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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Gently pull the display data cable connector away parallel to the board.
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Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:
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One 8.6 mm Phillips
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One 5.6 mm Phillips
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Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.
The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.
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Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.
As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.
Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.
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Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.
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Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.
Toothpicks did the trick, thanks
As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.
Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!
Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.
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Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.
Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.
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Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.
I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in
A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.
If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.
on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.
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Remove the following screws:
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Two 7 mm T6 Torx screws from the DC-In board
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Five 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws
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Two 4 mm T6 Torx screws
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Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:
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One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw
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One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw
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Lift the battery out of the upper case.
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Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.
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Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-In board that may get caught.
Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.
mid 2012: Careful of the left speaker (on your right because unit is upside down). Gently remove with spudger tool before removing logic board and when reinstalling press firmly back into place with spudger. Install speaker after putting logic board in place but before installing screws.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.
highnoontoday - Ответить