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Введение

The upper case assembly includes the keyboard. Use this guide to replace the entire case/keyboard assembly as a single unit.

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

    Chris Leeds - Ответить

    The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

    abscate - Ответить

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges. Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case. Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  2. While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  3. Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle. It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button. If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds. If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

    Laurent Pierre - Ответить

    on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

    aaron_vandyke2003 - Ответить

    Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

    mmcsorley - Ответить

    After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

    Richard Lovatt - Ответить

    It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

    Luk Chl - Ответить

    mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

    cristian.campuzano - Ответить

    Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

    Brandon Elliott - Ответить

    May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

    Xiubo Zhang - Ответить

    There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

    I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

    Kinda stuck….

    Carlos Perez - Ответить

    Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

    eestern - Ответить

  5. Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  6. Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

  7. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    Where can I find a replacement cable?

    John Comix - Ответить

  8. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

    abscate - Ответить

  9. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  10. Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up. Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it. Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.
    • Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up.

    • Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

  11. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

    * I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

    Chris Leeds - Ответить

    What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

    Does the new one just stick back right on top?

    (In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

    Elizabeth Erkelens - Ответить

    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

    What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

    DSANTIAGOSOY - Ответить

    If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

    Adam O'Camb -

  12. Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

    Y'vonne Feeney - Ответить

    You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

    bfg737 - Ответить

    With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

    Paul Nishikawa - Ответить

    This was #000 for me as well

    Adam Hupp - Ответить

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board. To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

    Aki Mochi - Ответить

  14. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  15. Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    • At this point it is possible to open the macbook all the way and to lay it flat on a table without causing any damage to the flex cables.

    Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

    Timothy Dinkelman - Ответить

  16. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.

    I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

    John Conklin - Ответить

    Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

    abscate - Ответить

  17. It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape. If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.
    • It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape.

    • If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.

  18. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.

    • Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.

    • Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.

    • Take care not to damage the cable. If the adhesive is very strong, heat the case directly beneath the cable with an iOpener to soften the adhesive, and then try again.

    Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

    maccentric - Ответить

  19. Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
    • Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    • Immediately close the retaining flap.

    • The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the closed connector. Take care not to crimp or damage the cable. When fully inserted, the indentations on the sides should not be visible.

    I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

    “After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

    I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

    Thank you for your guidance!

    John Torquido - Ответить

    For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

    John Torquido - Ответить

    I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

    Sulmo Kim - Ответить

  20. Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.
    • Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.

  21. Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable. Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.

  22. Disconnect the  microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector. Disconnect the  microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector.
    • Disconnect the microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector.

    Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

    Vernon Roth - Ответить

  23. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.

  24. Remove the audio jack board.
    • Remove the audio jack board.

    After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

    piotr2503 - Ответить

  25. Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.
    • Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.

    If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30

    Marco Romani - Ответить

  26. Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case. Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case. Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.
    • Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.

    very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10

    zimmerninja - Ответить

    The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic

    Tolu Fapohunda - Ответить

  27. Remove the dual microphone assembly.
    • Remove the dual microphone assembly.

    During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?

    Andrei - Ответить

    Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.

    Eduardo Chavez - Ответить

  28. Remove two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the USB-C port.
    • Remove two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the USB-C port.

    I didn’t notice this when removing the USB-C port, but it seems to be a little loose under the screws. I have another MacBook of the same vintage and found that its USB-C port also has a little movement when a cable is plugged in. Not much movement, just a little.

    woikelaw - Ответить

    I missed this comment when I did this job but observed the same

    No apparent effect on function

    abscate - Ответить

    It would have been a help to have pointed out that actually folding the end of this ribbon cable at the USB C end, as shown in your pictures, before attaching it will help to prevent the cable breaking at one of its inner corners while being installed.

    bfg737 - Ответить

    As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.

    Paul Nishikawa - Ответить

  29. Use tweezers to lift the USB-C port just over the hinge screws. Slide the port out and up over the display hinge to remove it. There's very little clearance when removing and installing the USB-C port. If there's not enough room, don't force it. Try removing the display hinge screws and moving the hinges for additional clearance, if necessary.
    • Use tweezers to lift the USB-C port just over the hinge screws.

    • Slide the port out and up over the display hinge to remove it.

    • There's very little clearance when removing and installing the USB-C port. If there's not enough room, don't force it. Try removing the display hinge screws and moving the hinges for additional clearance, if necessary.

    Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes

    1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install

    2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.

    i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons

    abscate - Ответить

    I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.

    Gabriele Nicotra - Ответить

    Step 25 only has one pic

    John M -

    He means 3rd pic of step 26.

    dmjenks -

    If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.

    maccentric - Ответить

    No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?

    The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.

    John M - Ответить

    remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out

    Seth Ferguson -

    totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude

    Seth Ferguson - Ответить

    I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone

    Steve Harris - Ответить

    I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.

    It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.

    I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.

    Mark Schira - Ответить

  30. Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly. Take care not to lose the small retaining bracket located under the right screw. If it comes loose, note the orientation shown here for reassembly. The small tab on the outer left edge should be hooked under the perforated metal shield. Take care not to lose the small retaining bracket located under the right screw. If it comes loose, note the orientation shown here for reassembly. The small tab on the outer left edge should be hooked under the perforated metal shield.
    • Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.

    • Take care not to lose the small retaining bracket located under the right screw. If it comes loose, note the orientation shown here for reassembly. The small tab on the outer left edge should be hooked under the perforated metal shield.

  31. Fully open the display.
    • Fully open the display.

    • Set the MacBook down on its right edge with the display facing away from you, as shown.

    I found putting the laptop keyboard down on the edge of a table (With screen open, and going down the side of the table) To be easier. It allowed me to put in the torque needed in unscrewing the screen.

    Michael Daken - Ответить

  32. Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges. There may be a rubber cover on the hinge screws. Remove this before removing the screws and replace it during reassembly.
    • Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges.

    • There may be a rubber cover on the hinge screws. Remove this before removing the screws and replace it during reassembly.

  33. Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case. There are only a few millimeters of play between the hinges and the case, so you won't need to push far. Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.
    • Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case.

    • There are only a few millimeters of play between the hinges and the case, so you won't need to push far.

    • Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    I had to give the screen just a little force here, for it to pop out. Its an incredibly tight fit.

    Michael Daken - Ответить

  34. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad.

  35. Using a spudger, flip open the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector. Using a spudger, flip open the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Using a spudger, flip open the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  36. Gently pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its slot in the frame. Gently pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its slot in the frame.
    • Gently pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its slot in the frame.

    Pictures seem missing? Luckily this step is pretty straightforward.

    maccentric - Ответить

  37. Remove the five 2.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the trackpad to the case.
    • Remove the five 2.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the trackpad to the case.

    • On some driver sets, a T4 driver may fit better.

    Definitely try the T4 first. And press down hard, these things strip easily.

    maccentric - Ответить

    Not a T3 and not a T4, these will strip using whichever one used (my case), maybe my screws were the bad

    Juan sanchez - Ответить

  38. Remove the trackpad assembly.
    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

    • Metal brackets on each side of the trackpad may fall away during removal. Be sure to position them as shown in the photo during reassembly.

  39. Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  40. Gently peel the keyboard ribbon cable up from the case, and remove the cable. Gently peel the keyboard ribbon cable up from the case, and remove the cable. Gently peel the keyboard ribbon cable up from the case, and remove the cable.
    • Gently peel the keyboard ribbon cable up from the case, and remove the cable.

  41. The upper case remains.
    • The upper case remains.

    Is there a possibility to remove the keyboard from the uppercase after that step?

    GEORGES GLYKOFRYDIS - Ответить

    It’s possible, but pretty hard to do. There’s no guide for this specific MacBook, but here’s a guide for removing the keyboard in a 2013 13” Macbook Pro, and a teardown of a 2018 MacBook keyboard. I definitely wouldn’t rely on the guide or teardown to remove this keyboard, but the processes should at least be similar enough to give you an idea of what’s entailed. For further information you might check our answers forum—chances are there’s someone there that knows more about this repair. Good luck!

    Adam O'Camb -

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

3 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Adam O'Camb

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Комментариев: 2

Just a warning, but when any repairs are being done on this particular model, its important to discharge the battery before disconnecting ANY cables or connections internally. Not doing so can damage logic board components or more. I was looking into the take aprt for the top case, and there was no mention about discharging the battery before cables were being disconnected so I wanted to put this on your radar. Thank you

Manny - Ответить

Hi, I would just like to make a comment about how awful the keyboard is on the 2016 “touch bar” MacBook Pro.

I repeat: It’s awful.

Josh A - Ответить

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