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  1. Этот шаг не переведен. Помогите перевести

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    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - Ответить

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Ответить

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Ответить

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Ответить

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Ответить

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Ответить

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Ответить

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Ответить

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Ответить

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Ответить

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Ответить

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Ответить

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Ответить

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Ответить

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Ответить

    I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?

    peter sussex -

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Ответить

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Ответить

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Ответить

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Ответить

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet - Ответить

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham - Ответить

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 - Ответить

    For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

    Nicholas R Licato - Ответить

    Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
    I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

    Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

    Cédric Bontems - Ответить

    After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.

    Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.

    No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.

    Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.

    webrockers - Ответить

    I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.

    I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.

    webrockers -

  2. Этот шаг не переведен. Помогите перевести

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    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Four 3.7 mm screws

    • Two 7.3 mm screws

    • Note how the screws come out at a slight angle—you must reinstall them the same way.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

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    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

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    • Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

    I recommend being careful while sliding as you can scratch the speaker. The actual clip is about halfway up the side, whereas the speaker is closer to the front (further from the hinge). So stay very shallow with just the tip of the pick until you get halfway up the side.

    Eric Gauderman - Ответить

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    • Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

    Same advice that I gave for the other side — be careful not to scratch the speaker which is close to the bottom. Keep the pick shallow until you get halfway up the side.

    Eric Gauderman - Ответить

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    • Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

    • Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover should pop free at this point, if they haven't already.

    • Don't lift more than an inch or so, and don't try to remove the lower case yet.

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    • Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    This was made a lot easier by using a lever in the hinge area in combination with pulling. The amount of force required was more than the grip I could get on the metal allowed for my macbook.

    James Andariese - Ответить

    Thank you for this comment! 🙏
    For me it was the same way, wasn't able to get enough grip to pull sufficiently - but gently levering near the hinge with a spudger to "push" the bottom panel away worked well!

    BavarianBamboo -

    There is no pulling required. Use an opening pick or a spudger at the hinge area to gently and easily nudge the bottom panel off the clips. It should be effortless.

    Marc Jacobson - Ответить

    If you do pull on the bottom case be careful of where you place the hand supporting the Mac, otherwise you'll make a blood sacrifice to the Mac gods! I placed my other hand too close to the feet on the bottom case and while removing it, the sharp edge of the bottom case sliced into my thumb.

    o355 - Ответить

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    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

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    • Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

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    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

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    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board. Don't pull up.

    들어올려서 떨어지면 어떻게 해야하나요…ㅠㅠ

    obbamanse87 - Ответить

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    • Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.

    Be very careful - the locking flap is very easy to break.

    Vaughan - Ответить

    I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

    Carlos Morales - Ответить

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    • Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely.

    • Take care not to reinstall this cable backwards or upside-down.

    I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.

    Carlos Morales - Ответить

    Putting a mark on the cable will be helpful when reinstalling so you don't put it backwards or upside down.

    maccentric - Ответить

    This isn't necessary for many repairs, such as the Screen Replacement. I just lift the cable out of the way enough to do the next few steps and leave it attached.

    maccentric - Ответить

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 6.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

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    • Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

    • Remove the display board flex cover.

    Maybe your T4 is worn? I had to use T3. For the next step too.

    maccentric -

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

    • Remove the display board cable connector bracket.

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    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).

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    • Remove both hinge covers.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

    On the i5 model bundle is on the right side of the one fan

    Bernie Liu - Ответить

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    • Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.

    • Before reinstalling these screws:

    • Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.

    Needed a T4, not T5 on mine. It’s unclear if it’s my bits or my laptop that disagree with this step’s directions. If your T5 doesn’t fit though, don’t force it. See if a T4 fits. If it’s like mine, it will fit perfectly with no play.

    James Andariese - Ответить

    It was T5 for me

    maccentric -

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    • Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly (eight on each side).

    • These small screws can strip easily, so apply firm, consistent pressure when removing.

    Before this step, note those two yellow circles (copper) towards the inside of the laptop and next to the red circles around the antenna screws. They are the result of two T4s that were removed.

    You can see the black screw heads in Step 24 and they’re just copper rings with no screw in Step 25.

    There are two additional screws along this row which will need to be removed. Once done, the assembly they were holding down will be loose and your antenna assembly will also feel more free. Gently pry it upwards. It will not require much force. Significantly less than I was trying to apply to it before realizing the instructions were wrong.

    If your antenna assembly won’t budge after following the directions, this is what’s missing.

    James Andariese - Ответить

    Hey James! I'm not sure which screws you’re talking about. Are these screws in addition to the four already marked in Step 24?

    Carsten Frauenheim -

    The instruction is correct, these strip easily! Use a lot of light and care!

    I stripped one of the 16 screws and that was the end of that fastening point, I had to use physical force to break it off the assembly. Miraculously, the assembly appears to be still functional

    Fixit Connexit - Ответить

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    • Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro.

    • Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.

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    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

    When reassembling this, don't forget to have the display board's cables that go to the display be under the antenna assembly. I screwed in 16 screws before realizing this!

    Michael Yin - Ответить

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.

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    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 5.0 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).

    • Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.

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    • Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer and lid angle sensor connectors.

    In der Darstellung wurde das MacBook gedreht.

    sunshine - Ответить

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    • Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board.

    • Remove the bracket.

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    • Disconnect the lid angle sensor cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

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    • Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the 1.9 mm-long screw securing the lid angle sensor.

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    • Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the lid angle sensor up from the frame and release it from its metal peg.

    • Remove the lid angle sensor.

