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Введение

A prerequisite guide for disconnecting the Li-ion battery in a Nintendo Switch.

  1. Remove the four 6.3 mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.
    • Remove the four 6.3 mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.

    Please be careful with these screws. Your bit will go through them like butter and strip them if you're not careful. Speaking from experience.

    Benjamin Fryar - Ответить

  2. Remove the single 6.1 mm Phillips #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.
    • Remove the single 6.1 mm Phillips #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.

    Mine was no longer than about 1mm.

    Nani - Ответить

    Agree. This was a very short screw.

    Paul Swinglehurst - Ответить

  3. Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the device.
    • Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the device.

  4. Remove the single 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the top of the device.
    • Remove the single 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the top of the device.

    This one didn’t want to come out on its own, and only came loose when I completed the rest of the steps to remove the rear panel, as I pulled the panel off.

    Matt Silver - Ответить

  5. Manta Driver Kit

    112 bits for every fix.

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    Manta Driver Kit

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  6. Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail. Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.
    • Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail.

    • Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.

    Please do not use a JIS #0 bit on this kit. I ended up stripping the screw on my switch and now I won't be able to get inside. You are much more likely to remove this screw with a JIS #000 bit, like literally every other screw on this machine. Why I thought I should throughly read and follow the instructions is beyond me, because I guess this ifixit guy decided it would be a great meme to get people to ruin their switches.

    Jacob Klinkenberg - Ответить

    +1, JIS #0 seems way too large; I used a #00 and that worked. I agree that #000 might have worked even better, but I saw this comment too late.

    Nikolai Knopp -

    Mine was #000 too. #0 was definitely too large. Also there are signs of blue threadlock.

    Nani - Ответить

    tried using #000 and #00 but the screw wont turn, any ideas why

    thawdon - Ответить

    Ive been trying to unscrew with the correct 000 bit for like 5 minutes and it wont unscrew :/ please help asap

    xenomorphic/dark Mewtwo - Ответить

  7. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.
    • Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.

    You appear to be missing a step. The SD card reader needs to be removed between steps 6 and 7.

    zharin - Ответить

    Achtet darauf die Backplate nicht zu kippen, wie es die Bilder vermuten lassen. Ich habe beim nach Hinten klappen ein Plastikgewinde an der Backplate abgebrochen. Aufpassen.

    I think the picture is a bit misleading. I tiltet the plate while I was removing it what resulted in an broken off screwmount.

    Leon Grell - Ответить

  8. Remove the single 3.1 mm Phillips screw from micro SD card board.
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm Phillips screw from micro SD card board.

  9. Gently lift the micro SD card board straight up, away from the Switch to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, line up the micro SD card board and lightly press on the foam pad until the press connector snaps into place to reconnect it.
    • Gently lift the micro SD card board straight up, away from the Switch to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, line up the micro SD card board and lightly press on the foam pad until the press connector snaps into place to reconnect it.

    I cant get the card reader to stay connected to the motherboard when trying to reassemble it. Help needed.

    aNtHoNy R - Ответить

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - Ответить

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - Ответить

    Directions were great and very helpful! Saved time and money doing myself.

    David Ross - Ответить

    I found that tightening the screw for the sd reader all the way down caused the original sd reader to not seat correctly.

    Jimmy Le - Ответить

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow - Ответить

    I finished the repair and its not recognizing anything. Ive downloaded a couple more games to the hard drive while I was procrastinating the repair, could a desyncronization issue be causing this?

    David Huser - Ответить

    I have the new reader plugged in but my nintendo switch wont turn on now.

    Deadlypizzaman - Ответить

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison - Ответить

    The Y screws are horrible. The bit in the took kit only managed to get two of them out. I have a Y0 bit that got the other two out. What a stupid design those are. Kit should include replacement screws and maybe a new foam pad for the SD Card Reader. New SD card module is tricky to get the connection.

    Garrett ewald - Ответить

  10. Remove the six 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the shield plate.
    • Remove the six 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the shield plate.

    Between Step 6 and Step 7, there is a missing step of disconnecting and removing the SD Card reader.

    Theo Mat - Ответить

    @theomat Step 7 and 8 show the removal of the SD Card reader.

    Blake Klein - Ответить

    Step 7 and 8 do not show that. It is completely missing. You show the card reader as being absent, but now how it came to BE absent. A lot of people will try to pull the shield out, presuming the reader is meant to come out with it. Why not update the guide?

    Daniel Henderson - Ответить

    Are you seeing something different then what’s seen in this screenshot? https://jmp.sh/PdfdhSy

    Blake Klein -

    @blakeklein I am not seeing that part of the tutorial, no.

    Nico Robin - Ответить

    Now I need to find the screw type of this sd card reader ^^

    Maybe my last 3.1mm philips #000 screw? (reassembling phase)

    Julien Plée - Ответить

  11. Remove the shield plate from the device. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.
    • Remove the shield plate from the device.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Ответить

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    I’d recommend replacing the thermal compound to ensure that the cooling system works as intended.

    Blake Klein - Ответить

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Ответить

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Ответить

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    I really don’t understand in what areas I should be replacing the thermal paste.

    Do I leave the giant pink glob that’s present on the back plate or replace that as well?

    Or do I only apply it under the heat sink and on the motherboard?

    Nik Terzic - Ответить

  12. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.
    • Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Еще один человек закончил это руководство.

Blake Klein

Участник с: 29.01.2017

52 015 Репутация

Автор 49 руководств

Комментариев: 2

You forgot to include removing the middle screws from both sides of the rails and also removing the screw from the SD card (As well as the SD card module itself) BEFORE removing the shield plate. I would also throw in a caution about removing the battery if you aren’t going to use the adhesive removal solvant as one could potentially damage the on board battery connector or the ribbon cable, depending on what they use to pry the battery out of the case. Other than that, great guide and it helped me to replace my battery w/o issues.

Kevin Chatterton II - Ответить

You’re absolutely correct—thanks for catching that! I’ve updated the guides.

Blake Klein -

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