Power your iMac by replacing the power supply.

Video Overview

  1. Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.
    • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

    • This screw is captive in the access door.

    • Remove the access door from your iMac.

    • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

    • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

    • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

    • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

    • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

    • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

    • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

    • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

      • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.

      • Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

    • Place your hands at the top corners of the bezel (to the side) and lift the bezel 2-3cm from the body by working from the top. After this you can also disengage the bottom of the bezel (the memory modules will prevent the bottom of the bezel to detach first). When reassembling, start with the bottom of the bezel.

    • The top of the bezel hosts a microphone attached to the logic board. Gently lift the bezel to not damage the microphone wiring or connector by accidentally pulling the cable.

    • At this point, you can either detach the microphone cable and remove the bezel, or keep the microphone cable attached and rest the bezel on your work surface or the chassis of the Mac.

      • To fully detach the bezel: disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

      • To keep it attached, leave the microphone cable attached to the logic board, and place the bezel 'above' the chassis, with the microphone cable forming a hinge.

      • If you keep the microphone attached to the chassis, make sure you don't accidentally damage the microphone or logic board by bumping into the loose bezel.

    • When reassembling the bezel:

      • be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

      • Gently guide the microphone connector and cables through the ±1in long slot at the right of the iSight camera. Once the bezel is properly assembled, gently push the microphone connector and cable into the bezel through that slot.

    • Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.

    • When you remove the LCD, check the routing of the LCD temperature display cable. On reinstalling the display, be sure this cable does not block one of the bottom screws for the front bezel.

    • Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the data display cable to the logic board.

    • Use the attached black tab to pull the data display cable connector away from the logic board.

    • Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

    • Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.

    • With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.

    • During reinstallation, place the four inverter cable connectors in voids between components attached to the rear panel so the display panel will sit flush.

    • During reassembly, the order of the inverter cables is interchangeable within each socket.

    • If you are replacing a hard drive and have an extra set of hands, it is possible to reach in and remove the drive without disconnecting anything but the LCD temp and display connector in the previous step with the LCD in its propped position.

    • The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply to avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

    • Remove four T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear case.

    • Two fine-thread 7 mm T10 Torx

    • Two coarse-thread 7 mm T10 Torx

    • Rotate the top edge of the power supply slightly away from the rear case.

    • The single-wire connector near the upper left corner of the power supply is small and held very tightly in its socket, making it inherently difficult to remove. Be sure to pull only on the connector during removal, as pulling the cable will surely cause it to break.

    • The single wire shown in the first photo is for the power supply temperature sensor. If you have power supply temperature issues after installation, check this connection first.

    • Grab the connector between the nails on your thumb and index fingers and pull it toward the top of your iMac, disconnecting it from the power supply.

    • Rotate your power supply toward the optical drive.

    • Disconnect the DC power cable by simultaneously depressing its lock mechanism and pulling the connector away from its socket.

    • It may help to wiggle the connector while pulling it away from its socket.

    • Disconnect the AC-in cable by simultaneously squeezing the cable lock and pulling the connector away from its socket.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

88 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Комментариев: 10

Thank you thank you thank you--I fixed replaced the power supply and my computer works again!

The instructions were just on the dot--It only took me around 30 min. from start to finish.

Robert Prieto - Ответить

Thank you so much! Problem sorted, iMac saved!!

Mumoth - Ответить

Well it worked! But I have to say pulling out the temperature sensor wire requires harder nails than I have. My son ripped the wire out. But thankfully I got the answer I needed from the forum. My iMac is working great! Although there a couple missin & a couple unaccounted screws, the Mac doesn't care.

I have ordered a MacBook Pro to add mobility. When the times comes I will learn the repairs from this website. Thank you so much for all the help & wok you do for us!

ladycerridwyn - Ответить

I was able to replace the power supply, but it appears there is something else wrong with my iMac. It started normally, but slower. After I entered my password, it loaded very slowly. When the progress bar completed, it went to a pure white screen. I left it for an hour or so and decided to shut it down with the power button. This time nothing happened when the progress bar finished. I left it and went to bed. The next morning, I woke it up and it was asking for my password again. Screensaver. My computer had the pages I was viewing when the power supply gave out. Everything was slow to respond, but I eventually got the pages closed. The computer won’t respond to my commands for the most part. I’m not able to open any of the programs. Safari, mail, etc… I left a question in the forum.

Brian OToole - Ответить

During step 12 i discovered that the Power supply temperature sensor was broken, and turns out was the reason to why the PSU failed in the first place. Any tips on fixing this ?

john - Ответить

Просмотр статистики:

За 24 часа: 11

За 7 дней: 56

За 30 дней: 253

За всё время: 58,828