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Введение

Use this guide to replace Apple's proprietary blade SSD (AHCI/PCIe x2).

This guide is intended for the higher spec iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638 models that are equipped with an SSD (Fusion Drive or blade SSD configurations).

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs are fast and easy with an iMac service wedge, but can be completed without one.

    • If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

    • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

    roberttrevellyan - Ответить

    Here are a couple tips from me:

    1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

    2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

    jerrid_foiles - Ответить

    Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

    Sam Fung - Ответить

    “All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

    Chris Hughes - Ответить

    There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

    Phil Tesone - Ответить

    I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

    Ernst - Ответить

    While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

    Ernst - Ответить

  1. Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

    Richard Cook - Ответить

    As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544 Adhesive Strips Replacement

    Alan Digby - Ответить

    It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

    Nikolay - Ответить

    This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

    Ernst - Ответить

  2. Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

    Moreau - Ответить

    If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

    plasticpool - Ответить

  3. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.
    • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

  4. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

  5. Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

    arisnordico - Ответить

    Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

    P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

    P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

    And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

    dv1977 - Ответить

    After doing the replacement the adhesive still sticks quite good enough to hold the screen in place. Maybe this isn't rock-solid, but enough for me.

    Mirko - Ответить

    I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

    Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

    djfanta - Ответить

    Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

    pzhivulin -

    You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

    kaserlik - Ответить

    If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

    Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

    Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

    Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

    pzhivulin - Ответить

    omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

    now fan runs like crazy...

    Andrei Balotescu -

    The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

    Ernst - Ответить

  6. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  7. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  8. Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

    Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

    Noah Ralston - Ответить

  9. While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.
    • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

    this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

    Edgar Broekema - Ответить

    I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

    Max Romano - Ответить

    I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

    Morgana Devina - Ответить

    @ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

    Richard Giratd - Ответить

    Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

    The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

    Ernst - Ответить

    Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

    derekrobinson - Ответить

  10. Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
    • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

    • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

    This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

    Cassio Machado - Ответить

  11. Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
    • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

    • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

    You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

    Felix - Ответить

    Agreed. The card is too thick to cut through the adhesive in this way. Use the pizza cutter or a sharper blade at this point.

    Max Romano -

    Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

    Ernst - Ответить

  12. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.
    • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.

  13. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.
    • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.

  14. Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
    • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

  15. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

  16. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.
    • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

  17. With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
    • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

  18. While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    Pulling the display power cable by the wires makes me nervous..

    bstaud - Ответить

    I had a small flight light ready so I could see. Follow the directions - don’t blindly pull.

    Noah Ralston - Ответить

    Head lamp gives you the best hands free view!

    lamajr - Ответить

    bstaud - The display power cable has two squeezable levers on each end of the cable’s width.

    Squeeze the left lever with your thumb while you simultaneously squeeze the right lever with your

    index finger, and gently pull the cable straight back and out, and the cable comes out very easily.

    Ted Horodynsky - Ответить

    When reassembling, make sure you get a “click” confirmation that both the levers have locked AND the pins have seated on this connector. I was treated to a black screen upon startup, and had to re-cut my newly installed adhesive strips to get back in to firm up this connection. Better would be power up with the bottom adhesive in place, screen resting in place and held on top with blue painter tape to confirm connections, THEN pull off screen-side adhesive tape covers for final re-bonding.

    Robert McKillip - Ответить

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

    Sure could use a magnified picture of this connector and socket, especially the first time you go in. And it is the most critical step of the whole operation — bung it up and we’re toast.

    bstaud - Ответить

    Hi bstaud! If you hover over the image you can click on the magnifying glass and get a large image of any guide photo. Hope that helps!

    Sam Goldheart -

    To clarify, the connector pulls out in the plane of the logic card, not perpendicular.

    David Thompson - Ответить

  20. Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    Where can I find a replacement display for my iMac?

    Braydon Boyce - Ответить

    iFixit has listings for replacements. Go to the Parts section

    jerrid_foiles -

  21. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it. Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    • Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.

    • Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.

    • If either adhesive strip breaks before it's removed, use a plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive.

    Cutting through this extra adhesive on the bottom took a bit more effort than the step and picture implied (to me). Unlike the other edges, here don't be afraid to really push the card in there to break the seal, there's nothing behind that adhesive that is breakable.

    phil - Ответить

    cutting through the adhesive is unnecessary if it's not been opened before (outside of an apple store) there will be a tab at the end of each VHB strip that you can use to simply pull the vhb strips off.

