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Clearly visible damage on the left dome. Broken dome, missing retainer pin and clip as well as completely missing mic and mount as well as volume control button.
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Close up of the damaged dome.
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This is the mounting hole for the boom mic
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Since this dome does not have any of the retainer pins or clips, it simply slides out of the fork
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This view shows the well worn filters (foam)
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This is the connector for the boom mic.
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One more view of the complete headset
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Start removing the earseal by simply lifting it out of the groove in the dome.
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Remove the earseal
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Remove the foam filter
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The speaker is now visible with more foam filters
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Remove the next filter
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one more filter removed shows the screws for the speaker.
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Remove the next filter. Notice the different shapes of the filters.
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After the filter removal, inside damage of the dome becomes visible. In this case the standoff for the speaker screw was broken off.
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Remove the mounting screw for the filter.
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Lift the speaker out of the dome. The wires are still attached, so do not try to pull to hard.
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Flip the speaker over to reveal the wire connection and the last filter. Originally this headset will only have three different foam filters
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This is the last foam filter. All the wiring will be beneath this filter
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Here is the complete wiring
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Crossover cable
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Microphone cable
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Main cable (Communication cord)
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Volume control
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and more broken pieces. The screw comes from the boom mic guide.
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Long screw was originally for the speaker, The short screw and washer are from the boom mic guide. Plenty of plastic from the broken standoff inside the dome.
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One more look at all the wiring.
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and here a bit closer. This will be needed for reassembly.
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Remove the speaker wire by loosening the two slotted screws
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Remove the speaker
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More views of the wiring.
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Here is the broken standoff with the missing plastic.
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First to remove the mic cable. All connections in this headset are soldered. If possible, slide the heat shrink off the soldered connections to separate them with a soldering iron
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these are the cord clips holding which prevent the cables from being pulled out of the dome.
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The connections where the heat shrink tubing can not be removed, are cut with a pair of pliers.
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With the mic cable connected, pull the cable inside the dome to gain easy access to the cord clip
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Squeeze the cord clip with a pair of pliers.
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Remove the cord clip
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Remove the mic cable
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Next remove the crossover cable.
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If the heatshrink tubing can not be removed from the connection, cut it with a pair of pliers.
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Pull the cable into the dome
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Pull the crossover cable toward the inside of the dome to gain access to the cord clip
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Place a pair of pliers on the outside tabs of the cord clip
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by squeezing the pliers shut, the cord clip will expand and can then be easily removed.
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With the cord clip removed, simply pull the crossover cable out of the dome.
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The last connection is the main cable to the volume control potentiometer
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unsolder that connection (or cut with pair of pliers if unable the heatshrink tubing)
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Volume control and main cable are now disconnected .
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Pull the main cable into thedome to get access to the cord clip.
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Place a pair of pliers on the long tabs of the cord clip,
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by squeezing the pliers shut, the cord clip will widen and come loose
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remove the main cable.
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Next use a small jewelers screwdriver and push on edge of the rubber grommet into the dome
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carefully work around the grommet pushing it gently into the dome.
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Remove the grommet
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Again use a small jewelers screw driver for the grommet of the crossover cable
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The elongated grommet for the main cable will have to be removed from the inside out.
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Here are the two small grommets for the mic and crossover cable, as well as the elongated one for the main cable.
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The speaker control potentiometer is held in place with a 5/16 hex nut.
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remove the hex nut.
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Remove the volume control from the inside of the dome.
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All the cables and parts have now been removed. On the left is the replacement dome.
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Here is my replacement David Clark Aviation Headset Microphone Mic M101. this is not original for this model headset.
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Here is the new boom mic guide kit hardware.
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Each boom mic guide kit could be different, so follow the instructions the accompany the set.
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Here is the boom mic guide mounted to the left dome. For the rest of the reassembly, follow this guide in reverse order.
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