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Введение
This guide is currently being revised with an updated procedure.
Follow this guide to remove and replace the battery for the iPad Pro 9.7”.
If your iPad is not the cellular enabled model, skip the first step.
Because there are steps in this guide where the battery may remain connected to the logic board, leave the iPad on until the battery is completely discharged (the iPad turns itself off) before attempting this guide.
Have plenty of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to help make residue cleanup easier.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then use your device until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Press firmly to eject the tray.
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Remove the SIM tray.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
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Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.
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As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
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Home Button
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Front Facing Camera
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Main Camera
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
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Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
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Position the suction cups near the top edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
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Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
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Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.
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Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
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Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.
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If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.
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Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.
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Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.
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Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.
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Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.
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Use picks to ensure most of the adhesive has been cut through on the top, left, and bottom sides.
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Twist the top and bottom picks to separate the display assembly from the rear case.
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Swing the display assembly towards the right of the case, using the right edge as a hinge.
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As you move the display assembly, make sure that the display ribbon cable is not being stressed.
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Continue swinging the display assembly until it lays flat next to the rear case.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eleven 1.3 mm screws securing the EMI shield.
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Lift the logic board EMI shield, starting at the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
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Slowly peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.
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Remove the logic board EMI shield.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.
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Squeeze the sharp protrusion with a pair of pliers to flatten it.
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Repeat the process for all sharp protrusions along the edges of the EMI shield.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the display assembly connector from the motherboard socket.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two antenna cables which connect the logic board to the lower antennas.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and loosen the adhesive holding the two disconnected antenna cables in place.
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Carefully route the cables out from between the battery and the logic board.
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Push the cables away from the battery.
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Use tweezers or a spudger to gently pull up the end of the black tape nearest the Smart Connector. It covers the mid-battery circuit board residing between the two battery cells.
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Remove the 1.7 mm Phillips screw holding the Smart Connector cable cover in place.
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Remove the Smart Connector cable cover.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector's connector from its socket between the battery cells.
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Push the Smart Connector flex cable up and out of the way.
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Apply a piece of masking or painter's tape to the top speaker assembly. The tape should bridge the gap between the battery and the speaker assembly.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the edge of the tape down into the crevice between the battery and the speaker.
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Slide the spudger across the entire length of the crevice, pushing tape down to create a boundary.
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Repeat the same procedure on the logic board side and the bottom side of the iPad.
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Once complete, the masking should look like the first image.
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Four strips of strong adhesive hold the battery in place.
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Prepare a work area where the iPad can rest in a tilted position, to allow adhesive remover to trickle down to the adhesive strips.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
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Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
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Carefully insert a plastic card under the bottom right corner of the battery.
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Slowly slide the plastic card across the bottom edge of the battery to make a gap for the liquid adhesive remover.
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Tilt the bottom of the iPad up.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the battery.
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Rest the iPad in a slanted position, bottom edge up, and wait 2-3 minutes to allow the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the first adhesive strip.
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Slide a plastic card into the bottom edge of the battery.
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Push slowly and firmly. Gently wiggle and twist the card to help it slice through the adhesive.
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You can also approach the adhesive strip with the plastic card from battery's other bottom corner.
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Continue slicing until you have separated the battery from the first adhesive strip.
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Tilt the bottom of the iPad up.
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Reapply adhesive remover into the gap for the second adhesive strip, located deeper underneath the bottom battery cell.
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Repeat the application, waiting, and slicing process until the second adhesive strip is separated from the battery.
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Slide an opening pick under the top edge of the battery, creating a gap large enough for a plastic card.
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Insert a plastic card under the top edge and slide it across the entire length, creating a gap for the adhesive remover.
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Rest the iPad in a slanted position, top edge up, for 2-3 minutes to allow the adhesive remover to weaken the third strip.
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Repeat the application, waiting, and slicing process to release the last adhesive strip located deeper underneath the top battery cell.
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Use the plastic card or your fingers to flip the bottom half of the battery over so that it rests on top of the upper half.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the mid-battery circuit board, near the Smart Connector.
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Carefully slice underneath the board around the post to release the board from the rear case.
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Place the Battery Blocker on top of the plastic card such that the top half of the Battery Blocker extends past the top of the card.
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Wrap tape around the plastic card so that the Battery Blocker is held in place.
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Slide the extended Battery Blocker under the battery where it contacts the logic board.
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Slowly lever the extended Battery Blocker upwards, pushing the battery contacts and the logic board up.
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Once the extended Battery Blocker has lifted the battery contacts high enough to clear the screw post, pull the battery out of its position.
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Remove the battery and the Battery Blocker.
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Thoroughly clean the back case of all adhesive residue.
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Apply adhesive remover or high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the residue.
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Use an opening tool to scrape and loosen the residue.
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Be sure to wipe the residue away in one direction to prevent smearing.
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You can remove the masking tape as well as any protective gear once you are done cleaning.
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Slowly insert the extended Battery Blocker under the logic board.
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Lever the tool so that the the Battery Blocker's prongs barely push the logic board above the screw post.
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Lay the replacement battery pack on top of the extended Battery Blocker.
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Allow the battery pack to slide in place underneath the logic board as the battery's contacts clear the screw post.
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Remove the Battery Blocker.
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Lift the bottom edge of the battery up slightly.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to peel the single clear plastic covering off of the entire bottom side of the battery.
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Align the battery such that it falls in place with the screw post near the Smart Connector.
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Gently lay the battery down into its recess.
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Press the battery firmly into place.
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Separate the Battery Blocker from the plastic card if it is still taped together.
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Reinsert the Battery Blocker between the logic board and the battery contacts.
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Resume reassembly.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPad Pro 9.7” Answers Community for troubleshooting help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPad Pro 9.7” Answers Community for troubleshooting help.
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14 Комментариев
That’s an excellent guide! I had to replace both the battery and the display. The iPad seems fixed and boots but shuts down after 3min/180s due to "no successful checkins from com.apple.thermalmonitord since wake". The other services listed in the dump all report successful checkins. I have no idea whether that rather indicates something went wrong with the battery replacement or with the display exchange (and associated home button transfer). A hard DFU didn’t help.
Did you ever get this fixed? I’m running into the same thing.
Hello, I tap the home button, Apple is very picky about the exchange. Just try the original home button if it is still available.
Used this guide it is missing the part where you need to remove the screw from the battery post. Post needs to be reissued. I have now tried 3 OEM batteries including reinstalling the existing one and all cause the iPad to go into a restart loop I think iOS 14 devices are firmware locked as all show 100mAh on Coconut Plus which probably causes the restart loops. Even completed hard reset and total factory reset however still stuck in restart loop
Did you manage to fix this? I got the same result.