Введение

Use this guide to replace a blown microphone.

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Ответить

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Ответить

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Ответить

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Ответить

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Ответить

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Ответить

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Ответить

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Ответить

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

anne uhlir - Ответить

im looking for a Logic Board for a

Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

Any help is appreciated.

Jamie Comstock - Ответить

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Ответить

When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

Gabriel - Ответить

Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board. Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.
  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

I was installing battery model: A1406

A1406 has the following connector:

Top:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

Bottom:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

It came out fairly easy, luckily!

(And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

This was a great guide!

wil - Ответить

I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012 Battery Replacement) show a connector like the one in your photos.

shamino -

The 13 inch's tab is a bit more difficult to reinstall than uninstall. Delicate care is needed.

Andrew Ruble - Ответить

I agree with Andrew and Joes. I also found that the trickiest part was to pull the tap back when reinstalling the new battery. A special hint at this point in the guide would be nice.

Alexander Kluge -

This is the tricky part if there is one. Just pull back towards the battery and not up.

Joe Wasser - Ответить

hello there, My macbook air does not recognize a battery connected, anymore.

It looks like I damaged the connectors while trying to connect the battery back, although it does not look damaged. I must say, I tried a little force to squeeze the connector in the middle instead of the edge. May have damaged the connector ?

Once, after this, the MBA recognized my battery when pressed the connectors edge to the pins on the board. However, this did not last long and my MBA does not recognize the battery anymore. Any solutions on how I can fix this ? Please help.

Samy Palaniappan - Ответить

Had the same issue where my Macbook did not recognize the battery on the first try. I opened it back up and re-seated the connector and that fixed the problem. That particular connector does not seem to have a positive engagement. It does not appear to seat all the way down. It’s charging now and I hope it will remain stable and connected as I travel.

Paul Tornatta - Ответить

When we were putting the new battery in, it was easier to fit the tab back on and then fit the battery in place. I had someone helping me and they held the new battery up whilst I pushed the tab in. It was quite tight, and I ended up easing it in with the tip of a screwdriver on each edge in turn.

Shimbo - Ответить

Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

Les couleurs ne me semblent pas justes.

drixe - Ответить

The screw heads are made of a soft butter like chinese metal and will easily get f*cked up. take care when reinstalling to not mess them up.

John Hamilton - Ответить

les couleur sont justes; die rot markierten Schrauben oben und mitte sind länger als die unteren.

I had used the P5 driver there, too (just gently put the bit into the screws and see that’ll fit.

jmhoraze - Ответить

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When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Quick note about the replacement battery, if you bought from iFixit and the battery sections have a thin film over them, peel them off. They're to protect the battery during transit, and if you leave them on they might cause heating issues.

Here is a link to my question about it: Replacement battery has thin film on each section do I need to remove? plus, I just got an email from iFixit customer support that it needs to be removed.

dpchoung - Ответить

thank you for the help! I installed the proper batt properly following the advice from here;-) Mahalo from Hawaii-

zzzikaikazzz - Ответить

Does replacement battery for Macbook Air 13" Mid 2012 works with Mac OS Sierra 10.12.3 and up?

Benny Forsberg - Ответить

I installed the battery (OEM Apple) for the Mac Air 2013 throygh 2015:

1. the battery for the Mac Air 2012 throygh 2015 was stated to may have compatibility problems;

2. lesser price;

no problems with macOS Sierra.

jmhoraze - Ответить

Replaced it in no time! Thank you and cheers from Slovenia (that’s the one who beat you in hockey few days ago

Mark Ogner - Ответить

iFixit should really clarify whether the film covering each of the battery packs should or should not be removed. Based on dpchoung’s comment I removed this film. It was not obvious or easy to remove and as I was doing it I realized that maybe this was not a good idea as I was concerned the packs might be damaged in the removal process. I suspect most people don’t bother with this film. Later, clicking on the forum exchange I see conflicting advice. My guess is that the film provides added protection and has minimal impact on thermal issues. I am sorry I went through the bother of removing the film and hope no damage was done.

Mark Young - Ответить

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

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De-route the left speaker cable from its retaining clip on the I/O board.
  • De-route the left speaker cable from its retaining clip on the I/O board.

This photograph does not match the model. The microphone has a flat ribbon cable, not a round one.

Goth70 Fuzed - Ответить

Also, the wire has no retaining clip in this model.

Goth70 Fuzed - Ответить

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

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Use the edge of a spudger to pry the microphone connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the microphone connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

In my own MacBook Air 13" mid-2012 A1466, the microphone appears like that of the part offered for sale at the top of the page, not this image.

Goth70 Fuzed - Ответить

In this model, the the I/O board cable must also be removed to gain access to the microphone connector. See the upper case replacement guide for removing this part.

Goth70 Fuzed - Ответить

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the left side of the upper case. Remove the microphone from the upper case.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the left side of the upper case.

  • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

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Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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There is a not 2012 MBA entrails on the photos. Maybe a newer MBA (double mic).

Surgie - Ответить

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