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iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement

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  1. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: шаг 1, изображение 1 из 1
    • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.6 mm P2 Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - Ответить

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - Ответить

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - Ответить

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - Ответить

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich - Ответить

    Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:

    * stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.

    * if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.

    Friendly Advice -

  2. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: шаг 2, изображение 1 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: шаг 2, изображение 2 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: шаг 2, изображение 3 из 3
    Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
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    • The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

  3. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 3, изображение 1 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 3, изображение 2 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 3, изображение 3 из 3
    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

    • Insert an opening pick or tool under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait a few seconds between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next three steps.

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - Ответить

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - Ответить

  4. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Front Panel Assembly: шаг 4, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - Ответить

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - Ответить

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker - Ответить

    Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.

    Stephen Smith - Ответить

  5. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 5, изображение 1 из 1
    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - Ответить

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - Ответить

    Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

    Disassembly:

    The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

    Reassembly:

    Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

    Friendly Advice - Ответить

    This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.

    Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.

    FixingMyiPhone - Ответить

  6. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 6, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 6, изображение 2 из 2
    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - Ответить

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

  7. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 7, изображение 1 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 7, изображение 2 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 7, изображение 3 из 3
    • Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - Ответить

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - Ответить

    your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…

    if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…

    it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…

    circuitbender 477 - Ответить

    Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Ответить

    Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Ответить

  8. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 8, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 8, изображение 2 из 2
    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel assembly to swing open like a book.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - Ответить

  9. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 9, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - Ответить

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - Ответить

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - Ответить

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - Ответить

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - Ответить

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - Ответить

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - Ответить

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

  10. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 10, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - Ответить

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - Ответить

  11. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 11, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use a clean fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - Ответить

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - Ответить

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - Ответить

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - Ответить

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - Ответить

    The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.

    Jessa Jones - Ответить

  12. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 12, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • Do not attempt to insert longer screws into the red marked screw holes. Doing so may result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - Ответить

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - Ответить

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - Ответить

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - Ответить

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - Ответить

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - Ответить

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - Ответить

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - Ответить

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - Ответить

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - Ответить

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - Ответить

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - Ответить

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - Ответить

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - Ответить

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt - Ответить

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith - Ответить

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson - Ответить

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo - Ответить

  13. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 13, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  14. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 14, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 14, изображение 2 из 2
    • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

    • While still supporting the front panel, use a fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Ответить

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - Ответить

    I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

    Droopy Caledonia - Ответить

    Try starting at one end instead of in the middle. It's to easy to bend a connector and this way, I can get a safe start and go from there.

    Rongwey - Ответить

  15. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 15, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 15, изображение 2 из 2
    • Disconnect the home button cable connector.

  16. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 16, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 16, изображение 2 из 2
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.

    • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - Ответить

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - Ответить

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi - Ответить

    The advice aims at avoiding battery fire. Just be careful.

    Katherine Williams - Ответить

  17. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 17, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 17, изображение 2 из 2
    • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

    • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Ответить

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - Ответить

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - Ответить

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles - Ответить

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - Ответить

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - Ответить

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - Ответить

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - Ответить

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - Ответить

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - Ответить

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - Ответить

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings - Ответить

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard - Ответить

    Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer

    Patrick AZOULAY - Ответить

  18. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 18, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - Ответить

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - Ответить

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - Ответить

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - Ответить

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton - Ответить

  19. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Battery: шаг 19, изображение 1 из 1
    • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

    • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers. Be extra careful when working near the battery; puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.

    Ça été pour moi la partie la plus difficile du démontage de l’iPhone, j’ai cassé les 2 bandes parce que je ne me suis pas bien appliqué pour les décoller avec la pince. Pour m’en sortir,. j’ai tordu la batterie avec les outils de manière à faire apparaître les bandes adhésives pour les enlever sans problème.

    Paul Briffaut - Ответить

    Translation from Google:

    It was for me the most difficult part of the disassembly of the iPhone, I broke the two bands because I did not apply well to take off with the clamp. To get out of it ,. I twisted the battery with the tools so that the adhesive strips appeared to remove them without any problem.

