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MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement, Battery: шаг 1, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

    Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

    rpbetancourt - Ответить

    If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

    Adam - Ответить

    Цитата от(из) Adam:

    If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

    Thank you very much!

    Evgeniy - Ответить

    When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.

    mark93 - Ответить

    Цитата от(из) rpbetancourt:

    Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

    I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.

    Tarn Alcock - Ответить

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement, Memory Door: шаг 2, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

    • Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 3, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement, Upper Case: шаг 4, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

    Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.

    dalphotography - Ответить

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 5, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

    A T6 worked but was too small. A T7 was better.

    nrpardee - Ответить

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 6, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

    Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

    Scott Rose - Ответить

    Been there, done that!
    I honestly don't remember how did I ultimately succeeded in getting that %#*@ screw back from the hole...

    maxime.abbey -

    by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM

    Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

    To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.

    rpbetancourt - Ответить

    Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!

    brendantully1 - Ответить

    If you still have the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the computer plug it in to the plug and screw it tight, that way you will not put one of the screws into the holes.

    netdude21 - Ответить

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 7, изображение 1 из 1
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 8, изображение 1 из 1
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 9, изображение 1 из 1
    • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

    • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.

    • Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.

    there are 2 push buttons inside the harddrive bay which release the front of the upper case.

    mforgie - Ответить

    this is an annoyingly difficult step. it is VERY hard to get the front part off without bending the unit improperly. Would be great to know where the two "push buttons" are.

    lessig - Ответить

    On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

    khank - Ответить

    Цитата от(из) khank:

    On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

    I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?

    khank - Ответить

    I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.

    schemedream - Ответить

    That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"

    just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees

    Hofmann78rus - Ответить

    [I d just say carefule on the prising open - these are fragile screw tab fixings joined to the uppercase. - Patience and gentle pressure and all works fine .

    daithid - Ответить

    Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

    Archhawk - Ответить

    the two push pins are in the battery area behind the front of the open button

    mykeylynx - Ответить

    Цитата от(из) Archhawk:

    Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

    I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=40...

    Mario da Silva - Ответить

    I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.

    Joshua May - Ответить

    There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.

    cheongi - Ответить

    The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.

    Hilal Malawi - Ответить

    After reading all the step 9 comments I was prepared for it to be very difficult. The two bendable tabs on the left front of the case were no bigger than 1/4 inch wide each and caused no trouble taking it off or putting it back on. Lifting the cover off happened before I knew it. I was carefully lifting the cover from side to side and 'poof' it was off and the yellow ribbon attaching between the case and the keyboard was so old and brittle it parted ways without my permission so that took care of step 10 right there but no problem.

    Being prepared, reading the guide, printing the guide, taping each screw to the right place on the guide made it all easy. I'm amazed it went so smooth on the first run-through. Thanks iFixit!

    Sally - Ответить

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 10, изображение 1 из 1
    • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

    • Remove the upper case.

    not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

    -urdus.

    urdus - Ответить

    I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.

    Joshua May -

    Цитата от(из) urdus:

    not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

    -urdus.

    Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).

    rpbetancourt - Ответить

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement, Optical Drive: шаг 11, изображение 1 из 1
    • Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 12, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • Two 3.3 mm silver Phillips screws on either side of the SuperDrive.

    • One 4.8 mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive.

    • The 4.8mm screw may be a T6 Torx

    On my model (core duo 1.8 ghz Macbook Pro) that "One 4.8mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive" is a silver Torx T6 screw.

    holmesworcester - Ответить

    Mine was a silver T6 Torx also.

    Melissa Godsey -

    My machine had a grey Torx here.

    dave -

    There was one extra silver Torx T6 screw, at the top left of the drive, immediately left of the ribbon cable connection, that I had to remove in order to extract the Optical drive. It is visible in the picture for Step 12.

    pensivemonk - Ответить

    On my MBP 15.4" santa rosa (July 2007), the bottom left 3.3mm screw is smaller than this and doesn't fit a PH000 screw driver.

    Greg K - Ответить

    On my A1150, the black screw wasn't- it is a silver Torx 6

    stevesontheroad - Ответить

    Take special care with the small Pillips screw to the left of the drive. The strong-ish magnet of the lid catch is likely to snatch the screw fron your driver and allow it to fall into the space below and it is a complete pain to fish out! Ask me how I know!

    dave - Ответить

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 13, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement, Logic Board: шаг 14, изображение 1 из 1
    • Disconnect the hard drive and ExpressCard connectors from the left side of the logic board.

    Be careful if you choose to disconnect the SATA connector on the HDD itself: the area where the ribbon cable bends (on the bottom left hand corner of this photo) is quite prone to wear and tear. After several disassemblies, I actually broke that ribbon cable by making a slight "cut" on the junction between the upper part of the ribbon cable (the one which goes from the HDD to the motherboard) and the lower part (the one which goes to the latch LED and IR sensor).

    It took me quite some time to find that this ribbon cable was actually broken; as I had no HDD issues, I thought that it was fine. That's only when I found that I had no more latch LED and unrecognized IR sensor, that I carefully examined the ribbon cable, just to find that there was that little cut in the circuitry. Hopefully, I had a spare one, and you can still find it for a few bucks.

    maxime.abbey - Ответить

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 15, изображение 1 из 1
    • Disconnect the eight indicated connectors from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

    I wish there was some tip or picture how to remove the tiny ones. I already broke the left als

    Shann ell - Ответить

    From what I can remember, if you have long enough fingernails to slide on the edges of the connectors, or appropriate spudgers, removing the tiny ones is quite effortless.

    maxime.abbey - Ответить

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 16, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use a spudger to flip up the brown plastic flap securing the left ambient light sensor cable to the logic board.

