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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air$5.99-
Remove the following ten screws:
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Two 9 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
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Eight 2.6 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
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Remove the lower case and set it aside.
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Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.
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Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.
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While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
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Remove the I/O board cable.
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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
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Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
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One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head
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Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.
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Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
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De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
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Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
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Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
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Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
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Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws
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Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws
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Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
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Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.
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While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket by sliding it toward the corner of the Air.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.
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Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
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Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
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Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
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Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
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Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
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Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
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Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.
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Remove the eight 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
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Remove the heat sink from the logic board.
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When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.
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Remove the rubber fan gasket from the logic board.
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Logic board remains.
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4 Комментариев
Can I use a later model logic board in the 2010 model?
Later models logic board have connection for backlit keyboard next to battery connector. Also different shaped right speaker
Please be so nice and let me know if logic board replacement at my late 2010 with 2G RAM in to the same model but with 4G RAM, will give me visible, tangible nice results, that the speed is improved ? It should but can someone confirm it ?
Hi Artur,
TL;DR: Yes!
If you have a look in the “activity monitor” unter memory, you will find that with just 2GB of RAM, OS X will almost always use some “Swap” memory, which means, it has to offload files from the RAM to the HDD (SDD). Whenever this happens, the system will get a lot less responsive, since moving files from the RAM to the SSD and back is a lot slower, than just reading/writing from/to the RAM. In my experience, with 2GB this happens all the time, whereas with 4GB, you have to run a number of programs at once, until that happens.
To be clear: 4GB will not suddenly make this a fast machine, it’s still a 10+ years als Core2Duo, but it will be a lot more responsive and usable with 4GB in it. The replacement process is relatively easy, as you can see in the guide, as long as you got the right screwdrivers. If you can get a 4 GB board for a decent price, give it a try!
NebukadV -