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Введение

If the device doesn't charge or won't record audio, then the microphone and charging port may need to be replaced. These components are located on the daughterboard.

  1. Turn off the device.
    • Turn off the device.

    • Prepare an iOpener to heat the edges of the display and soften the adhesive underneath. Alternatively, you may use a heat gun or a hair dryer.

    • The surfaces near the speaker and microphone (top and bottom respectively) have larger adhesive sections. These areas may require slightly longer heat exposure. The display should be heated until it's slightly too hot to touch, for roughly two minutes.

    When reassembling, does the adhesive still hold the phone together when closed or do we need to apply more adhesive?

    Jess Haddow - Ответить

    Unfortunately also cracked my display on the way in. You have to go pretty deep under the top and bottom of the screen but BARELY in around the sides, especially the corners. If I had to do it over again, I would have either tried a playing card or put some type of depth limit/mark on my pick so I didn’t go more than a few millimeters in.

    Matthew Jastremski - Ответить

    Use plenty of heat here and take your time. Start from the top, then the sides. use a gentle prying motion with the picks but don’t go too deep.

    Richard Wood - Ответить

    It’s EXTREMELY easy to crack the screen. Just buy a new display module before fixing it. The old screen will be disposable.

    Buyi Yu - Ответить

    Don’t even waste your time with the iOpener. I went straight for the hair dryer and opening picks took 30 mins to get the screen off with no issues.

    eric duchene - Ответить

    If you haven’t purchased this kit yet then stop right here. The difficulty, as stated, is very difficult. This was my first attempted repair. I spent a good hour heating the adhesive and felt good about getting the display off. I even paused to boot the phone to make sure I didn’t damage the screen before flipping it over - it worked fine still! Then I went to pull the display from the top using the picks. Shattered the corner of the screen. $129 for a new screen. At this point, the Pixel 3 is $499. I bought a new phone. Just be prepared to break the screen. Many people mention it in the comments. I felt confident I could do it. I couldn’t.

    Michael Neil - Ответить

    do yourself a favor and purchase a replacement screen when you order a battery. it’s impossible to remove the screen without damaging it no matter how careful you are.

    Andrey Gerasenkov - Ответить

  2. In the following steps, you will separate the display panel by slicing though the adhesive bonding the display to the Pixel's chassis. For reference, the back of the display panel is shown at left. Note the narrow clearance between the side of the display unit and the OLED panel. Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.
    • In the following steps, you will separate the display panel by slicing though the adhesive bonding the display to the Pixel's chassis.

    • For reference, the back of the display panel is shown at left. Note the narrow clearance between the side of the display unit and the OLED panel.

    • Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

    • Use a suction handle to pull up on the display and create a slight gap between the display and the phone's chassis.

    • If your display is cracked, cover it with packing tape to help the suction cup adhere and prevent glass shards from popping loose.

    the glass will have to be extremely hot to do this, i was able to achieve it by setting the phone of the heated bed of a 3d printer and setting it to 110 C .

    alex chargeer - Ответить

  3. Insert an opening pick or a playing card into the gap between the chassis and the display assembly. Begin to slide the opening pick around the edge of the display, cutting through the adhesive that secures it. The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.
    • Insert an opening pick or a playing card into the gap between the chassis and the display assembly.

    • Begin to slide the opening pick around the edge of the display, cutting through the adhesive that secures it.

    • The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

    I needed a stronger tool than the provided guitar picks to actually get between the glass and the frame. Had to use a metal tool to get in there. Once I could get in, things went fairly smoothly.

    Only mistake after that was not getting a great seal on the glue when reassembling the phone so now the glass toward the bottom of the screen doesn’t completely stay in place. :(

    Steve Johnson - Ответить

    Dang! Metal is a scary choice, but I’m glad it worked out for the most part. That’s good to know. You could try re-heating the adhesive around the part of the screen that isn’t staying in place, and then putting the phone under a stack of books for an hour or so! That might get it to seal up completely.