    Rory McKenna - Ответить

    YES, exactly the same here. more but more simple.

    Lucio Alves -

    To save a few steps and a bit of time, if you have a helper, they can hold the display at a 90° angle while you unscrew the brackets and remove/replace the hard drive rather than remove the display entirely. Also reduces the likelihood of damaging the display as you remove and handle it.

    marty - Ответить

    The proper way to remove the display according to the Macintosh tech manual and videos is as Rory McKenna and Lucio Alves have learned is to pull the tab at the end of each VHB strip until it is off.

    Ben Varela - Ответить

    This worked great! look for small left over adhesive on either edge of the bottom of the screen and pull each one towards the center. Screen assembly removes after that with no fuss.

    Miguel Rivas -

  22. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

    • During reassembly, head over to our display adhesive guide to install the new adhesive.

  23. Remove the following five Phillips  screws holding the lower support bracket in place: Four 3.2 mm screws
    • Remove the following five Phillips screws holding the lower support bracket in place:

    • Four 3.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • On at least some EMC 2544 machines, all five screws are the same size.

    • You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.

    I used the CR-V 4.0 standard screwdriver head to help peel away the adhesive lining. My fingers were too big to grab it, and my fingernails too short to get the removal started. This 4 screw head worked perfectly.

    airshack - Ответить

  24. Remove the lower support bracket from the iMac enclosure.
    • Remove the lower support bracket from the iMac enclosure.

    Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.

    John M - Ответить

    I left mine out. LOL

    jerrid_foiles -

    Line up the screw holes and press on the bracket from the back to help the screws grab. If your fingers are too big, press with the flat side of your spudger. As long as there’s no gap between the bracket and the iMac’s frame, the screws should grab easily.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I put it in at a slight angle lining up the right hand side holes, screwed in the two screws and gently pressed my finger behind it on the rest

    jmorphett5 - Ответить

  25. Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to walk it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, as they can be easily broken off.
    • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to walk it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, as they can be easily broken off.

    • Pull the connector downwards to remove it from its socket.

  26. Remove the two 10.0 mm T10 screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the two 10.0 mm T10 screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.

  27. Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable that is routed into the speaker's right side. Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable that is routed into the speaker's right side.

    • Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.

  28. Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward. The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward.
    • Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    • The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward.

  29. Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:
    • Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.

    • One 9 mm T10 Torx screw.

    • One 27 mm T10 Torx screw.

    Pay attention to this photo and where the fan is. It is 180° from where the previous step shows it is oriented to you.

    Max Romano - Ответить

  30. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.
    • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

  31. The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply or any of the exposed solder. Touching it risks a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
    • The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply or any of the exposed solder. Touching it risks a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.

    I would advise that before removing the PSU unit and all other components from the bottom of the case that you remove the 5 screws at the bottom of the display which hold an insulation strip in place.

    The guide shows this piece removed, but does not tell you how to remove it.

    There will be 5, small J1000 screws. The middle one, which goes over Apple Logo is the shorter one of the 5, all others are the same length. Once this piece is gone removing the components is much easier, and chance of damage lessened.

    [deleted] - Ответить

    Added to the guide. Thanks for the tip!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    No need to remove power board and logic board and all other components, just remove the fan and it is quite "easily" accessable to change the RAM. Just need to use the tools to remove the old RAM and carefully install the new RAM.

    I just did it without removing the logic or power board

    Oleksandr Trokhymchuk - Ответить

    could you elaborate a little more, I would love to skip the rest of these steps. How did you accomplish this?

    ej P -

    ej P: remove the fan assembly first. Then remove the connector that runs from the iSight camera to the logic board on the left.

    the RAM is located right near that cable. It’s tricky to remove but you can pop open the connectors with a black nylon stick and the RAM chip will pop up at 45 degrees. Make a mental note on which way you will need to install the new ram as it’s tough to see. For the Crucial memory I got it was label side facing away you (facing towards rear metal enclosure).

    the second chip has a plastic adhesive piece on it that you should probably attach to the new ram.

    remove both chips then install the new ram in sequence from the board out.

    Wizdom On Wheels - Ответить

    In the photo for Step 28, the power button cable connector is placed around the power board screw hole on the top left of the power board.

    However, on the iMac I upgraded, the power button cable connector was “fed” through the power power screw hole on the top left of the power board. The cable was too short to run around and below the hole.

    Hence, I had to ensure the cable was “fed” through the hole during re-assembly and the screw carefully screwed back through the hole.

