Введение
Restore sound to your laptop by replacing the subwoofer and right speaker.
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With the case closed, place the Unibody top-side down on a flat surface.
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Depress the grooved side of the access door release latch enough to grab the free end. Lift the release latch until it is vertical.
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The access door should now be raised enough to lift it up and out of the Unibody.
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Grab the translucent plastic tab and pull the battery up and out of the Unibody.
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If the latch is depressed it will lock the battery in place.
Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?
No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.
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Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case to the chassis:
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One 5.4 mm Phillips screw.
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Three 14 mm Phillips screws.
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Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(
The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.
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Using both hands, lift and remove the lower case off the upper case.
About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.
I have an late 08 macbook pro and replaced my cd drive with a hd caddy and hard drive put in it. everything works but my wifi is saying no hardware installed. Bluetooth and camera working just the wifi isn't. Everything was working just find before i did this but now i cant get my wifi back on. I checked the cable looks to be inserted properly any one else had this happen or have any solutions ?
Having the same problem after this step with wifi not working anymore - it says “no airport card installed”… Any suggestions/fixes?
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.
You have to be EXTREMELY careful when detaching and reattaching this cable!!! It carries your Bluetooth, iSight camera, and Wifi connections!! I was being very careful when reattaching it and ending up either messing up the connector on the logic board or the cable itself- both cases are equally as bad. The cable doesn't snap back in or have guides, and it is therefore difficult to know if it's in as far as it needs to be, etc. If you mess up the connector on the logic board (that's what it's connecting to), you have to replace the entire logic board, and if you mess up the cable itself (it has very small, delicate metal connectors), you have to replace your entire display!! Each costs around $500/ea! I did a ton of research before embarking on this procedure and really wish someone had made a note of this prior- learn from my mistake!
I had some difficulty getting the 'isight' cable back on. Pay close attention when you remove it as you will need to reattach the cable at an angle to get the small protrusion on the right side of the connector passed the little black plastic block that is glued onto the system board. It looks like this little block is there to keep the cable from slipping out... so it makes it tricky getting it back in.
Personally I would avoid disconnecting the cable from the socket as advised in this step, one should be able to proceed simply by carefully lifting the cable free from the adhesive holding it on to the optical drive.
Like others here, I followed Step 6 as per the guide and ended up with no Bluetooth or iSight camera, due to somehow damaging the connector and/or socket, despite taking the utmost care. It is possible to carefully slip the old drive out, and a new drive in, with the cable connector in situ (at least that was the case on my Late 2008 MacBook Pro).
You can remove the small smooth block that is blocking this plug pretty easy. Once you connect the plug then you can stick that block back in place, it's just glued down.
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Use a spudger to pry the optical drive connector straight up off the logic board.
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Remove two 8 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.
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Lift the camera cable bracket out from the upper case.
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Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case:
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One 3.5 mm Phillips screw.
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Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws.
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You most likely need a jewelers screwdriver to remove the two 2.5 mm screws. they are very tiny and very tight
ph 000 will do the trick
I ruined the head of the 3.5 mm Phillips screw. What kind of screw is this (M1, M1.2, ...?)?
I know this is a little late, but I found a part number from another guide. It says that all three of those screws are the same. Here is the part number for that screw: 922-8662, and here is a link to what I found on that screw: https://www.impactcomputers.com/922-8662...
Under the "specifications" tab, it says that they are M2.
The top screw was locked tight for me also and I eventually stripped the phillips screw head. The only thing I could do is drill it out. Since I replaced the optical drive with an SSD, I didn't need the screw after all.
And this is just bad business:
I ordered the iFixit set exactly for (see title above) - installing Dual Drive! All happy, there I sit with my new little screwdriver set, step one, two, and then…this garbage here. The iFixit Screwdriver base is too FAT, to get those two micro screws, holding Optical Drive…imagine my disappointment, misfire of this investment.
So I had to…borrow the screwdriver from a friend, to finish the job.
If someone from the company reads this - Your handle is too %#*@ thick - do something!
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Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up off the logic board.
There may be a small adhesive pad on top of this connector; gently peel it off and save it for re-application during reassembly.
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Remove the following four screws securing the subwoofer and right speaker to the upper case:
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Two 3.2 mm Phillips screws.
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One 2.6 mm Phillips screw.
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One 5 mm Phillips screw.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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The A1286 has no Access Door.!!
I actually can see no sign of the battery!...
aguib - Ответить
I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.
lgc90 - Ответить
when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?
irishking - Ответить
Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?
Max
Max - Ответить
On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 Hard Drive Replacement , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.
Can you confirm this?
Many thanks in advance.
ahothabeth - Ответить
My display and aluminum casing has separated.
I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.
I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.
I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping
portion have been broken........
SHerwood Ball - Ответить
When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?
thvv - Ответить
We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.
Andrew Optimus Goldberg -
Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.
I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.
The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.
Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!
landryd - Ответить
Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?
jegonzalez80 - Ответить