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iMac Intel 27" EMC 2309 (Late 2009, Core 2 Duo 3.06 or 3.33 GHz) ID iMac10,1, EMC 2374 (Late 2009, Core i5 2.66 GHz or Core i7 2.8 GHz) ID iMac11,1

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iMac Intel 27" EMC2309 Core 2 Duo Questions.

Hi,

I have recently picked up one of these old beasts and want to do a bit of a project on it to see if I can get her going and if so how fast I can make the speeds.

This post will pose quite a few questions

So to begin I plug this Mac in and power it on and hear a few sounds and vibrating “brrr” kind’ve sound and can hear a few things spinning up. I don’t get a Chime and the screen remains black. The fans are quiet but do turn as I get cool air coming out when I put my hand at the top.

So if anybody could offer some trouble shooting steps about problem solving the boot I’d appreciate it.

I’ve heard of resetting the NVRAM, PRAM. I haven’t done these but I do plan to. I believe I have reset the SMC.

Since I have done research and have found that the logic board is potentially the reason I can’t get it to boot. I also realize that I cannot upgrade to the iSeries processor and to do this I must change the logic board to one of the newer A1312 boards. But first I must get it running to see what needs fixed and what doesn’t.

I have been doing quite a bit of research regarding an old mac I picked up and have discovered the only way of unlocking some more CPU power is to change the logic board to allow for Intel iSeries processors.

My question is has anyone actually successfully switched to one of the newer A1312 logic boards? If so was there any hiccups or quite severe drawbacks.

Secondly would I need to get a new GPU? or would the one out of my current EMC2309 iMac be compatible?

Same as the ram is it plug and play compatible also between the logic boards.

A good explanation of what isn’t compatible would be greatly appreciated. And any links to in depth guides on the process as I couldn’t find any.

Also, the logic board I’m looking at swapping with is from this model iMac Here

TL;DR : I have a 2009 27” A1312 iMac and it doesn’t start. I have reset the SMC and plan to do the NVRAM and PRAM. I need some steps about howto get it going as I’m familiar with Windows machines but not Apple machines but am eager to learn. If the logic board is broken I want to upgrade it to one of the later A1312 boards. First I must get it going.

Thanks,

Jacob

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Update (03/16/2020)

@danj Hi Dan! I’m back having replaced the logic board with the iSeries one you suggested and an Intel i7 processor. I got the parts really cheap as the guy who sold it said the CPU fan ran at full speed and it was given to him like that so he sold it for parts.

Where would I start troubleshooting for something like this? The CPU fan sensor is plugged in correctly and in MacFanControl it reads at 0rpm it will be silent for about 8 minutes then when the processor gets warm the fan will go at full speed.

Thanks,

Jacob

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I'm not sure if your better off here ;-{

Do you know how to read a schematic and boardview? Do you have a DVM with the needed smaller probes? Even still you'll likely need to replace a component or two so you'll need a good soldering iron and you may need a re-work staton.

Do you know someone local that can help you?

из

@danj hi dan, due to the COVID situation I’ve left the city and my apartment to go stay with my parents. Bonus!! My soldering gear is there so I’ll be able to fix this logic board. Where will I start?

из

I've explained as best I can in my answer. You'll need to get the needed logic board for your i7 CPU, and then if you are trying to fix your damaged board you'll need to get the connector. Unless you are skilled with soldering you could end up with bridged pins with solder.

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@danj I just had a thought, since I am planning to remove the ODD could I just reroute and maybe extend the CPU fan to plug into the ODD fan connector then use a piece of software like macs fan control and set the fan speed to be based on the sensor value of CPU Core 1 or 2?

Just a thought. Quite a work around but it seems possible to me

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I'm totally lost here??? Where are you going? I thought you have lined up a new logic board, didn't you?

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Jumping between major designs is not really doable. Apple alters too many things so the newer logic board won’t fit within the older system and many cables aren’t going to fit (length & signal). If you look carefully the location of the connectors on your board are all neatly on the top edge the newer boards have them scattered around.

But there is a glimmer of hope! This is a transitional series! The A1312 (EMC 2309) iMac10,1 is a Core 2 Duo and the A1312 (EMC 2374) iMac11,1 is an Intel I Series either an i5 2.66 GHz or an i7 2.8 GHz. That is the board I would go with to push this to the max.

