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Введение

If your trackpad is faulty or needs to be removed for easier access to the battery, follow this guide.

For your safety, discharge your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Ответить

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Ответить

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Ответить

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Ответить

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Ответить

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Ответить

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Ответить

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Ответить

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Ответить

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Ответить

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Ответить

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Ответить

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Ответить

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Two 5.3 mm screws

    • Two 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

    Aaron Dalziel - Ответить

    I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.

    tommy404 - Ответить

  2. Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro. Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.

    To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.

    olivia drinkwine - Ответить

  3. Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes. Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis. Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other. This may require a lot of force.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.

    Andrew Gordon - Ответить

    I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.

    Josh Brown - Ответить

  7. Remove the lower case.
    • Remove the lower case.

  8. Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. Remove the tape.
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

    once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

    Anton Monakhov - Ответить

    The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

    Tarun Thiruma - Ответить

    The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

    Rick Jaffe - Ответить

  9. Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

  10. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

    tarex7 - Ответить

    The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

    Rick Jaffe - Ответить

    Same problem with the tape coming loose and the cable not coming out. Go further back along the cable and pull gently on the cable with your fingers and the connector will come out easily.

    Robert - Ответить

  12. Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.
    • Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.

    • If you're replacing your battery, you may need to completely remove and transfer this cable to your new battery. Disconnect both ends and carefully remove the cable. During installation, be careful not to install it upside-down or backwards—note the orientation in the photos.

    The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

    MikeG1 - Ответить

    I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

    lamajr - Ответить

    Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

    Marc - Ответить

    In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.

    Rick Jaffe - Ответить

    AMEN!! This was the hardest part of the ENTIRE process! Hard to know when the small end of the cable was “fully” inserted. Cable is SOOOOO delicate!

    Kevin McAda -

    If your laptop is showing the x where the battery icon is, this cable is at fault. This cable is referred to as the BMU (Battery Management Unit) flex cable. If it’s damaged, replacing it should solve your issue.

    Josh M - Ответить

  13. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

    When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

    tarex7 - Ответить

  14. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

  15. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.

  16. Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket.
    • Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket.

  17. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    This step needs a warning on it. I somehow angled my spudger too low and it pried the connecting port loose which eventually broke off the logic board. It ruined my computer. BEWARE.

    JACOB HESTER - Ответить

  18. Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.
    • Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.

    • If you don't have an iOpener, use a hair dryer to warm up the cable instead. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

    If you don’t have the iOpener, use a dry heating pad (with rice inside) and heat for 2 minutes in the microwave.

    tarex7 - Ответить

    there's nothing in this manual about how to secure the cable while reassembling. I used insulating tape.

    Anton Monakhov - Ответить

    The air drier worked well for me, just need to be patient and and maintain a slight pull force to know when it's ready.

    I did not need to secure the cable, the glue on it was still effective, apparently.

    Adrien Bernede - Ответить

    I really think the repair kit should have helped prepare for this. I neither have a hair dryer nor an iOpener! Fortunately, one of the included “plastic cards”, carefully wedged under the cable, with gentle pulling on the cable, helped release the cable from the battery.

    Kevin McAda - Ответить

    para separar el cable del pegamente se puede humedecer yna tarjeta fina plastica con alcohol isopropilico y con eso separar despacio el flex del lugar donde eta pegado

    you can use isopropilic alcohol , humect slim card whit alcohol isopropilic for separate flex from grue

    karloz61 - Ответить

    Hair dryer worked well while I gently pulled on the cable.

    tommy404 - Ответить

  19. Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way. Do not fold or tear the cable. Do not fold or tear the cable.
    • Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

    • Do not fold or tear the cable.

  20. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:

    • Two 4.3 mm screws

    • Eight 5.8 mm screws

  21. Remove the trackpad assembly. You'll need to swing the display open slightly to remove the trackpad. Take care to feed the trackpad ribbon cable through the MacBook Pro's frame without snagging.
    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

    • You'll need to swing the display open slightly to remove the trackpad.

    • Take care to feed the trackpad ribbon cable through the MacBook Pro's frame without snagging.

    • Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.

    Well… I lost one :) Anyone know where I could get a spare round one?

    matic.klemenc - Ответить

    I don’t get why this is necessary to change the battery?

    Marvin - Ответить

    Hi Marvin, I expect you figured out why this is necessary as you continued. I seriously wondered the same. The center battery does not have a solid case beneath it. If you don’t remove the track-pad, you will get adhesive remover on the circuitry and possibly ruin the track-pad. :-)

    Kevin McAda -

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Jeff Suovanen

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