Введение
This guide will show you how to perform small maintenance techniques on your vehicle that will prolong the life of the vehicle and keep it running in tip-top shape. These include:
- Removing battery corrosion
- Checking and refilling power steering, window washer, radiator, and brake fluid
- Checking and refilling the engine oil
- Checking and adjusting the tire pressure.
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Pull on the hood release lever just inside the driver-side door to pop the hood.
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Locate the hood release latch under the hood. Use one hand to press up on the latch while you lift the hood.
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Insert the hood prop rod into the hole in the hood marked with an arrow.
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Locate the battery on the left side of the engine bay.
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If your battery has a cover on it, remove it and set it aside.
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Look for corrosion on the battery terminals. Corrosion can be either white, grey, or blue and will generally be quite noticeable.
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Using a 10mm hex wrench, loosen the nut on the screw holding the negative terminal in place.
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If the corrosion is preventing you from accessing the nut, use the other (open) end of the wrench or a wire brush to scrape some of the corrosion away.
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Pull the negative battery cable off of the negative lead.
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Scrape the corrosion off of the battery terminal using a wire battery brush or some other scraping/brushing tool.
Just a note. On step 4 it says "Although the corrosion is not bad for the vehicle". That bluish white stuff is powdered Hydrochloric acid, its pretty terrible for your car. A better way of cleaning it off is liberal use of baking soda to neutralize the acid and make sure you wash ALL of it off when you're done.
Also that corrosion is a pretty good indicator of needing a new battery.
Fair enough -- I modified the step a bit so that we're not explicitly saying it's fine to sprinkle it all over the car :)
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Re-seat the cable on the negative battery terminal.
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Tighten the nut on the battery clamp.
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Open a packet of battery terminal protector, and, using your finger, coat the (now assembled) battery terminal in a thin layer. Be sure to cover the outside of both the lead and post, but not to allow any protector between the post and lead.
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Twist the radiator cap counterclockwise and remove it from the radiator.
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Fill the radiator with water until you can see the level of water rising in the radiator opening.
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Replace the cap on the radiator.
You should only be adding pure water if the situation is absolutely dire. If you live in a colder climate and that water in your radiator freezes, your vehicle will be inoperable and you will be looking at a thousand dollars in repair, at least, if not a total loss.
People in warmer climates, where it never hits freezing, often think they can just add water; however, anti-freeze is still preferable, as water will potentially cause rust buildup inside your engine components.
It is very difficult to conceive of a situation in which someone would be unable to go to the store and buy antifreeze.
If you've purchased a used vehicle and you're unsure if it has the correct anti-freeze/water ratio, there are inexpensive tools (approx. $12) you can buy at the parts store which will tell you if its in the correct ratio or not.
Typically a 1:1 ratio, or 50/50, is recommended.
Finally, keep in mind that modern cars often use a specific anti-freeze blend. Almost all cars from before the 90s just use the green stuff.
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Unscrew the cap from the radiator overflow reservoir located to the left of the radiator, in front of the battery.
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Fill the reservoir with water until the water level is just below the "max" fill line marked on the left side.
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Replace the cap on the reservoir.
I wanted to ask if I was losing coolant through my overflow tank cap as I drove. Would that kill my engine?
If you lose enough coolant and the engine overheats to the point of failure, usually it will be a total loss on the engine.
However, I've never heard of anyone loosing coolant through the overflow cap.
Rotted hoses or hard pipes, sometimes the water pump (which actually pumps the antifreeze, not water), and a few other locations are the usual suspects for coolant loss.
If you have a blown head gasket, the coolant will mix with the oil and you can slowly lose coolant that way. This problem is usually very easy to diagnose, however.
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Locate the power steering reservoir near the front right corner of the engine bay.
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If the fluid level is below the "Lower Level" fill line, remove the cap and refill the reservoir with power steering fluid.
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Locate the dipstick on the right side of the engine.
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Remove the dipstick from its housing and wipe it off with a rag.
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Re-insert the dipstick, and then remove it. This will give an accurate reading for the level of oil in the engine.
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Twist the oil filler cap counterclockwise, and remove it from the top of the engine.
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Using a funnel, pour one quart of manufacturer specified oil into the engine.
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Remove the dipstick and check the oil level.
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If the oil level is still low, add more oil.
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When the oil has reached the proper level, replace the dipstick and oil filler cap.
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Locate the window washer fluid reservoir in the front right corner of the engine bay.
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If the fluid level appears to be low, refill the reservoir with window washer fluid.
Don't use pure water if you live a cold climate, or it will freeze in the winter and blow out the bottom of the wiper fluid reservoir, or possibly do worse things.
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Locate the brake fluid reservoir at the rear right corner of the engine bay.
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If necessary, unscrew the cap and refill the brake fluid reservoir.
what is this rod you have attached on your front strut mount? I don't think that is standard?
Hey Abhishek,
You're right -- that's not a stock part that comes with the car. That's an Eibach strut bar that I purchased for my car a long, long time ago. It doesn't seem to be sold anymore, as I can't really find any more info about it.
Thanks, did you notice a significant difference with it? Great tutorial by the way!
Never refill the brake reservoir. If it is low it is an indication that you may need brakes or have a leaking brake system. When your brakes get repaired and the caliper is pushed back in its housing brake fluid will spill out from the reservoir.
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Unscrew the valve stem cap from the valve stem on the tire.
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Using a handheld pressure gauge, check the pressure in the tires. The tires should be inflated to approximately 30 psi.
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Using an air compressor, re-inflate the tires to the desired air pressure.
Usually the recommended PSI range will be written on the side of the tire itself as well. This can be hard to see depending on how dirty the tire is.
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9 Комментариев
Forgot to put the new oil filter in the motor and skipped that and added oit the said done hope you didnt do my car....lol
These are all wonderful tips for car maintenance. Hopefully most people are aware of these tips .
HELP! I have. A 1998 Honda Accord EX, the light behind the instrument panel (where you set the clock and change mode for heat/ air) is not working. I cannot find a place to replace a bulb or anything like it?! PLEASE help and tell me how to CHANGE IT SO I have the illumination. I cannot see the clock to chage Modes.
Thank you,
Lost in the dark
Nice post i like your post.
These car maintenance tips are incredibly helpful! As a mechanics Christchurch, I strongly endorse the emphasis on regular oil changes, tire rotations, and brake inspections. Taking care of these essentials ensures optimal performance and extends the lifespan of your vehicle. Keep up the great work!
