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Введение

Learn how to upgrade or replace the memory in your 2018 Mac mini with this RAM replacement guide. The mini can support up to 64 GB of RAM, using any combination of 8 GB, 16 GB, or 32 GB DDR4-2666 SODIMM RAM modules.

Video Overview

  1. Power off and unplug your Mac mini before you begin.
    • Power off and unplug your Mac mini before you begin.

    • Use an opening tool to pry the bottom cover up off of the Mac mini.

  2. Lift and remove the bottom cover. To reinstall the cover:
    • Lift and remove the bottom cover.

    • To reinstall the cover:

    • Align it carefully so that the words "Mac mini" can be read when the ports are facing you.

    • Then, press down on the cover to snap its three hidden clips into place.

    My antenna plate seems to have TR7 Torx security screws

    DougPA - Ответить

    • Remove six TR6 Torx security screws securing the antenna plate, of the following lengths:

    • Three 4.1 mm screws

    • Three 1.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Mac.

    Does anybody know the bolt diameter and tread size of the TR6 screws? Eg M2.5 screws? Planning a mod for my MAC mini and will be great if someone knows the exact specs of the screws Apple uses :)

    Daniel Lee - Ответить

  3. Do not completely remove the antenna plate; it is still connected to the Mac mini by an antenna cable. With the Mac mini's ports facing you, carefully lift the antenna plate and slide it about an inch to the right.
    • Do not completely remove the antenna plate; it is still connected to the Mac mini by an antenna cable.

    • With the Mac mini's ports facing you, carefully lift the antenna plate and slide it about an inch to the right.

  4. Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the 2.8 mm screw securing the antenna cable to the Mac mini's logic board. Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the 2.8 mm screw securing the antenna cable to the Mac mini's logic board.
    • Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the 2.8 mm screw securing the antenna cable to the Mac mini's logic board.

    Interestingly on my Mac mini there was no torx screw holding this on at all, it was just attached to the logic board. There isn’t actually a screw hole to screw it into on the logic board as it appears to be a river of some kind instead.

    Rick Curran - Ответить

  5. The antenna cable connector and socket are fragile. Use the point of a spudger or fine tweezers to gently pry the antenna cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. To reconnect the cable, use tweezers to position it carefully over its socket on the logic board, and then press it straight down until it snaps into place.
    • The antenna cable connector and socket are fragile.

    • Use the point of a spudger or fine tweezers to gently pry the antenna cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • To reconnect the cable, use tweezers to position it carefully over its socket on the logic board, and then press it straight down until it snaps into place.

    • If you need more slack in the cable, you can temporarily pry it from the clips securing it to the antenna plate.

    Pry the cable… not the whole socket off the board

    Ray Foss - Ответить

  6. Remove the antenna plate from the Mac mini.
    • Remove the antenna plate from the Mac mini.

  7. Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the four 7.2 mm screws securing the fan: Two screws securing the fan to the logic board
    • Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the four 7.2 mm screws securing the fan:

    • Two screws securing the fan to the logic board

    • Two screws securing the fan to the exhaust vent

    • Rubber grommets secure these screws to the fan, so they may not come out completely. Just make sure they are fully loosened.

  8. Don't try to remove the fan completely in this step—just lift it so you can access the cable underneath. Lift the fan from the flat edge where it meets the exhaust vent, being careful not to strain the fan cable underneath.
    • Don't try to remove the fan completely in this step—just lift it so you can access the cable underneath.

    • Lift the fan from the flat edge where it meets the exhaust vent, being careful not to strain the fan cable underneath.

  9. Grasp the fan cable by all six wires and gently lift to unplug it from the logic board. Grasp the fan cable by all six wires and gently lift to unplug it from the logic board.
    • Grasp the fan cable by all six wires and gently lift to unplug it from the logic board.

    Be super careful here, socket on board can easily break and end up coming-off with the fan’s cable.

    jimthing - Ответить

  10. Remove the fan.
    • Remove the fan.

  11. Grasp the power supply cable and lift to disconnect it from the logic board, wiggling as needed to loosen it up.
    • Grasp the power supply cable and lift to disconnect it from the logic board, wiggling as needed to loosen it up.