    Taylor Dixon -

    I got the glass free by using plenty of heat, an x-acto knife to start the opening and playing cards under the glass to break the glue. I did not use the suction cup because it kept feeling like it would break the glass.

    Michael Hendricks - Ответить

    +1 to Michael Hendricks. I ended up putting mine in my toaster oven (which worked splendidly), and I did have to use an x-acto knife to get it started. After that, it was possible to continue using the picks, but DON’T EXPECT TO BE ABLE TO REUSE THE SAME DISPLAY. New displays are $35 on ebay. Just get a new one before you start the work or you’ll almost certainly be without a phone for a week.

    Kael Shipman - Ответить

    I was super careful based on all the comments to not even get close to touching the back of the screen. But when reassembled I get nothing but a vibration when turning the phone on.

    I used the suction cup, lotsa heat, started from the top and pried screen off towards the bottom just barely teasing the edges with a special pick that I had from previous battery replacements (special pick limits penetration). It seemed to come off unscathed. But the results say otherwise.

    GUNTIS CIRCENIS - Ответить

    Woof, like others have said, it’s incredibly easy to ruin the screen in this process. Kind of impossible to tell if you’re getting the adhesive or the screen with your tools.

    Definitely have a replacement if you really want to have a working phone after this step.

    Kris - Ответить

    I agree with what other have stated. I tried both the iOpener and a hair dryer but was never able to get the suction cup to pull the glass up at all. I saw other instructions that use a “Thin Metal Pry Tool” to get under the glass. I improvised with some very thin metal I found from some parts I have available and that is able to get under even without heating. You don’t use the metal to pry open at all, just to get under the glass enough to get some thin cards under to remove the seal. The picks are too thick for any of these steps it seems. Just sliding the picks under the glass as shown seemed to be enough bending that I saw some hairline cracks in the glass. But I also damaged the OLED in the process. So, as others have reported, I too ended up with a dead screen. Waiting for my new one to arrive soon.

    I think it would be good to show more information about how you expect this step to work as it doesn’t seem to work as shown here. Or, look up some of the other resources online that work better.

    William Buerger - Ответить

  4. Continue carefully separating the adhesive around the rest of the device. Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep. Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.
    • Continue carefully separating the adhesive around the rest of the device.

    • Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

    there should be two notes here - “while adhesive is still warm, REMOVE ALL OF IT or you would be fcked later.” additionally, “ensure you are not separating the OLED from the glass as this will somehow render the screen completely useless”

    Liz Zelnick - Ответить

    Agreed. I just removed the glass from the OLED display…oopss. I’m hosed.

    Joshua Brown - Ответить

    Removing the adhesive while it is warm is a great idea!

    Re: removing the glass from the OLED, as long as you aren’t inserting your opening pick deeper than Step 2 recommends, you should be safe from separating the glass and the display panel unless you are using a ton of heat, in which case you might be frying the display anyway!

    Taylor Dixon - Ответить

    I didn’t apply enough heat during this process and subsequently separated the digitizer from the glass, instead of the whole assembly from the case. I had 3/4 of the screen free from the case when I became impatient and just tried to muscle my way through the rest of the adhesive. It is important to stop and apply more heat during this process any time it starts feeling difficult to move the pick through the adhesive, otherwise you risk breaking the screen and having to get a whole new one.

    Britton Wickes - Ответить

    I got the glass off without cracking anything, but now that it’s back together it doesn’t seem to work. Could it have been damaged from the heat? It flickers green for an instant when plugging in to power or pressing the power button.

    Nicholas Cox - Ответить

    Any recommendations on adhesive when reinstalling? I see there is a pre-made adhesive for sale here for $5.99. Don’t know if 3m double-sided tape would work just as well, or what thickness to use. Any tips would be much appreciated.

    Phillip - Ответить

    Hey Phillip! I’d go with the pre-made adhesive to save yourself the headache of measurement, cutting, and having a whole roll of 3M tape you might not need. It would definitely work if that’s what you prefer though!

