Введение

Use this guide to replace the I/O board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Ответить

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Ответить

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Ответить

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Ответить

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Ответить

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Ответить

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Ответить

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Ответить

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Ответить

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Ответить

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Ответить

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Ответить

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Ответить

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Ответить

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Ответить

    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

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    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

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    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Ответить

    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

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    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - Ответить

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Ответить

    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - Ответить

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Ответить

    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - Ответить

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Ответить

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - Ответить

    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Ответить

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Ответить

    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

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    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - Ответить

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Комментариев: 10

How can I tell if its my I/O board that is damaged? I cannot hear sound from Aux port or from the speakers on my macbook. Laptop still charges fine though.

Ralphy Sierra - Ответить

Check to see if your USB port on that side works. That was how I know mine was bad.

craig - Ответить

Was easier than I thought to do.

craig - Ответить

If light on magsafe doesn't turn on, is it safe to say the io board needs to be replaced?

Jon Lewin - Ответить

Thumbs up Walter!

jlaramore - Ответить

Worked perfectly for me. In my case the audio device wasn’t able to be found so no sound unless I used a usb or bluetooth speaker. I found that one step here wasn’t necessary was to remove the fan - just swivel it out of the way and so you don’t have to unplug it. Otherwise a very good explanation made it easy for me to fix my 2013 MacAir having no sound.

Josh Marshall - Ответить

Does anyone know if this i/o board for the MBA mid-2013 contains the hall effect sensor for controlling sleep? I have a unit for repair that just keeps going to sleep randomly then waking up like a yoyo. So to me it is a sensor failure. Any suggestions would be welcome, but might just buy and replace i/o board as a starting point. I have tried: PRAM and SMC resets and making sure magnets are not near. Thanks

Alec - Ответить

I’ve just done a short video, it would seem that the hall effect sensor is in the same place as the 2010 version as linked here:

Location of Hall Effect [Lid] Sensor

Video demonstrating the problem fairly clearly / random off and on and triggered with close magnet:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZO_v1aW...

I’ll give the i/o board a replacement and hopefully that will fix things. But will report back…

Alec -

In response to first i/o board replacement on the MBA 2013. Unfortunately, the board I received did not work for charging the battery; so had to go back. However, it did seem to correct the auto sleep issue! But of course it was only on PSU and throttled as it did not charge the battery, despite checking and re-checking every connection. I have popped the old board back in and back came the auto sleep problem, even when connected to the charger. So we may be a step closer to solving this…

Apple said it needed a full replacement mother board! So while I cannot be 100% certain, it seems highly likely that the hall effect sensor that causes auto sleep is on the i/o board (only) and replacing it (with a fully working board) corrects this problem. I will order another i/o board that hopefully works for both charging and hall effect issue and report back once fitted!

Any one else with this experience, I’d welcome your feedback…

Alec - Ответить

…Second i/o board arrived and it has STOPPED the auto on/off sleep / turning off problem for the MBA 2013 13”.

Almost certainly it was a faulty hall effect sensor on the i/o board as the new board now: charges, sleeps correctly when lid closes (it would jitter, flash on and off violently before when closing before) and most importantly so far does not auto-sleep or turn off randomly during operation.

Replacement board was only £20 (about $25USD) so vs Apple quote of new motherboard at £800 this is a bit of a saving, less time of course.

For those interested, I believe the hall effect sensor is located between the USB port and audio socket.

Alec - Ответить

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