    Loosen the side nearest outer case first

    dermoid777 - Ответить

    Is that a standard 20 pin power connector?

    gotjoshua - Ответить

  12. Carefully lift the connector for the LED indicator light straight up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board. Take care not to pry under the socket, or you may break it off the board.
    • Carefully lift the connector for the LED indicator light straight up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Take care not to pry under the socket, or you may break it off the board.

    So I followed the picture above, but lifting straight up on it ended up breaking off the entire component from the board…

    Is there a way to fix this? It doesn’t look like the computer turns on without this connection made

    Kevin Moran - Ответить

    @ksmoran Yes, it can be fixed. See Maarten’s comments on the RAM guide. That connector is only for the LED indicator light on the front, so your Mac mini should still turn on and work fine. If it’s not turning on, there’s some other problem.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I have also broken the led connection off the logic board. Is there another way to reattach it, other than finding someone to solder it?

    Steve Kenyon - Ответить

    The video at the top of the page (timestamp: 2:30) does a much better job showing how to do this. They didn’t use any tools. Simply use your fingers to pull the wires straight up from the connector. Don’t try touching the actual components, since they’re so fragile. The wires are the better bet.

    Philip Stancil - Ответить

    I found it easy to get the corner of a plastic spudger underneath the wires as close to the plastic clip as you can get it, and gently prying up. Use the logic board as the base for prying. Didn’t take much force, and everything here is really delicate. I’d try a plastic spudger here first.

    Christopher Reynolds - Ответить

    Ditto on the spudger- i couldn’t shift the connector with the angled forceps as shown in the photo

    Kier Darby - Ответить

  13. Use a T10 Torx driver to remove the two 7.5 mm screws securing the logic board. Use a T10 Torx driver to remove the two 7.5 mm screws securing the logic board.
    • Use a T10 Torx driver to remove the two 7.5 mm screws securing the logic board.

    These were very tight,

    plevin - Ответить

    Yes - Had to use a pliers to turn the T10 Screwdriver to get the first turn loosened!

    dermoid777 - Ответить

    Yeah, very tight. Make sure you put your strength into the twist and not the press. This made all the difference for me.

    koobsmooth - Ответить

  14. In this step, you'll push the logic board free from the clips holding it to the frame. Push only where directed or you may damage the fragile cooling fins. Place a thumb at each end of the exhaust vent, over the fan screw holes. Push firmly in the direction of the ports until the logic board unclips and begins to slide out of the Mac mini.
    • In this step, you'll push the logic board free from the clips holding it to the frame. Push only where directed or you may damage the fragile cooling fins.

    • Place a thumb at each end of the exhaust vent, over the fan screw holes.

    • Push firmly in the direction of the ports until the logic board unclips and begins to slide out of the Mac mini.

    Okay - I used a lot of “might” to push on the ends of this heatsink to no avail. Literally, I was scared to break it - I could feel one side moving and the other not budging. I used a large flat-edge screwdriver vertically into the Mac Mini, prying lightly against the edge of the case hole and onto the back edge of one of the silver fan standoffs protruding from the motherboard. Very little leverage here caused the board to pop out past those tight clips. Phew!

    booster4075 - Ответить

    Agreed needed a lot of force, but came out as described just tense moment. Almost ready to try the pry method and then it popped free. Phew is right.

    plevin - Ответить

    It does take a lot of force. I found the best way to handle it is to put the two exhast screws back in and use two T6 screw drivers to push. Thats easier than using your big thumbs and keeps you from damaging the fins.

    Geoffrey McKee - Ответить

    Wow, great. Thanks for the comments above, and mine is also very difficult to push. I screwed back to two T6 screws and is still no luck. At the end, I push the two screws with a T6 screwdriver and bang, much much easier. Just my two cents. Good luck guys.

    Tso Dart G - Ответить

    Watch your fingers pushing this out! I just cut my thumb on the sides

    brian.brianb64 - Ответить

    A few people have commented here about having to use a lot of force to get this out, but make sure that all of the black area at the back of the case are not being covered by your fingers as you try to push it out, it came out quite easily for me once I realised I had my fingers on it!

    Rick Curran - Ответить

  15. Slide the logic board out of the case. When reinstalling the logic board, make sure to hold the thin LED indicator light cable out of the way so it doesn't get damaged.
    • Slide the logic board out of the case.