    Here’s a guide for applying the pre-made adhesive that you can follow, or just curb from if you use the 3M tape! Google Pixel Display Adhesive Installation

    Taylor Dixon - Ответить

  5. With the adhesive cut, slowly lift the display up from the top (the side with the speaker-grille cutout), carefully flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown. Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display. Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display.
    • With the adhesive cut, slowly lift the display up from the top (the side with the speaker-grille cutout), carefully flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown.

    • Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display.

    Ruined my Pixel following these instructions. Ribbon cable is at bottom (chin) of phone and not as shown in pictures. My advice take it somewhere and have them replace the battery, that way when they break it it’s their fault.

    John Simpson - Ответить

    I’m sorry the instructions weren’t clear, John! I’ve updated the guide to better illustrate where ribbon cable is and how to work around it.

    Taylor Dixon -

    And another note - I used the suction cup to lift the glass. Unfortunately the glass cracked at that point…bummer. I would update this to describe HOW to lift the glass. As in, LIGHTLY lift up with the suction cup while mostly lifting up on the guitar picks to help separate..

    Joshua Brown - Ответить

    DO NOT “flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown. “ unless you want to spend your day getting adhesive off the screen. Instead get the screw driver ready (step 7) before you start this step.

    eric duchene - Ответить

  6. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two black 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the display cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two black 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the display cable connector bracket.

    when removing the screen i have scratched the black square up the top left here. (right of the speaker)

    scratched down to the silver component below.

    i broke the screen while replacing my battery, will this brick my phone? or would a new screen still work?

    anarchy_in_oz - Ответить

    Hey anarchy, your phone should still be okay! Most of the midframe assembly (including the stuff you scratched up) is there to reduce signal interference and provide structure for the fragile screen, so you most likely didn’t do any bricking! If your cracked screen still functions, you can plug that back in and make sure everything is okay before you pull the trigger on a new one. Hope this helps!

    Taylor Dixon -

  7. Use tweezers to remove the bracket that holds the display connector in place.
    • Use tweezers to remove the bracket that holds the display connector in place.

    Using extreme care, another broken screen here. Instead of coming off together, the adhesive separated between the outer glass and the digitizer panel/screen. Both were damaged in the process. Waste of time and money.

    Chris Kahn - Ответить

    Yes, me too. I’d like advice as to how to vary the glue heating process for this to not occur. Does the heat need to be applied for longer so the deeper OLED panel releases without pulling from the glass?

    Joshua Brown - Ответить

  8. Use a spudger to pry up the display cable connector, freeing the display.

    (from other ifixit tutorial. Did not know this-and it is important!)

    To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    bgwong2476 - Ответить

  9. Remove the display.
    • Remove the display.

    • Some replacement displays do not come with an earpiece speaker grille. If your replacement screen doesn't have one, be sure to transfer the grille from your old display to the new one.

    • During reassembly, pause here to test the functionality of your new part and replace the display adhesive.

  10. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the nine 3.5 mm screws securing the midframe.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the nine 3.5 mm screws securing the midframe.

  11. The midframe is held tightly in place by five clips. To release these clips, apply inward pressure with an opening tool as shown in the steps below.
    • The midframe is held tightly in place by five clips. To release these clips, apply inward pressure with an opening tool as shown in the steps below.

    There’s also a clip at the top center (near the camera/ earpiece).

    When reassembling, snap the top clip in before you snap the sides. If you do the sides first, then you can’t snap the top in and will need to disassemble and try again.

    Mark Clementi - Ответить

    On the reassembly step, make sure that the little black wire on the right hand side of the phone is tucked away really well. It can prevent the clip on the bottom right from snapping into place.

    Casey Thimm - Ответить

    To add to Casey’s comment, the black wire needs to be routed along the gap between the battery and the back/left-hand edge of the rear casing.

    Roman Iwanczuk - Ответить

    I would keep a flat razor or an exact-o knife on hand when releasing the midframe from the clips. The tool provided by ifixit does not work well. Even the blue picks would work better.

