Введение
This is a guide for a Sony DualShock 4 PlayStation 4 Controller and can be used on any other companies’ controllers (Scuf or Custom Controllers).
This procedure will help fix an R3 or L3 button on a controller that is not working properly or is having issues when trying to move.
Take care during this whole operation as these are very small and sensitive parts, but be very careful in Steps 1 and 2 to not damage any wires that connect the controller and the battery, as well as while reassembling.
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Remove the four screws from the back of your controller using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
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Separate the front and the back of the controller.
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Unplug the ribbon cable to disconnect the Micro-USB Type B port from the controller itself.
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Remove the single screw from the black plate covering the motherboard using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
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Remove the black plate from the controller.
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Disconnect the ribbon cable that connects the back of the controller to the motherboard.
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Remove the motherboard from the back of the controller.
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Use a spudger to pry open the toggle stick sensor.
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Use a cotton swab with a little bit of rubbing alcohol to remove the grease and build-up from the sensor.
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To reassemble the controller, place the back cover onto the motherboard.
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Slip the red wire through the controller cover and plug it in.
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Plug the battery back in and put it in its place.
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Plug the white wire back into the motherboard.
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Connect the front cover and the back cover of the controller and screw the four screws back in.
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43 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.
Команда
York University, Team S13-G3, Allen Summer 2021 Участник York University, Team S13-G3, Allen Summer 2021
YORK-ALLEN-SU21S13G3
1 член
Автор 7 руководств
5 Комментариев
Thank you for this!! So many great pictures!! :D
The drift for me also prevented or interrupted movement with the left analog stick. Menus would continue to scroll after i scrolled them or wouldn’t move my character on screen.
Nach Wechsel der Potis hatte mein Controller Drift an beiden Achsen. Das liegt daran, dass die Potis nicht 100% mit denen der Werkskalibrierten übereinstimmen. Eine nachträgliche Kalibrierung ist leider nicht so einfach möglich, da die Korrekturdaten im EEPROM des Controllers gespeichert sind. Deshalb habe ich parallel zu den Potis je einen 2MOhm Poti gelötet, mit denen der Spannungsoffset kompensiert werden kann. Ergebnis: Keine Drift mehr. Die Controller arbeiten wieder einwandfrei.
Great walkthrough and high-res images makes the job a lot smoother. Only remark I have are three things: 1) There are four clips that are hard to see on the images, and aren’t detailed; they are on the top right and left, under the “SHARE” and “OPTIONS” buttons, as well as the two clips on either side of the docking port. These easily break, although I avoided that. 2) The sensor housing have very fragile clips which easily break after a repair or two. DO NOT USE FORCE ON THESE! If you’re in doubt, just try and blow some air into them. Some remaining dirt is better than a broken stick. I also avoided this thanks to a comment on the step, but I’ve heard many has broken their sensors doing this. 3) The USB connector isn’t labeled as a pull-out connector. This isn’t much of an issue, but in sub-par lit environments, it looks like a clip connector. Have some friends ruining their USB ports due to ripping the connector off the PCB, thinking it’s a clip connector.
tidak membantu sama sekali seperti padi yang terbanjiri dan tidak bisa di proses untuk menjadi nasi lalu di nikmati
