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The Nintendo 3DS XL 2015, marketed as the New Nintendo 3DS XL, was released October 11, 2014 in Japan and February 13, 2015 in North America.

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New 3DS XL won't boot, has popping noise

I had this working on a previous repair before, the solution was plugging the cable for the top screen into the clamp on the motherboard the right way. Now, I go to replace the ribbon cable for the home button, and when I put the system back together, it brought me right back to where I started. I've tried replacing the motherboard, using a spare bottom screen to test the backlight cable, and inspected the speaker cable, the volume and 3D cables on the top screen and the cable for the top screen itself, nothing was damaged and everything was inserted correctly. Every time I look up the problem I stated in the title on Google, the results keep saying it's one of the ribbon cables in the top half of the system that's causing the issue. If anyone knows why this is happening and how to fix it, please let me know. Here are some pictures:

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Let me preface this by saying I hate working on 3DS devices. It is the worst! Especially and above all else the New Nintendo 3DS XL!

That being said, the behavior you're experiencing is commonly reported online as one of those ribbon cables, but that's largely a misconception. That pop is from the power management, and it will occur if any major component isn't managing power properly. This can be caused if it is not plugged in properly, but also if it is the wrong component all together.

For one example, are you aware that Nintendo 3DS XL screens and Nintendo New 3DS XL screens are the exact same physical dimensions, and you can put one in the other's console? In fact, the only difference visible at all is one of the two ribbon cables that plugs into the 3D switch board has 6 pins instead of 4. That's it. The only difference. It simply will not work when plugged in, however, and you will get that "pop" and failure every time.


I can see from your photo that you disassembled this in the "pop out the hinge and remove the entire top assembly" method instead of the "try and roll the cables and stuff them through the hole" method that is recommended on the official iFixit guide, which is good. Most of the damaged cables I see are from people trying to do it the iFixit way instead of the objectively superior remove the top shell way (iFixit should really change their guide, but I digress).

If you've inspected all of those cables and they are all good, I would carefully put it all back together. Then double check the home button cable and/or anything else you touched while you were in it this time. Try putting back the old home button cable and see if it works. I don't know that specific ribbon cable off the top of my head but I suppose it is visually identical or close to it to be the wrong cable that just looks the same.

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First off, thank you for responding. Second, that time I said all I had to do to get the system to work was plug in the ribbon cable for the top screen into the motherboard the right way, before I did that, the system at least booted into the bottom screen and I could even see the backlight on the top screen as well. I remember, even when the ribbon cables for the volume and 3D had a chunk missing from the connector, the system would still boot. All I did after fixing the system and putting it back together was take apart the bottom half one more time and replace the home button cable with a new one I got off eBay. After that, it stopped working again. Are you saying that my problem could be the cable for the home button is a faulty one?

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It could be a faulty cable, or just the wrong cable. When buying parts for this device, I find a lot of the vendors are just selling parts and do not know the difference between something like "new Nintendo 3DS XL Home Button" (lower case new, as in a new part that has never been used) and "New Nintendo 3DS XL Home Button (upper case New, as in for the device with New in the marketed name). Because of this confusion, many parts are listed incorrectly, even on some websites that are dedicated to Nintendo consoles.

This is partly Nintendo's fault for having such a bonkers naming convention, but also vendors should be more careful to be accurate with their item descriptions.

But yes, if you did have it working before trying to replace the home button cable, Okkam's Razor suggests check there first. Try again after putting it all back together, and if that doesn't work try again with the original part. If it works with the original part and not the new/New one, I think that suggests the culprit.

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Ok, so I just tried replacing the ribbon cable for the home button with the original one that came with my system and I still get the pop sound. I really don't know what else could be causing the problem. I will admit, I saw a very small tear in the speaker cable on the part that connects to the motherboard, but I remember even with the previous speaker cable I had, it was brand new, had no tears in it at all, and still the same result. What else can I try? Please let me know if there's anything else.

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An additional cable to check that many people overlook is the cable (well... 2 cables) that connect between the upper screen and 3D switch board. Those two little short cables are capable of being the culprit if not plugged correctly, and it is something that is often overlooked since they're not part of or connected to the motherboard.

Yes, a tiny tear in that speaker ribbon could also cause this. Perhaps a coincidental timing. I don't know, but I would recommend trying to change that out if the other one without the tear is available.

If all else fails... well, it probably is a motherboard fault and if you're not down with diagnosing and microsoldering if you are able to find the exact fault, replacing the motherboard is your only option, sorry.

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I actually bought a replacement motherboard, that was used, from eBay, but it was taken from a working system. And I still got the same result. How would I go about checking faults in a motherboard? I checked the fuses on the motherboard with a multimeter, and they were both fine. And from the pictures I sent you, specifically the one with those two ribbon cables you were talking about, do those cables look like they were plugged in right?

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bonjour,

regarder et vérifié toutes les nappes pour voir si vous avez pas oublier de refermer les petits truc qui tiens les nappes, car j'ai eu le même probléme ca me fessait un claque et avant de démonté je ne rencontrait pas ce probleme la,

puis j'ai revérifier et j'avais oublier de refermé le truc qui tiens la nappe du coup il y a pas le contact qui ce fait il est peut etre la votre probléme

cordialement

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