    Ben Eisenberg - Ответить

  12. Wedge an opening pick into the notch that is located at the bottom right corner of the phone.
    • Wedge an opening pick into the notch that is located at the bottom right corner of the phone.

  13. Slide the opening pick up both sides of the device in the small space between the midframe and the rear case to release the clips holding it in place. Note that the clips are not released by sliding through them, but rather the inward pressure the opening pick creates as it enters the gap around them. If the clasps fail to come undone, try pushing the edge you're working on inward with your hand, or using a thicker tool like a spudger.
    • Slide the opening pick up both sides of the device in the small space between the midframe and the rear case to release the clips holding it in place.

    • Note that the clips are not released by sliding through them, but rather the inward pressure the opening pick creates as it enters the gap around them.

    • If the clasps fail to come undone, try pushing the edge you're working on inward with your hand, or using a thicker tool like a spudger.

    • Do not attempt to remove the midframe yet! There is still a fragile ribbon cable underneath connecting the earpiece speaker to the motherboard.

    when removing the mid frame i damaged a ribbon cable at the bottom left. will that prevent my phone from turning on?

    Bryce Thoreson - Ответить

    I had no luck using the spudger (too blunt) or the opening picks (too weak). I used a straight blade as shown at about 2:35 in this video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...

    Todd Koenig - Ответить

  14. Use a spudger to pry the earpiece speaker cable connector straight up, disconnecting it from the motherboard. Remove the mid-frame from the device.
    • Use a spudger to pry the earpiece speaker cable connector straight up, disconnecting it from the motherboard.

    • Remove the mid-frame from the device.

    • During reassembly, reattach the earpiece speaker cable and insert the top side of the midframe before you snap the clips back into place.

    Rather than remove the midframe, I just propped it up a bit more than 90 degrees from the phone onto a box, just so there’d be one less of these fumbly connectors to redo during reassembly.

    James Ludden - Ответить

  15. Use tweezers to lift up the silver strip  at the top of the daughterboard, and peel it back to expose the connector underneath. Use tweezers to lift up the silver strip  at the top of the daughterboard, and peel it back to expose the connector underneath.
    • Use tweezers to lift up the silver strip at the top of the daughterboard, and peel it back to expose the connector underneath.

  16. Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect ribbon cable from the daughterboard.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect ribbon cable from the daughterboard.

  17. The vibration motor is connected to the daughterboard with a small socket connector. To disconnect the cable, use tweezers to carefully pull the connector away from the socket by its cables. The connector should come out of the socket easily. If it does not, don't pull on the cables with force. Instead, use an opening tool to gently pry it out.
    • The vibration motor is connected to the daughterboard with a small socket connector.

    • To disconnect the cable, use tweezers to carefully pull the connector away from the socket by its cables.

    • The connector should come out of the socket easily. If it does not, don't pull on the cables with force. Instead, use an opening tool to gently pry it out.

    Step 16, and the reverse assembly, was the only thing that really threw me off. Especially after watching other videos. An arrow or an additional illustration would have been really helpful. I didn't understand that was a "turtle shell" sort of housing, and that you don't pluck the whole thing off like the other connections. For anyone else confused, you have to separate a microscopically thin wire cap from the rest of that housing, and slide it to the right side of the phone.

    Took me almost three hours of researching to figure out why I couldn't reconnect that piece!

    Aside from that one snafu, this tutorial was really helpful. I can finally recharge my Pixel's battery!

    Robyn Hovey - Ответить

    Hey Robyn! You’re right, this step was a little confusing. Sorry about that! I’ve updated the step, hopefully it's a little more clear now. Thank you for the feedback!

    Taylor Dixon -

    I managed to strip the cable with my tweezers and have now broken the cable I think. Lesson learnt, take it easy on the very thin cables.

    Jonathan Bush - Ответить

  18. Remove the silver 2.5 mm T5 screw holding the daughterboard in place.
    • Remove the silver 2.5 mm T5 screw holding the daughterboard in place.

    For me (Pixel XL) there is another screw in the top left!