    • When reinstalling the logic board, make sure to hold the thin LED indicator light cable out of the way so it doesn't get damaged.

    When sliding back INTO the case after you’ve replaced the RAM, be sure to keep an eye on the LED light indicator connector cable. It’s easy for the logic board to slide back in and cover up the cable, which risks breaking the plastic end piece.

    Philip Stancil - Ответить

    Tape the LED light indicator to the case to keep it out of way until reassemble.

    dermoid777 - Ответить

  16. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 2.8 mm screws securing the RAM shield.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 2.8 mm screws securing the RAM shield.

    T5 worked for me. No TR5 was needed, thankfully.

    pauldhinze - Ответить

  17. Lift the RAM shield and slide it off of the RAM assembly.
    • Lift the RAM shield and slide it off of the RAM assembly.

  18. Two clips secure each RAM module in place, one on each side. Using your fingers, spread the clips away from the RAM module. When released, the RAM modules will pop up at a slight angle.
    • Two clips secure each RAM module in place, one on each side. Using your fingers, spread the clips away from the RAM module.

    • When released, the RAM modules will pop up at a slight angle.

  19. Slide each RAM module straight out to remove it.
    • Slide each RAM module straight out to remove it.

    • When handling the RAM modules, touch only the outside edges. Take care not to touch the gold-colored contact points along the bottom edge.

  20. To install new RAM modules: Make sure the module is oriented correctly and the notch on the bottom is aligned, and then slide it in at about the same angle as you took it out. Press evenly until the gold contacts are no longer visible. Repeat for the second module.
    • To install new RAM modules:

    • Make sure the module is oriented correctly and the notch on the bottom is aligned, and then slide it in at about the same angle as you took it out. Press evenly until the gold contacts are no longer visible.

    • Repeat for the second module.

    If the rubber covers come off they are a pain to put back on - you have to slide the rubber into space between the RAM module and the retainer clips - this video explains it perfectly -

    https://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos...

    dermoid777 - Ответить

  21. Finally, press the top edge of each RAM module to swing it down toward the logic board until the retaining clips on each side snap into place. If the rubber guards interfere with the clips, spread the rubber guards away from the RAM with one hand and use the other to angle the RAM modules into place. Then, release the guards. Check the clips and make sure both modules are fully seated and secure.
    • Finally, press the top edge of each RAM module to swing it down toward the logic board until the retaining clips on each side snap into place.

    • If the rubber guards interfere with the clips, spread the rubber guards away from the RAM with one hand and use the other to angle the RAM modules into place. Then, release the guards.

    • Check the clips and make sure both modules are fully seated and secure.

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

161 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Rod Bland

Участник с: 25.03.2013

2 355 Репутация

1 Guide authored

Комментариев: 92

Thank you so much! I’m curious about CPU. Is it possible to replace it?

cjoonh - Ответить

No, the CPU is soldered to the logic board.

Jon Anscher -

Looks like the SSD is replaceable as well. Any idea on what kind of standard it follows?

QiF - Ответить

looks like soldered to me. either way, with that T2 chip on board one shall not pass through…

Peter Marencik -

How many slots for ram rank have Mac mini? And the entry version (8Gb) how many rank have ? One of 8gb or two of4gb? Tank’s

tiffanycafenapoli - Ответить

There are two RAM slots.

If you order the Mac Mini with 8GB RAM, it will contain 2 x 4GB RAM cards.

Douglas Bailey -

what about the CPU??? Please explore more!!!

Peter Marencik - Ответить

Hi Peter,

the CPU is not socketed. Check out the teardown here.

Arthur Shi -

Can you put 2400Mhz RAM in the Mac Mini?

I ask because the MAC mini memory ram is rated for 2666mhz and I have ddr 4 2400mhz RAM laying around.

Nicholas Mohamed - Ответить

I’m curious to this as well, because performance-wise there’s not any noticable difference but there is a price difference.

Mikael D -

I had a pair of G.Skill F4-2400C16S-16GRS laying around as well and both went in to an i5 mini no problem. About this Mac reported that the new memory speed was 2400 .

Ben Marco -

Is it possible to have :

1x 4Go DDR4 Apple 2666Mhz

with

1x 16Go DDR4 Crucial 2666Mhz ?

jean - Ответить

Yes, you can mix and match the module sizes in just about any Mac, so you could even have 4GB +32GB

Rod Bland -

Rod, do you know if the performance is affected by different sized RAM? It may be too late for me now, but maybe I should have bought one 32GB module instead of two 16s.