    Ken - Ответить

    Slowly roll the pulled-out adhesive onto itself as you progress, this makes it easier to gauge how much stretch you need to exert on the remaining adhesive, as well as to gain enough grip to hold the adhesive properly. I also nearly tore off the middle one, it’s not due to my rough but because the battery’s black tape (at the area where these adhesive tabs are) caught onto the white adhesive, this must be the reason why most people’s tore off. Mine nearly tore off, so i slow rolled the pulled-out adhesive to catch back the adhesive, and then it’s roll and pull as per normal. With that I took equal precaution for the last one on the left, and it also was caught by the black tape, but since i know it this time, i slowly pulled it free of the black tape first before continuing the roll snd pull. 100% works. Trust me. My battery is slightly warm as i deliberately let it run for a while before i started the disassembly. I doubt it contributes much to the removal but no harm.

    darrcc - Ответить

    It's easier if you grasp the full width of the adhesive strip, straight across it, before starting to pull. That way the force is applied gently and evenly to the whole strip. I used watchmaker's forceps because they precisely pull up the adhesive tab, and easily squeeze the whole width of the strip—since it's critical to apply the pulling force evenly across the strip. Tug gently and twist the forceps to take up the slack, pulling just a few millimeters at a time. I learned this the hard way. My center strip snapped pretty quick because I didn't have a good, even grasp of it.

    For heat, I put a cup of raw white rice in a clean sock, knotted the open end, and microwaved it for 2 minutes. When it was cool enough to handle, I flattened it on the table and lay the phone upon it. That gave off enough gentle steady heat that I could pry up the battery without much bending, locate the adhesive end, and successfully wind it up with the forceps. I think I would use the hot rice-bed from the start next time. —Kw

    Katherine Williams - Ответить

  20. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 20, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 20, изображение 2 из 2
    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Very slowly, pull and stretch one adhesive strip away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Allow the strip to stretch out before pulling any harder. If you can't feel it stretching, ease up, or it will break.

    • Pull at as low of an angle as you can without snagging the adhesive strip on any of the components along the lower edge of the phone.

    • Don't press down on the battery as you pull the strip.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling slowly until it releases and slips out from underneath the battery.

    • If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

    I found this much easier than when I did it on a 5S. Not sure if the adhesive strips are different, but I also left the phone on a radiator for a few minutes to help warm the glue. All three then pulled straight out of the phone in one go.

    James - Ответить

    I set my phone on a microfiber cloth on a plate that I had warmed (warm to the touch and that I could hold with my bare hands) in the microwave prior to this step. All 3 strips came off from the bottom and without any trouble.

    armitagd - Ответить

    Excellent tip, thanks.

    vanshdx10 - Ответить

    absolutely impossible unless you heat it. Thank You armitagd, that did the trick.

    chris - Ответить

    All three of mine tore off immediately, I had warmed the phone up too. A bit of a struggle with the tweezers and card method, the battery bent and leaked. Came out okay.

    John Blanchard - Ответить

    I recommend preheating the case before trying to remove each adhesive tape. Also, try wrapping the tape around a pencil as you pull and stretch the tape. I think that such gives a more even pull across the tape than by using one’s fingers.

    GPZ - Ответить

    I even didn’t find an adhesive in my phone, I had to use hairdryer to heat the battery, then remove it gently using the blue plastic and couple of plastic cards

    Mohammed Jitarayah - Ответить

    I can’t stress enough how important it is to preheat the case as others have mentioned. GPZ’s recommendation using a pencil is also pure gold - get enough initial purchase on the adhesive strip so that you can pull it taut and then place your pencil. From there, roll and tag alternately, keeping tension on it so that the adhesive doesn’t wrinkle in the process of removal.

    Jesse Espe - Ответить

    Heating probably works but I slowly pulled out an inch or so and then started rolling it onto my screwdriver. Then I slowly rolled the screwdriver which gave me a good grip and I could go slowly. Took more than 5 min but it got easier and easier. Believe me, getting the battery out using the alternative is very hard, and dangerously easy to penetrate the battery and start a small flame thrower (voice of experience).

    Thomas Hayes - Ответить

  21. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 21, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 21, изображение 2 из 2
    • Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the other side of the battery.

    • Again, pull and slowly stretch the adhesive tab to slide it out from between the battery and the rear case.

    • Continue pulling the adhesive tab until it releases completely from the battery. If it breaks, try to retrieve the remaining length and continue pulling, or proceed as instructed below.

    This strip broke almost immediately with the first pull. I changed the battery on two iPhone 6 Plus’s. Impossible for me to retrieve broken ends. I moved on to the middle strip with no issue. I then used the blue opening tool to pry the battery up along the lower right edge of the battery (BE CAREFUL!). Once the battery is leveraged up enough to put the tip of the tweezers on the broken strip, grab a piece of the strip and pull it to a point where the removal process can continue as prescribed.

    whiteshephard - Ответить

    Pulling the strip around the corner did not work for me - it broke. I then pulled the middle strip straight out with no issues and the remaining left strip also straight without no problem. I don’t recommend pulling the side strips around the corner of the battery

    Swenja - Ответить

  22. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 22, изображение 1 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 22, изображение 2 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 22, изображение 3 из 3
    • Peel back the final battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. Gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.