    Gregory Ho - Ответить

  19. Using tweezers, lift the contact pads located to the left of the daughterboard.
    • Using tweezers, lift the contact pads located to the left of the daughterboard.

  20. Optionally, you can pause here to remove the interconnect cable from the motherboard to keep it out of the way during the rest of the daughterboard removal process. To do so, peel back the sticker on the motherboard side and use a spudger to lift the connector straight up. If you choose to remove this interconnect cable, ensure that it is reinstalled in the same orientation. The phone will not power on if the cable is installed upside down.
    • Optionally, you can pause here to remove the interconnect cable from the motherboard to keep it out of the way during the rest of the daughterboard removal process.

    • To do so, peel back the sticker on the motherboard side and use a spudger to lift the connector straight up.

    • If you choose to remove this interconnect cable, ensure that it is reinstalled in the same orientation. The phone will not power on if the cable is installed upside down.

  21. Using tweezers, lift the daughterboard up and flip it over onto the battery. Don't try to remove the daughterboard yet! There are still two coaxial cables connected to its underside.
    • Using tweezers, lift the daughterboard up and flip it over onto the battery.

    • Don't try to remove the daughterboard yet! There are still two coaxial cables connected to its underside.

  22. Use a spudger to pry up the black and white coaxial cables attached to underside of the daughterboard. Coaxial cable connectors and sockets are fragile. To avoid damaging the connectors, be sure to gently pry them straight off of the board. When reconnecting these cables, lay the daughterboard upside down on the battery and use tweezers to carefully position each connector over its socket on the board, then press it straight down until it snaps into place.
    • Use a spudger to pry up the black and white coaxial cables attached to underside of the daughterboard.

    • Coaxial cable connectors and sockets are fragile. To avoid damaging the connectors, be sure to gently pry them straight off of the board.

    • When reconnecting these cables, lay the daughterboard upside down on the battery and use tweezers to carefully position each connector over its socket on the board, then press it straight down until it snaps into place.

  23. Use tweezers to carefully pull each coax cable out of its retaining clip. Use tweezers to carefully pull each coax cable out of its retaining clip.
    • Use tweezers to carefully pull each coax cable out of its retaining clip.

  24. Remove the daughterboard from the device. If your replacement part does not come with a plastic barometric vent, use the edge of an opening tool to gently lift the vent off of the old daughterboard and transfer it to the new one.
    • Remove the daughterboard from the device.

    • If your replacement part does not come with a plastic barometric vent, use the edge of an opening tool to gently lift the vent off of the old daughterboard and transfer it to the new one.

    • You may need to use some adhesive or double-sided tape in order to attach the vent to the new part. If you do, be sure not to cover the vent hole on the bottom.

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

16 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Camaryn Chambers

Участник с: 26.04.2017

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Команда

Cal Poly, Team S23-G1, Livingston Spring 2017 Member of Cal Poly, Team S23-G1, Livingston Spring 2017

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-S17S23G1

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Автор 14 руководств

Hi, I’m looking to fix my google pixel, it has the common microphone problem where I can’t record any audio/ make calls on m device. Where can i purchase a replacement for the daughterboard? I really need to get it fixed. Thanks

timothy james - Ответить

That’s a lot of steps. I miss the days where you could just pop the back of the phone case off. :/

Phillip - Ответить

where can I look on the daughterboard if everything else seems to work except the speaker? and I don’t mean the earpiece speaker, the main speaker below. The problem appeared after I replaced the battery, so its most likely something I’ve done, I’ve retraced my steps but I don’t see any major issues.

Henry Scharf - Ответить

Hey Henry! The daughterboard connects to the speaker with two golden pins that rest on the contact pads that stick out to the right of the speaker. You can see them in this photo. I would recommend cleaning the pins and the pad with some isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. If that doesn’t fix the problem, check all the pins on both ends of the big interconnect cable and its corresponding sockets on the two boards—you may have accidentally bent one of them! If that’s the case and the bend is obvious, you can try to bend the offending pin back into place, or pick up a replacement cable. Hope this helps!

Taylor Dixon -

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