    I guess every iMac is assembly just a bit differently, just to make repairs that much more fun.

    telcik - Ответить

    Just replaced the hard drive and RAM with SSD and 16GB respectively and did NOT remove the power supply or logic board. Tricky is a word to describe putting the RAM in without removing the logic board. You work in the dark with little room to get your fingers in between the logic board and the back of the case. I put the first RAM chip in without a problem (the one next to the logic board), but the second to four tries and dropped it behind the logic board three times before finally getting it to position correctly. Just impossible to see and must work but feel. Still it was faster than removing all the components… though did remove the fan (needed cleaning anyway). All in all I can’t say enough about the help the guide was through the upgrade ! Thanks !

    Ray Burgard - Ответить

    I found this connector to be very tight and was afraid of breaking it off. I just kept slowly working on it—it did eventually come out.

    I did try to sneak the RAM in without removing the logic board but my fingers were too big. I found it too difficult and just continued on with this guide.

    Mikkif - Ответить

    I was not able to install the memory without removing all the components. My fingers are too big and I could barely get in that tight spot to swap out the memory. The hardest part about the power supply is that one connector under the chin next to the Apple logo. Once it is out, you are home free because it is so easy to plug it back in when you are putting it all back together again. Ridiculous that Apple did not put a simple access door behind those memory slots because they are on the backside of the Mac! They did an access door on the PowerBooks and it did not ruin the appearance. They could have designed a cool looking pop out door that only had a thin seam around it so it would still look good. Then you could remove the access door to upgrade the memory easily.

    Peter Hillman - Ответить

    Does anyone know if this is the same situation as in the 2017 model? I just changed RAM in the 2017 version and also skipped taking out the logic board. I just bent a pair of tweezers and put some tape around the tips to make them less scratchy and used them to place the RAM modules into the slots. Worked supereasy and much much quicker than performing the complete tear down of the whole machine.

    Nils Witte - Ответить

    This step is impossible!

    Cecily Walker - Ответить

    @wizdomonwheels, I don’t see how I can get the RAM shield off of the logic board to access the RAM without removing the logic board. What am I missing?? I’m guessing that those of you that are suggesting this technique are working on older iMac models that don’t have the RAM shield.

    jiclark - Ответить

    Yes, you are correct. It is likely the various steps are a bit different on each model. If I recall I was likely working on a 2015 or older system. If there’s a shield in the way, I can’t think of a way you could get around it without pulling the logic board.

    Wizdom On Wheels -

  32. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.

  33. Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.

    • In newer model iMacs these are 7.2 mm T8 Torx screws.

    • During reassembly, be careful not to trap the power button wire behind the board.

    In my case, the left side corner of the PS was caught against the Lower Support Bracket, and I had to remove the LSB in order to get the PS freed and out.

    I think the author Walter Galan should put this in the main section of his instructions. I have TWO identical iMac 14,1 / i5 2.7GHz / 21 Inch Late 2013 / Order ME086LL/A. They both required removing the LSB. Thank you very much Walter Galan & others for your contributions.

    Ted Horodynsky - Ответить

    Those screws were definitely not T10 but T9 on my unit

    Vincent Monteil - Ответить

    Those screws were T8 on my unit.

    jag32mobile - Ответить

  34. When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Tilt the power supply forward.
    • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Tilt the power supply forward.

    When replacing the PSU (on the re-build) take care not to trap the power button cable behind it - I did...

    Dave Hallett - Ответить

  35. Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure. Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left. Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.
    • Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure.

    • Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.

    In my case, the left side corner of the PS was caught against the Lower Support Bracket, and I had to remove the LSB in order to get the PS freed and out.

    I think the author Walter Galan should put this in the main section of his instructions. I have TWO identical iMac 14,1 / i5 2.7GHz / 21 Inch Late 2013 / Order ME086LL/A. They both required removing the LSB. Thank you very much Walter Galan & others for your contributions.

    Ted Horodynsky - Ответить

  36. Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure. Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.
    • Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.

  37. Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure. Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board. Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.
    • Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure.

    • Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.

  38. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Flip the power supply over to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Flip the power supply over to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board.

    • Squeeze the tab on the back side of the DC power cable connector and pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

    when pulled the cable, even slightly, the actual female piece that connects to the logic board came off. am i screwed?

