Введение
Thankfully, it is no longer necessary to remove the logic board when replacing batteries on these newer MacBook Pros!
Follow these instructions to replace the glued-in battery in your MacBook Pro using an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The adhesive remover helps weaken the glue securing the old battery, making it easier to remove.
iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Follow this procedure in a well-ventilated area, and don’t smoke or work near an open flame.
To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. If a charged lithium-ion battery is accidentally punctured, a dangerous and uncontrollable fire may result. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.
Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.
Выберете то, что вам нужно
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Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
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Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:
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Two 6.2 mm screws
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Four 3.4 mm screws
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Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.
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Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.
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Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.
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Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.
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Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.
Recommend being very careful on this step and the following step when using any opening tool to always keep the “pointy end” up when prying, especially about 40mm up the side, to avoid completely destroying the speaker diaphragms.
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Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.
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Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.
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Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
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Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
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Pull first at one corner, then the other.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
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When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
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Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
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Remove the tape.
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Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
Be very careful here. It is easy to break the whole connector off the battery board, which is what I did. Luckily the connector is part of the replacement battery, so you just need to remove the connector from the cable. The pictures here should provide more detail so you can see better what is going on.
thanks a lot !!!!! great help :)
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Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.
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Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
As simple as this step might seem, the golden leads will disapper the moment you remove it as it has some adhesive under the black strip that covers it. Ensure you peel it back enough to display the golden leads after swapping the batteries out.
Your battery may come with this ribbon cable. In that case, disconnect the other end.
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Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
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Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
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Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
To completely avoid accidental contacts I recommend to wrap this connector in a piece of paper and hold it in place with tape.
Do not put tape directly on the contact underside, as that may leave some glue that would affect the contact conductivity.
I put a piece of tape on the underside of the connector (sticky side up) to insure against accidental battery contact. If you put tape on the logic board side of the connection, some insulating padding material might accidentally stick to the tape when the tape is removed during reassembly.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.
OK gracias Jonny traduzco tu comentario: Los míos son T5 y ciertamente no T3
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Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
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Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.
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If you don't have an iOpener, use a hair dryer to warm up the cable instead. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the battery.
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Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:
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Two 4.3 mm screws
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Eight 5.8 mm screws
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Swing the display open slightly to access the trackpad.
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Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out through the hole in the MacBook Pro's frame.
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Remove the trackpad assembly.
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Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.2 mm screws from the battery board.
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To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
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Additionally, use some tape and/or foil to seal off the area under the trackpad. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
This is an important point. I had missed. I feel a better image with a towel would better emphasize.
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Cut a length of packing tape or painter's tape, and slide one edge between the battery and the speaker on the left side.
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Press all along the edge of the tape with your spudger to stick it securely to the MacBook Pro's aluminum case, sealing off the speaker from the battery.
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Fold the tape over and lightly adhere it to the speaker to keep it out of the way.
The speaker membrane is also relatively delicate. You can put a small piece of paper to protect it, to avoid the tape gluing to it directly.
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Repeat the previous two steps on the opposite side in order to seal off the other speaker from the battery.
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To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.
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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
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Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
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Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the far right battery cell.
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Wait about two minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.
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After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the far right battery cell, starting from the front edge.
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Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way under the battery cell.
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Lift to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove the battery cell yet.
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Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.
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If you have difficulty getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell. Pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
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Repeat the last few steps to separate the far left battery cell.
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Begin by elevating the left side of the MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the speaker.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate.
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Slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the far left battery cell, and carefully separate the adhesive holding it in place.
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Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.
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Next, raise the back edge of your MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the keyboard/logic board area.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under each of the remaining three battery cells.
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Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover in the following steps if needed.
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Wait about two minutes before you continue.
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Slide a plastic card all the way underneath the far left battery cell—which you already separated in the previous steps—and then insert it carefully between the remaining left-side battery cell and the MacBook Pro's aluminum case.
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Use your plastic card to fully separate the remaining battery cell on the left side.
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Leave your plastic card in place temporarily to prevent the left-side battery cells from re-adhering.
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Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right.
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Slide the corner of one of your plastic cards underneath the top edge of one of the cells and then work it underneath the other cell.
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Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cells to fully separate the adhesive holding them in place.
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Remove the battery.
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Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.
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Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.
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When you're done, carefully remove the protective tape from the speakers.
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Be mindful of the battery data cable and make sure it doesn't get pinched or trapped under the battery board.
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If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.
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Carefully position the battery and set it into place.
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Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.