Jon Anscher -

Although it is technically okay to mix ram sizes (if the mobo and BIOS allows it), there IS a performance penalty when not using matched pairs of memory. That is true for just about any computer (Windows PC or Mac); , it has to with interleaving and other factors. In some cases, even if both sticks are same RAM size but different makers or configurations, that can also cause a performance hit, hence why most recommend using matched pairs of SAME manufacturer / model. By configuration i mean a 4 GB chip may have a 4 x 1GB config., where as another 4GB chip from another maker may have a 2 x 2GB config or 8 x 512MB (or whatever, ) Macs have historically much tighter tolerances (ie. less forgiving) when it comes to memory vs say a garage mix and match PC build; I strongly suggest using matched pairs by same maker, and stick to reputable brands. there are a lot of gray market chips out there with very questionable tolerances; if the price SEEMS TOO GOOD, THERE IS A REASON.

Michael Chin -

The first video posted on Youtube said the mac didn’t recognize the replaced memory properly. He installed the DDR4 3000, but it just run at 2444. Do you guys tried other RAMs?

seawah.k - Ответить

So, upgrading the ram won’t brick the Mac mini?

tran269 - Ответить

No it will not brick the mac, worked like a charm with the Corsair 2x16GB from Amazon. Sorry IFIXIT.

Provided you take static precautions and use general care.

This tutorial is a great step by step. I used the IFIXIT TOOLKIT and the IFIXIT Magnetic Project Mat to complete the task. 30 minutes start to boot up. Save about 350 some odd dollars versus ordering it preconfigured from Apple, but to each their own.

Roger Alexander -

32GB RAM should meet my needs for a while, as it has for several years now. I read that the mini won’t be as fast with unbalanced RAM, so I ordered 2x16 instead of 1x32. That could have given me 36GB along with a 4GB from my 8GB mini order. 2x16Gb costs less than 1x32 so there’s a savings there, but I will ultimately have wasted money on the 16GB SODIMMs if I eventually need to upgrade to 64GB. Wasn’t an easy thing to decide on.

Lots of people will face this dilemma.

Johann Johannson - Ответить

As I wrote the previous post on the 8GB mini, the security bits for installing the RAM arrived. With 8 programs and several background processes running—the LG 4K monitor Newegg had on sale last week for $259 has 30 icons on its menu bar—the mini is still comfortably below its 8GB limit. With paging occurring only infrequently and at blazing-fast speeds, I’m beginning to wonder if I’ll ever feel a need to install more than 32GB RAM.

Now to get to work and put those tools to use. Thanks for the tips!

Johann Johannson - Ответить

Thanks so much for putting this guide together! Upgraded with 32GB of Crucial RAM. It works great, and I saved $240!

Jon Anscher - Ответить

Bricked! Mini will not turn on. Any ideas?

For the avoidance of doubt. I presume I did something wrong. Anyway, put factory ram back in, still doesn’t start.

spamsea - Ответить

Have you tried unplugging everything except a single monitor, keyboard, and mouse from the Mac Mini? I had some issues starting up the Mac Mini with a lot of peripherals plugged in. It seems to have resolved itself after it fully loads for the first time and all the updates hit. Although it does worry me a bit, long-term.

Jon Anscher -

That comment probably just saved Apple thousands of dollars lol. Hope you got it fixed, please keep us hesitants posted.

Radwan Kaloti -

I tried both removing all devices (headless) and just the basics. Is there anyway to tell if the power is plugged correctly to the logic board? I mean it looks right, just trying to think of things I could check. The only things I can think of are that the ram is somehow out of alignment in some micro way, (i tried new ram, old ram, wiggling in various directions etc) I didn’t put the power plug back on the logic board correctly or I somehow fried something..

spamsea -

One other thing you might try is powering it on in Recovery mode to confirm there is no software glitch. Have you posted this in the Answers community? There might be more technical folks there to try and help.

Jon Anscher -

Did you get it working spamsea?

Radwan Kaloti -

I had heard that it was necessary for Apple to run some sort of hardware test before new Apple products would be able to run ANY replacement parts. Could this be the reason it doesnt work? Now I’m nervous about trying to upgrade.

