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Unfold the cable, on the lower side you can see circular testpins (Dia 1mm) for each wire on it, very comfortable!

Pin 9+10 (counted from right side) are on especially broad wires, this is main motor power supply for moving the complete lens in and out + zoom. You can apply 3volts between these both for moving the lens in and out. So first do this until lens unit is max. extended. Remark: this can also be quite helpful for fixing a jammed lens!

Optional check: Pin 1+3/2+4 are the coils of stepper motor for aperture. You may check resistance to see that cable is not broken. My ohm meter shows ~40ohms between 1&3 and 2&4.

If cable is really broken (quite higher/infinite resistance ), you can stop here: cable replacement does not make sense in my opinion, better replace complete lens unit then. But in fact, I've never really seen that issue of a broken cable up to now!

Pin 5+6 are the interesting ones: the solenoid for the shutter. Same applies here: if resistance between both pins is infinite, you can give up --> broken cable, mostly inside lens system. I measured between 6 and 20ohms (dpending on quality of your ohm meter+wires), as a normal value.

Now apply voltage to pin 5+6 BUT ONLY FOR A SHORT MOMENT(<1sec), ELSE YOU CAN KILL THE SOLENOID/CABLE!!!!: +3V on pin6, gnd on pin 5. This should open the shutter! As your shutter probably stucks, if you read this, it probably will not do at the first time, but you should hear the slight "click"!

If you get this "click", chances are not too bad. With fully opened lens you already may also see slight shutter movement when applying voltage

Just repeat applying these voltage shots and you may also increase it slightly, and reverse polarity. In my most cases shutter started to open at ~4.5V to 6V. Sometimes I had to increase to 11V but be aware that too high voltage as too long shots (hard to estimate?) might kill the system!!!

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