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Model A1419 / Late 2012 / 2.9 & 3.2 GHz Core i5 or 3.4 GHz Core i7 Processor, ID iMac13,2

Inconsistent 2 or 4 LED; sometimes Chimes; sometimes even works!

EMC 2546 with Fusion Drive. Was working fine, then...inconsistent problems.

Status: I've pizza wheeled apart the screen to see the LEDs. The only USB device connected is a basic Dell keyboard, known good.

Symptoms:

  • Always responds to power on button. Drive spins up, fans on every time.
  • Sometimes (perhaps 5 out of 10 attempts) powers on with 2 LEDs only. No chime, no backlight. USB non responsive on keyboard caps lock light.
  • Sometimes (perhaps 3 out of 10 attempts) powers on with 4 LEDs in sequence and evenly lit. Backlight comes on but no display, no chime. This happens most often when NO usb accessories are plugged in.
  • Sometimes (perhaps 1 out of 10 attempts) powers on with 4 LEDs in sequence and evenly lit. Chimes and backlight comes on. White screen. No further response; will sit on blank white screen for multiple minutes. This happens most often when NO usb accessories are plugged in. When plugging in a keyboard at the white screen, caps lock is unresponsive.
  • Sometimes (perhaps 1 out of 20 attempts) -- I get 4 LEDs and a chime with a white screen, but this chime will replay quietly and about half normal length (so perhaps half a second) in a loop every few seconds. This continues. This happens most often when NO usb accessories are plugged in.
  • Sometimes (perhaps 1 out of 20 attempts) -- everything works. Chimes, LEDs, boots and runs A-ok until the next power off or restart. No apparent issue whatsoever. This happens most often when NO usb accessories are plugged in.
  • When disconnecting the screen and powering up, 3 LEDs typically come on and fan spins up to high speed. No chime.

Tests:

  • Have attempted swapping with another USB keyboard.
  • Swapped power supply cable, used a different wall outlet.
  • Swapped known good single RAM stick in from another machine.
  • Disconnected (and reconnected) webcam.
  • Disconnected (and reconnected) SATA hard disk drive.
  • Reset PRAM (when I can get the keyboard to work with a 4 LED boot and before the typical white screen freeze) -- successful double chime.
  • Reset SMC, have left it to sit unpowered for a few days too.

I've inspected the logic board, screen, PSU, and and so on from the side accessible with the screen off. There is no obvious damage, liquid spill, burn/short markings, etc. Everything seems snug. I've disconnected and reconnected what I have access to on the facing side. I've also cleaned (99% iso) and inspected the USB ports.

The only thing I can do that seems to make any difference at all to the random start states is NOT plug in any USB accessories. I don't believe it's ever reached a white screen (much less booting properly) with any USB accessory plugged in since this issue began. Though, I do plug in keyboard/mouse without issue once it's booting properly (when that rarely happens).

Repair?

The inconsistent behavior but normal operation on the (rare) proper booting makes me think it's the PSU. But, the strange relationship with USB accessories makes me think it's the Logic Board. As I don't have a donor, I'll have to order one part or the other and would like to get it right on the first try if there's an obvious conclusion here. I've got a multimeter and basic skills to test voltage or resistance and can find a boardview if that's helpful.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I'd love to get this machine back up and running.

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Sadly, I’m suspecting the hidden Fusion Drive cache SSD on the back side of the logic board has failed. But before you press forward try to get your data off using an external bootable drive. Hopefully you can still gain enough access to full your stuff off. As soon as you break the Fusion Drive set (SATA HDD and the Blade SSD drive) you won’t have access to the data.

Follow this guide to remove the Blade SSD iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Blade SSD Replacement

Or you could replace the drive with a better Blade SSD at this point or just put the system back together and just replace the primary HDD with a SSD as the newer SSD drives are so much cheaper than what was available back in the day when this system was built. For many a single SSD drive setup is more than enough, or if you want better performance then a dual drive setup is better but you do need to manage your files to gain the full benefit of a dual drive setup.

In any case you will need to have an external bootable drive handle if you want to recover the use of the original HDD by wiping the drive down completely and then reformatting it.

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Thanks for the followup!

I didn't suspect the blade SSD because of the inconsistency, and, sometimes booting (and operating) without issue—to the extent that I actually already backed up data off the system. During that process, I pulled data off the SSD (which I'd already separated as an SSD/HDD independently previously) without issue.

I'm happy to test that it is indeed the SSD. Presumably I should be able to dissassemble the system, pull the blade SSD, and then consistently boot it without issue; correct? I understand I'll need to use an external drive to actually boot any software (I have a MacOS installer USB I can use).

If it inconsistently boots (sometimes 2 LEDs, sometimes 4 LEDs, sometimes no chime, etc -- as outlined above) with the blade SSD removed, presumably it's a different issue, correct?

Thanks for your thoughts.

из

@chrisynd - You will need to pull both drives to be sure as the system may still be thinking it has a Fusion Drive if you did indeed split it.


Apple altered the firmware in newer releases so the way we split a Fusion Drive set doesn’t work and messes up the IPL boot which is what you appear to be dealing with. Which is why one needs to wipe the HDD down completely removing the partitions or just throwing in a better drive.

из

I'll disconnect the 3.5" HDD, disassemble to get to the blade SSD and pull that, reassemble, connect a USB boot drive, and test. Hopefully it'll operate consistently at that point and we'll know what the issue is! Thanks, Dan. I should be able to followup today with a result.

из

@danj—following up:

Disconnected HDD, removed SSD. Partly reinstalled logic board, PSU, other connectors and screen. Visually, the SSD shows no signs of corrosion or shorting. Put in fresh CR2032, too.

Result seems to be about the same minus that obviously it never boots with no drive installed. That is to say that about half the time it'll power on to two LEDs with no screen power on, no chime but fan on. The other half the time it'll power on to all 4 LEDs in sequence, no chime, fan on, and a white screen. The white screen showed the no boot drive (circle with a slash) symbol only once in my tests. I made about 20 power on attempts.

This is roughly the same result as before. Additionally, if I plug in a known good external USB boot drive, it rarely reaches the white screen/4 LED combo (usually stuck at 2 LED). I didn't manage to get the perfect luck to have that external drive boot in my 20 or so attempts.

Point is, the issue persists.

I'm back to the Logic Board or PSU. Thoughts?

из

@chrisynd - I’m thinking logic board here. Sorry 😢

из

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Following up and per @danj recommendation... This was indeed the Logic Board. I wish I knew which element, specifically, was the issue...

That said, I swapped in a 2013 logic board (a minor upgrade over the 2012) with an appropriate CPU, 2013 wifi card, and a matching SSD without issue. System booted right up and has been running without issue for a day after several restarts and cold boots.

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