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2.2 GHz (Turbo Boost up to 3.4 GHz), 2.5 GHz (Turbo Boost up to 3.7 GHz), or 2.8 GHz (Turbo Boost up to 4.0 GHz) quad-core Intel Core i7 processor with 6 MB shared L3 cache.

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How to handle mismatched S/N on bottom vs MLB?

I got this one super cheap, even knowing it will need a screen with every intention to replace it once I can get a screen or even a junker with an EFI lock for nothing but with an intact LCD. However, I noticed my bottom serial number does not match the MLB S/N and upper case - it’s had a board replacement (2.2 i7/16GB/Iris Pro 1536) but I cannot pull that S/N up on the Apple website, or Everymac.

When I do fix the screen, how do I go about getting the battery done? Of course I will not admit I replaced the screen, but it indeed feels like a 2015 (trackpad doesn’t click when turned off).

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Does the system boot up so you can get to the About this Mac? Thats the systems S/N not the logic board S/N which is different!

If you can't get it running right now what is the logic board board number 820-xxxx Then we can figure out the series.

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@danj Cracked screen and no SSD, so I cannot confirm in About This Mac as I do not have a MacOS installation on an external drive :(. So the uppercase and bottom S/N may indeed be the correct? My "public" S/N ends in G8WN. Shows as a Mid '15 there at least. At least they left me the SSD screw.

I hope if I mixed it up it's not just me. I only took it apart to check for dust and to reinsert the screws correctly to remove the evidence just in case I need to take it in.

MLB# is 820-00138-A. Not sure if this helps, but the part on the IO board is 820-5482-A.

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@nick - thats the I/O board number not your logic board. I'm nit sure I follow what you mean by public you mean the bottom covers S/N comes up as a 2015 model? Then thats what you have.

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@danj Yes, by public I mean the one in the bottom cover and uppercase.

I added the MLB# S/N. 820-00138-A

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@nick - Sorry missed it this validates what you have Mid 2015 15" MacBook Pro Retina DG A1398 based on the logic board number.

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Here’s the guide to replace the battery MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Battery Replacement and here’s what you’ll need MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015) Battery

As far as the display I hope you’re sitting down! Check out these Mid 2015 15” MacBook Pro Retina display assemblies

MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015) Battery Изображение

Продукт

MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2015) Battery

$109.99

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Tbh I knew what I was dealing with on screen cost. I didn't go in blind. I made sure to pay as little as I can knowing well ahead... Uh, yeah. Intact screen EFI locked '15 donor (or something with other major parts missing) will be the way to go. I want a unit that's going to need something major, but I can at least validate the screen is okay and has as little AG wear as possible.

I know you cannot use a 2014 panel on a 2015, or vice versa. I paid very little unlike what others pay for even a unit with a bad screen since I got mine from someone who wanted it gone. Figured if I cannot do it, I can put the board in a unit with a bad board and go that route if I can't find a used one with acceptable defects - already checked a Mac group to see if anyone is selling a 2015 LCD, and sadly no :/.

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@danj I got lucky on this unit - found a screen for $300. :-).

Screen resolved, but man that's insane. More reason to handle my 2014 with more respect then I may give to other machines!

For anyone outside of the States, I will give the caution what I did here with this one is possible due to the laws in the US - I can lie to a company like Apple about the screen and still not be "at risk" if this 2015 needs to be fixed under the battery recall. It's on them, not the owner of the machine.

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@nick - You don't need to lie Nick! If the system S/N is within the range they will repair it under the extending warranty (battery here) if you are the original owner or not! I've done that a few times for my customers!

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@danj I assume acquired like mine, but intact? By lie, I meant deny replacing the screen.

I did check the S/N I currently am assuming is correct (need to verify for sure) and it's clear, so there's a chance I don't need to worry about the battery.

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@nick - Still don't need to ;-} They are not going to ask you and you surely don't need to volunteer anything either. If they do ask, just tell them the truth the display was broken and needed to be replaced.

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Nick будет вечно благодарен.
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