Ben DeJong -

Same-ish here. I swapped out the original ram for 32GB (2x16) from Crucial. Then the Mac mini won’t turn on again. I put the old ram back in and it turns on, but only recognizes one slot.

Jarrod -

Well, there is nothing for it, just gotta take it in to the Genius Bar. See if they can tell me what is wrong.

spamsea -

I’m bailing on the upgrade, it’s just not worth the potential hassle. And I thought about it, if ever I need to take it in to Apple for repairs during the apple care warranty, that’s opening and closing it 3 times, RAM in RAM out, might get away with it once, but opening it 3+ times ups the chances to break something.

Radwan Kaloti -

Fixed it.

Problem 1: The ram wasn’t seated properly. It clicks into place a few millimeters before it’s pushed down far enough. Push until the gold connectors are no longer visible at all. Mine seemed like it would break, but it didn’t.

Problem 2: This one was minor, but I had to hold the power button down for 5 or 10 seconds before it turned on. This isn’t usually the case, it’s only after replacing the ram.

Jarrod -

Way to go Jarrod! Thanks for the update. Please post another in a day or two as to how stable everything is. Thanks!

Mike Buettner -

Jarrod - are you still experiencing the power button long hold to start?

Mike Buettner -

Second mini. I followed the same steps, it all went fine. One difference is that on the second mini, I replaced the ram before turning it on for the first time.

spamsea -

This goes to my comment that Steps 19 - 22 and in Step 22 in the comment it says currently:

If the rubber guards interfere with the clips, spread the rubber guards away from the RAM with one hand and use the other to angle the RAM modules into place. Then, release the guards.

This should be replaced with - Remove the rubber grommets or RAM SHIELD FEET by sliding them in the same direction you slid the RAM SHIELD to remove it and then replace the ram normally. Replace the FEET and the Shield as described.

Roger Alexander -

Info: Mac Mini 2018 also works with DDR4 2400 Mhz

About this Mac: https://gyazo.com/b203d435cf809b2775abb7...

System Info: https://gyazo.com/21213acd745d5f2d6219c3...

Joerg Michael - Ответить

Looks like we have a wait a little while more before we proceed to change those RAMs. The worst fear is bricking the whole system.

Let’s wait for more updates from those who can’t turn on their systems after changing their RAMs.

truecolours1971 - Ответить

Plus, if the MM 2018 is able to run various task normally at 8GB of RAM, I don’t see myself upgrading the RAMs until the pricing are much lower. For now, 64GB is about $1,080 at OWC website which is ridiculously priced! Maybe when the MM is able to accept and run 128GB worth of RAM (day dreaming at the moment!), I will buy it! Will only purchase the 64GB RAM when it is less than $500 or less. My take for those who have not upgraded yet, use your MM for now and don’t think of upgrading your RAMs until much later. Upgrading to 32GB will see some improvement but why not wait a couple months and get the 64GB which will max out your system. MM 2018 is still relatively new and iFixit probably need to go through the whole system again to see and retest to make sure whatever we open, will not void out 1-3 years Apple Care Warranty plus brick the whole system.

truecolours1971 -

Yes, anxious to hear how upgraded Minis are working.

Mike Buettner - Ответить

What, no antistatic mat and bracelet. If the RAM modules are sensitive to static charges, you should use static protection gear. You can zap a memory chip and never even know you did it until you cannot boot or you get system crashes or other oddnesses.

jferris1119 - Ответить

Is there any chance to replace the SSD ?

wyattwong - Ответить

Can you use only one slot, e.g. 1x16GB and add another one later (even better 1x32 when those are out)?

beczka - Ответить

Thank you for your guide.Great work. I added 2x16GB Crucial and it’s working like a charm. One drawback … I killed the WLAN antenna socket. This one is very very fragile. While putting the cable back on the pin and pushing gently to lock it the whole socket came off. Good that I don’t need the WLAN module and maybe I’m able to buy a new socket somewhere sometimes and solder it back on place …

Markus Müller-Heidelberg - Ответить

Hello. Is it possible to run the Mac Mini 2018 with only one RAM module (leaving the second one empty)? If it is possible, is there a penalty in its performance?

Thanks you.