    Racheal Major - Ответить

    Repairing sockets that come off the logic board is possible, but very specialised work. Unless you have a magnifying lamp and the necessary desoldering and soldering skills, it will be difficult but not impossible.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Ответить

    The tab is at the far end of the connector, so you’ll need to reach farther than you might think.

    lkollar - Ответить

    When I pulled the disconnect, I pushed down on the disconnect, instead of pushing down on the tab on the disconnect and bent those pins… tried to straighten the bent pins and two of the pins broke off the logic board. Will I need a new logic board or can I purchase the pins…?

    Ray AA - Ответить

  39. You may find it helpful to set the iMac down on its back for the next couple of steps. Use the flat end of a spudger to press the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward. While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.
    • You may find it helpful to set the iMac down on its back for the next couple of steps.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward.

    • While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.

    I didn't disconnect the input cable to the power supply. Because I had the machine lying on its back throughout, I placed it on to the metal bit at the bottom of the machine instead (with a cloth to stop the metal getting scratched). The AC inlet cable was pretty tricky to get un-locked, and the PSU sat on the case fine. It didn't hinder anything else throughout the guide.

    Dave Hallett - Ответить

    I thought from Dave’s comment that I could leave the power supply completely in place, but I was mistaken. In order to remove the hard drive assembly after you remove the center screw in it, you’ll need to at least unscrew it and the HD assembly will slip out. Like Dave said, you don’t need to unplug the AC or PSU, which I left hanging.

    Getting power supply to the logic board unplugged is also tricky without unscrewing the two bottom screws. They didn’t make this part easy.

    delacrj2 - Ответить

    Kleiner Rechtschreibfehler - statt „denac“ muss es wohl „den iMac“ heißen

    Gonzalo - Ответить

    Au ja. Du kannst so was selbst ausbessern. Einfach auf “Übersetzen" gehen und loslegen.

    VauWeh - Ответить

    I would like to thanks Dave Hallett for his tip of not removing the AC inlet connector of the power supply. I simply wrapped the board in bubble wrap and taped to the iMac case, out of the way, thus giving access to the remaining disconnection procedures and preventing the board from scratching to the iMac case. It also made reassembly much simpler.

    Rob Hogan - Ответить

    Yeah, that AC inlet plug was a nasty one to unplug, mainly because I was trying not to bump the solder joints on the PSU. After a few wiggles and pulls while manipulating the spudger tool to release the clip, it finally unplugged. Made it easier by removing the PSU completely so you don’t have to worry about it. Don’t worry, plugging it back in is a breeze!

    Peter Hillman - Ответить

    With the right tool this plug comes out very easily. Forget about your tiny computer tools, go to the garage and grab a regular old needle nose pliers. Grab the clip and the plug at the same time. The plug will come right out.

    Carin Ann Loewen - Ответить

    Carin Ann— The most helpful comment on this procedure. After reading what you wrote I maneuvered the board, grabbed the clip with my left hand (a little awkward because of the cooling enclosure), squeezed the front of the plug, and got it out.

    Glen Kohler - Ответить

  40. Remove the power supply from the iMac.
    • Remove the power supply from the iMac.

    erreur: retirer "la carte d'alimentation" et non" le disque dur" !!!!!

    Moreau - Ответить

  41. Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board. Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

  42. Remove the three 12.3 mm T10 shoulder screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the three 12.3 mm T10 shoulder screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.

  43. Remove the fan from the iMac. Remove the fan from the iMac.
    • Remove the fan from the iMac.

  44. Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.
    • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

    • The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.

  45. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive.

    When reconnecting the SATA cable, there is nothing to make the connector hold still, and it is hard to reach, so it took several tries. I ended up taking off the rubber baby buggy bumpers to get more room, and then jamming them back on after getting the SATA connector snugged up.

    bstaud - Ответить

    If by rubber baby buggy bumper, you mean left speaker, then yes, I agree. Reinstall the hard drive before the left speaker.

    jerrid_foiles -

    Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!

    jiclark - Ответить

    We solved this by removing the hard drive tray screw, then inserting the cable into the SATA hard drive. Then hold the hard drive a bit out of the way to insert the 7.3mm hard drive tray screw.

    Marjie - Ответить

    Agree with this method, found it an impossible task to reconnect the SATA connector until removed the tray screw, then it was relatively easy to reconnect and then replace the tray screw.

    daveedwards -

    Also agree with this method!

    jmorphett5 -

  46. Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.
    • Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.

    When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.

    Cool_Breeze - Ответить

    Thanks! I, too, had a hard time reconnecting the SATA cable.

    boboswell -

    I found this helpful too!