27” EMC 2374 logic board Apple P/N 661-5428

The A1312 (EMC 2390) iMac11,3 was a major design change and won’t work in your system.

This board can support 16 GB of RAM with the correct SO-DIMMs and while it only has a SATA II (3.0 Gb/s) HD interface you can install a SATA II supported drive like a 2.5” Samsung 860 QVO.

Do consider the costs and the limitations this system has as well as the highest OS it can support is macOS High Sierra (10.13.x)

Update (03/11/2020)

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Here's a breakdown of the onboard diagnostic LED's:

LED 1 - Indicates that the trickle voltage from the power supply is detected by the main logic board. This LED will remain ON while the iMac is connected to the AC power. The LED will remain on even when the computer has been shut down or put to sleep. The LED will turn off only if the AC power is disconnected or the power supply is faulty.

LED 2 - Indicates that the main logic board has detected proper power from the power supply when the computer is turned on. This LED will be ON when the computer is turned on and the power supply is working correctly.

LED 3 - Indicates that the computer and the video card are communicating. This LED will be ON when the computer is communicating properly with the video card. If LEDs 1 and 2 are ON and you heard the startup sound, but LED 3 is OFF, then the video card might be installed incorrectly or need replacement.

LED 4 - Indicates that the computer and the LCD display panel are communicating. This LED will be ON when the computer is turned on and video signal is being generated. If the LED is ON and there is no image on the LCD display panel, the LCD display panel or inverter might be installed incorrectly or need replacement.

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Thank you for your reply that’s quite informative so if my logic board is dead I’ll pick one of those ones up.

My current board can support 16gb of RAM already. So it would be CPU limits that would push.

Would you be able to answer my question about the GPUs? Would the one from the current machine fit in the EMC2374?

Cheers,

Jacob

Later looked online and have seen that the board you suggested supports 32gb of RAM?

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More is better! Well, yes you could boost it to 32 GB of RAM. Most people won't benefit with this much RAM. Spend it on the SSD is what I would do.

Think of it this way... Eating lots of food is good, but you get fat which is then becomes unhealthy!

Having your system at its ideal RAM size given the expected use is what you need to consider. I just don't recommend going that high.

Your system really can't use it very effectively unless you are doing video or music production, but this system would burnout with that level of processing!

Writing, web surfing, DB and spreadsheet being your more dominant apps and then photo viewing, iTunes stuff and music streaming being your secondary tasks only needs 12 to 16 GB of RAM.

As far as your GPU board from your current system sure you can transfer it over if it's still working.

из

Thanks again Dan! Very true 16GB would be a limit to keep this machine going in terms of longevity.

Since my last reply I pulled the mac apart properly as I hadn't done so yet and figured out why I bought it so cheap lol.

Look at the attached pictures on the original thread. There is a picture of the front and the back of the display cable which appears to be broken at one side and a picture of the LED backlight cable which has been mangled pretty bad. I've priced both replacement cables and its surprisingly not bad!

I have also attached a picture of the display cable socket or where it used to be, this would indicate a logic board replacement is definitely needed correct?

Lastly I checked the LED indicators and LED #4 stays lit when the mac is plugged in but not turned on and when I switch it on it stays lit but also LED #3 comes on? This sounds like the behavior of LED #1 and #2 so maybe I have them mixed up. Anyway if you could aid with some explanation :)

Thanks,

Jacob

из

Wow! Someone had a bad day ;-{

Yes, the two cables will need replacing for sure. As far as the logic board connector: Getting the connector is possible and then its a matter of your skills with a soldering iron. carefully pull off the remaining pins making sure you don't loose any. Then using solder wick clean off all of the solder on the contacts and the two end plates (square pads) then tin the pads with fresh solder making sure the solder flows cleanly across the pads (using the proper flux) and then again wick off the solder when you are ready to mount the connector.

As far as the onboard diagnostics, I think you've read them backwards. I've updated my answer with the proper identification and breakdown

из

Okay well I don’t believe it’d be worth trying to fix as I plan to upgrade the iMac further anyway which means new logic board and processor!

So that’s the plan as of now, what else will I need to buy along with those two cables and the board. Is there anything from my current machine that will need to be replaced to be compatible? e.g PSU etc?

Thanks

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