    • Slide the left ambient light sensor cable to the left and out of its connector.

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 17, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the silver T6 Torx screw securing the ground loop on the display data cable to the casing.

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 18, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single silver T6 Torx screw securing the clear plastic shield over the right ambient light sensor.

    • Lift the clear plastic shield off the right ambient light sensor.

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 19, изображение 1 из 1
    • Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the right thermal sensor cable to the logic board.

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 20, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following 16 screws, moving cables as necessary:

    • One 4.4 mm black Phillips screw to the right of the RAM slot.

    • Nine 4.7 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the lower case.

    • One 6.2 mm black T6 Torx screw on the right side of the left fan.

    • Five 9.4 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the left and right fans.

    When reassembling, make sure all cables are above the logic board before you start putting the screws back in, especially the battery to logic board connector.

    Steve S - Ответить

    And, even MORE especially, the heat sensor cable that attaches to the tiny white connector near the middle-left of the logic board. If you don't you have to take everything apart again when you get back to the step where you reattach all the cables.

    Steve S - Ответить

    Where is the photo please

    zeplin76 - Ответить

    The photo for Step 20 seems to be missing.

    Jason Blanzy - Ответить

    On one of my MBPs, I had to struggle to remove the 4.4 mm black screw located near the RAM slot. Don't know why!

    maxime.abbey - Ответить

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 21, изображение 1 из 1
    • Move the display data cable to the right, removing tape as necessary.

    • Peel up and remove the orange foil shield near the right speaker.

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 22, изображение 1 из 1
    • Rotate the speaker clockwise approximately 30 degrees until it comes free from the logic board.

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 23, изображение 1 из 1
    • Peel up the gray and black speaker wires from the top of the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 24, изображение 1 из 1
    • Peel up the iSight and inverter board cables from above the left fan.

    • Hold the logic board down with one hand and use your other hand to lift the left fan up from its housing. There is a piece of black tape securing the fan to the heat sink. Carefully peel this tape up from the heat sink as you lift the fan up.

    • Place the fan above the Airport card. It is not necessary to entirely remove the fan from the computer.

    When reassembling, the left fan goes under the black tab on the left speaker.

    Steve S - Ответить

    I would recommend actually removing the fan as it is just another flip connector like the other side of the ribbon cable. This way it is less likely to damage the ribbon and leaves the fan out of the way.

    Sebastian Malton - Ответить

    The fan was actually stuck to the cooling fins of the heat-sink. I had to peel up the black tape and VERY CAREFULLY pry the two apart.

    dave - Ответить

    Take GREAT care with the left ambient light sensor cable it is very delicately attached!

    dave - Ответить

    Just like @nokel81, I also hugely recommend to completely remove the fan. It'll save you much trouble dealing with the ribbon cable.

    maxime.abbey - Ответить

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 25, изображение 1 из 1
    • It may be helpful to hold the heat sink in place while removing the right fan.

    • Lift the right fan up while carefully peeling up the tape which secures the fan to the heat sink.

    • Remove the right fan from the computer.

    Step 25: now is a good time to retrieve and put somewhere safe the right ambient light-sensor cover.

    edgroupinc - Ответить

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 26, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the multi-colored power cable from the bottom of the board.

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 27, изображение 1 из 1
    • The logic board is still attached to the computer by one more cable, so don't lift the logic board too far out of the computer yet.

    • Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.

    • To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the old thermal compound from the chips on the back of the logic board. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement: шаг 28, изображение 1 из 1
    • Disconnect the right thermal sensor cable from the bottom of the logic board near the DVI port.

    THIS little component gave me the most aggravation of the whole job! It's too small to get even needle-nosed pliers on, so I ended up spearing it with a dentist's pick and prying it out.

    dave - Ответить

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement, Left Thermal Sensor: шаг 29, изображение 1 из 1
    • Peel back the orange Kapton tape covering the left thermal sensor.

    • Use a spudger to pry the left thermal sensor off the heat sink.

    If you are not swapping the logic board for another one, you can skip this step leave the sensor in place.

    ALAN VOORHEES - Ответить

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150 Heat Sink Replacement, Heat Sink: шаг 30, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift the heat sink out of the computer.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

    Swapping out the heatsink on my 15" MBP seemed to go fine. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. My computer had been shutting down immediately and was unusable. I did some research and it sounded like the heatsink was the problem. After reassembling the computer, when I started it up, there was a little puff of smoke from the back left of the keyboard... and... no screen backlight came on!!!

    The repair solved the problem of my computer constantly shutting down, but now I can only see my screen if I shine a bright light on it.

    Does anyone know what could have happened? If the thermal compound was touching some little wire or something, could it have caused a short?

    jonahwy - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

20 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

iRobot

Участник с: 09/24/09

1 Репутация

Автор 636 руководств

2 Комментариев

I put everything back after replacing the thermal paste in 3 places on the heatsink, but now I have no apple logo on the

display or sound on bootup … what did I miss this time?

Mario da Silva - Ответить

Finished this with the guide laptops running a lot cooler now!

Brent Haynes - Ответить

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