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Введение

Follow the steps in this guide to replace your iPad mini 4 display assembly, including the fused LCD and digitizer glass.

This procedure involves removing the screen then transferring the home button to your new assembly. In order to maintain Touch ID functionality you must transfer your original home button to the new screen.

Depending on your replacement part, you may also need to transfer the sleep/wake sensor for Smart Cover use, this portion of the procedure requires desoldering a cable.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Ответить

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Ответить

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Ответить

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Ответить

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Ответить

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Ответить

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Ответить

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Ответить

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Ответить

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Ответить

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Ответить

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Ответить

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Ответить

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Ответить

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Ответить

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Ответить

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Ответить

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Ответить

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Ответить

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Ответить

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Ответить

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Ответить

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Ответить

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Ответить

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Ответить

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Ответить

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Ответить

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Ответить

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Ответить

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Ответить

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Ответить

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Ответить

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Ответить

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Ответить

  4. Handling it by the tabs on either side, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
    • Handling it by the tabs on either side, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  5. Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from from the rear case.
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

  6. While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    “Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

    Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

    The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

    Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

    lucanos - Ответить

    Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.

    ian cheong - Ответить

    This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...

    Alec - Ответить

  7. Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

  8. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

  9. Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  10. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  11. Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  12. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  13. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

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  15. Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  16. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

  17. Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  18. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  19. Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary. Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary. Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.

  20. Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  21. Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.
    • Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.

    • Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.

  22. Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button. Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.
    • Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.

  23. Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one. Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.
    • Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.

  24. Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad. Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.
    • Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.

  25. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.
    • Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.

  26. Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.
    • Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.

    • Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.

  27. To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.
    • To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.

    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.

    What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.

    Fixrights - Ответить

  28. Remove the battery/display cable bracket.
    • Remove the battery/display cable bracket.

    Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

    lucanos - Ответить

    Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?

    Thomas Langford - Ответить

  29. When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board. Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board.

    • Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector ribbon cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact and powering on the iPad.

  30. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.

  31. Remove the display assembly.
    • Remove the display assembly.

  32. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket.
    • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket.

  33. Use tweezers to unplug the home button ribbon cable from the ZIF socket. Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield. Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield.
    • Use tweezers to unplug the home button ribbon cable from the ZIF socket.

    • Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield.

  34. Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly. Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly.
    • Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly.

  35. Use an opening pick to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly. If you use metal tools to separate this cable, you may scratch the iPad glass, removing some paint.
    • Use an opening pick to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.

    • If you use metal tools to separate this cable, you may scratch the iPad glass, removing some paint.

  36. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly. When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it. When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly.

    • When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it.

  37. Heat an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the front panel to soften the adhesive holding the home button in place.
    • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the front panel to soften the adhesive holding the home button in place.

  38. The home button is held in place by a thin, delicate, rubber gasket that is mildly adhered to the front panel. Slowly push the home button up and out of the display assembly to separate the gasket from the front panel.
    • The home button is held in place by a thin, delicate, rubber gasket that is mildly adhered to the front panel.

    • Slowly push the home button up and out of the display assembly to separate the gasket from the front panel.

    • Be careful to not push the gasket past its tearing point. If the adhesive is adequately heated, it will separate from the front panel with some gentle pressure.

  39. Remove the home button assembly.
    • Remove the home button assembly.

  40. Examine your replacement part, and your original display carefully to be sure they match. Your replacement screen may be missing the sleep/wake sensor that is necessary for Smart Cover use. If you want to maintain functionality you will need to transfer the component. Desolder the six solder pads from the lower left of the display to remove the sensor assembly cable.
    • Examine your replacement part, and your original display carefully to be sure they match.

    • Your replacement screen may be missing the sleep/wake sensor that is necessary for Smart Cover use. If you want to maintain functionality you will need to transfer the component.

    • Desolder the six solder pads from the lower left of the display to remove the sensor assembly cable.

    This is an important step that’s missed by a lot of people resulting in negative reviews on replacement screens. Screen suppliers never mention this step or people would not buy from them. Save yourself a headache and time and buy a screen-digitizer with the sleep/wake sensor already soldered.

    Thomas Tommy - Ответить

    Is there any reason to replace this if you won’t use it? If I don’t move over the old sensor, will it still work? I’ve never soldered something this small and expensive before.

    drumminherbie - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Комментариев: 3

Not only is that part in step 39 crucial to Smart-Cover function, but the regular sleep/wake function will not work if this isn’t transferred. Wish the replacements were shipped with this part attached, because soldering those tiny points is near impossible to do! Buyer/repairer beware.

Griffin Dampier - Ответить

Its better to have reassemble instruction, like where i am going to put the new adhesive?

Richard Genato - Ответить

The iFixIt replacement part did not come with adhesive, so I had to reuse the old adhesive that got pulled and torn during removal of the bad screen.

Also, the iFixIt replacement part does not come with the sleep/wake sensor (Step 39). Following my repair, the iPad is no longer capable of going to sleep (neither by the button on top nor through AssistiveTouch), so we have to resort to waiting for the lock screen timer to turn the screen off whenever we’re done using it. I feel the soldering that is required to maintain this functionality (I would imagine it would need a millimeter-diameter drop of solder on six contacts that are then pressed together with the transplanted part to form the bond without solder spilling onto a neighboring contact) is not within the capability of most casual repairers.

If I were to do this repair again, I would find a part that has fresh adhesive and the sleep/wake sensor already attached.

sonnyjohl - Ответить

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