Adrian Alvarado - Ответить

This is the first ifixit repair guide I’ve ever followed. The 3 steps I was most worried about...Step 6: antenna cable connector removal. Step 10: fan cable removal. Step 13: LED indicator light cable removal...weren't an issue at all. In fact the only step I had an issue with was Step 15 (pushing the logic board free) and that's because I wasn't pushing hard enough. Overall, a little scary to crack open something brand new that's $1k but I was able to pull it off without issue. (thankfully). Now this Mac mini is running with 32GB + 3 monitors and should last me the next 4 years till Apple updates it again.

Craig Miller - Ответить

My upgrade went pretty much okay. Easier than I thought. Antenna wire snapped right back on, motherboard slid out without much effort and memory modules were easy to remove and seat. Only problem I had was a stripped head on a fan Torx T6 screw on reassembly. I must not have had the driver seated into the screw correctly. Screw is tight so all okay for now. Booted up and shows the 32GB of RAM. Need to find a new screw and hope the old one comes out. I know I didn’t crank it down. Any idea where to find that screw?

Mike Buettner - Ответить

Yes that angle of attack should probably be emphasized in detail in Step 8 - good point!

I was like WHAT? Thankfully I have my cheater glasses (old eyes) and I was able to see the angle of attack clearly under magnification.

Roger Alexander -

Step 8 - make it more clear the ‘rubber grommeted’ screws are ‘captive screws’ and they are specifically the yellow screws holing the front of the air box to the heat sink - not the red screws which are removed completely during this process.

Step 15 - for me it was necessary to use the blue pry tools employed in the opening of the bottom cover to assist in ‘freeing’ the main board from the housing - probably not everyone will encounter this but after some serious pushing on the heat sink without result, I fell back to this step. I pushed and the left side budged, but only slightly. So I started on that edge at the ‘case / port mounts of the mainboard seal’ with the blue pry tools and boom it popped free and I was able to complete the step as described to free the mainboard completely from the case…..

Roger Alexander - Ответить

Step 19 - 22 I think it should be made clear that there are rubber grommets that serve at the ram shield ‘feet’ and they can be remove by sliding them in the same direction you slid the Ram shield to remove it. then you can replace the ram - replace the ‘rubber feet’ and then the Ram Shield. I preferred this method to ‘fumbling around that rubber to access the clips to free the ram. This step should definitely be included.

Great tutorial - easy to follow - thanks man!

Roger Alexander - Ответить

Hi Rod,

On Step 3 it says to “Remove six TR6 Torx security screws…of the following lengths: Three 4.1 mm screws; Three 1.8 mm screws”

Is this a typo? How can it be that one TR6 screwdriver can remove two different sizes of screws/

Thank you for your help.

Ken Klippenstein - Ответить

Ken,

It is not a typo the screws are different sizes but require the same T6 Torx to remove them. The Larger serve as the mount points for the rubber case bottom and are in fact what you used the pry tool in steps 1 and 2 to remove the bottom cover ‘from’.

Hope this helps.

Roger

Roger Alexander -

TR6 is the head size, which is shared by both screws. The millimeter measurements are the lengths of the screws from head to the bottom of the shaft, not across the width of the head.

Sam Goldheart -

This guide is excellent. I would have been stuck at removing the logic board without it! Sure glad I bought the iFixit toolkit on Black Friday. What I installed was Ballistix Sport DDR4-2666 (2x16GB). But Mac reports it is running at 2400MHz, not 2666. Otherwise it is working great. Has anyone been able to correct RAM speeds? On a PC I’d fiddle with BIOS settings and kick in the XMP profile, but is there anything I can do on a Mac?

chris - Ответить

Unfortunately I &&^&@@ up on step 13.

I was afraid to pull on the LED wire and had no grip on the plug. The I tried to wedge with a knife from below and the whole socket including the plug came loose from the board.

I know now this was stupid! Probably I should have lifted on the wire itself, right?

Do you think the tiny connections from the socket can be soldered again by somebody more professional?

Maarten - Ответить

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen - 2 hours ago

Yes Jeff, I put the mini together yesterday and found that everything was working okay (with 32 GB of RAM) except for the LED light. Today I went to an electronics repair guy, who soldered the socket back in place. That made me happy again. He was professional and really nice guy and did not even charge me anything for this soldering of the LED socket! So fortunately all is fine again.