Extremely detailed and easy to follow instructions! I ordered all the tools from ifixit and they worked great. I didn’t use the adhesive remover. I was able to carefully work a plastic card behind each battery section. This took a little more effort but I didn’t feel comfortable using acetone on a macbook.
Instead of acetone/alcohol blend adhesive remover I used 91% isopropyl alcohol available at any pharmacy. Acetone will melt many/most plastics, alcohol will not.
91% isopropyl alcohol and a thin plastic card worked fine, took a little more time and patience but worked.
While the acetone is better at loosening/removing adhesive, you also increase the risk of damaging plastics around the battery area or worse if it should leak into the keyboard or other area!
As the instructions note ... DO NOT over apply their adhesive remover!
Thanks iFixit for providing great tutorials, parts and supplies!
Happy Customer
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
34 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.
14 Комментариев
When remounting, putting back the trackpad in a nicely centered position can become a lengthy exercise of patience.
I haven’t find guides or tricks to help; the best I came up with was to
* put back just two corner screws, without tightening them, that is enough to keep it in place and not lose the washers
* flip back your macbook keyboard up
* center the trackpad and fix it in place with adhesive tape
* flip it back belly-up, tighten the two corner screws and add the remaining six.
Thanks; everything went well, except at the end I realized that I somehow damaged the battery connector from step 12/13. What is the part number, please?
Der Akkutausch funktioniert auch mit dem Heißluftfön bei max. 100° Celsius…
Einfach die Akku-Sektionen dazu eine Minute etwas erwärmen und dann mit der Karte den Klebstoff lösen!
Der Einbau des Trackpads ist etwas fummelig da es beim Zentrieren keine Arretierung oder ähnliches gibt, dazu am besten einige Schrauben etwas anziehen und dann systematisch festziehen! Ich legte das aufgeklappte MacBook über einen Überhang damit ich von oben das Trackpad immer justieren konnte und mit der anderen Hand schraubte ich von unten die Schrauben fest ;-)
I fixed it! My original battery had swollen badly and had been a fire hazard.
This was my first time fixing a phone / laptop. Instructions were quite clear and easy to follow. I didn't run into any problem.
Very proud of myself at the moment ☺️
Is it possible to remove the battery with heat rather and remover?
After completing this repair, my space bar feels slightly sticky and no longer registers presses, unless they are firm and in the very middle of the key. I think it's very important to let all of the solvent thoroughly dry out while the laptop is still open and before the new battery is installed, or some of the vapors may penetrate the keyboard and result in gunk getting deposited under the key dome, causing this issue. I'm not sure how to resolve this without removing and attempting to disassemble the entire keyboard, which is difficult on this model.
Excellent descriptions and photos. I did this without incident.
Instead of acetone/alcohol blend adhesive remover I used 91% isopropyl alcohol available at any pharmacy. Acetone will melt many/most plastics, alcohol will not.
91% isopropyl alcohol and a thin plastic card worked fine, took a little more time and patience but worked.
While the acetone is better at loosening/removing adhesive, you also increase the risk of damaging plastics around the battery area or worse if it should leak into the keyboard or other area!
As the instructions note ... DO NOT over apply their adhesive remover!
Thanks iFixit for providing great tutorials, parts and supplies!
Happy Customer
How long does your laptop run with battery you placed without connecting power source ? I mean the how is the battery performance? Did you buy from Ifixing ?
Thank you so much Tarun.
Great!!!
Muchas gracias Tarun.
The cable referenced in steps 11 through 13 was different than what was shipped. The battery pack I received had that cable glued in place on the battery side. I. disconnected the original cable from the motherboard and used the cable that was included (attached) to the replacement battery, connecting it on the terminal that the original was attached to. I'm not sure where the difference came from, I am charging the battery as I write this and hope that it charges correctly. I know it boots up, I did that and put the Auto Boot setting back to original.
Super Anleitung, hat alles wie beschrieben funktioniert und mit dem Tool Kit für den Batterie Wechsel waren alle benötigten Werkzeuge dabei. 10 von 10 Punkten !!! DANKE
MacBook Pro 13" Retina 2018
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Ответить
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Ответить
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Ответить
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Ответить
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Ответить
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Ответить
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Ответить
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Ответить
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Ответить
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Ответить
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Ответить
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Ответить
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Ответить
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Ответить
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Ответить
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Ответить
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Ответить
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Ответить
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Ответить
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Ответить
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Ответить
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Ответить
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Ответить
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Ответить
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Ответить
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -