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MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Lower Case: шаг 1, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Ответить

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.

    The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.

    Shahzad Arif -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Ответить

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Ответить

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Ответить

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Ответить

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Ответить

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Ответить

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Ответить

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Ответить

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Ответить

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Ответить

    If you get a puff of smoke removing a bad battery which is going to be replaced it really doesn’t matter, its being replaced.

    robert -

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Ответить

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - Ответить

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - Ответить

    I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    matt rogers - Ответить

    Why do you need to remove the entire logic board??? Seems like if you detach the appropriate cables, remove the speakers, that that should be enough. Removing the entire board doesn’t seem necessary - what am I missing?

    Sandwah - Ответить

    What on earth are you talking about? This has nothing to do with the logic board.

    Trevor Picard -

    The speaker cables are routed under the logic board, or at least the right-side one is. I found that if you can undo the fastenings on one side of the logic board you MIGHT be able to lever it up and work the speaker wire out without taking the entire thing out.

    bobthrollop.redirect -

    MacBook Pro 15“ 2014:

    if the keyboard is connected nothing works. I disconnected the keyboard and the MacBook was starting automatically. An external usb keyboard is not working either. Is something on the logic board defective or is this failure (usb keyboard not working) because of the disconnected keyboard and the system is confused?

    any idea for this?

    ps: the battery is loading

    Pättes - Ответить

    MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2012

    I had the exact same symptom upon initial completion. The keyboard ribbon is actually 2 pieces on mine. There is a plastic cover sheet (that I tried to use as the ribbon the first time) and then there is the actual ribbon sheet. The keyboard works perfectly now that I have the actual ribbon sheet inserted into the the ZIF connector.

    It took entirely too long. I was being very careful. Recovery of the keyboard took me less than an hour. I don’t want to admit how long the original work took me.

    I hope you already have yours working. I was very careful due to not having an alternate device for my son to use if the work had failed. The other likely point of failure for the keyboard is damage to the ribbon as it goes under the battery pack. I caught myself almost poking too hard on that spot.

    EEM -

    You should more clear explain that it is possible to skip the steps 5-35 in the beginning explanation text.

    ( I lost many time to remove parts and there is also more risk to destroy some connectors ?‍♂️)

    Muescha - Ответить

    Like many others here, I completed the battery replacement by skipping steps 5-52 and instead removing the battery cells with the “cheese cutter” method. I made my cutter from 20# braided monofilament tied to two 4” wooden dowels (3/8” diameter). I carefully applied 97% isopropyl alcohol to the taut mono with a small artist’s brush. I took my sweet time cutting through the glue, but all in all not too difficult, just tedious. I was super careful and mindful of the fire and explosion hazard, and took necessary precautions. One thing to be careful of using the cheese cutter method is to be sure the mono is is really under the cell package and not just in front of it before sawing away. There are some tight spaces that make this tricky. Once the battery was out I used the iFixit acetone to clean up the glue leftover by carefully applying drops on the strips and letting capillary action take over. After waiting about five minutes, the glue strips could be picked up with the supplied tweezers.

    Acme Nerd Games - Ответить

    Hallo Leute, hab das Akku eben erfolgreich bei meinem MacBook getauscht ohne alles vorher auszubauen. WICHTIG: kein ACETON zum Kleber lösen verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher kaputt! Auch kein Orangenpower oder ähnliches! Man nehme sich ein dünnes hochzugfestes Nylonband (oder Zahnseide geht auch) und schneide damit die alten Klebepads sägebandmäßig los.

    Also:

    In der Hoffnung mich so klar wie möglich auszudrücken war das Folgende meine Vorgehensweise:

    1. Deckel ab, Achtung die Schrauben mittig unterm Bildschirm sind kürzer!

    2. Akkustecker trennen und vorsichtig umbiegen

    3. die 2 Schrauben, die die Batterie in der Nähe des Steckers halten losschrauben

    4. nun mit zugfestem Band die Akkus rausschneiden

    die im Fix-Kit beigelegten Spatel können dabei unterstützen

    die übrigbleibenden Klebereste können einfach mit einem der Plastikwerkzeuge abgemacht werden: erst ein bisschen mit einem Spatel vorarbeiten, sodass man es mit seinen Fingen greifen kann, dann langsam und Richtung weg vom Logikboard vorsichtig abziehen.

    Jérôme Achilles - Ответить

    Was dann noch an Kleberesten übrigbleibt, kann wegen mir auch bleiben. Sonst mit 1-2 Tropfen Lösemittel auf ein Microfasertuch geduldig nach und nach wegwischen. Und Wirklich nur WENIGE TROPFEN verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher wohlmöglich kaputt.

    5. Mithilfe von Druckluft (2-3 bar! nur) nun sämtlichen Staub vorsichtig rausblasen. VORSICHT: Die Lüfter dürfen sich dabei nicht drehen! Die erzeugen sonst Spannung und grillen wohlmöglich das Logikboard!

    6. Neues Akku (Folien dabei vom Akku entfernen) reinsetzen und gleich an die Schraubenlöcher ausrichten.

    7. Die 2 Schrauben für die Batterie reinschrauben und mit Gefühl anziehen.

    Die packs einzeln auf ihren richtigen Sitz hin prüfen

    8. Wenn alles sauber ist und alles richtig sitzt, dann den Batteriestecker wieder auf das Logikboard stecken

    9. Deckel drauf. Der Deckel muss von alleine, ohne Schrauben richtig in seiner Ausfräsung liegen. Steht irgendeine Ecke hoch, ist darunter was verkehrt.

    Jérôme Achilles - Ответить

    10. Deckel festschrauben. ACHTUNG: 2 Schrauben sind kürzer auf der Seite des Bildschirms!

    Missverständnisse kann ich nicht ausschließen. Darum folgt ihr dieser Anleitung bitte nur auf eigenes Risiko. Ich übernehme keine Haftung für Schäden! Viel Erfolg!

    Jérôme Achilles - Ответить

    Hi guys, just successfully replaced the battery on my MacBook without removing everything first. IMPORTANT: do not use ACETON to loosen the glue! Otherwise, the speakers will be broken! Also no orange power or similar! Take a thin high-tensile nylon tape (or dental floss also works) and cut the old adhesive pads loose. Similarly as with a saw tape.

    So:

    Hoping to express myself as clearly as possible, the following was my procedure:

    1. remove the lid, beware that the screws in the center under the screen are shorter!

    2. disconnect the battery connector and carefully bend it over

    3. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the battery near the plug

    4. now cut out the batteries with tension-proof tape

    the spatulas included in the fix-kit can help you to do this

    the remaining glue can be easily removed with one of the plastic tools: first work a little bit with a spatula so that you can grip it with your fingers, then slowly and carefully pull it off in a direction away from the logic board.

    Jérôme Achilles - Ответить

    Whatever glue remains can stay because of me. Otherwise, patiently wipe away little by little with 1-2 drops of solvent on a microfiber cloth. And really only use FEW DROPS! Otherwise, the speakers may break.

    Now carefully blow out all dust with compressed air (2-3 bar! only). CAUTION: The fans must not rotate! Otherwise, they will generate voltage and possibly fry the logic board!

    Insert the new battery ( thereby remove the foils from the battery) and align it to the screw holes. 7.

    Screw in the 2 screws for the battery and tighten them with feeling.

    Check the packs individually for proper fit

    8. if everything is clean and everything fits correctly, put the battery connector back on the logic board.

    9. put the lid on. The cover must lie correctly in its groove by itself, without screws. If any corner is sticking up, there is something wrong underneath.

    Jérôme Achilles - Ответить

    10. screw the cover. ATTENTION: 2 screws are shorter on the side of the screen!

    I cannot exclude misunderstandings. Therefore, please follow these instructions only at your own risk. I assume no liability for damages! Good luck!

    Jérôme Achilles - Ответить

    Another vote for skipping step 34 after step 4. When I tried to reinstall the new battery, I couldn't get the two step 34 screw holes lined up and still be able to connect the battery cable, so I just left them out. Also, one of the bottom cover screws went AWOL.


    I think that anyone with a badly swollen battery can skip to 34 because the battery has already done a lot of the work. I doubt that I used more than a dozen drops of remover, if that. A bit of patience and careful work with dental floss did the trick. Maybe 30-40 minutes to get the old battery out and another 10 to peel off the remaining adhesive.

    schendel - Ответить

    Like most have suggested here, definitely read through all of these comments! I learned valuable tips from other commenters above that made this repair easy. Also like many others here, I opted to skips the majority of steps, and instead focused on steps 1-4, 36-53. When removing the small screws from the back plate, make sure to keep them organized and away from the computer. Because they are slightly magnetic, one of the tiny top middle screws magnetized to the MagSafe charger port my my Mac and I spent 20 minutes thinking it fell on the floor.

    I had a nylon thread handy to get some of the packs started. Even with applying the adhesive remover, I found the plastic card iFixit provides was not always strong enough to get the pack started. Cheese cutter method was all it needed to get started!

    Make sure to elevate your Mac when applying the remover in whatever direction you want the remover to run. Make sure to test new battery before committing to the new adhesive in case it is faulty!

    Good luck!

    Patrick King - Ответить

    At step 9, when reinstalling the io board cable, make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all. It took me hours to find my mistake...

    Pierre Arnaud - Ответить

    This is just a suggestion or two to help those that might be doing this for the first time.

    1. Separate your screws by the component they came from, i.e. cover screws altogether, fan screws altogether etc. I used PostIt notes turned upside down and put the screws head down to hold them in place and then marked what they were and where they came from.

    2. If you have enough work space put the component next to the screws that were removed. Then you have everything located for an easy reinstall.

    Steve Rowe - Ответить

    The photographs in this guide show two slightly different MacBook Pro 15" Retina machines being disassembled, probably because the guide has multiple authors, and there is a subtle but very important difference between them. Look at the photo in Step 55. This shows the old battery being lifted out of the machine, it has six cells, and the battery connector is located in the centre of the top edge of the battery between cells 3 and 4. Now look at the photo in Step 3. This shows a battery connector which is offset by about 3cm and is above cell 4, not between cells 3 and 4. I believe the offset battery connector is from a mid 2012-early 2013 MacBook and the central battery connector is from a late 2013-mid 2014 MacBook. This is important because if you have the wrong battery, it won't work because the connector won't reach the socket. I found this out to my cost when I bought a battery which the seller told me was the right one, it turned out to be the wrong one, and then I couldn't return it.

    Peter Gray - Ответить

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 2, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Ответить

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Ответить

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Ответить

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Ответить

    There are a couple of small rectangular magnets (~ 1/2” long) that are sitting in pockets near the battery warning label. (One is visible in the Step 3 pic.) One of these left its pocket and was stuck to the bottom cover when I lifted it.

    Jon Scott - Ответить

    i had no idea my battery was swollen until i opened the back case to replace it. the back popped up right away on its own as soon as i took the screws out.

    elyze - Ответить

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Battery Connector: шаг 3, изображение 1 из 1
    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Ответить

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Ответить

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Ответить

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Ответить

    I've found that it's actually better to NOT remove the sticker. I wish I had skipped that 'peel off the sticker part' ugh

    Miles Raymond -

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Ответить

    Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.

    That’s what I did without a problem.

    Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.

    If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.

    This is not a difficult fix.

    Chris - Ответить

    Chris,

    Thank you for providing the advise to skip several steps. I agree that you will have ample space to remove the old battery without removing everything else. I would like to provide a small correction in your directions. You will need to go to step 34 to remove the two screws holding the battery cable versus directly to step 35. You will not be able to completely remove the battery without this step.

    Laurence Rooks -

    I successfully followed all the instructions and all the steps in this guide. I installed the new battery successfully. However, looking back at the process now, I have no idea why I had to take out the memory, air card, speakers, fans, and motherboard to change the battery. None of that was necessary. I did it, and it worked out for me, but honestly, if you just want the battery out, do what Chris and Laurence said above me. Go straight to step 34.

    matthew.toledo - Ответить

    Again, that label will loose its stickyness... order B09WMWH3LM from Amazon so you can reglue - a little smear on both parts, let it dry a few seconds and join them. Done. ... a little will go a long way.

    Alex De Lara - Ответить

    I agree that this entire procedure is unnecessarily complex, unless you’d like to disassemble your entire laptop for the sheer fun of it. The point of all the disassembly is to avoid damage to other components from the adhesive remover. So what I did was not to pry at all, no leverage whatsoever, no strain on the battery cells. Instead, I simply slid the provided plastic scraper cards underneath the batteries from every side possible to begin removing the adhesive. Then I put one drop of the remover on each side of the card at the front edge so it was barely wet, slid it in and worked it deeper bit by bit…. When I got near the speakers, I pulled the screws, lifted them slightly, and wedged one of the picks under the long arm coming off each speaker to give it a few mm clearance from the case, so no remover/alcohol could wick underneath. That worked well for me; the hardest part was getting all the old adhesive off the case, which just took some careful soaking. Good luck! .

    Tor Matson - Ответить

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 4, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 4, изображение 2 из 2
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Ответить

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    The best tool for battery removal for any glued in Apple batteries is a 6" PLASTIC puddy knife 1.5" or 1" in width. It is strong. It has a bit of a sharp edge to cut the glue. It is long enough to slide all the way from top to bottom on the middle cells and from the side to get the 2nd from the right and 2nd from the left out. Wear gloves doing this and eye protection. I've use the Nylon twine method also without removing the logic board, but that is a pain to get started. I just take the screws of of the speaker, lift them up, don't remove and go to work with the puddy knife.

    Chapman Gleason -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Ответить

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Ответить

    Couldn't agree more: use a wire to cut the glue. No need to remove anything else (I did remove the SSD for peace of mind). I used a thin metal wire, without the help of adhesive remover, wrapping it around two sticks to hold it (as pulling with your fingers is painful!). Took longer to clean the residue than to cut the glue!

    I'm not so mad with Apple's repairability considering that this method is viable.

    Eric Rannaud -

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Ответить

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Ответить

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Ответить

    cool.

    removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset

    wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)

    Dennis Britsch -

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Ответить

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Ответить

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Ответить

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Ответить

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - Ответить

    I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.

    P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!

    jyee - Ответить

    Speaking of the power connector screws, I accidentally screwed down the R speaker flat cable on reassembly, which caused the speaker to malfunction. On finding that, I re-routed slightly and the speaker worked fine, this time, but I recommend being extra careful with that cable when putting things back together. You really do have to remove most everything to replace speakers!

    WillUseSpudger -

    Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.

    Jochen Färber - Ответить

    Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.

    jkobli - Ответить

    Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!

    Gerry GU - Ответить

    If you decide to skip to Step 34 or 52 or whatever, at least take note of Step 50. This is the only place I saw reference to the thin metal plate protecting the trackpad. I also skipped to just pulling out the batteries, but this plate came out with the them. I had to carefully pry it off the old batteries, reinstall it, and clean the adhesive residue off it.

    Also, YMMV, but I did not bother with delicately removing the old batteries with fishing line, loosening with solvent, or whatever. They’re going in the trash (ahem, recycling) anyway, so I pried them out with a screwdriver, using the neighboring cell as a fulcrum. 98% of the adhesive remained with the batteries, leaving very little residue in the case.

    Jon Scott - Ответить

    I also forwent the many steps to protect components from the isopropyl alcohol. Blocking the back of the computer up an inch or so meant that any spill would run down and away from the logic board, which actually helped loosen the adhesive. I felt that disconnecting so many parts was a greater risk with no real benefit so long as care was employed in the use of the alcohol. Using some twine in a sawing motion behind each battery got through the adhesive without trauma. The entire repair was actually very simple and fast. The toolkit is excellent and well worth buying from iFixit. The machine is now working really well again. Worth fitting a new SSD now.

    Simon Morice - Ответить

    Info for assembly: you have place it from top into to connector - watch out for the guidegroove/pimple .

    Not horizontal from battery side (as it seems my first try)

    Muescha - Ответить

    Success! I ordered the whole kit and thought I would do all these steps below. But instead I just unplugged the battery and skipped all the steps up to step 36. For getting loose the old glued in battery I used waxed dental floss, it is strong and easily available. I strung it around two wood pieces and wired it around the underside of the batteries, then slowly pulled it downwards till the end. This worked quite well and after 10 minutes all the 6 batteries were free. Now the ‘fun’ part, cleaning up the old adhesive strips. I used the little bottle of alcohol from the kit but found this not the best cleaning solution. Be warned, dont forget that in this position, directly under your downpressing fingers there is the glass trackpad and the display!! I really was scared to break them during this cleaning process. Because of this I switched to LIGHTER FLUID , which is stronger and the process quickly proceeded. Thanks ifixit for your great support.

    Jamba - Ответить

    I had to replace my replacement battery ... luckily the ifixit adhesive isnt that overpowered ... ehem ... I just pulled the old one out softly ... used the plastic card, some force ... and build the hopefully-this-time-lasting-longer-than-4-month-new-battery in ... it saved my evening.

    Arne Fischer - Ответить

    I just finished doing my second battery replacement on one of these. If you're replacing a battery that came from iFixit you can skip straight to step 34 and use cards/spudgers/guitar picks to remove the batteries. The adhesive on the iFixit batteries isn't nearly as tenacious as the original Apple adhesive (though it's plenty to keep the battery stable) and it was easy to pop the battery segments out with a spudger and peel up most of the excess adhesive strips. What little was left came off easily by putting small amounts of the solvent on paper towel and rubbing - no need to pour any amount of solvent into the case.

    lindensmith - Ответить

    When it's time to install the new battery, bend the wires a little more to make a "U" shaped down curve...

    Alex De Lara - Ответить

    The acetone bottle shown runs the risk of dispensing a lot of solvent - which may well damage the speaker plastic. I used a 5 ml plastic pipette to deliver small controlled amounts and had no problems removing the battery without having to take everything else out :-) I also used propanol (isopropyl alcohol) on some kitchen towel to remove the adhesive residue from the case - slightly less effective than acetone, but doesn't dissolve the plastic :-)

    Jon Harris - Ответить

    I took the good advice of all you previous commenters and skipped to step 34.

    I did not have any solvent but it just took some careful patience prying up the battery with a couple plastic cards.

    elyze - Ответить

    I used a guitar string ( high e 9 gauge) and a pair of thin leather gloves (to protect hands ) and after using tweezers to get it behind the batteries I was able to pull thru/ cut thru the adhesive with relative ease .

    brian stoller - Ответить

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, AirPort/Camera Cable: шаг 5, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Ответить

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Ответить

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    Macrepair SF -

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Ответить

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Ответить

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Ответить

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

    Jurgen -

    I looked at these plugs under a 8X lupe, since my 56-year-old eyes are not what they used to be. They are circular, so it’s more a question of just aligning the bottom with the top of the plug rather than angle. If I can do it, someone with better eyes can definitely do it.

    Sam Bortnick -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Ответить

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Ответить

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Ответить

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Ответить

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Ответить

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Ответить

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Ответить

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Ответить

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Ответить

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Ответить

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Ответить

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Ответить

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Ответить

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    Macrepair SF - Ответить

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Ответить

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Ответить

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Ответить

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - Ответить

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - Ответить

    Agreed! Especially if you replace the batttery a second time with a less Apple-like adhesive.

    To prepare for a third time I actually covered parts of the adhesive pads with plastic film on the new battery. I figured that gluing it to the base where it is actually hooked behind the frame makes little sense.

    Cheers to everyone repairing good old things and keeping them alive!

    Jörg -

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - Ответить

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - Ответить

    I found placing the spunger under the part of the connectors AWAY FROM THE WIRE (top and/or side depending on which of the three you’re finessing), and then rocking them gently from side to side pops them out gently.

    MFMauceri - Ответить

    I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .

    Simon Anthony - Ответить

    I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.

    Timothy McDaniel - Ответить

    I skipped steps 5 - 40 and removed the old battery with the plastic card and a palette-knife after heating the adhesive strips cautiously with a hair dryer. After that removing the adhesive strips with the solvent was by far the most time consuming part.

    Martin Zeilinger - Ответить

    so what happens if you damage 1 of the 3 connectors because you didn’t read all the comments first? Does it work at all or just diminished wifi reception?

    Can someone at ifixit update the main instruction page to advise removing the airport card instead of the super fragile cables?

    Brandyn McKibben - Ответить

    YOU DONT NEED ANY OF THIS!

    it is SO stupidly risky to remove all this. Who the HECK wrote this guide?!? Thank God I checked on youtube and found guys who did NOTHING of these steps and simply removed the battery in under 1 h.

    Silly Billy - Ответить

    Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.

    Cristian Caprar - Ответить

    Please be extremely careful, I just ripped out one of the sockets for the cables. I fixed it with Tesa until I can buy a new Airport-Card.

    Josiah Lauer - Ответить

    BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP both when disconnecting the cable connection points and while doing the reconnection. I damaged the J2 connector (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are working just fine, though) while trying to reconnect it to the AirPort card. I’ll suggest, as others have here as well, to not disconnect the cables and just have them connected to the card the entire time as this is, IMHO, a completely unnecessary step to take while doing this whole procedure.

    Rafael Pérez - Ответить

    Well, this is the step that (just through reading these comments) I decided NOT to fix my right speaker. Anytime I have to remove these delicate Airport and Camera wires and connections, I get very nervous. (I've done it before, successfully, on a MacMini [ugh; never again!] - just to replace the two slow HD with SSDs! What a hassle!

    I'll just my headphones or computer speakers through the headphone jack.

    Jonathan Paul Saltzman - Ответить

    I'm an amateur, so what do I know - but to replace a battery I skipped this step, and all other steps until step 36, I've no idea why they include all these other steps for battery replacement. Literally all steps from 5 - 35 aren't needed.

    Andy M - Ответить

    I broke the J0 connector when this reconnecting step. But Wi-Fi and Bluetooth functionality are still alive I don't know the reason why.

    ppop popy - Ответить

    Pretty sure it is fine, but if you want stronger and further WiFi range, that 3rd connector is what gives you that.

    Cary B -

    Why do I have to remove the airport antennas?

    Cary B - Ответить

    Surtout ne pas démonter les 3 connecteurs. Extraire la nappe camera/wifi sans enlever le 3 connecteurs. Les 3 connecteurs sont fragiles et très difficile à remettre. Dans mon cas, 2/3 des connexions sur la nappe sont HS.

    bruno Villers - Ответить

    This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

    There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.

    Donovan Rittenbach - Ответить

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 6, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable's plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • The plug in the photo has six connections, but some models have twelve connections. The process of removing the plug from its socket is the same for both.

    • If the camera cable's plug won't come easily out of its socket on the logic board, fold back the rubber cover over the fan to gain access to the cable, then gently pull on the cable while using the spudger to gently push the plug out of its socket.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the plug out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Ответить

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Ответить

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Ответить

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Ответить

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Ответить

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Ответить

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Ответить

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Ответить

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Ответить

    Did you ever get the fan to stop? how?

    Cyd Trice -

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Ответить

    can you give guidance on the soldering? Im new to it and dont want to burn anything / especially the wrong thing!

    Cyd Trice -

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Ответить

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Ответить

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Ответить

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Ответить

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - Ответить

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - Ответить

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - Ответить

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

    A MAGNIFYING GLASS really helps on this. The cable’s sheathing may need to be pushed back a tad to find a place to get leverace to work the pin out.

    MFMauceri - Ответить

    DO FIRST

    STEP 7 : Untight the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    STEP 8 : Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    So you can easily disconnect the connector.

    KRIS - Ответить

    Tweezers saved me on this one! Take your time and keep trying (gently) if you're still struggling

    Elizabeth Jolly - Ответить

    gently set pointed tweezers at the ears on either side and walk it back toward the fan

    Christa - Ответить

    I have jewellers glasses and they were so helpful. Without them I would have broken plenty of bits. I really recommend getting some magnification for this job, some of the bits are sooooo small!

    Gordon Young - Ответить

    I have a late 2013, and using the tweezers to gently create a gap worked excellently. I used the tip of the spudger to push it out the rest of the way, alternating right and left on the edge exposed by the gap, pushing gently even when it wasn’t apparent there was any movement.

    Troy Hall - Ответить

    The way I did it took less than a minute. Ensure the AirPort card is not in place on the board. Get a pair of tweezers to squeeze the ends of the cables into each holder on the card. Apply pressure on the back of the card and the cable end at the same time. If it works, the cables will swivel easily in their slots. Then put the AirPort cable into the board.

    Michael Stroh - Ответить

    I did it in less than a minute. Used a pair of tweezers. First thing is to take out the AirPort card from the slot. Hold it in one hand while using the tweezers to squeeze each of the cable ends into their sockets. Ensure that you are squeezing the back of the card at the same time as you are clipping in the cable ends. You will see that each cable end will swivel around and not come out of their sockets.

    Michael Stroh - Ответить

    As per other comments, recommend referring to steps 7 and 10 before attempting step 6.
    I found it helpful to remove the airport card first, then use tweezers to gently pull cable 0.5 m from socket, then use pointy end of "spudger" to push connector out of socket.

    Tim Telcik - Ответить

    This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

    There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.

    Donovan Rittenbach - Ответить

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 7, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 7, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 7, изображение 3 из 3
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Ответить

    assume everything is delicate and needs to be worked gently.

    Christa -

    True @cahcadden.

    Worst case you could accidentally tear it off

    (thank god, that didn’t happen to me, but belive me —> it was a close call)

    Shahzad Arif - Ответить

    The glue will be gone, don't fret about it. You can just let it flap back when you are done, you can order this item from Amazon: B09WMWH3LM - contact shoes glue.. A little smear on both parts goes a long way. In my case I already had the stuff from other things I fixed for my wife.

    Alex De Lara - Ответить

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 8, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 8, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 8, изображение 3 из 3
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Ответить

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Ответить

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, I/O Board Cable: шаг 9, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, I/O Board Cable: шаг 9, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, I/O Board Cable: шаг 9, изображение 3 из 3
    • If your I/O Board cable's connectors have notches in the padding, you will need to release a locking lever underneath the notch in order to remove the cable. If this is the case, don't pry up on the connector until the levers are unlatched.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • During reassembly, connect this end first, as it does not flex.

    • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

    • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Ответить

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Ответить

    ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    i did exactly the same mistake! Same procedure as well: keep calm, and start again the tutorial.

    every thing work find now

    Guigui -

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Ответить

    Confirming, these are indeed zifs for me too. My padding has notches indicating location of lever needing to be raised. Obviously lever is tiny, look closely. If your padding is a clean rectangle as shown in guide, you may not have zif sockets here

    hamiltont -

    Confirmed; if the foam pieces are not perfectly rectangular, you should be able to pry back the side of the foam with the cut-away. It folds in half. You can see the lever under the foam. Lift the handle with the spudger, then when it’s pointing straight up (it flips up), you can lift up on the lever (straight up). This should be done for both ends.

    Patryk -

    Confirmed. These instructions (and photos) should definitely be added to the guide!

    Nathan Lucy -

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - Ответить

    While putting back the I/O cable, I assumed that it just connects back in place with pressure, kind of like Velcro. I just pushed the one on the left down first as instructed, and, while doing so, folded down the tiny wire lever under the padding (As someone stated earlier, the wire lever isn’t on all models) along with it. It seem to go back in place fairly easily if you’re careful to align the two sides (the part under the cable with the part on the logic board). A a novice, I think this warrants being addressed in more detail. Kinda had to do this intuitively.

    Sam Bortnick - Ответить

    There is adhesive under the cable. I twisted the cable parallel to the flat fan surface to break it without bending the cable.

    Nathan Lucy - Ответить

    Yeah, and a strong adhesive.

    throughout all the repairs i have on my MacBook, I have put changing the right fam on the side, just because I was thinking there will be no way of removing the cable without damaging it.

    Soufiane Ezzine -

    I hope I didn't mess up (I'm still dismantling my MBP) but I didn't detach the cable from the fan housing. Disconnected from both ends, and it appeared contented to flop there in space. Fan was then removed without incident

    Fredrick Mezger - Ответить

    you need to lift one side of the rubber/foam cover to reveal the lock

    Alex De Lara - Ответить

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Airport Card: шаг 10, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

    I don't see why this is necessary just to remove the logic board...

    Miles Raymond - Ответить

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 11, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 11, изображение 2 из 2
    • Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.

    • Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Ответить

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Ответить

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Ответить

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Ответить

    I will add to what others have said about lifting the card lightly using a spudger to get the adhesive to let go of the board. Otherwise the card may get damaged.

    jeiboussa - Ответить

    Yes. LIFT up slightly on one end to clear retaining pin before tugging.

    MFMauceri - Ответить

    Yes. Slight lift to release adhesive and then pull out.

    David Choy - Ответить

    Highly recommend attaching to your new logic board right away.

    bmellman - Ответить

    I don't see why this is necessary just to remove the logic board...

    Miles Raymond - Ответить

    I found it helpful to use the flat end of a "spudger" to gently lift airport card from the main board prior to unplugging.

    Tim Telcik - Ответить

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 12, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 12, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Ответить

    My retaining flap just came off. Can you confirm your fan doesn't need it to function??

    Peter Ungacta, Jr. -

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Ответить

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Ответить

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Ответить

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - Ответить

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - Ответить

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - Ответить

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - Ответить

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

    very appreciated!

    Alexis Quintana -

    Thank you… that vid is crisp!

    Erich Hentschel -

    Incredibly poor instructions!!! Thanks to the incorrect wording, I have just ruined the fan connector. There is NO lever. The cable gently slid out, after I borked it. I’m done with IFIXIT and the $@$*!& information. How about a little video clip inserted here. You guys can do better!

    Lorne Shantz - Ответить

    Can anyone share how to put the retaining flap back onto the connector? Has anyone’s fan worked without it? My hinged retaining flap just slid off and it's extremely difficult to place it back on.

    Peter Ungacta, Jr. - Ответить

    I found it easier to slide the flat end of the spudger tool in from the left side of the cable, near the 90 degree bend.

    Aimee Ness - Ответить

    There’s no need to take off all this stuff. I’ve just disconnected the battery, used the glue remover and a dental floss to pull off the battery ✌?

    matteo lepore - Ответить

    These instructions are pretty lacking for this step. In my case, for both the left and right fans, I did not need to flip up a retaining flap. I did not need to remove the airport card as I could sneak the ribbon cable out from underneath the airport card. There was a tiny bit of adhesive on the ribbon cable. Once that was worked free, I could slide the ribbon cable out of the connector (toward the screen hinge).

    Louis Kreusel - Ответить

    To all those who complain about the quality of instructions given here, I find them so simple and clear, if you have problems following them you should be letting a repair shop or Apple do the repairs.

    robert - Ответить

    I can recommend, after lifting ZIF clip, gently slide cable out of socket using "spudger" and/or need nose pliers.

    Tim Telcik - Ответить

    I destroyed it. Now when the ZIP socket is off the board. Will I have chance to repair with a new or go on only with one fan function. It is so tiny to soldering that I guess the contact legs will connect together and cause a short circuit

    WeDoIt - Ответить

    Took me step 28 to figure out the latch. its the rear of the connector

    Alex De Lara - Ответить

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 13, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

    With most parts, its easier to leave the screws in the holes parts they come off with, and have small containers or a layout to do this with so each major part does not get mixed up - too many similar but different screws!

    AES - Ответить

    What I did to separate the different screws, is to take the top of the ifixit essentials-kit (which has lots of small spaces to hold screws) and picked a row of these spaces, which I marked for the cooling-fan screws. So basically I just sort them by lenth: The 5 mm on the top space, underneath it the 4,4mm, and at last the 3,9mm. That way I didn’t loose track, because I was working in tandem with this instruction.

    Shahzad Arif - Ответить

    In my case, the 3.9mm screw was connected to a spacer that sat flush to the motherboard. I misplaced this spacer and had to take the computer apart twice to find it… Make sure not to lose it if you have one!

    Daniel Kirk - Ответить

    I was able to stop at this step and jump ahead to removing the battery. I did this based on the fact that the batteries were extremely swollen and I could see that the adhesive strips below were already separated from the bottom quite a bit. In retrospect my wife had complained that the computer ran very hot in the vicinity of the batteries (not sure why) but that heat apparently diminished the adhesive properties and allowed me to slowly pry the cells up while using a spudger to push between the case and batteries. Saved twenty some odd steps by doing it that way. If the batteries weren’t swollen I could not have done it this way. NOTE: When ordering just the battery adhesive remover is NOT included. I did not order it because I have acetone here and felt I did not need the iFixit remover.

    Terry Angelli - Ответить

    The inner spacers on both fans that appear to have been SMT'd to the logic board fell off. I used a light adhesive to put them back but be cautious not to drop them if yours detach also.

    L. Hille - Ответить

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 14, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Left Fan: шаг 15, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Ответить

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Ответить

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Ответить

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Ответить

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 16, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • When reinstalling the fan and its screws, don't fully torque the screws until you've first installed all of them loosely, so that the fan can move a little and position itself properly as you insert the screws into their threaded standoffs.

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Ответить

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - Ответить

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Ответить

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Ответить

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Ответить

    The nut of the 3.9 mm T5 screw (marked with red circle) seams to be glued or soldered onto the pcb. On my laptop, the connection broke so the nut is rattling on the pcb making a sick noise.

    Does anybody have an idea, how to best fix the nut on the pcb again?

    Marcel Reschke - Ответить

    Marcel: The 3.9mm screw threads into a metal standoff (not a nut) that's glued to the logic board. If this standoff comes off of the board, a drop of superglue may allow it to stay in place, but to position the standoff properly while re-gluing it, first reattach it to the fan with its screw, then place a drop of superglue on the bottom end of the standoff, then drop the fan back into place and apply a little pressure to the top of the screw to help the superglue stick to the logic board.

    johnsawyercjs - Ответить

    "One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar" (red) .. mine had no collar; I noticed on closing up.

    Gavin Eadie - Ответить

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 17, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 17, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 17, изображение 3 из 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

    • Lift the left fan out of the device.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easier to connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Ответить

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Ответить

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Ответить

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Ответить

    That happened to me too! Little pieces of copper came off but I couldn’t see where from . I hope it’ll work after I reassemble.

    Sam Bortnick -

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - Ответить

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - Ответить

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - Ответить

    After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

    Karsten Hullebeck - Ответить

    I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    Left fan was 400% harder to remove due to adhesive. Use the opening tool to gently pry the cable little by little and eventually it will come up. The adhesive pad is the same size and position as the foam pad so concentrate your efforts there

    Aleksis G Williams - Ответить

    Heads up that the ribbon cable slides into the connector on the board like a little tiny SD card.

    Louis Kreusel - Ответить

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, SSD: шаг 18, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Ответить

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Ответить

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Ответить

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Ответить

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Ответить

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - Ответить

    On my MacBookPro11,3 this screw was 2.8mm long and had a slightly thicker thread.

    lochotzke - Ответить

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 19, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 19, изображение 2 из 2
    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

    where can I buy a 1 or 2 TB SSD? I think it isn’t possible using a SSD like I build in my MacBook Pro mid 2012?

    Chris - Ответить

    You can get 1TB or 2TB SSD from OWC macsales.com

    https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ssd/owc/...

    Macrepair SF -

    Hi,

    I intent to purchase a 2 TB ssd for my late 2013 MBP. I read some comments, that the mac reaacted weirdly and was not 100 % compatible with the ssd (not waiking up properly, macstart sound sounded twice, sometimes freezing…). Can you confirm these issues, and are there any workaroundas for them?

    Secondly I plan to restore the time machine from my broken late 2011 MBP. Since you recommended late os for the ssd upgrade I was wondering whether If I restore a time machine backup with an older os if my ssd will cause problems then because the drivers are suddenly missing?

    Thanks and best regards

    ramón

    ramón - Ответить

    I did this first thing after disconnecting the battery and I'd suggest everyone to do the same! Save your data!

    My battery was bulging and it is obviously quite dangerous. But anyways, any battery in seemingly good conditions can be dangerous as well.

    So in order to prevent a massive data loss along a very long crying session, I opened the back, disconnected the batt as per the guide instructions and then took the SSD off.

    So in case something had gone wrong and the battery started smoking forcing me to throw my laptop off the window, burying it in sand or the whole thing starting to burn, I would've already had a way to access my data by setting the SSD aside first thing.

    It is actually no joke when working with batteries, specially when they're bulging like mine was. Check videos on youtube and see how volatile these things can be!

    Kudos to the iFixit team, this is a great guide!

    Ismael Abufon - Ответить

    Ismael: That's a good idea, but it's also a good idea to back up the SSD before beginning the Macbook disassembly procedure. This way you'll have two copies of your data, and you can plug the backup into another Mac if you need access to it before you've got your Macbook reassembled, especially if something goes wrong during reassembly that prevents you from using your Macbook for a while.

    johnsawyercjs - Ответить

    Do i need to reinstall macos when i change the ssd? And is the data on the mac will change when changing it?

    Azkap - Ответить

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, I/O Board: шаг 20, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, I/O Board: шаг 20, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Ответить

    Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Ответить

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - Ответить

    gently use tips of tweezers at either side to walk it out

    Christa - Ответить

    It is much more easy to do step 21 before step 20 - this cable is more easy to remove

    Also if you assemble then do step 20 before step 21 - it is more easy to place the cable into the connector

    Muescha - Ответить

    I found it easier to just use my finger nail to release the clamping lever. Then the spudger to ease it out.

    billbonney - Ответить

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 21, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 21, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 21, изображение 3 из 3
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

    • On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.

    • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Ответить

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Ответить

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Ответить

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Ответить

    I believe, the IO Board can stay where it is, for logic board replacement..?

    smirgle - Ответить

    Yes, I replace motherboard without touch IO Board

    Александр Гращенков -

    On a 2014.5 design, these instructions should be revised on this process. The heat pipe needs to be removed first if one were to remove the I/O CCA, Reason being, the CCA is installed first into the case and then the heat pipe contact tab lays atop the CCA under the plastic injection molded part. This injection molded piece part secures the tab to the CCA to ensure optimal contact thus, ensuring heat is wicked away from the CCA.

    So when I see comments regarding how it is easier to install than remove, that is an indicator that the user was unaware of how to correctly assemble this component thus, the CCA top side substrate is sitting below the heat pipe tab vs. the other way around.

    This will induce a thermal issue on the I/O CCA and also, possibly short out the board when the conformal coating and painted surface of the heat pipe wears off due to vibration when cables are connected.

    While I like these instructions, I would overhaul them and revise them.

    Christopher McKenna - Ответить

    Yes, removing the screw near the heat sink really did make it come out easily!

    David Choy - Ответить

    Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you’re going the be asked to remove on step 29.

    Rafael Pérez - Ответить

    As per comments above, I found it mandatory to remove the extra silver screw near the heat sink, which locked the logic board.

    Hence, the instructions for this step were very relevant:

    "On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal."

    Tim Telcik - Ответить

    If you have a Transcend JetDrive installed, it needs to be removed. It was just so familiar and form-fitting that I forgot it was in there. Removing it made the I/O board suddenly so easy to remove...

    Fredrick Mezger - Ответить

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Logic Board Removal: шаг 22, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Logic Board Removal: шаг 22, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - Ответить

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - Ответить

    Note that you should SLIDE not pull these out. Just broke one of them.

    andershegelund - Ответить

    On this model they should be pried straight up from the board as instructed. If your connector looks different from what’s shown in the photos, proceed with caution, verify your model number and make sure you’re following the corresponding guide.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I totally missed the pry STRAIGHT UP instruction. I tried to slide one out and it sheared from the board, taking one copper trace with it. Poop!

    Peter Kaczkowski - Ответить

    On MID-2014 Retina, they definitely lift up and out.

    MFMauceri - Ответить

    On LATE-2013 Retina, they definitely lift up and out

    KRIS - Ответить

    This really was helpfully! Thanks!

    Jan Dreyer -

    VERY HELPFUL. Thank you.

    Rafael Pérez -

    Yes. This is tricky. Be VERY CAREFUL. I damaged it. I’m afraid this MacBook is RIP.

    Richard Cacciato - Ответить

    This was tricky. I pried up from where the cable enters the connector with a very small flat headed screwdriver - no spudgers to hand!

    aaron.sarginson - Ответить

    I can confirm. you LIFT UP on Mid-2014.

    Costantino - Ответить

    Yes, LIFT UP with 2,3GHz Late 2013

    diplomat3000 - Ответить

    As others have said, this was pretty nerve-wracking to release. I used the pointed end of a spudger and gently pried up on the plastic corner where the wires go into the connector. Not the wires themselves, but the plastic. I wasn’t sure it would work without breaking the connector until it precariously gave way from the board.

    justinlyon - Ответить

    Mid-2015 they lift up

    Aaron - Ответить

    What's the best way to reinsert the cable into the socket when re-installing?

    footeking - Ответить

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 23, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 23, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 23, изображение 3 из 3
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer Bart - Ответить

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had the same probem. After googling patiently I stumbled upon the tip to use some tape to lead the cable and to apply a little more pressure than you might be comfortable with. I used a piece of tape (the brown kind you use for mail), put it on the cable and led the connector into its socket. In order get it all the way I really had to press on the cable from the top while at the same time dragging it forcefully into the socket. I had to repeat it three times until it was fully in, but it worked.

    Sergio Weigel -

    For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.

    Parker Young - Ответить

    For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.

    Mike Bachman - Ответить

    the tape actually helps remove the cable. Just hold the tape and pull it back towards the battery. The ribbon cable will slide right out. Easy. No tools needed.

    Pranav Singanapalli - Ответить

    I’m so curious about the connector besides it, to the left. It wasn’t used at all, and what was the purpose of it?

    Anders thomasen - Ответить

    This is a complete guess on my part, but I think it’s there for test purposes, before the logic board is actually installed. Given that it’s right next to the keyboard connector, it might be an easy/fast way for a test jig to connect a keyboard simulator without messing with the keyboard connector that is causing so much trouble for all of us… :-)

    yeliab -

    Same as in

    STEP 12

    the right fan ribbon - disconnect cable ZIF socket.

    Remark :

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa

    KRIS - Ответить

    Irinonically pulling up the adhesive also flipped up the retaining clip. Not sure if that was supposed to happen, but that was me experience, lol.

    David Smith - Ответить

    The adhesive of the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector is no longer sticking. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it to stick back on there?

    christian araya - Ответить

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 24, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

    After this step I think the author must add a connector that is not mentioned (visible on step 18 and 19), between de SSD connector and the GPU (I suppose)

    Quique García - Ответить

    The only connector I see at that location is the speaker connector—scroll up two steps from here and you’ll find instructions for disconnecting it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I agree with Quique…there’s another connector, running toward the battery, visible in slide 19. 6-wire, immediately adjacent to SSD connector.

    Joel Black - Ответить

    The picture above looks slightly different than my Late-2013 MBP. The grey sticker with 4R7 is further to the side.

    justinlyon - Ответить

    justinlyon: Different placement of some parts on the logic board is normal with different logic board speeds, and differences between the Late 2013 and Mid 2014 logic boards.

    johnsawyercjs - Ответить

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 25, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    macbook has been rotated 180 degrees here

    Costantino - Ответить

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 26, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

    I may have made the mistake you warned about: “Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.” is there a way to replace what was broken?

    William McEntee - Ответить

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 27, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 27, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Be extremely careful in this step as the pins of this cable are EXTREMELY fragile. The leftmost pin bent over the neighboring one and its tip broke which lead the display to not work at all!

    Thanks God, I could realign it again and the display got on again :)

    When removing this cable pull it backwards by holding the hinge from its middle. DO NOT WALK THE CABLE FROM THE SIDES as this leads to breaking the terminal pins like what happened with me. When the cable has never been removed before, it behaves like something glued so when you try to walk it from one side, it seems to not move, which leads you to automatically push harder causing the pins on the terminals to bend or even break.

    Michael Azer - Ответить

    I don’t know why, but my 15” Late 2013 had some sort of protector covering the lock, so I used tweezers to grab the thing and pull up the cable lock and it worked seamlessly.

    Rafael Pérez - Ответить

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 28, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.

    • The location of this screw may vary between models.

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - Ответить

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 29, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

    There is another screw near the yellow one, the 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw. I had to remove that too rather than force things.

    Simon Anthony - Ответить

    Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you were asked to remove on step 21.

    Rafael Pérez - Ответить

    it should be noted that the silver 3.8 screw (blue) is actually the 3.5 screw from step 21 if you already removed it!

    Jessica Dempsey - Ответить

    Any suggestions on how to find a tiny screw that fell into the works? I dropped the 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw, and haven’t found it yet.

    William McEntee - Ответить

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 30, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 30, изображение 2 из 2
    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    • Disconnecting the MagSafe 2 connector can be difficult. If you are only removing the logic board to temporarily get it out of the way, such as for a battery replacement, you may find it easier to simply remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board, and then remove the logic board and MagSafe board together.

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - Ответить

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Hello, i did it the same, and it was more easy after that.

    SebioJazz -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Ответить

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - Ответить

    Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).

    Mike Bachman - Ответить

    My logic board is stuck on the audio, USB, and TB connectors and the chassis. Turned out it was connectors near the battery connector catching the logic board.

    Joseph Gorse - Ответить

    There’s one more connect next to the SSD socket, that I can’t find mentioned, and is hard to disconnect.

    Steven DeRose - Ответить

    Yes… @StevenDeRose! I had a really hard time getting that connector off because I couldn’t figure out the release mechanism. I ended up prying the connector off the board. %#*@. I guess it’s a speaker connector!!!! Major flaw in the instructions….!!!

    Peter Kaczkowski - Ответить

    Rather important note: I have this model (Retina, 15”, Mid-2014, MacBookPro11,3) and the entire guide worked up until this step. What failed? Somehow, my 2014 model had the 2015’s headphone jack. Mid-cycle update, perhaps?

    So rather than lift the logic board out as shown, I had to lift the right edge and pull it away from the left edge (backing the headphone/USB/TB/MagSafe ports out of their bays, if you will). And just like in the photos from the 2015 guide, the headphone port came along, attached to the logic board, unlike how this guide seems to show the headphone port remaining behind.

    Hope this helps anyone else confused! If you get here and can’t seem to lift/rotate the logic board out as shown, try popping over to the 2015 guide and scroll down to that respective section, then pop back here once the board is out!

    Justin - Ответить

    weird… same thing here…

    Gabriel Lage -

    Thanks for this tip. Super helpful!

    Jackie Malling -

    Thanks, Justin! Without your comment I wasn’t able to progress.

    Laszlo Varga -

    I found it tricky to reinstall the logic board to its proper position. Make sure no cables get clamped, e.g. the keyboard backlight cable which I oversaw the first time.

    It also helps to pay attention to exact alignment of the headphone jack, and to all screw positions.

    Karl Müller - Ответить

    I found I had to lift the logic board like 15 degrees to unhook the thunderbolt ports from the case. Justin is right, go look at the 2015 one and then come back!

    Maxfield Feigelman - Ответить

    I insisted in removing the connector from the board and I sort of helped myself using the Jimmy tool that is sold by iFixit and, being careful enough, one can get this done without any damage to any of the parts.

    Rafael Pérez - Ответить

  31. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 31, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 31, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 31, изображение 3 из 3
    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

    • While the logic board and fans are removed, use a can of compressed air and a soft, non-static brush to remove dust and other debris from the upper case and the logic board, particularly from the fan exhaust openings along the rear edge of the upper case.

    • When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables, and the two rubber heat sink/fan covers, are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.

    • Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - Ответить

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - Ответить

    I’d not even seen that pic until I came here to add my comments. Very good point !

    Simon Anthony -

    Careful: The picture shows nine red boxes, but if you just count, you might miss a cable, because there actually are ten of them. The I/O board data cable may not be at risk of getting stuck under the board, so it’s entirely logical to not put a box around it, but if you simply count loose cables before putting the screws back in, you will easily count it while missing another less prominent cable (like the keyboard backlight connector, which can be easy to overlook).

    Lars - Ответить

    When re-inserting the board it is important to make sure that the tiny clips on the USB and DVI ports are on top of the aluminum housing lip. If they are under it, then it is not possible to move the board over toward the DVI port side….

    Jurgen - Ответить

    When putting the board back in, double check that tape that covers the keyboard ribbon cable. I thought I had it over the board but it was just the tape over the board, not the cable.

    Austin Hodges - Ответить

    I did the same thing.

    Shane -

    I thought this was a guide for the battery only?

    Handy to have this extra info, I was confused at first, until I started reading the comments. :)

    Cary B - Ответить

  32. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Speakers: шаг 32, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Speakers: шаг 32, изображение 2 из 2
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

    • The speaker is secured to the case with some light adhesive.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Ответить

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Ответить

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Ответить

    Same question as Biswajit, I can’t find the 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw (yellow one) on my mid 2012 MBP...

    Daniel Gandolfo -

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Ответить

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

    I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.

    To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.

    Andreas H. Parlow - Ответить

    Yeah, it seems that all this complexity is just about protecting the speakers from the acetone… a different solvent might have saved me a LOT of work, and damage to my speaker connection.

    Peter Kaczkowski - Ответить

    The speakers may stick so be prepared to gently force any adhesive free.

    Eddie Reyes - Ответить

    @pkay What is so bad about getting acetone near the speakers? Assuming we're a little careful and it evaporates before we switch on again. It won't melt them or something?

    Richard - Ответить

  33. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 33, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 33, изображение 2 из 2
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

    • The speaker is secured to the case with some light adhesive.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Ответить

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    I used the flat spudger to loosing the glue underneath the speaker to remove it.

    KC89 - Ответить

    My left Speaker makes ugly noise. do I really have to do all the steps or is it possible to just remove the speaker… I guess, it’s necessary.

    Gerd Herzog - Ответить

    The speaker has quite a lot of plastic that goes under the board at the top end. There is no option but to remove the covering parts. The notes show which steps can be skipped.

    Simon Anthony -

    I forgot to run the speaker wire the motherboard. Can it create interference and make the speakers croate?

    Riccardo Nerani - Ответить

  34. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement, Battery: шаг 34, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

    I also skipped from step#4 to step #34. I was very careful with the adhesive remover application to keep it from oozing into the speakers and other components by keeping the MB tilted and let gravity do the work. I also took the precaution of protecting display with aluminum foil. I used a plastic putty knife as well to help dislodge the battery cells. Removing adhesive remnants was a PITA. I used the plastic putty knife & liquid adhesive remover to scrape that stuff off. Full process took about 1 HR. Currently calibrating battery. Looks like this repair was a success!

    Macrepair SF - Ответить

    I wish i read this comment 2 hours ago….

    David Pearce -

    It is not so easy to reintall the battery board, i had to push the battery hard.

    I am not completely satisfied

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Ответить

    Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.

    Cristian Caprar - Ответить

    Perfect process_ many thanks. Runing back well_

    Alain BECTARD - Ответить

    at this point, having skipped removing All The Things and fresh off step 4, i pried up the battery with a couple plastic cards. harrowing but less harrowing than the alternative. i was being careful not to press in ways that could harm my display. it took patience and was a huge pain but it worked pretty quickly. cleaned up the remaining adhesive with 70% isopropyl alcohol.

    elyze - Ответить

  35. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 35, изображение 1 из 1
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    If you got to this step just to realize you don’t have aluminum foil at hand, consider using a (clean) wrapping paper from a bag of snacks.

    Lars - Ответить

    I think this step could have come a lot sooner.

    Skylar Bolton - Ответить

    It's to do with the the liquid adhesive remover, when replacing the battery.

    The foil is only for this point in the guide. :)

    Cary B -

    Maybe it is safer and easier to remove the screen completely?

    maiksicks - Ответить

    Safer? Probably. Easier? Not at all.

    maccentric -

  36. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 36, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 36, изображение 2 из 2
    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

  37. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 37, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 37, изображение 2 из 2
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

    ACHTUNG: Die im Kit enthaltenen Einmal-Handschuhe bieten nur einen bedingten Schutz gegen Aceton (Durchbruchzeit etwa 10 Minuten)!

    Eine höhere chemische Beständigkeit gegenüber Aceton haben Schutzhandschuhe aus Butylkautschuk.

    ___ - Ответить

  38. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 38, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 38, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 38, изображение 3 из 3
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    I did not use the adhesive remover. I found that the guitar pic, when forced, could go through the adhesive. It was not long enough, so using a credit card’s corner and forcing it slowly in, and back and forth, I was able to break the adhesive. I assisted this with a very fine fishing line (dental floss would be better) and a sawing motion under the battery. I did not use hard force. I just took my time and kept lifting up on the battery.

    There will be residual adhesive remaining on the computer’s chassis from the battery.. For the most part, this can be removed by a combination of using the card or iFixit guitar pic and pushing against the remaining adhesive. Working at with the fingers will complete the job.

    Just take your time….

    Larry_Rymal - Ответить

    Do not be afraid to use the adhesive remover to loose the battery and the more the better. The wetter the adhesive is, the easier it will release with either the cards or the picks. It will also make it easier to remove any adhesive that is left after removing the battery pack

    Steve Rowe - Ответить

    The fixit kit I got had a sharp piercing needle by the bits in the screwdriver works perfect to puncture the adhesive top!

    John Price - Ответить

  39. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 39, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 39, изображение 2 из 2
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  40. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 40, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 40, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 40, изображение 3 из 3
    Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
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    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

  41. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 41, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 41, изображение 2 из 2
    • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  42. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 42, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 42, изображение 2 из 2
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

  43. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 43, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 43, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 43, изображение 3 из 3
    • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

    • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  44. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 44, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 44, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 44, изображение 3 из 3
    • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

    • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

    • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

    • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

    • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

    • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

  45. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 45, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 45, изображение 2 из 2
    • With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a few drops of adhesive remover down the center line between the two middle battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  46. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 46, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 46, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 46, изображение 3 из 3
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  47. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 47, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 47, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 47, изображение 3 из 3
    • Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.

  48. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 48, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 48, изображение 2 из 2
    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell.

    • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

    The warning about not damaging the keyboard ribbon cable references the cable that is below the rectangular (covered) circuit board that the battery connector comes out of. Below this covered chip (at the top-center of the two central battery packs), the keyboard ribbon cable runs over a small edge and down to where the track pad is. The black cover that the battery packs sit on protects the track pad and this ribbon, but it’s still VERY possible to damage or otherwise destroy the ribbon cable. I would recommend staying away from a 2cm^2 area at the very top-center of the two central battery packs (closest to the battery/main board connector). This will help prevent the plastic cards from suddenly breaking through the glue and striking the ribbon cable if you apply too much force.

    Patryk - Ответить

  49. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 49, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 49, изображение 2 из 2
    • Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.

  50. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 50, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 50, изображение 2 из 2
    • Remove your book or foam block.

    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.

  51. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 51, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 51, изображение 2 из 2
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

  52. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 52, изображение 1 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 52, изображение 2 из 3 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 52, изображение 3 из 3
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell.

    • Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

  53. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 53, изображение 1 из 1
    • Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:

    • Lift and flip the two outer battery cells to clear access to the remaining adhered edge of the center-left battery cell.

    • Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

    • Remove the first card that you inserted under this battery cell in the previous step.

  54. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 54, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 54, изображение 2 из 2
    • With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.

    I have managed to slice through the trackpad cable on the final step of battery removal.

    Can the trackpad be replaced without having to replace the whole system case?

    Darrell Haslam - Ответить

    Yes you can replace the track pad. there is an metal sheet that you’ll need to gently pry up, and a couple screws that hold the track pad. fixit does sell the part.

    allenhild - Ответить

    When removing the final battery cells I accidentally pulled up the trackpad base as well. I didn’t realize I had done this until the new battery was installed and clicking on the trackpad wasn’t working. Fortunately I was able to remove the trackpad base from the old battery and carefully lift the new one to slide it back in. Just something to watch out for.

    Jason Wells - Ответить

  55. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 55, изображение 1 из 2 MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement: шаг 55, изображение 2 из 2
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient. While scraping, take care not to damage the trackpad cable.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Opération effectuée ce jour.

    Ai suivi pas à pas toutes les étapes, c’est LONG, mais c’est BON !

    Merci pour le tutu TRES éclairant.

    H Max - Ответить

    HELP !!!

    Ai un souci : malgré cette manipulation (ci-dessous) et le reset SMC, la batterie passe de 47% à 7% subitement : que faire ???

    Merci

    Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    H Max - Ответить

    Bonjour,

    Je suis désolée d’apprendre que la batterie ne fonctionne pas comme prévu ! Si vous l’avez achetée chez iFixit, adressez-vous au service client qui se fera un plaisir de vous aider.

    Bonne journée,

    Claire (iFixit EU)

    Claire Miesch -

    One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - Ответить

    Battery works great but I don’t know if I damaged trackpad or I just need to open and realign. Adhesive remover got under metal plate behind trackpad. So metal plate came up. I cleaned and put back but I did not glue in place.

    there is a small hole in metal plate - what is it supposed to align to? (No screws came from it)

    below comment mentioned a piece of plastic. Plastic under the two center battery packs is adhered to the packs, so I don’t think I can get it up without tearing it.

    “One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - 08/19/2019”

    Some guidance (because I’m not happy about pulling the battery out again), is appreciated. Thank you

    Lisa -

    I really appreciate this tip! My 15-inch, Mid 2014 MBP had a metal plate but it was exactly where you said it would be. I would have completely missed it if not for this comment, thanks!

    Adam G -

    As other commenters noted there is (was!) a plate between the battery and trackpad. Mine was a metal plate but others have said theirs was plastic. Mine was damaged (bent) when it came out with the battery. I put everything back together without realizing I was leaving it out. I am not sure it's purpose. I am having no issue with computer or trackpad, the replacement appears to be a success. I wonder if a problem may occur over time without that plate in place, however.

    elyze -

    After commenting that I had left the piece out, I opened the macbook back up and put it back.. I realized if nothing else it is between the battery adhesive and the trackpad cable, protecting that cable, and it's probably Not Good for it to be adhered directly to the battery.. luckily the battery adhesive was still not very set and it was easy enough to pry back out. I had to take it all the way out to fit the metal plate back in. Took me another hour or so,

    The metal plate was a little bent as I had mentioned, and there was a lot of balled up adhesive from the battery and on the other side a different kind of thin clear adhesive that i scraped off as much as i could and rubbed off the rest with alcohol. I pressed it down flat and some of the old adhesive helped keep it stuck down. You can tell which way it goes by making the hole align to the position you see in the photo in the guide, and note that the lip on the one side goes down. Up and running again, it is a success.

    elyze -

    Re: Mid-2014 15” MBP…

    Soak a paper towel with adhesive remover, and lay it over the residual adhesive in the METAL parts of the cse, and you can remove much more easily (try razor blade). On plastic trackpad base, use plastic tool.

    Also, the torx screw in the center of the trackpad base is your click adjustment. You may want to calibrate that BEFORE putting in the new battery.

    MFMauceri - Ответить

    Removing the logic board is completely unnecessary in my opinion!

    The risk of damaging the board and its components by removing it is much greater, than spilling adhesive remover over the board - if applied correctly.

    To be on the save side, use some paper to cover the logic board and “seal” it of with some electrical tape or something else.

    Then simply apply some adhesive remover periodically along the tip of the included spatula and carefully work your way under each cell of the battery-pack.

    Works great and the pack is removed in under 10 minutes!

    Solution Clinic - Ответить

    EXACTLY ! it is SO stupidly risky to remove all this. Who the HECK wrote this guide?!? Thank God I checked on youtube and found guys who did NOTHING of these steps and simply removed the battery in under 1 h.

    Silly Billy -

    100% agree. I stopped at the first logic board piece thinking I was missing something. My adhesive was already loose due to heat and expanding batteries so I was able to pry it up without any issue. Glad I didn’t start removing everything first!

    Joseph Costello -

    If you ever need to remove the logic board etc, you'll be thankful for this step.

    I was confused at first thinking where the hell is the battery removal guide, LOL.

    It isn't clear from the title and the logic board etc should be its own guide. :)

    Cary B -

    Please add the trackpad replacement to this video. I replaced the trackpad and the click doesn’t work so there must be something I missed.

    Catherine Learoyd - Ответить

    Battery removal was really easy on a mid 2014 model. Nicely written section. One thing noted was the trackpad. It is a stainless steel metal plate vs. being plastic. Secondly, the interesting aspect is the entire plate is coated with something. It is not from the battery adhesive strips. This appears to be either an adhesion promoter or, it is a non-conductive coating used for anti corrosion or, possibly to prevent shorting across the two cell pouches when used as a possible failsafe mechanism.

    This coating however, is easily dissolved with Acetone. I don’t know if the 2013 model or early 2014 model sports this design but, a mid-2014 model, SN C02P67C1G3QC, has the stainless steel trackpad underside.

    To the user who informed people to place paper over the logic board, that is a very bad idea due to ESD reasons. Paper is an ESD generator and can induce failure into the CCA components. Please use an ESD bag - in particular, the silver colored shielding bags and use ESD safe tape as tape is a huge ESD generator.

    Christopher McKenna - Ответить

    Hi, I replaced my batteries on my MacBook Pro and I didn’t do most of the risky tasks listed. To remove the batteries I used 1mm steel wire with pieces of wood wrapped round either end to act as handles. The wire acted like a wire cheese cutter. No glue remover was required and the device worked remarkably well.

    Clarence McAteer - Ответить

    After reading through this very informative guide & having played with IE repaired many Macbook Pros since day 1 I decided not to remove all the hardware… Do I recommend this for the fait of heart No let me repeat NO!!! I happen to be in the Philippines at the time & the village I was in is a long ways from anywhere, I did get a new battery that was a real blessing… The old battery had swelled up no track pad response, after removing the screws the bottom cover popped up close to 1/2” After unplugging the batt I started at the corner edges & with credit card + few drops of coconut oil on the edge “use an expired 1 if you have it” ;-) I slowly peeled the battery packs on both sides until I made it to the track pad then was able to use the corner of the card to work the batt up & out taking my time to peel off the rest of the old adhesive before inserting the new batt… Making sure all fit well with bottom cover, all is good reset the SMC up & running…

    Pete DiSandro - Ответить

    Bonjour

    Remplacement fait ce jour. Absolument pas besoin de tout enlever. On déconnecte la prise de la batterie et j’ai utilisé une mini spatule de platrier à bout rond pour décoller la batterie + les cartes en plastiques fournies dans le kit. Par contre, il faut y aller très délicatement, et cellule par cellule en prenant son temps. Une bonne demi heure pour décoller les éléments, et autant de temps pour nettoyer tous les résidus de colle avec spatule et dissolvant fournis dans le kit. 90 euros + un peu de temps à la place des 479 euros demandés par Apple!!!! Une merveille, merci!!

    Benjamin morel - Ответить

    Kit arrived as advertised.

    First almost-issue I had was, the adhesive remover must have been in a pressurized environment; probably shipped by air. As soon as I cut the front part off at least a third of the content came blasting out…Thankfully I cut over the garbage can so it went flying out in a safe direction. So be aware when you cut open the container! It could all end up over your board!

    After removing the battery, to get rid of the residue glue in the machine, lay your machine out flat, drop some remover in and let it sit for 2 mins. Use the flat side of the blue tool to scrape it all together and then wipe it up. Think snot.

    Second almost issue I had was, the cable between the battery and connector was too long, by about 1/8th of an inch. I had to insert the battery lower part, connect to the board, and then drop the battery in the rest of the way, slightly bending the cables.

    Make sure your battery screws are lined up before you let it settle in place.

    Patience is all you need, and 45 mins.

    Johnny Baben - Ответить

    Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.

    Cristian Caprar - Ответить

    Did I damage my trackpad?

    New Battery works great but old trackpad doesn’t.

    adhesive remover got under metal plate under center two battery packs. I cleaned it and replaced plate but did not glue it down. I noticed a small hole in metal plate but couldn’t see what it is supposed to align to. The below comment mentions a piece of plastic under the two center packs. The only plastic I saw was still stuck on the battery packs and it is unlikely I can remove it in one piece.

    “One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - 08/19/2019”

    some guidance please - can I realign the trackpad without ungluing the battery? Is the metal plate not supposed to be in contact with the battery…? Thank you

    Lisa - Ответить

    I have to agree with the other commenters suggesting the use of fishing line to “saw” through the adhesive. I used 30 pound test braided fishing line. It worked really well and I was able to skip most of the steps. Watch out for the speaker connection. On my mid 2014 it is very close to the battery. It is easier to unhook the connector and then plug it back in after the battery swap. And be patient with the adhesive removal. I used cotton swaps and paper towels soaked in the adhesive remover to carefully clean some of the tougher spots.

    mark38 - Ответить

    I’ve replaced my battery twice now (successfully) and didn’t do all the prep steps of removing things. You can start at step #38 just to remove the two screws holding the battery. Then you can jump to step #40 to begin working the battery free. The cards that I Fi it sells are good, but you can use any similar plastic cards of that size. I recommend sanding on side to a semi-sharp edge and then just working it SLOWLY, angling it back and forth as you free up the battery modules one by one. Start from the sides and remove the two outer ones on each side (4 total). Then work on the middle 2. Be patient and they will slowly release.

    if you need to, you can just use rubbing or denatured alcohol to soften the glue strips… the alcohol is pretty harmless to all components, but use it sparingly (use an eye-dropper). Once the battery is out, you can just rub any remaining glue strips off and clean the aluminum case thoroughly with the alcohol. I don’t recommend using wire or anything metal throughout the process.

    Bigh - Ответить

    Part 2:

    Apple and others use a ridiculous amount of tape to hold the battery in place… it’s not going anywhere. I remove all the rape from new batteries by just rubbing it (it will eventually roll off) and I use my own double-stick tape… mine is 1/16” wide, so I use several strips on each battery, spaced about 3/8” apart. That provides plenty of hold for the batteries, and makes it super-easy to remove them if you need to do this again like me (after-market batteries seem to plump quickly… like in three years).

    If you approach it this way, the repair goes from being “difficult” to being one of the easiest repairs I’ve ever done. Most importantly, you don’t risk breaking any of the delicate connectors that the guide takes you through… you only deal with the battery. And you can use materials easily found around the home or at Home Depot. The key is to go slowly and clean everything thoroughly with alcohol. I did my second replacement last night and it was a breeze.

    Bigh - Ответить

    Great guide, thank you!

    Unfortunately, my fans are running at max all the time now (Macbook pro mid 2014 Retina). I reset the SMC (got even confirmation with the light on the MagSafe), but still: fans are starting to run to max during start-up and stay at max (Macbook stays absolutely cool though - no processes use much energy acc to Activity monitor). Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

    Daniel - Ответить

    I found this project to be a very pleasurable process, fun even. Thankfully I didn’t know the difficulty rating was high until I was already in the middle of the battery change. It would probably discouraged me. I think the project was simple due to the superior quality of the repair guide. One of the best instruction guides I’ve ever used. What an amazing job. Thank you for making this self repair possible!

    Dave Hall - Ответить

    Replaced the battery with relative ease. I recommend keeping track of which screws came out of which part/step #. AT the end, when we booted up the computer it kept showing a startup error (folder with a question mark). We checked the disk first aid and everything was fine. Were almost going to re-install the OS but it wouldn’t show the disk to install it onto. Took out the hard drive and put it back in and everything worked after that. Phewf!!

    Caitlin M - Ответить

    After completing the whole complicated guide, my macbook turned on on battery power, but doesn't seem to accept any power from my MagSafe adaptor. The light is off or green, but won't charge the battery.

    Turned off the computer and reset the SMC. MagSafe light switched to amber, but computer won't turn on. Waited until MagSafe turned green after about 15 Minutes. Computer now turns on, but battery is still at 47%, didn't charge at all.

    Did I break anything?

    Sergio Weigel - Ответить

    je viens de faire tout le tutoriel pour mon MacBook Pro retina 15 avec le kit iFixit : parfait. Le dissolvant fonctionne parfaitement. On arrive à décoller la batterie sans forcer. J'ai remonté la carte mère et tout fonctionne parfaitement.

    merci !!!

    Julien Niger - Ответить

    Great guide, thank you. Worked like a charm!

    The one thing I did miss (despite the warning ;-) ) was to make sure all the cables where out in the open before installing the main board.

    Sven Dirks - Ответить

    Great Guide - helped me to survive the 3.5 h to make it happen - thank you :-)

    marces - Ответить

    I used a very sturdy and thin piece of string to "saw" the battery loose from the case. I am sure that is a very bad idea, but it worked for me.

    Bill Debevc - Ответить

    This guide is AMAZING. While it is very comprehensive in the description of what to do, it should have also provided an alternative approach to battery replacement at the beginning of the guide. Had I known that it was possible to remove the battery without all of the risky removal of the motherboard, I would have seriously considered that approach. It boggles the mind as to the number of things that could have gone wrong. Thankfully, it all turned out well. The lesson is to read ALL instructions AND the associated comments for each step and gather data prior to performing repairs.

    🍎Technical Note:

    Be certain to align the screw holes of the new battery PRIOR to gluing it in place. Failure to do this minor thing could lead to an inability to properly attach it to the logic board. Luckily for me, there was a small amount of play in the battery cable that allowed it to realign into the proper position.

    Reginald Garrett II - Ответить

    Finished the replacement, thank you for the great guide!
    However, next time, I would carefully remove the glue like described without all the disassembly. I think one can damage much more by the whole procedure than by carefully working with the glue solvent.

    But once more, THANK YOU!

    Rainer Fehringer - Ответить

    I would make this comment, reassemble the system completely before adding the battery. Make the battery installation the last thing you do. Don't be afraid to put some pressure on the battery connector when connecting it to the system board. It will take a strong push evenly across the connect and you will get a healthy snap when it goes into place.

    Steve Rowe - Ответить

    J ai fait le remplacement de la batterie sans soucis, elle a bien marché avec la batterie achetée chez iFixit.

    Seulement 1 an après la batterie ne marche plus (santé à 55% et cellules gonflées). La qualité n est pas là !

    Julien Niger - Ответить

    Bonjour @colums31,

    désolée d’apprendre que vous rencontrez un problème. Je vous conseille de prendre contact directement avec notre service client au support@ifixit.com (pour la boutique américaine) ou au eustore@ifixit.com (pour la boutique européenne et française), pour tester votre batterie.

    Claire Miesch -

    Great guide. Just successfully completed my battery replacement in just under 2 hours (going slowly and carefully). Managed not to break anything. A few thoughts:

    1. As per previous comments, skip from step 4 to step 34. Completely disassembling your MacBook is too extreme and risky if all you want to do is replace the battery.

    2. I removed the old battery by levering the cells up using a large flat head screwdriver. It worked for me, but I'm not sure how safe this is: some of the cells bent as I was doing it and I was a bit worried about causing a puncture, short circuit and/or battery fire.

    3. I don't know why everyone is so obsessed with removing all traces of the old adhesive using solvents. Most of the adhesive came off with the battery, and I removed most of what remained using a spudger and my fingers. I didn't use any solvents.

    4. Before inserting the new battery, take a moment to adjust the degree of click of the trackpad using the screw in the middle of it, underneath the battery.

    Peter Gray - Ответить

    Finished replacing my battery. Thankful for all the advice in the comments along with the kit. I made a cheese slicer with surveyor/masonry twine and two dowels for handles. Stuffed the twine under one cell at a time and worked it down until each cell was freed. Didn't have a helper and if you have a helping hand to hold the machine, that's useful. My kit's battery had a thick'ish blue piece of plastic that also had a film over that. Wasn't sure right off if the plastic was needed, but realized there was no adhesive under the film. There was adhesive under the plastic, so I assumed the plastic plate needed to come off and that was correct. Would have been nice to see the instructions clear that one up for a smooth finish installation. Once reassembled, the unit started charging right away, the trackpad worked, and no smoke! :-) Thanks, iFixIt!

    Randy Cox - Ответить

    One more vote for going from Step 4 to 34 and NOT disassembling the guts of the machine but proceeding to old battery removal. Also one more vote for using twine/wire to cut through the old adhesive under the batteries. The biggest thing to watch out for is not damaging the trackpad cable which is right in between the two center battery packs, but I think you are more likely to damage it if you are poking around with the plastic card and adhesive method more than the twine/wire method. I never did get all the adhesive off the underside of the trackpad, but hopefully not a problem. The adhesive on the sides, attached to the case came off easily. Thanks to all who comment and add to these fine instructions!

    Steven Bulmer - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

331 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Jeff Suovanen

Участник с: 08/06/13

427 118 Репутация

Автор 259 руководств

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120 Комментариев

This looks amazingly complicated!!! I've seen Youtube videos just removing the battery with solvent, and being careful. Why removing everything beforehand?

anonymous 3232 - Ответить

There's nothing physically stopping you from going straight for the battery. However, it's difficult to control where the solvent goes with 100% accuracy, so if you're at all concerned about your solvent affecting other components, it's safer to remove them first. We've tested a lot of solvents and found that some are much safer to spread around, but not very effective at separating the battery. So yes, depending on the solvent used and the exact model of your MacBook Pro, the procedure could be very different!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi Jeff, thanks for the explanation, very helpful. In the meantime, I have realised you don't ship out of the US... pity!

anonymous 3232 - Ответить

Thanks so much for that link! And thanks to the guy who came up with it. I think I found a much faster way to go than thick nylon.

I couldn't find a nylon cord big enough. But I realized (being a guy from jersey) that it looked like something I'd seen happen in so many 80's mob films to someone who had to be taken care of. So i looked around for a thin metal wire and found it on my guitar! Wrap each end around a nail or something so you can hold it tight. And the metal wire really effectively cuts through the glue. The thin diameter makes it easier.

Didn't have to take out a single component.

Seth Piezas -

your link in combination with dental floss is great, fast and safe

hanneskvh -

Hey! My Macbook has started to swell in the center, near the spacebar! I'll try to replace the battery asap. I play the guitar so I'll use the guitar string as recommended. Which one did you use? This high E? And can I use the guide shown in this link with the guitar string? Thanks!

Carlos Castro Neves -

An other way ist following: I put a few drops of adhesive remover to the plastic card and then push the card under the battery pack. repeat this until yo can remove one battery after one.

No need to remove any parts and no need for a guitar string, dental floss …

familienfreundlich -

Or if you have an Apple Store nearby, they'll do the work for $129 which is worth the risk IMO. https://support.apple.com/mac/repair/ser...

Phatcat - Ответить

It's actually $199 for Retina MacBook Pros, but yes you're right and that's certainly an option if you're close to an Apple Store—at least until the 5-year mark when Apple stops servicing them (which on the 2013 models will be as soon as next year).

Jeff Suovanen -

Also they take your computer for several days. You can do this repair in a few hours. (or shorter if you use the string method along with solvent, as mentioned above)

tod -

In Portugal it’s like 337€ which is equivalent to 378$ lol do you still think it isn’t worth the risk?

Lino -

I did a modified version of this to replace my battery: Steps 1-4, then Steps 34-. I didn't feel comfortable removing the logic board.

I controlled the flow of the solvent by tilting the computer by the hinge so any excess solvent would flow towards the front of the computer.

After being very sparing with the solvent and letting it sit for several minutes, I used the string method mentioned above. I think without the solvent, using the string would be very difficult, but with the solvent, the adhesive became gummy and easy to pull through.

tod - Ответить

I just did this replacement but used solvent + string. Seems to work great. Solvent weakens the adhesive, string breaks it.

A small writeup here: https://todbot.com/blog/2017/07/08/repla...

tod - Ответить

Thanks for the link to your method - just followed your procedure and it worked great! Entire process probably took about 45 minutes total and that was taking my time.

Mark Weishaar -

I used the solvent + string method and it worked great. For the string, I used dental floss. It is very thin and very strong and easily cuts through the weakened glue.

Jeffr -

Hey guys, i changed my battery following the guide and using the ifix it kit, i did a full SMC and PRAM reset but for some strange reason completely randomly the computer will crash make the screen completely black and after a while it’ll shutdown by itself, i just reset it and it works fine but i’d love some advice on the matter

aerorth - Ответить

I just pulled the battery out. I didn't disassemble the entire computer. I also did not use the adhesive remover. Scrape scrape scrape.

christianm - Ответить

Sucess! Thanks ifixit.com, Like some, I skipped steps 5 to 33…

Alexander Javier - Ответить

I brought the MBP to the genius bar in town to run their diagnostic tool before I ordered the Ifixit battery replacement kit, if only to see what else was wrong besides an old battery. I was suspecting the DC onboard chip was damaged as well. We got two errors, one for the battery and one for a temperature sensor (which could have been battery related said the genius) DC onboard chip wasn’t damaged as I thought. Could it be that the new battery that was shipped was faulty, or did I destroy the socket or a solder when I pried off the battery plug with the spudger as was instructed but not demonstrated (did i use a vital component as a leverage point?)

What gives? Can I clean the socket with an electronic contact cleaner- the spray kind, or will that damage other components?

Help

Paul Ranada - Ответить

THIS WHOLE GUIDE IS TOO LONG AND FOR COWARDS. You can easily make it faster. Just do it as in guide until you finish step 4. Then open your laptop and put it on the table this way that keyboard will face the table and screen will be hanging from the table (similar way how they put chairs on tables in restaurants to clean floor). Put some cloths or paper between keyboard and table, make roll from paper and put it also between table and keyboard near table’s edge. This will lift laptop a little bit and allow adhesive remover to flow down to the paper/cloths. Put some remover under the batteries (I bought nail’s remover with acetone), wait a while and remove batteries. Clean the rest of remover from the bottom of laptop and you are ready to put new batteries. It is easy and can be done in 20-40 minutes.

paczor - Ответить

I agree with the other commenters here. EVERY STEP AFTER 4 IS COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY. I think you risk doing more damage to your computer trying to remove the logic board and components than just muscling the battery out. If your battery is swollen like mine was, the battery will mostly have separated from the adhesive already due to expansion. I was able to pull out my battery with no adhesive remover whatsoever. If you do run into some adhesive that you can’t just pry off, just use a scraper or floss to remove it.

email - Ответить

Hi; I just installed my new battery and followed your instructions to the letter… not a bad experience, and works like a dream. And, while I was in there I swapped my 500 Gb SSD with a new OWC 1 Tb. It’s like having a new computer. Thanks!

Marc Jacobs - Ответить

Succeeded! I left out steps 5 to 33 to avoid too many possible faults removing and reassembling all the parts. To avoid floating of the solvent in a wrong direction, I shifted the computer on the upper side, so that the solvent would float under the battery to the edge, not to the sensible parts.

Now the bottom part is flat again, and the trackpad klicks smooth… The whole computer is like new again and looks like new as well. :-) (and it’s 4,5 years old)

Hartmut - Ответить

Unlike many others that commented, I did go through with the whole replacement as stated, and it worked without issue. I followed every step closely, and had no issues when I turned the machine back on. Now that I’ve done it, I don’t see any reason you couldn’t do the thread or dental floss method - seems safe to me.

I made a time lapse of the process. Thanks for the great (and very detailed) guide!

Jeff Ballweg - Ответить

I love your video! Great work. That battery looked pretty swollen o.O

Jeff Suovanen -

Success! Did not use the solvent, but fishing line and a plastic knife. The guitar pic in the replacement kit was just a bit too short. ;) I appreciate the work everyone has done in writing up hints and tips. The guide’s instructions and images are tops! I approached this job with a bit of fear but saw how nearly everyone was successful. Now, my 2013 model MacBook Pro has long battery life again.

Larry_Rymal - Ответить

Just a marvelous follow-up. The computer would power-off at 10% battery remaining. I did the usual resets, etc., but it still would power-off. I decided to go ahead and charge the battery to 100% and let it drain (power adapter unplugged). This time it drained all the way to 0% (wow!) and faded to dark. Nice and eloquently.

Secondly, Facebook, with the old dying battery, would not scroll smoothly as graphics/pictures were loading. I’m assuming the MacBook Pro was throttling back since the battery was on its death bed. Now, with the new battery, this computer is so amazingly fast! FB scrolling is whoooshhh fast on supplying the graphics.

I just hope that Apple will give OS upgrade support for just a couple more years, albeit being nearly a five year old machine. It is speedy, and has all the ports I need (other than having ThunderBolt 2 rather ThunderBolt 3).

Thank you iFixit!

Larry_Rymal - Ответить

I just replaced my battery with the ifixit kit, but like some people I skipped all the steps regarding removing components.

I protected the screen with foil, tilted the laptop so excess acetone would go away from the logic board, and proceeded to remove the battery.

i used very small amounts of fluid, and worked them off with plastic cards. They came off pretty easily; I spent more time removing the excess black glue strips.

This is NOT difficult. Just go slow.

jacob - Ответить

iFixit’s Kit doesn’t ship to NZ so my method of attack was the following:

* Custom blend of about 80% Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) + 20% water in a dish.

* The disposable eye drops you can buy, emptied one of the little plastic suckers / droppers and used that to pick-up the custom blend above and apply it.

* I tried some picture hanging wire, was OK. Then Dental Floss, was not great. Finally settled on cutting a metre of an old ethernet cable and using a twisted pair from that. Worked much better, decent sawing motion and as the plastic wears down you get better sawing from the wire inside. No battery damage at all…

* Plus some old credit cards

Took 2 batteries out of dead Macbook Pro’s and swapped them over with great success.

As above you don’t need to remove all the other components…

Matt

Matt Hall - Ответить

Should have skipped to the comments first before I started; advising to skip certain steps. lol…but, alas I went through with it all and I’m glad I did. It allowed me to carefully clean the inside of the laptop. I even opened up the fans and got all the dust out, too. I will say I’m rather good with this kind of stuff so I wasn’t too worried as I progressed to basically teardown the laptop. Thanks to ifixit and the author for this. First timer on here and grateful for the community. Cheers!

James Castro - Ответить

Another successful repair here. As with most other commenters, I skipped steps 5-33 and had zero issues by virtue of tilting the laptop so the solvent wouldn’t contact the other parts inside. It actually took longer to clean up the leftover old adhesive strips than to remove the old battery itself. As a bonus, my trackpad, which had started behaving erratically about 6-8 months ago, is working perfectly again, likely due to the badly swollen condition of the old cells, enough to visibly bow the keyboard upward. No issues following replacement, the recommended two full discharge/charge cycles and a couple of days’ usage. I am very grateful for the work that went into the replacement kit and this guide. Thanks!

Anderson Vitous - Ответить

Just replaced the whole unibody, I had a broken trackpad as well as a 50% health battery. Found a good used one and used this tutorial and the tutorial on the display replacement. Had the whole computer taken down to components, couldn’t have done it with out the tutorial. Thanks!

Elijah Vivio - Ответить

This is an easy repair with iFixit’s kit and especially if you do a little bit of research first. I did what a lot of people here have mentioned, using a combination of the adhesive remover and a string to sort of “tear” the glue. Here are the steps I took:

1) I put some foil in the closed laptop to protect the screen, then put the laptop on a tilted stand.

2) I then put the adhesive remover around each of the batteries, carefully avoiding components I didn’t remove.

3) Once the adhesive remover had set in a little, I used fishing line to pull under the cells and tear the weakened adhesive.

4) I Removed and replaced the battery once all the cells were separated from the computer.

Here’s a video of the process that I used to replace mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

However I had calibrated the new battery and reset the PRAM and SMC and it would still shut off with 35% left, meaning that the new battery was defective, but iFixit quickly shipped a new one to me for free that works perfectly.

Andrew Dennistoun - Ответить

Two notes on this excellent guide here:

1. Having completed the whole operation the second time around I’d straight go for the battery without removing the logic board.

2. The iFixit replacement battery didn’t completely fit in the center (I couldn’t screw it down without bending the battery connector). The connector part is a differently constructed than the original one, so beware if that’s the case for you as well.

Bruno Essmann - Ответить

I replaced the battery successfully but after turning the unit back on, I can’t use my normal password to get in, the enter key and the delete key don’t work. What could I have screwed up?

Charles Shader - Ответить

The keyboard ribbon cable is one of the trickiest to reconnect correctly. I’d start by pulling it back out and inspecting it carefully for damage. Make sure it’s clean and free of skin oils—you can clean the contacts carefully with a bit of >90% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free swab or cloth. When it’s dry, reinsert it carefully and evenly, and make sure it’s fully seated. If that doesn’t help, it’s possible the cable is damaged. Or, if you got too much adhesive remover in the wrong place, there could be damage to the keyboard. Start with the simple things first and work your way down. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I finished this today, skipped the steps to remove the electronics, and am happy to report that the speaker enclosures withstood a few splashes of solvent and did not melt like they’d been hit with the acid from ALIEN. It’s worth noting that the two central batteries have 3 strips of adhesive each, all of equal size oriented front to back in the case, the two sets of batteries on the sides had adhesive in a more rectangular pattern with two small and two large strips each. I would consider adding that to the instructions because so much of the disassembly was guessing where to ‘carve’ with the plastic separators. Also, a good trick for this was adding additional solvent while the plastic separators were already partially inserted, allowing it to run down the tool directly into the remaining adhesive. Last thought is that this was such a delicate and time consuming procedure, I would have been glad to just pay the extra money for apple to do it if they wouldn’t have needed to take my laptop for 3-5 days.

John Stevens - Ответить

I used the string method on mine. My batteries were so swollen that the screws ejected from the case as I removed them - ended up having to press down on the case so they wouldn’t strip the starting threads. Just waiting for it to discharge to ensure the battery is good. I was a bit concerned the string method could build up static electricity, but so far things are working fine…

simplymail - Ответить

I could easily have skipped the full teardown, but I decided to do so for the extra room to manipulate the batteries. I didn’t use the adhesive remover, just shoved the cards under the batteries and worked them free. Isopropyl 91% to clean up the residue. Some makeup remover pads were useful as well to let sit on the remaining residue to help saturate them before scrubbing clean. Re-assembly took about 1 hour carefully. Removed a lot of dust along the way. :-) Now the machine is in tip-top shape. Thanks for the guide! Even though it’s a little ambitious just to get the speakers out of the way, you did outline the worst case scenario and give adequate direction along the way to prevent anyone from getting lost.

As said by others, you would probably be fine to skip the teardown steps and just go for a battery removal with the logic board in place.

hybrid - Ответить

I have successfully remove last battery it was swollen, most of the strips already left the case due pressure build up by swelling, but my machine is keep restrating at 17% battery, i tried resetting smc and pram but same situation is same.

