Введение
This guide is an internal private guide used as a prereq.
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock, and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket, towards the DC-in side of the computer.
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Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:
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One 7 mm Phillips.
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One 5 mm Phillips.
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Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.
If you only want to replace the DC-in board, stop here and GOTO 17 (and DO NOT 4 and 6).
When the Logic board is loose, lift it up on the Harddrive end and shift slightly towards the HD, so that the USB connectors at the outside come free from under the case rim and the board can be lifted up a bit. Then there´s enough room to move the DC in board, pull the cable out with a pair of tweezers, wriggle it out from under the microphone cable and wriggle the new connector in. It can be pushed into the socket with tweezers or a small screwdriver. This worked perfect for me.
Be careful not to bend the logic board, but otherwise I think there´s much less risk of messing anything up with all the connectors and bits and pieces that need to be loosened and fastened.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.
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Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.
There is a small piece just below this connector which is just an adhesive block to keep the connector from coming out. It is easiest to peel it up first with a fingernail or spudger then remove the cable. Likewise reinsert the cable before reapplying the adhesive safety stop.
I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.
It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...
But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(
If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...
Problem solved! YAY!
PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!
Look at the photo intently. The connector is inserting not in parallel, but at a slight angle. The bottom corner of the connector is slightly ahead. It is important! Singular metod to insert it.
Vladimir -
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.
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Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.
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Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.
Цитата от(из) amiller770:
When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in).
I usually use a piece of sticky transparent office tape and stick it over the flat cable a bit further away from the mating part then pull on it. There is no better way to force the flat cable into a stiff connector without damaging the fragile cable.
As others have stated, if the keyboard ribbon cable isn't fully inserted the MBP will not power on. Leo Bodnar's recommendation to use a piece of transparent office tape did the trick for me. Many thanks Leo!
Inserting the ribbon cable for the keyboard was really difficult, but i was able to get it in using a piece of tape and pulling it up, just like the tape on the keyboard backlight.
Using a piece of tape is sheer genius Kelly. My mom once said her definition of genius was an idea that, when you hear it, you say to yourself, “now why didn’t I think of that?” But you never would have thought of it. Brava (or bravo) Kelly!
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Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.
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Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.
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Remove the following screws:
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Five 3.1 mm Phillips.
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Two 3.9 mm Phillips.
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Two 7 mm Phillips from the DC-in board.
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Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:
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One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw.
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One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw.
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Lift the battery out of the upper case.
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Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.
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Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-in board that may get caught.
When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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