    • Place one hand over the battery as the final strip comes out, or it may fling the battery out of the iPhone.

    • Continue pulling until the final strip comes free from the iPhone.

    • If you removed all three adhesive strips successfully, continue to step 24. Otherwise, if the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).

    • Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • Do not pry against the logic board, or you may permanently damage your iPhone. Do not pry under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you may damage the audio controls cable, which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the battery.

    • For alternative methods to unstick the battery, continue with the next step below.

    I don’t know why the instructions didn’t mention this, but I pulled it to the left and back, like the previous strip, rather than straight back, to avoid snapping.

    domarius - Ответить

    Pull the adhesive strips at a 45° angle up away from the back or the strip will catch on the bottom board and will tear and break. If it starts to tear, , see if you can grab a spot after the ear and keep pulling. These things are super thin and fragile. Go sloooow when you pull the strips. You are going to pull them a long way, so be patient.

    Ok, so you broke one. Or two. Or all three. Forget the alcohol. Lay your phone face down on a towel and heat it with a hair dryer for two minutes. Flip it over carefully as it will be hot. Insert a plastic spudger under the bottom edge and carefully push/slide it under the battery toward to top of the phone along the strip(s) that are still stuck. DO NOT PRY. You may have to heat it again if it gets hard to push. BE CAREFUL. The battery will bend a bit, but don’t bend it excessively or poke it as it can catch fire when exposed to air. Eventually the battery will pop free. Remove the stuck adhesive and wipe it a bit with alcohol and let it dry.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Ответить

  23. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case: шаг 23, изображение 1 из 1
    • If the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

    • Then, use a plastic opening tool to gently lift the battery.

    • Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

    • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string underneath one end of the battery and pull side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

    Hat leider alles nicht geklappt! Musste mit einer Karte und einer Seite sehr lange fummeln und da sich die Folie vom Akku zu sehr mit dem gehäuse verbunden hat. Dadurch hat sie sich gelöst und durch das erwärmen leider auch nicht wirklich besser.

    Jess Sass - Ответить

    Translation from Google:

    Unfortunately, everything did not work out! Had to fumble with a card and a page for a long time and because the film from the battery has too much connected to the housing. As a result, she has solved and by warming unfortunately not really better.

    Ken -

    This step was very difficult as the adhesive strips snapped on me and I had to use a card to make the strips come out by siding the plastic card on the strips as thought I was trying to cut a very thin slice of cheese. (NOTE: DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL when attempting this method) I actually tried using a metal spudger while trying to remove the adhesive strips and punctured the old battery slightly enough to cause smoke.

    Bryan - Ответить

    iBreak-it: caught the wifi antenna connector when using a guitar string to work the extremely stubborn battery adhesive strips off. Now I need a new wifi antenna. What next?

    Dale Williams - Ответить

    Lay your phone face down on a towel and heat it with a hair dryer for two minutes. Flip it over carefully as it will be hot. Insert a plastic spudger under the bottom edge and carefully push/slide it under the battery toward to top of the phone along the strip(s) that are still stuck. DO NOT PRY. You may have to heat it again if it gets hard to push. BE CAREFUL. The battery will bend a bit, but don’t bend it excessively or poke it as it can catch fire when exposed to air. Eventually the battery will pop free. Remove the stuck adhesive and wipe it a bit with alcohol and let it dry.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Ответить

  24. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 24, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    Once again, ifixit comes through! I bought the battery and the repair kit and the new battery installed and charging. My only hitch was that the three adhesive strips all broke when I pulled on them. I had to heat the bottom of the phone to separate the battery. It was a small moment of panic, but it just required a bit more patience. Thanks for all you do!

    jamesg - Ответить

    Awesome procedure! Thanks. iPhone 6plus working great. Make sure you have quality tools. Thanks again.

    Leo Lambert - Ответить

    Everything went well enough but, I replaced the battery last month and after a while the phone started going into an on-off cycle. It only happens intermittently. At first it would do it only once and stop. Now it does it, still intermittently, but when it happens it keeps cycling on and off. It even does it when it’s charging. If I let it sit, while charging, after several hours it stops doing it again.

    Larry Ingerling - Ответить

    The battery kit didn’t come with adhesives. It seems that I’m not the only one to mention it .

    Nat Turner - Ответить

    Hi there! The battery kit does come with replacement adhesive along with all the tools needed to complete the repair. The part-only battery does not include adhesive, it needs to be purchased separately!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Almost blew up the battery with alot of holes, im traumatized. In the end i did by force and trew it 10 meters away while i were outside.