    Anwar -

    And DON’T do what I did, which is to remove the left speaker - which can easily lead to breaking the cable between the power on button and the power supply. The cable is routed through a hidden slot at the very bottom of the left speaker

    bsmith1 - Ответить

    I did loosen the speaker so I could get a tool behind the SATA cable to push it on to the SSD drive. Otherwise hard to align cable.

    Noah Ralston - Ответить

    I found the easiest way to connect the SATA cable was to not screw the plastic hard drive tray down until you plug the drive in. That way you can easily push the connector in and due to the cable you’ve got some wiggle room. You can position the tray then just lift one end of the drive up and secure the screw. Then just push the drive down.

    Chris Caldwell - Ответить

    This was the step that I had the most trouble with. I’m used to replacing a hard drive in a MacBook Pro, where the “plug” that you plug the drive into is a rigid thing that you can firmly press the hard drive into.

    With the iMac, the plug is situated on the end of a non-rigid cord, so the plug moves back when you try to snap a drive into it. Also, those two rubber gasket things that you adhere to the side of the drive really make it difficult to maneuver the now-overly-chubby drive towards the plug.

    After must frustration/concern, what I ended up doing was temporarily removing the rubber gasket things, using the “spudger” as kind of a lever behind the “plug on a cord” so that it didn’t move as much, and then pushed the gasket-less SSD into the plug.

    Once I got it connected, I put the rubber gaskets back on the sides of the SSD and kind of coaxed it down into place, using the pointy end of the spudger to get the chubby corner pieces to “sit” correctly in the rigid plastic tray that the SSD kind of rests in.

    Jack OnFlickr - Ответить

    From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!

    jiclark - Ответить

  47. Remove the single 7.2 mm T10 screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the single 7.2 mm T10 screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.

  48. Remove the hard drive tray from the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the hard drive tray from the rear enclosure.

    You will have to reroute the sata cable beneath too. The drive tray will not simply lift out.

    biscuit - Ответить

  49. Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently walk it out of its socket. Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently walk it out of its socket.
    • Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently walk it out of its socket.

    A step is entirely missing here – removing the right speaker cable connection from the logic board and also removing the right speaker casing (all the pictures below show it already having been removed). You actually don't need to entirely remove the right speaker to get the logic board out but you will need to remove its screws and lift it slightly. And you will need to remove its plug from the motherboard but that's not hard and it looks identical to the left speaker plug/socket.

    biscuit - Ответить

    This does need adding to the guide if anyone from ifixit sees this!

    Alan Digby -

  50. If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to gently peel the tape securing the left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. This tape only needs to be removed if you are removing the left speaker.
    • If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to gently peel the tape securing the left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable.

    • This tape only needs to be removed if you are removing the left speaker.

    Actually i didn't get why should i unstick the tape which gum up left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. It's gonna be hard to bond the tape again cause it looses the clue ability. I can definetely claim that there is no need to touch the tape.

    dv1977 - Ответить

    I too can say that there was no reason to remove the tape.

    [deleted] -

    Agreed. I completed the repair without removing the tape.

    phil -

  51. De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure. In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip. In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip.
    • De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure.

    • In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip.

  52. Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable connector. Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not use excessive force. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable connector.

    • Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not use excessive force. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.

  53. Use the flat edge of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.

    Be careful and tender here, otherwise you risk that the connectors brake

    Andreas - Ответить

    Agreed, super easy to bend these and break them.

    jctracey - Ответить

    i found it helpful to use the flat end of the spudger under the cable near the connector and gently wiggle the spudger until the cable was disconnected.

    telcik - Ответить

    Agreed, I broke one connector. The airport seems to work anyway. But what to do to fix it? Change the airport card or try to weld it again?

    Paolo Galante - Ответить

    I mark each cable tip with a different colored sharpie and then take a Pic. This gives me the order and the angle of orientation in order to reconnect these pesky connectors.

    lamajr - Ответить

  54. Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board. Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board.
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board.

    The photo in Step 51 shows the right speaker missing, however there is no step prior for removing the right speaker.

    Hence, refer to this other guide to remove the right speaker *before* Step 51.

    iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638 Right Speaker Replacement

    telcik - Ответить

    Its there! Step 28 & 29 is the removal, the left one doesn’t need to be removed.

