Is USI-339S00045 a Wi-Fi Bluetooth combo or where are the Bluetooth LE from the remote received

Where is the Bluetooth controller? My Apple TV 4th gen suddenly lost Wifi and Bluetooth connectivity. Thankfully I had an old white IR remote from an old iMac and can use it and Ethernet to stream material and still connect to the Internet.

Hi all,

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement board? My apple TV won’t turn on, I removed the board and I have 12v flowing to the board. When I then re-insert the board, the power supply drops dramatically, assuming there is a short to earth somewhere on the board.

Thanks

Looks like there is room for a second 32 GB Nand Flash.

It would be interesting to Ohm out the connection to the HDMI connector to see if it connects directly to the A8 CPU, or if it is possibly connecting to the 338S00057 chip. This would tell us if the A8 has HDMI built in, or if Apple is using a 2nd chip to create HDMI from some other signal like LVDS or Lightning serial.

Link to the flash datasheet is broken. I did a ton of Googling and could not find a link to the chip's detailed datasheet. Strangely, what SKHyinx calls a "databook" is just a list of part numbers with basic capacity and format specs and no other detailed information.

On the second picture showing the innards of the power supply, it looks like on the top left the bare screw delivers the power (you can see there's a PCB tracing coming off the cap to it) and the black screws are either for mounting or chassis return.

And looking at the heat sink, some of the posts appear to make contact with the metal rings around the through holes where they would line up, indicating the heat sink's use as a ground plane.

I have to admit, this is creative engineering.

Air is a fluid. Come on.

Yes, it looks like power goes through the silver screw at the top, and another screw that is hidden under the power supply clip? You can see on the circuit board where the screw has made physical contact.

You say "The redesigned power supply is rated at 12V at 0.917A. Compare that to the 3rd-gen Apple TV's main reactor, which pumped out 3.4V at 1.75A."

What you didn't say is: "The 3rd generation Apple TV consumed 5W of power, while the 4th generation consumes over twice as much at 11W."

The way you stated it sounds like maybe you were trying to spin it.

Where can I get a replacement power supply?

Are the power supply separated so I can connect 12 VDC to in instead Lv 230 VAC?

12V at 0.917A https://youtu.be/cao5UahhN6o

ATV does control the TV via HDMI-CEC, it uses this protocol to command power, input/source selection and volume control of any CEC enabled HDTV. If you have an older TV that doesn't support the HDMI-CEC protocol the ATV remote can uses infrared to control the TV volume.

Has anyone found where parts for the remote can be purchased? I need to replace the front face already.

Don’t pick apart from the top end of the remote as the instructions say. There are two dogs that click in and could be sheared off/ broken if you are not careful. Pick from the bottom end near the Lightning port. (like the pictures) (the worded instructions should reflect this)

Ifixit did you tear down the Sub-Assembly on the right hand side of the third picture in step 9 ?

Ying-yang sing? I can't see it...

How the heck do I get the ribbon cable back in? I had to take my controller apart because a button got stuck and it wouldn’t work at all. The buttons are working now but not the touch screen and I think it’s because I can’t seem to get the ribbon cable back in. Help!

Would love some more details on the microphones! I’ve removed one myself (I think), but would love some detailed instructions on how to neuter Siri :)

I managed to get the ribbon cable back in as follows: first, make sure the locking clasp is raised (Open). Next, locate a pair of thin tweezers; I used my wife’s eyebrow tweezers. Hold the upper surface so the ribbon end is lined up with the connector; note that the cable slides into the connector on the opposite side of the connector from the locking clasp. Then grasp the cable with the tweezers and force it into the connector. When it’s properly seated it will have moved about 2 millimetres in. Then, without moving anything, slide a spudger (although anything flat and broad will do, I’ve also done this once with the end of a butter knife) in and close the clasp. Finally move the two pieces apart to test that the connector has seated and locked.

My kid got a couple of the top buttons sticky, and after multiple rounds of cleaning as best I could around the buttons, nothing’s working. Still sticky.

After tearing down the remote carefully, as instructed above, are there any issues with glue missing, after putting everything back together? Did you have to replace the glue? Or is it not really necessary?

I’m actually sending this unit off to my mom, who’s a jeweler, so she’s used to working with small stuff. Just want to have some good information on the best way to break it down, clean it, and put it back together. I’m guessing high-percentage (91%+) isopropyl alcohol is the best way?

Thanks!

Everything works on my Siri Remote, except it stopped recognizing swiping motions on the touch pad last week. Clicking works. Since it was 10 days out of warranty AppleCare said to buy a new one for $59!

Anyone repaired this problem before? Where can I get the part?

Only a gyro is very unlikely, where is the accelerometer? Who can find it? Seems that INVN accel+gyro is not in it

Is there an IR LED? If so, does anyone know the frequency output?

That DSP is TMS320C5545.

Notice how lightning port is fully connected. Not just for charging. This, I think will allow future firmware updates.

My battery has died, just after the warranty expired. What are my chances of a replacement?

Your video doesn’t show how to put the remote back together. Every time I try to click it back together the track pad no longer clicks. Please help.