    Milan - Ответить

    i turned on my phone and the screen is all stripes :(

    Emily M. Curran - Ответить

    Sounds like either the display cable isn't properly connected or it’s been damaged. If all else fails, send it to a professional.

    Rongwey -

    The Ifixit battery comes with new adhesive strips already attached to the battery. Suggest that it’s best to leave the protective acetate over the strips until AFTER the new battery is re-connected and the connector cover is reinstalled (2 screws). Then its easy to remove the acetate cover from the adhesive strips and locate the battery.

    If the battery is stuck in (with the adhesive strips BEFORE the connector is correctly installed it is impossible to adjust the position of the battery to align the connector.

    Dana Smith - Ответить

    My screen doesn’t even show up anything when charging but it makes the sound thought.

    Osvaldo G - Ответить

  25. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Rear Facing Camera: шаг 25, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw

    need to remove the screws third one that's underneath the 2.3

    sirgednosiam - Ответить

  26. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 26, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift and remove the rear-facing camera bracket out of the iPhone.

  27. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 27, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

  28. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 28, изображение 1 из 1
    • Carefully lift and remove the rear-facing camera out of the iPhone.

  29. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Antenna Assembly: шаг 29, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the antenna bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw

  30. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 30, изображение 1 из 1
    • Grasp the antenna bracket with a pair of tweezers and lift it off the iPhone.

  31. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 31, изображение 1 из 1
    • Carefully pry the antenna connector up off the logic board with a plastic opening tool.

  32. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 32, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 32, изображение 2 из 2
    • Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and gently lift it from its retaining clip on the logic board.

  33. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 33, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 33, изображение 2 из 2
    • The two connectors may be coupled by a single adhesive tab. If this is the case, then they may detach as a pair.

    • Disconnect the power button cable and audio control cable connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board.

  34. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 34, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the top cellular antenna to the rear case:

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

  35. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 35, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 35, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the top cellular antenna out of the iPhone.

    • During reassembly, make sure to place the small washer in the top left corner of the antenna assembly.

  36. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Vibrator: шаг 36, изображение 1 из 1
    • Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger.

  37. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 37, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 37, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect antenna cable from its socket on the logic board.

  38. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 38, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 38, изображение 2 из 2
    • Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully deroute it from its channel on the speaker assembly.

  39. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 39, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.

  40. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 40, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift and remove the vibrator out of the iPhone.

  41. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, SIM Card: шаг 41, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, SIM Card: шаг 41, изображение 2 из 2
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

  42. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 42, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  43. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: шаг 43, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the plastic clip to the logic board.

  44. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 44, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw recessed against the top of the rear case.

  45. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 45, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use a pair of tweezers to firmly grasp the plastic clip and remove it from the iPhone.

  46. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 46, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the antenna clip to the rear case.

  47. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 47, изображение 1 из 1
    • Carefully grasp the antenna clip with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.

  48. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Logic Board: шаг 48, изображение 1 из 1
    Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Купить
    • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 2.4 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

  49. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 49, изображение 1 из 1
    • Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.

  50. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 50, изображение 1 из 1
    • Do not remove the logic board. At this point it is still tethered to the rear case via an antenna connector.

    • Continue carefully lifting the bottom side of the logic board until it is vertical.

  51. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 51, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 51, изображение 2 из 2
    • Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna connector from its socket on the back of the logic board.

    An extra step needs to be added. the 1.3 millimeter Phillips head #00 screw retaining the antenna to the frame needs to be removed and then the antenna removed.

    Josh Ginsberg - Ответить

  52. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 52, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift and remove the logic board out of the iPhone.

  53. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Power Button Cable: шаг 53, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Power Button Cable: шаг 53, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the single adhesive tab that resides on top of both the power button and audio control/rocker switch cable connectors.

  54. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 54, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button cable bracket to the rear case.

  55. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 55, изображение 1 из 1
    • Carefully grasp the bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.

  56. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 56, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the power button cable bracket to the inner edge of the rear case:

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw

  57. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 57, изображение 1 из 1
    • Grasp the power button cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.

  58. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 58, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button switch to the rear case.

  59. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 59, изображение 1 из 1
    • Pull the power button switch out of its recess on the rear case with a pair of tweezers, and begin carefully peeling the power button cable from the rear case.

  60. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 60, изображение 1 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 60, изображение 2 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 60, изображение 3 из 3
    • Continue gently peeling the power button cable off the rear case and remove it from the iPhone.

