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Введение

Follow this guide to replace a broken or faulty left Joy Con sensor rail on the Nintendo Switch game console.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide  the controller upward.
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other controller. Repeat this same process for the other controller.
    • Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other controller.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

    cday - Ответить

  3. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis - Ответить

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown - Ответить

    We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

    Brooklyn Gardner - Ответить

    Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

    cday - Ответить

    Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

    Benjamin Fritz - Ответить

  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - Ответить

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

    Ryan Quinn -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - Ответить

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo - Ответить

  5. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

  7. Open the game card cartridge flap. The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - Ответить

  8. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

  9. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - Ответить

    Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

    Jonathan Stachewicz -

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - Ответить

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow - Ответить

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison - Ответить

    Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

    William Scott - Ответить

    The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

    The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

    Matthias_ Links - Ответить

    I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

    Wes Stephenson - Ответить

    My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

    Nate Topical - Ответить

    Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

    I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

    Wende David - Ответить

    I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

    Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - Ответить

    Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

    cravenkeo khamone - Ответить

  10. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

  11. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech - Ответить

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

  12. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate up. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate up.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Ответить

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Ответить

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Ответить

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

    Amanda Nally - Ответить

    Hi Amanda,

    Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  14. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con rail data cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con rail data cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con rail data cable's ZIF connector.

  15. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  16. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.

  17. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.

  18. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the left Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the left Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.

    • These screws are torqued down and can be difficult to remove. Make sure you're using a JIS screwdriver—not a Phillips screwdriver—during this procedure. Otherwise, you risk stripping the screws.

  19. Remove the left Joy Con sensor rail from the device. Remove the left Joy Con sensor rail from the device.
    • Remove the left Joy Con sensor rail from the device.

    Is the silver section on the ribbon of the rail, close to where it locks in, important? My replacement part I bought doesn't have one, and I can't find anything specified about it anywhere.

    Angel Lawson - Ответить

    Hello, Angel! That silver section has the adhesive to hold the ribbon cable in place, but it’s not a crucial component. If you can plug in the ribbon cable and the rail works just fine, then that’s probably good enough!

    Craig Lloyd -

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

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Craig Lloyd

Участник с: 10.02.2016

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Комментариев: 3

If this was a neon Switch, this would be the rail that gets attached with the blue or the red joy con?

felipemanzur21 - Ответить

it would be the Blue joy con

Nick Heilman -

I completed this guide, but the left joy con is still not being detected after the sensor rail was replaced with a sensor rail purchased on this site. The joy con in question will attach and sync with another console, so that leads me to believe it is a fault with the switch console itself. Is there something else that I can replace that would fix this issue?

Sean Douglas - Ответить

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