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    • During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws.

    • If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.

    • If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.

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    • If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.

    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

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    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 5.0 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge).

    • Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.

    I perform this step, with all my MacBook screen replacements, with the main body keyboard down on my workbench, and the screen assembly hanging off and supported by my legs. This way, when I take the screws out, I don't need to worry about the main body of the laptop, and the screen assembly does not go anywhere. I have much finer control over lifting and removing the screen assembly. This prevents any instability and prevents the hinges from accidentally hitting any components on the logic board, which can cause severe damage on some models.

    Marc Jacobson - Ответить

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    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

  39. Этот шаг не переведен. Помогите перевести

    : шаг 39, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the screen.

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38 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Carsten Frauenheim

Участник с: 03/10/20

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Anybody know the screen part# or where to find it?

Macrepair SF - Ответить

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

haddad biadja - Ответить

Ou est ce qu’on trouve l’écran ?

Jean Christophe BOURBON - Ответить

Is it possible to boot up the machine without the screen attached (and use external displays only)?

Pravin Jayasinghe - Ответить

yes USBC to HDMI

jim -

Great guide, covers the details nicely. I would add that the nvram command no longer works as of firmware in Big Sur. We don’t have too much trouble with that, however. Shut down the machine, and make sure to not open the lid or do anything else until the battery is disconnected.

I will also note that we’ve never had a T3 screwdriver not strip unless we cut the tip off the torx; the screws Apple uses never seem to be happy until that is done. Haven’t see anyone else complain about that, though, so maybe it’s just us!

In case anyone is wondering: as long as your part is OEM, it shouldn’t give any issues with the T2 chip. Most assemblies are not sold with the screen angle sensor, however, so that needs to be transferred to the new assembly. That’s just a matter of unscrewing the one screw that holds it to the clutch and then attaching it to the new one in the same way.

help - Ответить

My Macbook is space gray and the display you guys have is grey.The description is clear but i don’t think i’ll be able to replace it by myself.I better make an effort and buy another one.

mtffreire - Ответить

My screen gets glitch lines but only if I open it up past 25-30 degrees. So I’m thinking it is something mechanical with the hinge and the connecting wires. any insight?

gregg curtis - Ответить

I started getting horizontal lines 2 mm apart on my screen. Lines would vanish when screen was closed to a smaller angle (30 degrees) and then reappear, when opening wider. Also experienced occasions ghosting of images or overlapping app windows. Took the MBP 16 to the Apple Store for further diagnosis. Techs indicated that it could be a loose display cable. They offered to check for a possible loose display cable and re-seat it. If not resolved, said display would have to be replaced. For what it’s worth. (Apple offline and online diagnostics performed all indicated no other hardware problems, with the GPU, etc. Problem seemed to be diagnosed. Attaching an external display is also helpful in diagnostic of the GPU. The Apple Store near me, quoted $599 for the Apple display and $79 for install.

freaman -

Great guide. It doesn't include the replacement of the lid angle sensor. I had to disconnect it from the old screen and re-attach it to the new one. I also got really worried because it didn't turn on when I first tried to restart. I had to plug it in and hold the power button for a few seconds before it came back on. Definitely gave me a freight.

owenbrewer4 - Ответить

Good morning all !

the screen of my Macbook Pro 16 "from 2019 has just given up. The screen remains black despite all the attempts by Apple technicians. I would like to use it without the original one, leaving it hanging as I used to habit on my two external screens. Do you think it is possible to start it without its screen connected and at the same time take advantage of the speakers, the USB C sockets, the touch bar, and the trackpad Thank you in advance!

Élie BINGUE - Ответить

Good repair guide! I just swapped out my display with no issues. I'd consider adding the step to swap out the screen angle sensor, as mine (and most replacement displays, apparently) didn't come with a new one and it had to be swapped over. FWIW my screen was showing as over-saturated with blown-out highlights, some ghosting of background windows through the front window, strange shadows from smaller windows--tilting the screen to mostly closed would make it better, but not fix it entirely. Brand New display sourced from Ebay ($550) fixed it right up. Thanks for the great guide!

Stephen Wright - Ответить

Are there any apple boobytraps like they have done with the serialization of the iPhone parts?

Shaady Abdel Nasser - Ответить

This guide was perfect! Just completed a screen replacement and this guide was gold from start to finish. Cheers!

JerryR - Ответить

how to calibrate the screen after replacing?

tamike - Ответить

I followed the guide to the letter but now the machine won’t turn on. Obviously I think somethings wrong with the battery connect but I have no idea what. Any suggestions?

Chad Verity - Ответить

When I finished mine I had the same issue, and was very worried that I would have to take it apart again. But I held the power button down for a bit longer than usual, and it eventually turned on. Maybe yours will do the same.

gluethje76 -

How do you run the System Configuration that Apple requires for the T2 security chip?

Steve Rea - Ответить

I bought the "Apple MacBook Pro A2141 16" 2019 LCD Screen" on EBay for $300 USD.

I bought the "GogoFix Precision Pro Aluminum Alloy Screwdriver Tool Kit" on Amazon for $20 USD. (ALL the tools you need).

You do NOT need the "TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver". The regular "T8 Torx" screwdriver in the kit above is what you need.

These instructions are truly amazing, and I want to thank the author very much! <3

My only advice is buy 15 small baggies, and label them with the step number of the instructions as you place screws in the bags.

Paul Wiens - Ответить

An ice cube tray or bead sorting tray is an easy way to keep track of the screws.

maccentric -

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