Введение
Use this guide to replace your iPad's battery.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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There are 14 metal clips holding the display assembly in place, shown at left. As you pry in the following steps, do your best to pry around these clips and not slice through them with your opening tool.
A clearer explanation of the orientation is needed here. The bar code is at the top left of the iPad when you are looking at the screen.
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Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
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Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
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Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
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With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
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The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
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Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Its seems easier to undo the clips on the left and bottom by levering them with an iPad tool and pusing the clips in from the edge with another tool when i can visually see them. One the right side, bottom and most of the left side is done there isnt much need to do the top as it will slide off if moved about a centimeter
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Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
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In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
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Digitizer
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Ambient Light Sensor
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Display Data Cable
It would be easier to detach the Display Data Cable at its connector on the far right in the picture, since there doesnt seem to be much play to undo the suggested one.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
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Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Adding this comment in its proper place:
After flipping up the metal retainer, pull it sideways.
Do not pull it up vertically.
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Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
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Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
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Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
IMHO, unhooking data display cable from the other end is preferable to the above location, since the cable itself is sealed or taped onto the assembly.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to:
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Pry the side button connector up off the logic board from underneath the wires.
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Pry the speaker connector up off its socket on the logic board from beneath the speaker wires.
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Carefully flip up the ZIF ribbon cable retaining flap on the socket near the headphone jack.
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Pull the headphone jack ribbon cable toward the left side of the iPad to disconnect it from its socket.
Just skip removing the “side button connector” as you may instead sever the small solder connections to the socket. It’s not a necessary step and is more dangerous than anything.
I wish I had understood your post a little better, the socket popped off of the logic board for me. Is there any way to reconnect it or did I just waste my money trying to fix my own device? Thanks for any suggestions, listen to Max, good advice, there’s no reason to remove that connection and it just puts you in danger of doing what i did. Good luck to all.
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Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear panel assembly.
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Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws.
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Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws.
确定是T5吗，为什么在这个拆解里是写T4，我都糊涂了
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock cable connector straight up off the logic board.
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Lift the logic board out of the rear panel assembly.
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Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the speaker assembly to the rear panel assembly.
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Remove the single T5 Torx screw securing the middle of the dock cable to the rear panel assembly.
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Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear case.
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Using a plastic opening tool, carefully remove the plastic cover shielding the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable.
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Carefully pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up from their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
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De-route the speaker cable from the left side of the battery case.
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De-route the Wi-Fi antenna through its channel in the speaker assembly.
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Lift the speaker assembly and push it forward until the ports clear the bottom side of the lower case.
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Remove the speaker assembly from the rear panel assembly.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery up from the the lower case.
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Gently continue to enlarge the gap by wiggling the spudger and running it along the right side of the battery.
No joke with the “excessive amount of adhesive” you may cut yourself or bend your metal sponger like I did. This part alone took me about 25 min, just the removal from the back panel.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery and continue to separate the adhesive.
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When there is enough clearance, use your hands to peel the battery off any adhesive still securing it to the rear panel.
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Remove the battery from the rear panel.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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114 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.
14 Комментариев
Tried this with 2 ebay "OEM" cheapo batteries. Both failed- wouldn't charge, reboot every few minutes.
Solution: Dissected both new and original batteries. Snipped out old LI-ION cells from original Apple battery pack frame. Soldered new LI-ON cells into original battery frame.
Success!
The battery pack includes both LI-ION cells and an small circuit board. The cheapo replacement battery packs don't work (with newer IOS versions? are they actively blocking 3rd party battery replacements?)
Using the circuit board from the original battery pack with new LI-ION cells seems to fix everything.
Be ready to peel off a lot of adhesive label stickers and maybe use a bit of electrical tape to produce a renovated battery pack that works- original Apple battery frame + new LI-ION cells..
Thanks for letting us know that battery PCB takes LiIon cells replacement. I have the same problem with reboot using cheap ebay replacement battery. Going to test new LiIon cells for capacity and if OK - will resolder them.
Paul G -
PS: just replaced two cells, it works. Just in case, to prevent the charging PCB to loose the power (some LiIon controllers can lock because of power loss) I did it one by one. First I removed one cell, soldered replacement, then second one. I estimated capacity of new cells using Imax B6 charger - both of them were around 3100mah, not bad for noname $12 battery from ebay.
Paul G -
I am new to this. Does the iPad need to be kept powered up by an external battery while changing out the battery pack to prevent loss of apps and data? I don't mind so much losing data, it is backed to cloud. But apps are a problem as many of mine are no longer available.
No, iProduct storage doesn't depend on the battery.
jasonq -
I've performed the steps and it worked with Kastar replacement part, just to note that to open it first I've used the side were the volume button is located and slided through the botton were the front button is located.
Also is almost impossible to open it without broke some clips, I've bought some spares (10 pieces) that come handy because 6 were broken during the procedure.
What kind of replacement adhesive would I need to secure the new battery? Or is it okay without any new adhesive?
The iPad gen 1 battery I replaced did not need any extra adhesive. It stuck to the old large mess without issue.
Post battery replacement. Looks like it worked but the screen would not light up. I assumed the back light was damaged from the water damage (was dropped in a full bath tub) so I replaced the screen and now it will not charge. Should I assume it’s a cable or the logic board?
this is purely entertainment and not for work.
tres bien moi jaurais preferer un film sur youtub
1) Are you recommending to cover the display with clear packing tape even if it is intact (not cracked)?
2) If so,will the tape take the display’s oleophobic coating with it when removed?
Mitch Stary - Ответить
Hola necesito comprar
Alsone Michel - Ответить
Hola, ¿no estoy seguro si te refieres a las gafas de protección o a la pantalla? Te dejo los dos enlaces aquí:
iPad LCD Panel
Safety Glasses
Sandra Hiller -