    Dan -

  55. Remove the following screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:
    • Remove the following screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 6.3 mm T8 screws

    • Two 4.7 mm T8 screws

    I have the Manta 64 bit kit and the driver that comes with that kit is too short/fat to reach that right 4.7mm T8 screw. I cant fit it past the logic board. i’ll have to find a T8 with a longer shaft or a skinny extension bit

    Nick - Ответить

    edit: nvm I didn’t see the smaller TR8 bit but I’m good now!

    Nick - Ответить

    A T9 bit fits and grips the screws tight enough to make it easier to work with the deep 4.7mm screw.

    johann beda - Ответить

  56. Remove the four 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the four 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.

    So a major problem for me here — my iMac (purchased 2018 ) has a solid circular fastener where the lower left T10 screw should be. So I think I’m dead in the water as far as getting the logic board off to put the new RAM in. I can’t see how people can insert the ram from behind without seeing it or being able to get two fingers to the tabs. I’m so frustrated with the design of this computer.

    jctracey - Ответить

    That’s a new one on us! We’d love to see a photo. Any chance it’s a tamper-proof sticker hiding the head? You may also be able to turn it with a set of pliers if you can get a decent grip, just be careful not to bump any board components!

    Sam Goldheart - Ответить

    It’s a tamper proof sticker. I started to peel it up, but it was just easier to press the screwdriver bit in.

    as an update, these are now T8 screws

    cwaldrip -

  57. Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.
    • Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure.

    • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac.

    • Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.

    • The I/O boards at the bottom of the logic board will be the greatest challenge. It is recommended to pull gently to avoid any damage.

    If you have a helper (or if you're very coordinated and careful), you can very likely lift up the logic board far enough to replace both RAM modules without pulling the logic board all the way out. Just be careful what you touch, of course.

    phil - Ответить

    This is the trickiest part of the whole operation. It took me a solid half hour to get the logic board out. I’m sure it would be easier a second time, because there’s not many delicate components around the USB/Internet sockets, so you can be a little more assertive with it than I felt comfortable doing.

    David Thompson - Ответить

    i found the logic board kept snagging on the USB connectors poking through the exterior case. Wiggle the logic gently to extract..

    telcik - Ответить

    There are two connections underneath, where the HDD cables plug in. This should be pointed out; they pulled loose when I removed the logic board and I didn’t notice until I had most of it put back together.

    lkollar - Ответить

    Take out the two screws that hold down the right speaker, and push it up a little, before removing the logic board. It makes things a lot easier.

    Also: there’s a cable on the right side of the logic board that isn’t called out. Nor are the two HDD cables that plug into the underside of the logic board.

    lkollar - Ответить

  58. When installing the logic board, take care to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws. Use a USB flash drive and/or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.
    • When installing the logic board, take care to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

    • Use a USB flash drive and/or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

  59. Remove the single Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    My wife’s iMac Late 2013 21.5” did not originally have a blade SSD installed, so there was no existing Torx T8 screw available to use on the Aura 6G I was installing. Had to use one of the 4 T8 screws from the Exhaust Duct to get the job done.

    Philip Meadows - Ответить

  60. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

40 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Комментариев: 34

This question never been asked: what's the diameter and a length of this screw holding the PSIe SSD on motherboard? Is it there if there no SSD in the config?

dv1977 - Ответить

There is no screw in the motherboard if it did not come configured with a fusion drive.

bonnermikec -

Hi!

We still have no answer: what's the diameter and a length of this screw holding the PSIe SSD on motherboard?

Egor - Ответить

hi, i have a imac 21.5" bought mid 2010 and now all of a sudden it froze up and tried to restored it but it won't go through the installations of OS(I already deleted everything from disk utility) my screen is white with light blue stripe. I ran disk/hard drive repair and said its was okay. Do you think it's probably the video card was broken? I'ts weird as I am using it right now the safari even wothout an OS(just browsing) but that was it. Now my question is how do i know if the problem is the video card? or anything else probably?

Rolly - Ответить

Hello , I have this model iMac 14,1. I bought the factory with hdd 1TB but without ssd . can I install a ssd and what model?

kyli17 - Ответить

Hi,

I’d like to do the same… did you upgrade your iMac? could you confirm that there is a SSD connector?

Ruggero -

I have replaced 1 21.5 originally w/o a ssd with a 2015 MacBook ssd. It was a base model i5 2.7.

im about to upgrade a i7. No ssd originally. I’m pretty sure results will be the same.

Farmerjohn832 -

HDD only systems won’t have the needed parts on the logic board to support the blade SSD. Only Fusion Drive’d and SSD models have the blade connector.

