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Repair and disassembly guides and support for dish washing appliances.

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Siemens Dishwasher circulation pump doesn’t start

Hi ….I’m new to this site but would welcome any suggestions as to what’s wrong with our dishwasher. Originally noticed that the contents weren’t being washed and the dishwasher tablet had ejected but had just run down the door. I’m reluctant to throw this in to land fill but I’m struggling to understand what is wrong with it.

I’ve taken the covers off and watched what’s going on when I switch it on. Looking at the pressure chamber?…. The clear plastic tubes where the inlet and outlet pipes are connected. The machine starts to fill and I can see the water filling the chamber. This goes on for about 2 minutes and then the drain pump kicks in for a few seconds and then stops. The inlet valve opens again and starts filling for a few seconds and the the drain pump comes on again for a few seconds. This seems to carry on until the program finishes. If I open the door, the water has filled the bottom of the chamber but at no point does the circulation pump start. I puta DVM across the motor terminals but I never get 240v across them. I’m guessing the control panel should trigger the circulation pump but I don’t know what it is that would trigger the pump to come on.

initially I thought the pump must be defective (which it may be) but the pump never seems to get 240v applied to it. Just for fun, I thought I would check the continuity of the motor windings. Having disconnected the terminals, I can’t get any reading across the windings. The terminals are labelled 1, 4, 2, 3. The windings are across terminals 1 and 3 and appear to be open circuit. There’s about 60 ohms between 1 and 4. I took the motor out and applied 240v to the windings and the start capacitor. The motor didn’t start but it did make a humming noise suggesting that the windings are connected but just not able to start the motor.

now I’m confused. 1….Having no continuity between the windings I would assume it was dead but then why does it hum when I apply 240v to it. 2….why does 240v never get applied to the circulation pump when the appliance is turned on?

has anyone else experienced this? I would appreciate any help as what else I could check? The dishwasher model is a Siemens SE64M359GB.

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Sorry…..the motor windings are across terminals 4 and 3, not 1 and 3 as I stated above.

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Under normal working mode, the circulation pump would come on within about 15 or 20 seconds of closing the door. You could hear the water washing around as the spinners moved but that’s clearly not happening now.

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Hi @harry_boy ,

Just wondering if there is a problem with the flowmeter

This detects the water flowing into the dishwasher. It has a reed switch the sends pulses to the control board and as it ages either the switch fails or it sends incorrect signals.

I had this with my Bosch dishwasher and the machine kept filling and draining without starting to wash.

I assume that there is a safety switch that prevents the water from overflowing by turning off the inlet valve and then perhaps it is drained as well. I don't know.

All I do know is that replacing the flowmeter fixed it.

If you place a meter across the switch leads you should see pulses as the water is filling.

I don't know where it is located in your model as I couldn't find a parts diagram for the machine but in mine it was on the left side. I could remove the left side outside cover to get to it.

Worth a look maybe.

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Hi @jayeff...... Thanks for your comments. Having read a few more forums, I'd come to the same conclusion that it might be something to do with the flow sensor. The Siemens flow sensor is on the left as well. I suspect the Siemens and Bosch machines are exactly the same just with a different badge on it.

I took the sensor out and couldn't get any reading across the terminals, not even when blowing in to the sensor to make the impeller turn. I then removed the board from the sensor ( just pulls out of the housing ) and put a big magnet across it and that appeared to work, so I put it back in the housing and blew through the pipe again and sure enough, I could then see it pulsing the meter as it spins round. Reassembled everything and hey presto, it all works fine now. I've ordered a new sensor anyway as it's only £18 but that does appear to be the problem.

If anyone else is interested, you can buy just the reed switch board on ebay for £10, PN 61867 03. As I don't know which is the underlying cause of the issue, I'm going to replace the whole thing.

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Hi @harry_boy

Glad that you got it fixed.

Did you check the board where it it plugs into the housing?

Just wondering since it is a plug in type board whether the act of unplugging/plugging may have cleaned the terminals in case there was any corrosion etc.

With mine the reed switch was faulty in that even though visually it seem to close when operated by a magnet, there was no continuity between the two switch contacts when they seem to be closed.

Thanks for the feedback.

Cheers

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Think mine was definitely the reed switch. There are 2 holes in the housing where you can probe the lans to the reed switch. When I put the meter across them and blew through the impeller, there was no pulsing at all. As soon as I passed a strong magnet over the reed switch and then blew through the impeller, it started pulsing as it should do. However, I couldn't be sure that the magnet in the housing wasn't losing it's strength or faulty in some way so I just changed the lot. It's been working fine since.

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