Введение
Note: You'll need JIS screwdrivers for this repair. Regular Phillips screwdrivers have a cross pattern with rounded inner edges and won't fully fit the slots in the JIS screws. JIS screwdrivers instead have a straight cross pattern which makes much better contact with the screw head and is made for the high torque you will need to loosen the screws.
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Remove the five screws on the bottom of the camera with a JIS #000 head screwdriver.
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Remove the 3 screws under the battery flap and remove the bottom cover.
There is an addition screw at the very top of the battery bay. If you don't remove this screw, you will damage the core body of the camera (Ask me how I know).
Yes. There is another screw inside the battery bay. You save a lot of D7100 👍
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Remove the 2 screws on each side of the view finder.
Only 1 screw on each side of viewfinder totaling 2 screws, 1 on the left and 1 on the right.
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Remove the 2 screws above and below the SD card flap.
the two screws under the car door turn very hard (D7200). I affixed a 25mm plastic (delrin) wheel on my JIS 00 + screwdriver for better torque. This worked.
Step 7 might be skipped, if you just need to get at the LCD screen. This side panel with the car slits only supports the lower screw for the back panel in step 8. The back panel might lift off in step 10, without removing the side panel of step 7. If step 10 does not lift off, do step 7 preceding step 10.
This step has 4 screws total. 2 above and 2 below. You throw off the screw count if you don't label each step correctly. Not a mistake but a bit of a play on words making a quick glance seem deceptive.
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Remove the Diopter adjustment control sticker and remove the screw under it.
If you skipped step 7, you have to loosen the 4 step 7 screws by about 1mm to get the back panel off cleanly in the next step.
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Disconnect the LCD ribbon cables and power cable from the motherboard.
Flip up the dark grey tab on the ribbon cable connector with your fingernail to release the clamp before removal. When reassembling ensure the cable is fully reinserted then push the tab back down to lock.
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Unscrew all 16 screws around the back plate of the camera.
This does not need to be done whatsoever for mode dial replacement. This is only needed if you are replacing the screen.
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Then unscrew the remaining screws holding the back plate to the LCD.
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Then simply remove the plate with the LCD.
When starting disassembly group each set of removed screws from each disassembly section and GROUP them, put an earbud cleaner or similar inbetween each group of screws to seperate them as you progress through the disassembly. Then you can work back in reverse when you have installed the new LCD screen. Remember to use a dust blower to remove flakes of the old LCD after installing the new LCD before starting to put the screws back.
I used about 15 ziplocked bags to hold each step screws parts in. Having hard time removing's LCD glass from frame .
This does not need to be done whatsoever for mode dial replacement. This is only needed if you are replacing the screen.
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Undo the 5 ribbon cable connectors by flipping the latches up with a plastic spudger.
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Remove the black 4 pin connector by pulling it out of the connector.
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Remove the 7 screws holding the motherboard in place.
These are 7 identical JIS #00 screws with a length of 4.4 mm.
Inspect the motherboard and ensure that all ribbon cables have been disconnected. Two ribbon cables hide underneath other ribbon cables (top right, bottom left).
The power cable is routed along the real-time clock battery and kept in place with yellow mylar tape. Gently lift the tape to release the power cable and then reattach it to reuse it later when reassembling the camera body.
Remove the motherboard by gently lifting the bottom right corner and gently pulling the motherboard a bit to the right and then rotating it a bit clockwise to dislodge it from the left side.
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Remember to replace your broken components. Then follow the instructions in reverse order to reassemble your device.
Remember to replace your broken components. Then follow the instructions in reverse order to reassemble your device.
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Команду
USF Tampa, Team S11-G6, Cheng Spring 2018 Участник USF Tampa, Team S11-G6, Cheng Spring 2018
USFT-CHENG-S18S11G6
4 членов
Автор 6 руководств
2Комментарии к руководству
Great guide. I utilized Alexander's instructions successfully in order to remove the LCD screen on the back as well as removing the motherboard in order to swab out remnants of a soda that my Nikon D7200 drank when the soda burst in my camera bag, it was a hot day that day. The instructions worked out beautifully and the only things I would recommend is to take care with counting the amounts of screws removed for each step. Step 6 has 2 screws to be removed and Step 7 has 4 screws to be removed. Also make a note of the different sizes of screws, shorter or longer, and their respective locations so that the reassembly is done correctly. The operation on my camera was a success as it allowed me to find areas where soda had dried and impeded some of the copper grounding connections inside of the camera body causing an "Err" message and rendering my camera inoperable. I thank Alexander and the other contributors for putting this out into the world, you saved me some serious cash side stepping camera repair costs.
Great guide indeed!
After installing the new motherboard, are there any software settings that "authorized Nikon service only do" or can everything work without it?