Dan -

Wrong, Dan. I just finished upgrading my parent’s late 2013 21.5” that most decidedly did NOT come with a Fusion drive and indeed the connector was right there on the back of the logic board where it should be. As to the original poster’s question: I used a SanDisk SD6PQ4M-256G-1021 I got off eBay for 60 bucks including shipping. Running OSX and Applications off that and replaced glacially slow HDD with a midrange 512GB SSD for media storage like photos, music and videos. Also bumped RAM up to 16GB and did a fresh install of latest Catalina build. Thing boots just as fast as my 2018 MBP now should be good enough for my folks for another 6 years. The only thing lacking is the non-UHD display, but my folks are in their 70’s and don’t care about that. Total investment including adhesive strips and opener tool: about 200 bucks. My folks were ready to plunk down another 1200 bucks for a new model. Sorry, Apple. THANK YOU, iFixit!

johnnycashak -

Hi

Is it posible to installe a Samsung 850 pro 512gb sad into an iMac 2013 (late) EMC:2638

or will it cause problems, with there thermal sensor?

Brian Krogh Hansen - Ответить

They make an inline cable adapter with a thermal sensor to attach to the outside

Dan -

External thermal sensor for an ssd upgrade is not needed for this model. Only for the mid 2012 models and earlier, so you'll be fine

MorbidMylar -

My 2013 21.5" iMac has a 1TB standard hard drive. I am going to increase the memory soon from 8 to 16 and want to see about installing an the SSD to go along with the 1TB. Do I have the ports on the board to be able to install this?

Thanks

Richard Gullotto - Ответить

Hi,

I’d like to do the same… did you upgrade your iMac? could you confirm that there is a SSD connector? thanks!

Ruggero -

Yes you do. I just finished this exact upgrade and it was very easy. The only hitch was finding a screw to secure the SSD blade to the logic board as none was included (obviously) I ended up pulling a housing screw from the HDD I replaced with a 2.5” Samsung SSD, which was the perfect diameter but screw head itself was a little small for a snug fit so I added a washer just to be sure.

johnnycashak -

Can somebody confirm if there is a SSD connector exist in this model of imac if is bought without SSD?

I want to buy and upgrade SSD, but i don't want open my mac first and than wait till my ordered SSD come to me.

I found that connector exist but i need someone to confirm.

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/im...

*This model has a Serial ATA (6 Gb/s) connector for a 2.5" hard drive as well as a proprietary PCIe connector for an SSD. As reported by site sponsor OWC, if the SSD is not installed at the time of purchase, the connector still is present and later professional or self-installation is possible.

Thanks in advance

Sebastijan Sakac - Ответить

Hi,

did you upgrade your iMac? could you confirm that there is a SSD connector?

Ruggero -

I can confirm all models in this line include the connector, as the one I upgraded was the very base model and it was indeed right there on the back of the logic board. A screw to secure the SSD blade was not included, however, so you will need to source your own if you want to protect it from becoming dislodged if you ever bump or move your iMac around.

johnnycashak -

Hello! The Samsung 960 EVO Series works? someone to help me!? thanks

Rafael - Ответить

No, the Samsung 960 SSD is a M.2 drive. Apple uses a custom blade drive which is physically different.

Dan -

You are correct Dan, but there are now adapters you can purchase as a workaround for this issue. I almost went this route before deciding on a used MBP SSD instead out of cost considerations. A simple google search will give you a list of prices and configurations.

johnnycashak -

all great info. i have a 1tb version. i think i am going to just replace it with a 850 evo for now. but it would be cool to add a pcie ssd for the OS and keep the 1tb for storage. too bad there is no step by step guide to do this. even if there was, it looks like there are just a few too many steps to make it a reasonable upgrade…. typing this out, makes me think just replacing the 1tb with a 2.5 ssd is most practical.

carlosriosness - Ответить

great explanation ! I have iMac 21.5” late 2013 (EMC 2638 - Model A1418) and I want upgrade with SSD using the slot PCIe and delete the mechanical original hard disk Seagate of 1 TB

I noted that the slot PCIe is not M.2 ? is it correct ?

So we need buy an adaptor in order to install a Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2. Is it correct ?

Which is the correct adaptor ? Is it available on your website ?

