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Введение

Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly on your MacBook Pro, in order to fix a cracked or faulty screen. This assembly also includes the integrated ribbon cables for the display and backlight.

Although we’ve successfully tested this procedure using original Apple replacement displays, Apple’s T2 chip may prevent aftermarket displays from working correctly, and your MacBook Pro may not boot as a result.

For your safety, discharge your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% before you begin. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Ответить

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Ответить

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Ответить

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Ответить

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Ответить

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Ответить

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Ответить

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Ответить

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Ответить

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Ответить

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Ответить

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Ответить

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Ответить

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Ответить

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Ответить

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Four 3.7 mm screws

    • Two 7.3 mm screws

    • Note how the screws come out at a slight angle—you must reinstall them the same way.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

  2. Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes. Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

  3. Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

    I recommend being careful while sliding as you can scratch the speaker. The actual clip is about halfway up the side, whereas the speaker is closer to the front (further from the hinge). So stay very shallow with just the tip of the pick until you get halfway up the side.

    Eric Gauderman - Ответить

  4. Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
    • Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

    Same advice that I gave for the other side — be careful not to scratch the speaker which is close to the bottom. Keep the pick shallow until you get halfway up the side.

    Eric Gauderman - Ответить

  5. Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
    • Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

    • Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover should pop free at this point, if they haven't already.

    • Don't lift more than an inch or so, and don't try to remove the lower case yet.

  6. Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    This was made a lot easier by using a lever in the hinge area in combination with pulling. The amount of force required was more than the grip I could get on the metal allowed for my macbook.

    James Andariese - Ответить

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case: Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

  8. Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
    • Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

  9. Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector. Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

  10. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board. Slide parallel to the logic board. Don't pull up.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board. Don't pull up.

  12. Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector. Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.
    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.

    Be very careful - the locking flap is very easy to break.

    Vaughan - Ответить

    I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

    Carlos Morales - Ответить

  13. Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely. Take care not to reinstall this cable backwards or upside-down.
    • Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely.

    • Take care not to reinstall this cable backwards or upside-down.

    I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

    Carlos Morales - Ответить

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  15. Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

  16. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable. Remove the display board flex cover.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

    • Remove the display board flex cover.

  17. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector. Remove the display board cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

    • Remove the display board cable connector bracket.

  18. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

  19. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side). Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).

  20. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers.
    • Remove both hinge covers.

  21. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

  22. Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket. Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.
    • Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  23. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board. Before reinstalling these screws: Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.

    • Before reinstalling these screws:

    • Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.

    Needed a T4, not T5 on mine. It’s unclear if it’s my bits or my laptop that disagree with this step’s directions. If your T5 doesn’t fit though, don’t force it. See if a T4 fits. If it’s like mine, it will fit perfectly with no play.

    James Andariese - Ответить

  24. Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly (eight on each side). These small screws can strip easily, so apply firm, consistent pressure when removing.
    • Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly (eight on each side).

    • These small screws can strip easily, so apply firm, consistent pressure when removing.

    Before this step, note those two yellow circles (copper) towards the inside of the laptop and next to the red circles around the antenna screws. They are the result of two T4s that were removed.

    You can see the black screw heads in Step 24 and they’re just copper rings with no screw in Step 25.

    There are two additional screws along this row which will need to be removed. Once done, the assembly they were holding down will be loose and your antenna assembly will also feel more free. Gently pry it upwards. It will not require much force. Significantly less than I was trying to apply to it before realizing the instructions were wrong.

    If your antenna assembly won’t budge after following the directions, this is what’s missing.

    James Andariese - Ответить

    Hey James! I'm not sure which screws you’re talking about. Are these screws in addition to the four already marked in Step 24?

    Carsten Frauenheim -

  25. Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro. Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables. Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.
    • Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro.

    • Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.

  26. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink. During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it. During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

  27. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.

  28. Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 5.0 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total). Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.
    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 5.0 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).

    • Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.

  29. Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer and lid angle sensor connectors.
    • Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer and lid angle sensor connectors.

  30. Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board.

    • Remove the bracket.

  31. Disconnect the lid angle sensor cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the lid angle sensor cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the lid angle sensor cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  32. During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws. If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.
    • During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws.

    • If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.

    • If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.

  33. If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step. Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.
    • If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.

    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

  34. Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 5.0 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge). Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly. Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.
    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 5.0 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge).

    • Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.

  35. Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step. Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis. Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

  36. Remove the screen.
    • Remove the screen.

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

12 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Carsten Frauenheim

Участник с: 10.03.2020

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Комментариев: 8

Anybody know the screen part# or where to find it?

lamajr - Ответить

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

haddad biadja - Ответить

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

Jean Christophe BOURBON - Ответить

Is it possible to boot up the machine without the screen attached (and use external displays only)?

Pravin Jayasinghe - Ответить

Great guide, covers the details nicely. I would add that the nvram command no longer works as of firmware in Big Sur. We don’t have too much trouble with that, however. Shut down the machine, and make sure to not open the lid or do anything else until the battery is disconnected.

I will also note that we’ve never had a T3 screwdriver not strip unless we cut the tip off the torx; the screws Apple uses never seem to be happy until that is done. Haven’t see anyone else complain about that, though, so maybe it’s just us!

In case anyone is wondering: as long as your part is OEM, it shouldn’t give any issues with the T2 chip. Most assemblies are not sold with the screen angle sensor, however, so that needs to be transferred to the new assembly. That’s just a matter of unscrewing the one screw that holds it to the clutch and then attaching it to the new one in the same way.

help - Ответить

My Macbook is space gray and the display you guys have is grey.The description is clear but i don’t think i’ll be able to replace it by myself.I better make an effort and buy another one.

mtffreire - Ответить

My screen gets glitch lines but only if I open it up past 25-30 degrees. So I’m thinking it is something mechanical with the hinge and the connecting wires. any insight?

gregg curtis - Ответить

I started getting horizontal lines 2 mm apart on my screen. Lines would vanish when screen was closed to a smaller angle (30 degrees) and then reappear, when opening wider. Also experienced occasions ghosting of images or overlapping app windows. Took the MBP 16 to the Apple Store for further diagnosis. Techs indicated that it could be a loose display cable. They offered to check for a possible loose display cable and re-seat it. If not resolved, said display would have to be replaced. For what it’s worth. (Apple offline and online diagnostics performed all indicated no other hardware problems, with the GPU, etc. Problem seemed to be diagnosed. Attaching an external display is also helpful in diagnostic of the GPU. The Apple Store near me, quoted $599 for the Apple display and $79 for install.

freaman -

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