Muhammad Asif - Ответить

Easy half hour fix when skipping the electronics removal, Adhesive was easy solved by the solvant liquid

but noticed something interesting, APPLE had forgotten to put in the 2 screws holding the battery electronics connector in place

but I guess the Adhesive will keep it in place as the old one did for a few years.

Old battery very swollen but after replacing finally clicking the trackpad started to work again.

Only thing disappointing thing was they I got a plastic screwdriver shaft, was looking forward to get that shiny metal thing on all the pictures.

sayyonara - Ответить

I just finished all the steps — worked like a charm! While I had it all the way open, I replaced the keyboard and backlight as well (it had taken a bath in soda and after limping along for a few months a few keys finally gave out entirely…). Not exactly a trivial addition to the process (took about an additional hour and a half maybe?) but I really appreciate having had the instructions for taking out all the other parts.

John Murphy - Ответить

Thank you for the tip! I used the e-string of my Western guitar and did cut the tape in less than 10 minutes without any liquid and without taking at the Macbooks compontents. My daugher held the MB case firmly so I could make long strokes to cut the tape. Perfect!

Jan van der Meij - Ответить

Hi, i bought ifixit MacBook Pro replacement battery and i have done the installation successfully but now the battery is not charging at all. The computer tells me that the battery must be replaced. Also when i go to the system preference to check battery information it tells me that the battery has 0 amperes.

Please help me! Thank you!

mjma1982 - Ответить

Not sure if you got a solution. I just did a battery replacement and I have the same problem. I've just left it charging not sure if it will charge or not.

silver story -

I just remove and put back the battery connector and it is now working.

silver story -

Just made it, using the “string”-method as shown in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55....

Took about 50 minutes, most of the time for removing the adhesive residue.

Used a string that was thinner than the one in the youtube-video - and my winter leather gloves to not strangulate fingers ;-)

Works!

anonymousguest - Ответить

Just finished the repair using the fishing line method with no acetone. No need to remove anything except the battery. New battery was a simple install and as a bonus my trackpad works again! The swollen old batteries were pushing against the bottom of the trackpad preventing me from fully clicking on the pad. Thank you iFixIt!

Michael Rojas - Ответить

Hi everybody, I absolved every step succesfull. Now everything is working but the battery. Has anyone an idea what to do. When I pull magsafe out of my mac he is immedeatly off.

Karsten - Ответить

Thank You very much for the link, easy steps.

Bastian Goonewardena - Ответить

I ordered the battery and all tools to complete the installation, it arrived in 2 days. Because I am a DIY kind of guy, the only steps I followed were to take off the rear cover, unplug the battery, remove the two screws, remove the battery, and put it back together.

I used fishing line to drop behind each of the battery sections and sawed through the tape holding the battery down. After the first three sections I had to change the fishing line because it began to stick because of getting hot and residual glue. I used the adhesive remover to clean up the case after the batteries were out, replaced the two screws that hold the battery in place, plugged the battery in, turned it over and powered up just to be sure, and replaced the back cover.

No fuss, mo muss, no Apple having my computer for ‘about a week’ and with an investment of only 40 minutes I am a very happy camper. Don’t forget to calibrate your new battery so it will last as long as possible.

Thanks iFixit, I am very happy I found you!

Paul Malone - Ответить

I just replaced the battery with the iFixit kit. I did not need any of the additional removal steps (5-33). Rather, I just unplugged the battery and used the plastic cards to get at the adhesive. I only used the solvent when cleaning the remaining adhesive after getting the battery pack out. Using this method, I was able to replace the battery without removing anything else, saving a ton of time.

One thing to note re the iFixit Kit — it comes with a battery calibration card that does not match the instructions that are online through the link in this instruction page. In particular, the card that comes with the kit instructs to drain the battery from the state it was received in and then fully charge, while the online instructions say to charge the battery fully first, then drain fully, then charge fully again. Kind of surprising that those are inconsistent.

Nicholas Transier - Ответить

@nick_transier The printed cards are a little out of date in that regard. The instructions in the guide are correct. (The printed version has been updated, but some kits were already packed with the old cards. Sorry about that.)

Jeff Suovanen -

C’est fait ! Ai suivi pas à pas toutes les étapes.

C’est LONG, mais … c’est BON !

Merci pour le tuto TRES éclairant.

H Max - Ответить

HELP !!!

Ai un souci : malgré cette manipulation (ci-dessous) et le reset SMC, la batterie toute neuve de Ifixit passe de 47% à 7% subitement : que faire ???

Merci

Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

H Max - Ответить

Hello ! I have a problem, the new battery has 47% and suddenly go to 7% !

I have made a reset SMC, no change.

PLEASE HELP !

Thanks

H Max - Ответить

Same ploblem here… I repeated the drain process and same results… any suggestion? Thanks

Ivan Ferrigno -

Thank you so much for this wonderful detailed guide. I just fixed mine but when I reached the stages of using the solvent, I found out that the solvent has almost no chance of getting into the other components unless you’re abnormally clumsy, but I understand & appreciate the extra carefulness.. So unless you like me have extra free time to spend and you like taking things apart for fun; I would confidently say go ahead and just remove the battery alone. Thanks again for the whole package and everything in it.. I love this company’s idea.. Wish you all the best all the way from Saudi Arabia.

Faisal - Ответить

Start with Step 1- 4 and then start with Step 40! So my replace took 15-20min. Also i didn’t glued the new Batterie (absolut not needed) so a future replacement would take just 5min.

Cheers, Michael

M L - Ответить

The glue is the only thing safely securing the battery with this design. If you only ever plan to leave the laptop sitting flat on a desk its entire life, then sure, no adhesive needed—but otherwise, for safety reasons, it should be firmly stuck down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I can’t believe how much better my trackpad works now that I replaced the battery. I thought I had maybe warped the unibody case as it took a pretty big drop in a bag a few months back. Turns out the battery had began to swell and was pushing on the trackpad and bottom case. The adhesive remover worked well in small applications when I couldn’t get through it with fishing line. The entire process took me about 45 minutes, including setup and cleanup. The guide is really well written and the steps are documented meticulously, but most of the steps really aren’t necessary unless you are a masochist or are really interested in fully tearing down your MBP. Anyway, the kit was great and all the comments on this guide made the job much easier.

benganzel - Ответить

My mac doesn’t turn on anymore I followed all the steps. Has anyone an suggestion?

Harry Fesenmayr - Ответить

I am unhappy with the new battery life. I get just over two hours. Is this right ?

Simon Anthony - Ответить

The guide here is overkill. As many here have said, skip the extensive tear-down of the MacBook Pro. A close visual inspection, before and during the repair, suggest that the battery-only teardown would not cause harm. I did it without problems with both floss and cards. I can’t tell if the small amount of solvent actually did much good. As I got closer to the bottom edge, I don’t think solvent reached that far, but the adhesive yielded to gentle and repeated pressure.

An observation: Floss or fishing line is adequate, and metal ( guitar or ethernet wires) add a risk. It also doesn’t matter much if you break the line — start over - you’ll succeed.

My take on the overkill of this guide is iFixit both wants to make sure their advice doesn’t make them liable for your actions, & that the over-the-top repair reinforces their rating of Apple products as minimally repairable (thus optimizing their “brand”). Still, a very satisfying, simple, and quick repair, and I’m happy to pay a little bit more for the whole kit.

John Maliga - Ответить

Sawing the adhesive patches through with string (15 lb fishing line tied around 2 tools in my case) makes this a simple 30 minute job. I think, based on the many comments, that carefully cutting through the adhesive is much safer than using solvent. A BIG THANK YOU TO NORBERT MATE FOR POSTING THE LINK . My Macbook Pro 15 late 2013 lives!!!

Suggestion to iFIXIT: make a fishing line “tool” to remove the batteries and post the alternative procedure.

stephan williams - Ответить

BEWARE: Ifixit’s directions and kit is fantastic. No complaints there. But what all of you should know is that the battery I received is not behaving properly and I followed the directions to the letter for its first charges etc. Essentially, the battery will show 100%, then slowly trickle down and skip to the 80 and then go down to the 60’s and then eventually and suddenly hover at 7 percent for awhile. I think I’m getting about 2.5 total hours of usage surfing the internet but the real problem is when I close the lid and put the computer to sleep. Before Thanksgiving break I was around 65% battery life and 4 days later I come back to town and try to the wake the computer and its telling me the battery is totally dead. I told ifixt that I believe I got a bad battery and their answer was for me to tear out the new and adhered battery from the computer so they can issue a refund and test the battery for problems. But shouldn’t every battery be tested BEFORE it is sent out for a complicated repair?

Jeffrey Buccellato - Ответить

Hello, I decide not to take everything apart in order to use the solvent . Instead, I used Dental Floss to cut the adhesive. It worked very well and quickly. Simply wrap the floss around a couple of small handles, route it under the battery segments one by one and using a sawing motion, cut through the adhesive. I attached a clamp to the front edge of my workbench to provide something to pull against. You need to be careful not to cut the floss on the surrounding metal edges. I was able to complete the battery replacement in about 35 minutes.

GradyB - Ответить

I followed this tutorial and my MacBook is turning on but crashes during login. Any suggestions? I’ve done SMC reset and PRAM reset.

Aleks S. J. - Ответить

Like many here I also did not remove any components, but used dental floss to cut through the sticky pads holding the battery to the top case, and did not apply any adhesive remover. Using a sawing motion and firm (but not too firm) pressure you cut through the glue fairly easily. It was more work to clean up the residue left behind - for that the adhesive remover was useful! I was quoted between €300 and €500 by the local apple authorised service centre, the €90 iFixit kit is great value. Also much more fun to do it yourself!

Mat Boek - Ответить

I have to say, a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. Your guides are almost terrific EXCEPT that they leave out crucial information. You need pictures of each and every connection and need to show people exactly how to unhook the various latches, etc. Because you haven’t included this, even though I was extremely careful the whole way through, I ended up breaking a connection that I have no way of fixing. Instead of repairing my Macbook Pro, I seriously damaged it and now have to buy a new computer. If I was giving you a rating it would be 1 start out of 10.

Kenneth Gilbert - Ответить

Yes , no need to follow all the steps . Just use a wire to cut through the adesive . No brainer

Joao Caiado - Ответить

Great guide. Got my iFixit kit for my Late 2013. replaced the battery and assembled it with backward steps with this guide. Thank you so much.

Kavak Agir - Ответить

Replaced the battery following this guide. The computer wouldn’t start after putting everything back together. I went back through my connections, and when I check the I/O board connector I popped the right side off to check it, and the computer started up and is running fine. What in the world does this mean and how can I fix it?

Noah Hall - Ответить

is it possible to send the kit to Saudi Arabia.

Hisham Althobiti - Ответить

I used this guide today to replace my battery. I used the long method, I didn’t skip to step 34. after step 4. end2end, i’d say it took me 6 hours.

- it’s painful to do, and most won’t do it, but read the comments for each step b4u start. i would’ve saved myself a lot of time if i had done this.

- step #5 DO NOT disconnect the 3 aiport cables. it’s ok to disconnect the camera cable, just not the airport cables.

- step #11 keep those 3 cables connect to the airport card

- step #30 see the link on removing the 2 screws for MagSafe - much easier

- step #30 read all of the comments- very helpful

- step #31 click on the middle picture for reference, don’t miss this

- step #31 there’s a comment about using scotch tape - do it - very handy to keep all the wires from getting stuck when reassembling

- step #39 w/ the battery stuff, just take your time. it was very easy. just don’t be in a rush.

Laptop working on battery only now so need to debug what’s going on w/ the power.

Overall a good guide, fun project.

Mitch Duncan - Ответить

- 2 hrs to complete ; of which about 1/2 hr was spent vacuuming and cleaning inside after 7 years of heavy travel

- Thanks to all who suggested skipping Steps 5 through 33 ; what a time saver!

- The ifixit toolkit was worth it for me since I don’t keep those driver bits around

- The acetone glue remover worked fine since I kept the case tilted down towards the battery ; a fishing line hooked around the battery and the pry tool made it easy to pull off each cell

- IMPORTANT: when installing the new battery, don’t press down the center battery cells too hard ; I lost the trackpad touch and click ; had to re-open and lift the two cells slightly

Sasidhar Eranki - Ответить

Success! Replaced the battery on 2 macbook pro 15” late 2013 models following these instructions. Did not skip any steps as both computers, his and hers, were very dusty and I felt needed a cleaning. Taking out the mainboard provided an opportunity to replace a bad speaker and remove dust and hair from the cooling passages and heat sinks. It was also much easier to address the sticky mess the old battery left behind without having to worry about which way I tilted the body. The cleaning solvent provided in the kit melts the original adhesive well but it does take some time and elbow grease to remove all the leftover residue. Cleaning is worth it both machine have excellent response from the trackpads now and are running cooler than before. After following the calibration for the battery everything is working great!

Edward Tavares - Ответить

any ideas why i can’t get power from the AC cord? i’m pulling it apart now to ensure to ensure the MagSafe connector is plugged in. any help appreciated - thx.

Mitch Duncan - Ответить

Followed the advice to go straight for the battery and leave the other components in place. Didn’t use solvent - used fishing line instead. Worked like a charm.

hawdminor - Ответить

Thanks to everyone suggesting alternative methods to remove the battery. I used a guitar string (a high E, if anyone would care) and two pieces of wood as handles. The Spudger (I love that word) came in handy to prop the wire under te batteries, and to scrape off the remaining sticky tape. But it was all-in-all super easy. I would suggest iFixit develop a little alternative kit for this method. I would love to help design it. The procedure is very easy, can be done by one person alone.. and doesn’t require any excessive force or strain. It is safe and simple, and saves you about an hour and a half. And most importantly.. it keeps you from pouring solvent into your 3500 Euro laptop ;-) Let me know if yu need any help ever.. EJ (ernstjan@me.com)

ernstjan - Ответить

Awesome tutorial as usual, the kit is very helpful, using floss to assist in removing the adhesive from the batteries is very helpful as well, thank you!!

Oscar D - Ответить

Awesome instructions, right on point was kind of surprised i didn’t have any major issues while going through the process. I ended up removing everything since i assumed that the battery pack was really stuck on there, i felt i had a better chance at getting it back together in one piece. Since i did it over the Thanksgiving Weekend i used a cup cake tray that was left out and cut up some pieces of paper and numbered them with the portions of the guide that had steps involving the removal of screws. This helped greatly getting everything back together and minimized second guessing myself.

Oscar D - Ответить

In regards to removing the battery pack from the machines body i used floss to get under the batteries and assist in separating against the adhesive. The floss wasn’t particularly strong but did allow me to cut through the glue somewhat, which then i would use the plastic cards that came in the kit to pry a little squirt some solution in there across as much area as possible while keeping it tilled towards the direction i was going as shown in the guide and repeated the process. I was trying to be careful because i thought the trackpad cable ran under the battery somewhere, luckily there isn’t anything there other than cables at the edge of the laptop (bottom of the trackpad away from the screen) so you can pretty much have at it. My battery pack was pretty inflated which caused the trackpad not to work (i hadn’t noticed since i used it as a tower) so well, due to the pressure from the swelled up batteries.

Oscar D -

Only other issue i had was with the Speakers, there is adhesive there, so once you remove the screws you just need to be a little more forceful removing it, i would just wiggle it out from end to end, takes a little effort, at least on mine.

Oscar D -

Remplacement fait ce jour. Absolument pas besoin de tout retirer. J’ai déconnecté la prise de la batterie. J’ai ensuite utilisé une petite spatule de platrier à bout rond pour décoller la batterie. Par contre, il faut y aller très très délicatement et prendre son temps en s’aidant des cartes plastiques fournies dans le kit. Une bonne demi heure pour décoller tous les éléments, et autant pour retirer tous les résidus de colle avec les spatules et le dissolvant fournis dans le kit. 90 euros + un peu de temps comparé aux 479 euros demandés par Apple! merci, c’est top!!!

Benjamin morel - Ответить

I was able to replace the battery with ease, but when I connect my Macbook charger it says “not charging” sometimes and other times it will show that it is charging? I have reset the SMC as well.

Kevin Lujano - Ответить

I opted for the long method - using an egg carton to keep the screws removed from each step together. Unfortunately, after removing the last screw I got up to answer the phone and knocked the egg carton on the floor! After considerable effort searching the rug for screws, I retrieved 35 of the 36 screws - but now had no idea which step required each screw. Although I do have a dial caliper, it only measures down to the millimeter and was little help distinguishing between 2.5mm and 2.6mm or 3.0mm, 3.1mm and 3.2mm!

After removing and replacing the (swollen) battery, I optimistically began reassembly - assuming I would discover where the missing screw should go. When I arrived back at Step 16, I discovered that I had both 5.0mm screws but no 3.9mm or 4.4mm screws!

I pressed on to reattach the Airport Card and the Lower Case (for which I had the correct screws). Success - it boots!

The only question is how to responsively dispose of the old battery. Any suggestions?

Jack Quattlebaum - Ответить

Lowe’s and Home Depot participate in Li-ion (and other) battery recycling. Took mine to Lowe’s as it was closest to me. If you can’t find the drop point just ask customer service. It’s usually near that counter or in the environmental barrier between the outer and inner doors of the entrances/exits.

https://www.call2recycle.org/locator/

Jason Lockhart -

Disassembly is a ridiculous set of steps that can only add to human error and a completely botched repair. Did the following with a swollen battery and it took about 30 minutes from case removal to clean innards. Be sure to remove the battery connection FIRST and place some electrical tape over the contact to keep it from touching anything that might conduct. Twelve to 15 lb fishing line works great to cut through the adhesive on the battery sections. Use leather gloves and be careful making sure to get the line under the corners of each battery section and pull as horizontally with minimal sawing motion. Remove battery then carefully peel up most of the excess adhesive strip material. I also went back with a lint free cloth and some isopropyl to clean any remaining residue from the metal case surfaces and the underside of the trackpad mechanism. Had some trouble connecting the new battery after replacing as the wires for the connector were too long. Conditioning battery will update if things don’t go well.

Jason Lockhart - Ответить

Bonjour,

J’ai pas eu besoin de faire tout çà sur mon MacBook Pro fin 2013 (Batterie A1494). J’ai juste ouvert le capot sous le Mac, dévisé les 2 vis du connecteur de la batterie, enlever le connecteur et c’était bon !

Le Quellec - Ответить

Hi, just a quick tip from the old folks doing body works on motorcycles gas tank, to cut glue easily you do not need solvent and 55 steps to remove everything, you just need dental floss, you can insert the dental floss on top and under of each cell, and just pull, it will cut the foam/glue and you do not need to use that harsh chemicals and reduce it to 3 or 4 steps, after removing the two out most cells on the left and right side, I just used the “credit card” that came with the ifixit kit and I replaced the battery under 20 minutes. Hope this helps!

François Pominville - Ответить

The wires seem to be too long from the new battery to the where the harness plugs in. Did the rest of you guys have to bend the harness quite a bit to get it to plug in?

Gene Moore - Ответить

I ended up spending time bending the wires to get them to work the shorter distance, hopefully the contact/solder points aren’t weakened. Overall the new batter kit was a big success and the $126 spent here was a lot better than the $740 the authorized apple repair place in Greenville NC quoted me. I ended up using the “string” technique mentioned by other commenters and it worked very well … to protect me hands from the high tension on the strings I put on some thin gloves which really helped (my winter golf gloves). Thanks iFixit!

Gene Moore -

My batteries were bloated, have been already changed 3 years ago by Apple for 209€.

This time they said “so sorry your Mac is vintage, our supplier doesn’t produce these batteries anymore (may you want to buy a new MacBookPro?)“.

I said: “hold my bear“ a ordered batteries from ifixit.com.

Repair took me 5 hours incl. cleaning all this stuff.

Mac is up and running again, I am sooo happy - THANK YOU!

Small advise: never use your Macbook most of the time stationary with permanent plugged in power supply. It will destroy your batteries soon.

diplomat3000 - Ответить

I didn’t follow all the 57 steps but just 1, 2, 3, 4 and 34. Much easier, fast and safe (in my opinion). Just use the iFixit Adhesive Remover carefully (and slowly). I used dental floss to remove the battery (it doesn’t ruin the case and it works perfectly). The all iFix Kit was very helpful > I raccomend it.

There are also various tutorial on you tube eg:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjXERaPj...

pepe - Ответить

Thank you for the guide, I also skipped from step 4 to 34 and managed to replace the battery with no issues. The glue remover was great and allowed me to clean the whole area properly after the old battery was removed.

Slight noise from one of my fans now though so I will follow the full guide again when I have some spare time and clean all the components as well.

https://imgur.com/SqTDXHA

Leon Cope - Ответить

I agree. I got as far as removing the keyboard connector when I realized that there was nothing keeping the battery from coming out except the adhesive. I slowly and patient pried each cell up and soon the whole battery came out. I only used the adhesive remover to remove the residual adhesive. I wasted time and risked damage by removing all the zif connectors and such.

But thank you for writing and photographing an otherwise excellent guide.

aespin01 - Ответить

I’ve used a much easier way on multiple MacBook Pros that cuts down this procedure to about 30 min beacause you don’t remove any components. The trick is to build a steeply angled triangular tent about the height of the screen out of a sturdy cardboard. Open the MacBook Pro and place it over the tent, hinge at the top of the tent. The idea is to have a sturdy prop-up for the whole laptop so the acetone can’t get on the motherboard or speakers because they will be uphill from the battery. You still need to be careful where you squirt the acetone if you use sturdy and flexible enough cards you may not even need the solvent. You can often scrape the battery out dry out of the case.

reallyreallyfatguy - Ответить

My bloated battery probably helped make this easy, but I also used the string method, with four strands of sewing threads.

Looking at how much adhesive the new battery comes with, I am afraid of doing this again in 8 years… My mac can now safely cruise to the finish line while my new M1 Max makes its way.

Thanks, everyone!

thomchiu - Ответить

I did install the new battery succesfully in march 2021. I always check the capacity with the app “Coconut Battery”. When I freshyl installed it, the capacity was right at 100%, but after a few charges it went down pretty quickly to 90% and after just 20 cycles it was below 80%. Now after seven and a half months the capacity shows around 50% after 100 cycles and the battery doesn’t last long. Did I get a faulty battery or is there something else wrong with my nearly 8 year old MacBook Pro 15 retina? Apart from that everything fine with my Mac

Yves Schilli - Ответить

A combination of this repair guide (extremely comprehensive and complicated) plus a couple other guides (some linked here) made the battery replacement easy as pie.

The removal of all the components in this guide is unnecessary - the potential for damage is incredibly great on a number of these pieces. I tend to avoid taking apart what does not need fixing.

I found that a combination of a) propping up the laptop so that any stray adhesive remover would drip down and away from the motherboard at etc… and b) a fine wire or dental floss (I used dental floss) garrote to unstick the batteries… worked really well.

The repair kit items are perfect. The new battery is gorgeous. Everything went really smoothly, and the laptop is back up and running smoothly.

iFix is awesome and the folks who participate are amazing.

Daniel Curewitz - Ответить

Unlike you, I completed the procedure exactly as indicated in this guide, but I couldn’t agree more with those last two lines of your comment. The repair kit for this is just too much. The attention to detail is just beautiful. I have always loved iFixit, but yesterday (when I performed the replacement) was a friendly reminder of how much I do.

Rafael Pérez -

Did this battery change for the second time on my computer, and this time it doesn’t seem to be charging up. The light on my adapter is not lighting up to green or orange… any ideas?

Joel McChristy - Ответить

I followed the steps to the letter, the guide was very clear. I was extremely careful. I put in the new battery and now my laptop will not turn on and seems to be totally bricked! I wish I had reads the bottom comments and elected to not take out all the other components and took out only the battery.

branan - Ответить

I’m very surprised that no one did what I did. I used twisted nylon string dipped in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. The string just slide right through the adhesive. I assume you could also use any absorbent string dipped in acetone or another solvent.

Some people are using string/wire/dental floss. Others are using a solvent. Why not use both?

Also, when I put in the new batteries I cut 1/3 of the backing of the peel and stick adhesive and left 2/3 on the battery. If I moved my laptop around a lot I would have cut off 2/3 but, my laptop pretty much is always on my desk.

Also, I did not take apart the control board. I just changed the battery with all of the components in place. I had an old laptop which I took apart to see how easy it is to break those connectors. It is very easy to break those connectors. There are people who are saying their laptop is not turning on. I bet it is possible for those connectors to break even if one is careful. I also bet it possible for them to become damaged without any noticeable blemish.

Adam Stihl - Ответить

Just did my second battery replacement (2022/05) 4 years after my first replacement and everything seems great. I did the full teardown, mostly because, after (over the last 4 years) spilling wine, water, and white wine spritzer on my Macbook, there was definitely some sticky residue that needed a good wipe down. Second replacement really didn't need any solvent at all. With minimal work the battery came out and the adhesive pulled off cleanly. With a little isopropyl I was able to clean that residue as well. All told, even with the full teardown, the repair took a little under an hour. Granted I have a fair amount of experience with tearing down laptops, but the iFixit guides are wonderfully detailed. The only suggestion I would make is to always have a picture of the entire system with an inset to show where the part / connection is. I did find myself a couple of times having to use context clues from the photos to tell me what I was looking for.

jvedman - Ответить

Fun, not so difficult (with this excellent guide), and so exciting !!

My "old" MacBook Pro is not fixed.

Thank you very much

Stephen C - Ответить

Took the full 2 hours but I was overly careful about everything. In the end it looks like I was successful because it's powered on an charging so that it can go through full calibration. Thanks for the guide!

John Walsh - Ответить

As others here have mentioned, the string trick is very helpful. I didn't remove any of the components and used a small amount of adhesive remover and some string. Now I am typing this comment on my fixed macbook! Thanks for the parts and help ifixit!

HarleyD - Ответить

Combined with a SSD and speaker replacement. It all seems to have gone swimmingly. I used the Nylon cord method for the glue and tilted the whole thing back, vs sideways. Thanks for the clear guide.

L. Hille - Ответить

Replaced battery, but now MacBook doesnt run well at all! Runs very slowly and the fans run at full blast.

Have tried resetting PRam and SMC reset, but still have the same problem. Even re-installed Mac OS and still not working properly. My MacBook is currently unusable!

ANY help MUCH appreciated! Thanks

Paul - Ответить

Yesterday I did the exchange of the battery. I followed the proposal from Norbert Mate and used a Nylon cord to extract the old batteries. You need quite a lot of force to remove the batteries so that I managed to break the cord 3 times even so that I used a hot air blower to heat up the alluminium case from the keyboard side. I would recommend to perform this exchange with 2 people as shown in the video. A the the first cycle Coconut Battery shows 5% more charge than the design charge. So I guess evrything is ok. The comple process took me about 1 hour.

powerbookbenutzer - Ответить

I've been using IFIXIT products for over for 10 years. I got introduced to the product at FRY'S. Anyhow, when I found out about the site, I was stoked. I use it as a reference or a guide to kinda freshen up my mind about the procedure for any product I am going to work on. I look here first. If I don't find it here I google it.

Like I said I look here first. There were a few steps that could have used a few pictures added for reference. There was a little confusion on a few steps but I managed to figure it out. I can see where someone that never has done this before might have a hard time.

It may also help to mention that if you are an experienced technician you may want to do steps 1-4 and then go straight it step 34. I was kinda upset that I did not read the all the notes and instructions before disassembling the whole thing. It would have saved me time. Anyhow, I completed the whole thing. I guess it was good practice. Just spent more time on this project than I wanted too.

Mark Garcia - Ответить

This is the exact same process as the battery removable for the mid-2014 MacBook Pro, they even used all of the same photos exactly. Yet the 2013 is rated a "Very Difficult" repair while the 2014 is rated as a "Difficult" repair. What's up with that?

John M - Ответить

Hi!

I’m noticing that my processing speed is slower after replacing. Do you think resetting smc will help? Thanks.

Misterfrankk - Ответить

Hallo, wie lange dauert die Leiferung nach Deutschland?

Tahar - Ответить

@tahar21229 Meinst du vom Ersatzakku oder Kit? Das ist im Moment sofort lieferbar, du kannst also mit 1-2 Werktagen nach Bestellung rechnen.

Sandra Hiller -

Awesome! Thank you! Even with a several month gap between teardown and reassembly it all went back!

My tip (probably not original): as you take apart, store the screws for each step with sticky tape on a per step Postit, with the screw size and color code from the guide

martin baynes - Ответить

That's great to hear and I like your tip! For those who do that kind of thing more regularly, it might make sense to buy our Magnetic Project Mat or even the Fix Mat, which actually do exactly what you described, but are reusable and you wouldn't need sticky tape or Postits :-)

Sandra Hiller -

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За последние 7 дней: 284

За последние 30 дней: 1,341

За всё время: 220,758