottom part to the matrix. I suppose there will be some special marks on the bottom edge. These marks will help me to attach the metal part to the right place.

The second thing is how to put the backlight components to the right position.

I suppose I can use a hot pan with recently prepared borscht instead of LCD heater. Because the water temperature cannot be higher than 100. And after a few minutes it will be about 80 celsium degrees. And then I simply put the pan on the LCD back side.


Misha Krasnorutsky not sure about the Borscht since I do prefer Perogies. Yes, you could use a pan if you have constant heat and can control it :-)Add some pictures of your setup etc. so that we can see what you see and that way we can all create a plan together.


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Unlike an iPhone or iPad you really can’t separate the cover glass from the LCD panel as the glass is part of the LCD its self. Review this Youtube vid MacBook Air 11-inch LCD Screen Take Apart note how thin the full panel is!

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I don't want to use vacuum to separate the screen. I want to use this cheap device only as a heater with temperature control. Such devices are usually smaller (7 inches) than MacBook Air LCD screens (11-13 inches) - but I hope I can still use them.


I suppose if I heat up the aluminium back part, nothing bad will happen to the other parts.


Sometimes you need to heed someones vast years of experience. I've been fixing systems for over 40 years.

While you may not have the correct tools force fitting a tool to do a job it's not able to do will more than likely fail. I think you'll have to give your way a try but don't expect it to succeed.


@danj This guy on the video


uses a heater plate at 80 celcium degrees.

He said (in Russian) that using heater plate is much easier because everything can be separated very easy.


Let's look at this from a physics point of view I have a metal rod which has mass. If I heat one end of the rod it will take a bit of time and a lot of heat for the heat to reach the other end of the rod and the entire rod would end up being heated. Let's say the glass attached to the other end of that rod and then the bezel. Wouldn't it be just easier and require less heat to just heat the bezel than all of the pieces in-between? Here only heating a small area and carefully lifting the bezel plate.

Don't forget you will damage the sheets that sit in the well of the lid. So you can't heat the lid that high to get the heat through the metal, glass and bezel. The person is struggling in your vid not in mine.


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Misha Krasnorutsky будет вечно благодарен.
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