  61. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Audio Control and Rocker Switch Cable: шаг 61, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the audio controls and rocker switch to the rear case:

    • Two 2.0 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw

  62. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 62, изображение 1 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 62, изображение 2 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 62, изображение 3 из 3
    • Grasp the audio control and rocker switch cable with a pair of tweezers.

    • Slowly peel the audio control and rocker switch cable up off the rear case.

    • Peel with care. The cable is secured to the rear case with mild adhesive.

  63. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Audio Control and Rocker Switch Buttons: шаг 63, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Audio Control and Rocker Switch Buttons: шаг 63, изображение 2 из 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the audio control and rocker switch buttons out of their recess on the rear case.

  64. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 64, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 64, изображение 2 из 2
    • Gently grasp both top and bottom audio control buttons with a pair of tweezers and remove them from the iPhone.

  65. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Speaker: шаг 65, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Speaker: шаг 65, изображение 2 из 2
    • Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker.

  66. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 66, изображение 1 из 1
    • To fully de-route the antenna connector, you may need to gently pull back the metal clip securing it to the speaker assembly.

  67. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 67, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw

  68. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 68, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift and remove the speaker out of the iPhone.

  69. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Lightning Connector Assembly: шаг 69, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the metal bracket to the Lightning connector assembly.

  70. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 70, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the metal bracket out of the iPhone.

  71. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 71, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the antenna connector cable up off its socket on the Lightning connector assembly.

  72. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 72, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift and remove the antenna connector out of the iPhone.

  73. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 73, изображение 1 из 1
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:

    • Two 3.2 mm screws

    • One 3.8 mm screw

    • Two 1.7 mm screws

    • Two 1.5 mm screws

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

  74. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 74, изображение 1 из 1
    • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the plastic clip that is situated to the right of the headphone jack and remove it from the iPhone.

  75. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack Cable: шаг 75, изображение 1 из 1
    • The next step requires peeling up the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable that is affixed to the inside of the rear case with mild adhesive. We highly recommend using an iOpener on the lower backside of the rear case to soften the adhesive.

  76. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 76, изображение 1 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 76, изображение 2 из 3 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 76, изображение 3 из 3
    • Use an opening pick to slowly separate the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable from the rear case.

    • Carefully work the pick down the right side of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable, making sure to stop right as you hit the bottom.

  77. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 77, изображение 1 из 1
    • Insert the pick underneath the right bottom corner of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable.

  78. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 78, изображение 1 из 2 iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 78, изображение 2 из 2
    • Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

  79. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement: шаг 79, изображение 1 из 1
    • Lift and remove the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable assembly out of the iPhone.

  80. iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement, Rear Case: шаг 80, изображение 1 из 1
    • Rear case remains.

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

59 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Jeff Suovanen

Участник с: 08/06/13

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6 Комментариев

what are the 5 metal "spacers" attached to the housing? they are simplistic metal spacing bars with a tiny rubber block. all held to the left side and right side walls with 2 screws per spacer. The instructions totally skipped this step about removing them. all housings i see being sold do not include them, so wouldnt you want to move them over too?

quysu714 - Ответить

they probably don't add it because its pretty self explanatory.

Chris Gourlay -

step 84, When you have finished tearing it all down, there are a couple of things you missed, the rubber piece that is connected to the case near the speaker and the charging port housing when you remove the board at the bottom.

jamielee2k - Ответить

In addition to the metal "spacers," the screen for the speaker and the charging port housing, don't forget to transfer a few other things that weren't mentioned in the guide to your new rear case: the power button, the little metal switch for the sim tray; there's a tiny black speaker screen near the headphone jack that must be transferred over (might want to clean it off if it has collected dust); in the top left corner there are two more screws to loosen: one is for a tiny metal spacer piece and the other for the antennae connector cable; there is also a little metal square that cushions the antenna connector's socket; a small strip where the earpiece speaker would be that looks like a black rolled piece of tape; and finally, the foam cushion for the rear camera and the little black screen next to it. But yea... pretty self explanatory.

ikennaugwuh - Ответить

Hi all,

During the instructions, the screws flip from having #00 next to them and then nothing.

Does this mean that these screws are different? If so, how do you differentiate them? I have a replacement set of screws that are unsorted so hoping to sort them with my digital caliper.

All the best

Mike

dixonmichael1989 - Ответить

Phillips #00 is the driver size, so unfortunately it’s not much help for sorting the screws. Check each screw length with a digital caliper and compare against the guide. When you find a good candidate, carefully thread it into place and don’t force it. If it doesn’t feel right, back off and try a different screw. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

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