I noticed now there is a warning at Step 13. Very good! I don’t know if that warning was there yesterday; at least yesterday I did not notice it.

Maarten - Ответить

Excellent description! And with the tools from iFixit it was easy to upgrade my MacMini 2018 to 32GB RAM. Thanks a lot.

heiko.morgen - Ответить

Completed upgrade this evening.  Great instructions!!!

John Clowes - Ответить

Thanks for the great guide! Just did it in approx. 25 minutes and I'm now running 20GB memory. Everything is running smooth. I'll maybe update the other 4GB chip some time down the road when I have the extra $$.

Erik - Ответить

Thank you Rod! Did a successful memory upgrade from 8Gb to 32Gb with this step-by-step guide!

Martijn Smulders - Ответить

Thanks! I have 32gb now and saved a lot of $$$

Sergey - Ответить

Excellent guide!

ironically I found the 2018 model much easier to breakdown than previous models.

Frank Phillips - Ответить

One thing to think about regarding memory and the fixed internal storage. 8GB while sufficient for most light duty users still causes some swap activity to write back to the main storage. While SSD/Flash based storage life-cycle has proven to be extremely durable, continuous swap activity does consume some of the finite write cycles for the chips. With older/slower physical drives this was usually an after-thought.

Additionally, storage failure in any way now requires logic board replacement versus a separate drive swap. Lastly, if failure does occur, what mitigating factors does Apple (or any authorized service agency) take to ensure personal/private data is completely destroyed? Non-fixed drives don’t have this problem - replace the defective drive and load back up, assuming the consumer retains the original drive.

scdude - Ответить

Hi all, does anyone know the details of the little two pin led connector? Whilst removing it during a RAM upgrade one of the wires pulled through the plastic housing of the connector. The board pins are ok just the housing of the connector and I’d like to replace it. Thanks.

Simon Smith - Ответить

Thank you, Rod!

Excellent step by step tutorial, with very clear and detailed pictures. Also, great tips and warnings. I took it slowly and completed it successfully within the hour (including dropping the antenna screw in the mac mini - yes, it rolled away under some component).

Thank you so much!

Dennis - Ответить

Thanks! A very precise and easy to follow guide. Some observations:

I had purchased two 16 GB Crucial RAM modules despite the latency number (CL19) which I suspect does not matter in practice. They fit very well - I had no trouble with the fit being too tight. However, like another comment noted, it seemed easier to just slide the rubber guards off and then back on after the new modules are in place.

The hardest part was plugging the antenna cable back in. It is simply hard to see when it is in the right place and you can safely push down.

Logic board screws were annoyingly tight.

The ifixit toolkit was extremely helpful.

J. Andreas Baerentzen - Ответить

One general comment, when removing the Wifi antennae connector, be very careful when prying it up. Mine somehow became damaged upon removal and will not reinstall. Luckily, I am close enough to my router that it doesn’t affect performance. Signal strength is still 4 full bars and speedtest.net shows no loss in speed. Very lucky in my case.

Warren McBride - Ответить

Success! This guide was great together with the ifixit pro kit. Thank you!

Nikolai van der Burg - Ответить

Thank you iFixit for the kit, the Crucial memory modules, and the instructions.

My remarks, repeated in other comments:

- obviously be very very careful with the antenna and the led connector, they are really tiny.

- the board screws are really tight. Had to use some pliers with the torx piece because the iFixit plastic handle did not seem strong enough for the required force. Or better, I had no force to unscrew them using the kit.

- make sure the RAM is fully plugged in. If you can see the coper from the connectors, they’re not well plugged. The machine won’t start if they’re not plugged, not even turn the led on.

- even with the RAM well plugged, the trick to press power for five seconds is needed. Five despairing seconds waiting for the led to come on.