Otherwise the PCIe port available on motherboard working with a transfer rate of 3 GB/sec or 6 GB/sec

Last question: the hard drive original using a SATA2 tranfer rate or SATA3 transfer rate

Many thanks in advance

Gian from Italy

pescamodasport - Ответить

I used a Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter from Amazon. If you use 970 EVO Plus you have to do a firmware update on the SSD. I used the 970 EVO which does not required firmware update to work. Look at Sintech instruction on Amazon product info.

ttl68_2000 -

Wo finde ich die Blade für den 2638 late 2013?

Hiltebrand - Ответить

Rezension The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs. Sie möchten ein Samsung SSPOLARIS mit der proprietären Apple PCIe 3.0 x4-Schnittstelle.

Review The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs. You want a Samsung SSPOLARIS which has the proprietary Apple PCIe 3.0 x4 interface.

Dan -

Hey guys, I bought this Samsung SSD 860 EVO MZ-76E500B/EU 500GB and want to replace it with the fusion drive.

I have read all the posts above, but could not find out, if I can take the other harddiscs (HDD &SSD) out and replace them with this model. And, do I need an adapter here? I appreciate your help!!

JeySign production - Ответить

Your system only has two I/O ports a SATA connection and a PCIe connection. A Fusion drive uses both ports the SATA with a HDD and the PCIe with a small SSD for a cache drive.

You’ll need to break the Fusion Drive set and just forget about the PCIe SSD. You’ll just remove the HDD and slide in your Samsung EVO SSD in its place following this guide iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638 Hard Drive Replacement

Dan -

hey, guys i just install and original apple PCIe SSD 256 GB on my iMac 21.5 late 2013 that drive was from my MacBook pro mid-2014

but doesn't work at full speed is only do 295 MB read and write but on my MacBook pro was 790 MB read and write someone can help to fix this issue

thanks

jaime benabe - Ответить

Sounds like you had a four lane SSD which is now in a two lane system!

Review this great guide! The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs to get a deeper understanding.

Dan -

Thank you for all the helpful answers!

I’ve got a Late 2013 21.5” iMac (2638 14,1) that I have already upgraded the HDD to a Samsung 850 EVO a couple of years ago.. it’s running like a top ever since. BUT, I need more space.. and after reading that this unit has the PCIe slot for an NVMe drive.. I think I’ll just open it up and add the NVMe drive since it’ll be faster than swapping out my current SSD.

Question: Would you run the Samsung 850 EVO SSD as the Boot or Data drive? Why?

The NVMe drives I’m looking at are:

Addlink 1TB SSD NVMe PCIe 3x4 M.2 2280 Internal Solid State Drive S70 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7LRB2T

OR

SK hynix Gold P31 PCIe NVMe Gen3 M.2 2280 Internal SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DKB5LWY

''Using the Adapter from Sintech https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-Compatibl...

Any suggestions before I open it up and make the upgrades?

Man, I really wish this had a faster PCIe slot.. like a 4x !!

Jesse Matlock - Ответить

First make sure yours has the connector! Only the systems sold as a SSD or Fusion Drive have the custom Apple SSD connector. It sounds like yours doesn’t have it.

As far as drives I really don’t recommend using M.2 SSD’s in Mac’s. I had wished Apple would had embraced the M.2 standard, they didn’t! While it is possible to install via an adapter an M.2 SSD Apple has a few extra lines which they use for sleep and garbage collection functions which is where the M.2 SSD’s fail. I’ve pulled out quite a few putting in either the Apple or OWC SSD’s as being the better solution from the start.

As far as which port drive would I use the PCIe/NVMe interface is a lot fosters such it would be better as the Boot drive (OS & Apps). This allows cache and virtual RAM to use the faster drive and lastly if you are using Windows Paging. Depending on the apps you are working with some use a scratch space which by default will be on the boot drive.

You do want a drive thats big enough to hold your OS & apps and still leave at least 1/4 of the drive unused! If you are doing big projects then more.

So the SATA drive is only used for holding the bulk data

Dan -

Thanks for the reply Dan.

If I’ve been reading correctly - All of the Late 2013 21.5” iMacs (2638) came with the PCIe port, regardless of configuration - as confirmed by several teardown videos and lots of research. Including the article you linked to above: https://beetstech.com/blog/apple-proprie... Is this incorrect?? Guess I can always open it up and find out the hard way LOL

OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD iFixIt also shows it is compatible

Anyway, it looks like going with a card made for the Apple pin type would be best.. and running the PCIe as the boot drive..

really appreciate the advice!

Jesse Matlock - Ответить

People often confuse the systems! The early 2013 don’t have the connector the late models do!

Dan -

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