Works perfectly. The kit is perfect. The memories are great. The Mac mini process is quite easy and well designed. I’d say a low end of the moderate.

bruno.rodrigues - Ответить

Hi. Can anyone confirm if this is true ? ( Published 2019.03.24 on the youtube video)The latest Mac mini 2018 builds are no longer user upgradeable – you need to take your Mac mini back to your local Apple Store to have them upgrade it for you. They've changed all the screws to stop you accessing the internals. They look like proprietary T3/4 security screws

Manuel N - Ответить

Hi @manuelnv This guide proves that isn’t true, the device can be opened, it does require a T6 security screwdriver as well as T5 and T10, but those driver are not very uncommon. Apple wouldn’t call this computer user-serviceable, but read the comments here, many people have done this successfully =)

Sam Goldheart -

Just installed the 32GB memory kit on brand new Mac Mini. Worked no problem, the instructions were super clear! Thanks iFixit!!!

Cyrille Taillandier - Ответить

Good guide! Can the ram be replaced using only one 32gb chip, then adding a second 32gb later?

Ian gilmartin - Ответить

So I did break the LED indicator light off of the board. Any suggestions? Is that worth micro-soldering back on, or is it just that the light doesn’t work?

Todd Peperkorn - Ответить

Just upgraded to 1 x Crucial CT2K16G4SFD8266 32GB (16GB x2) bought from Amazon.de for some 196€ (220$). Done within 15mins, thanks IFIXIT for a superb guide! The only tricky part was a first boot, I had to go via Recovery Mode (Command+R during startup), restart, Safe Mode (Shift during startup), another bounce and voilà, the system is up and running again reporting 32GB of memory :) So thanks IFIXIT for saving me almost 400$!

George Groats - Ответить

Thanks a lot. Is it possible to change the ssd?

uwemoebus - Ответить

Thank you - your guide worked like a charm - I unboxed and upgraded the memory before turning it on - from 8 to 32 GB.

I also read all the comments and found them most useful in identifying the risky/tricky steps in the process - the cable connections that required extra attention - correctly seating the memory - etc.

Bryan Palmer - Ответить

Worked perfectly Rod. Thanks for being detailed.

Brian Kidd - Ответить

Steps 19 - 22 should be revisited to include the proper removal/replacement of the RAM Shield FEET, rubber grommets, Reading the comments it seems the major issues - DOA issues all revolve around this issue.

Roger Alexander - Ответить

be careful when screwing in the screw for securing the antenna cable, I managed to break the top off.

Mats Andreas Tønnesland - Ответить

Pretty straight forward and save me a few hundred bucks! Thanks!

stevelamas - Ответить

Worked a charm. Thanks so much for all the steps and hints. Thanks to the community for hints in comments of each step.

Katalin E Pusztavari - Ответить

Replaced the memory on mac mini as instructed but the system won’t recognize the 32GB. It still recognizes as 8GB. Any additional step I must take with the OS? Any special reboot? I can’t seem to find this anywhere. Thanks!

Henrique Mendes Carneiro - Ответить

If you loose a little screw inside, you may find it below the loudspeaker. It is magnetic, an can be removed easily loosening 2 screws.

Klaus Kamppeter - Ответить

Tools listed to buy includes a TR6 Torx security screwdriver, but Step 17 says you need a TR5 if the security screws are used.

So which size is it?

My iFixit tool kit has all the torx drivers and the security ones do not start until size 6.

A quick search online does not find TR5 drivers.

mike - Ответить

Someone insisted their mini had TR5 screws on the RAM cage, but I agree with you—I’ve never seen one on this (or any other) device. Restored Step 17 to specify standard T5 only for now. If more people chime in with woeful tales of security screws on their RAM, we’ll update accordingly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks, this guide is perfect! Couldn’t have been easier. I was a bit worried about disconnecting and reconnecting the wifi antenna - I’ve built hackintosh'es in the past that involved putting a BMC wifi/bluetooth card in a PCIe slot and generally the antenna dongle from the broadcom card (which I always chose because the right chipset gets picked up as Airport with all the features) is a real ##&&% to get attached properly to the PCIe end… I’ve had to resort to hot glue in the past, heh! Nothing like that this time, I was careful and it popped on nicely.

Everything working great! Saved loads. Cheers.

John Newman - Ответить

Would it be better to upgrade it with 1 32 GB Samsung RAM and leaving the default 4 GB in, totalling in 36 GB RAM, or should I buy 2 A-Tech 16 GB replacing both slots? Both RAM packages would cost me exactly the same on eBay. Thanks for your answers!

Matic Komel - Ответить

Also, are you guys using magnetic or non-magnetic torx screwdrivers?

Matic Komel -

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